mskibbz-T

I was getting tuned and my boost control setup stopped working on the first street run, despite working for 21 dyno runs. 2 BAR in 2nd gear owned my engine... Blame is still to be determined, there are a couple possibilities

On another note, I need to get a new engine for my LS turbo daily driver. I'd like to hit 275whp on the new block and have it be reliable. I can buy a used longblock or build my blown engine, a used longblock would be under half the price and would probably be more reliable. I feel like it would be an utter waste to just spend all the cash to swap another OEM block in though, since I have been saving for a built block for awhile now(1/2 way there). I am willing to take on some credit if it is a hands down better route, what are your thoughts and opinions on built engines in daily drivers? $975 labor to just swap longblocks + cost of a built or oem block



Modified by mskibbz-T at 1:58 PM 10/25/2003

ghettocrxsi

975 labor to swap motors? Holy crap.. Where in washington are you?

It would be your best bet to just build you blown motor with rods,pistons and sleeves. Then to buy a stock oem block and then have it blow again.

SuicideSlide

Wow... 975 for just labor on a long block install..going rate out here in las vegas is between 4 and 600 for labor on a complete swap... sounds steep to me... find a credited honda-tech member in your area and see if he can help you out for a little less...

mskibbz-T

My car is chilling at HorsepowerFreaks down in Portland because it blew up while I was getting tuned, prices in the Seattle area are considerably less.

B94Cast

Why not just take your time, do the swap yourself, put that $975 worth of money towards parts... and learn a whole gob, and get some great tools while you are at it?

I have done most of my own work... broke some parts on the way, but it has been an invaluable learning experience..

But on to your question - I would say build it. Once you are this far, put the better stuff in there, and have peace of mind that you are solid down low.

Just my 2 cents anyways -

Tofurky

whoa. Too bad your not in so cal. I'd do it for 1/4th that, and teach you along the way.

mskibbz-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tofurky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whoa. Too bad your not in so cal. I'd do it for 1/4th that, and teach you along the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would have been sweet

mskibbz-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B94Cast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just take your time, do the swap yourself, put that $975 worth of money towards parts... and learn a whole gob, and get some great tools while you are at it?

I have done most of my own work... broke some parts on the way, but it has been an invaluable learning experience..

But on to your question - I would say build it. Once you are this far, put the better stuff in there, and have peace of mind that you are solid down low.

Just my 2 cents anyways - </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear what you are saying, but circumstances will not make it possible unfortunately. I do all the work on my car now, except for tuning, so I know it would be doable, its just not worth it in an economical sense for me at this point in time(college, my growing business, etc..). I'm leaning towards building a nice Benson sleeved block

FULL-RACE EP3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B94Cast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just take your time, do the swap yourself, put that $975 worth of money towards parts... and learn a whole gob, and get some great tools while you are at it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

WORD

TeStUdO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tofurky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whoa. Too bad your not in so cal. I'd do it for 1/4th that, and teach you along the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>


what a nice guy you are

PureTeg420

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mskibbz-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My car is chilling at HorsepowerFreaks down in Portland because it blew up while I was getting tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope your boost control wasn't compromised because of one of the horsepower freaks guys. I know a couple of them personally, and they definatly know their ****.

Short Round

2 bar u nutzzzz

&lt;-- 90,000 miles (+/- 1K miles) 300 whp, 270 tq since march

if the head's ok, just find an LS shorty...and for 975, u can buy me a plane ticket, ship my tools (both round trip) and have me do it for 1/2 the price lol


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B94Cast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not just take your time, do the swap yourself, put that $975 worth of money towards parts... and learn a whole gob, and get some great tools while you are at it?

I have done most of my own work... broke some parts on the way, but it has been an invaluable learning experience..

But on to your question - I would say build it. Once you are this far, put the better stuff in there, and have peace of mind that you are solid down low.

Just my 2 cents anyways - </TD></TR></TABLE>


^^^ i agree 100000%

mskibbz-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PureTeg420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope your boost control wasn't compromised because of one of the horsepower freaks guys. I know a couple of them personally, and they definatly know their ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sean diagnosed it as my PW1 output failed in my AEM EMS, which I was using to signal my GM solenoid. I am going to call AEM on Monday to see what they think of the situation and how to proceed. I'm not pointing fingers at anyone. You're right, they really do know their ****.