2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2!
02-20-2004, 02:19 AM
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2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2!
Alright, I finally got a chance to work on my engine tonight. I had to get a new ring compressor and a few other misc. things. In part 1 I measured clearances, assembled rods/pistons, and installed rings.
You can go to this link to view part 1
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=765604
Now part 2 is basically the completion of the bottom end assembly.
I first started by installing the oil sqirters. I marked each bolt with a marker where the hole was located at. I line the mark inline with the squirter. When installing the squirters I put a lil thread locker on each bolt. The installation is pretty straight forward. Some people just plug the hole and do not use the oil squirters. I chose to use them since I have them. Why not, they are there.
Image of the threadlocker and silicone I will be using for the bottom end.
Image of the squirters. As you can see each bolt has a little hole which I line up with the squirter. I use a marker and mark the top of the bolt so I know where the hole is located.
Image of the squirters installed. As you can see the mark I made on top of the bolt is inline with the squirter. BUT you do not have to do this, you can just torque them down to what your manual says. Since it is a banjo fitting. I just did this with my motor, don't ask why.
Once I installed the squirters I turned the motor over and installed the pistons. I chose to do that first while the crank was out so there was no chance of the rod hitting the crank journal. Before I installed the pistons I took some oil and oiled each cylinder. I also oiled the top edge of each cylinder. Oiling the top edge helps the rings slide into the cylinder much easier. Once the cylinders were oiled I did the same thing to the inside of my ring compressor. I got my sheet that Robert from Rocket Motorsports provided me which showed me the ring positions. I positioned the rings properly and put the piston into my ring compressor. I tightened the ring compressor down and set the piston into the cylinder. With the piston in place I took a rag and pressed the piston into the cylinder. Some people like to use a rubber mallet, but I was able to just push the piston in by using the force of my hand. I installed all 4 pistons and double checked everything before moving on.
Image of the ring position sheet.
Image of piston with ring position set. This piston is now ready to go into the ring compressor. Make sure when tightening the ring compressor around the piston that your ring position is not compromised.
Image of piston being installed and piston in ring compressor. I bought this ring compressor for 10 bux. They are pretty inexpensive and is a great tool to have. Make sure the ring compressor sits flush with the top of the cylinder so the rings can't pop out and get underneath the compressor. Also I only put the compressor over half of the piston. The other half I use as a guide and slide into the clylinder. Also make sure you have the valve reliefs on the right side. Usually the exhaust side valve reliefs are smaller than the intake side.
Image of pistons now installed.
After I installed the pistons/rods into the cylinders I turned the motor over and installed the bearings. I cleaned everything with brake clean-bearings, journals, etc..Once everything was clean I installed the rod bearings and main bearings. With the bearings installed I grabbed my assembly lube and applied it to each bearing. Next I installed the thrush washers. This usually sux *** because they like to fall out of place, but I was lucky and they stayed in place. Since they were staying in place I got the crank and laid it into position. To hold the crank I took number 1 and 5 main cap and bolted it down.
Image of cleaned and installed bearings.
Image of thrust washers installed. Make sure the flat part of each washer is against the block. You want the slots facing out. If you are having a hard time keep the thrust washers in place I suggest puttin 1 drop of super blue behind each thrust washer. This will help hold them in place. The super glue will just break down when the engine heats up.
Image of assembly lube I use and the application of the assembly lube on the bearings. You can use 30wt oil as assembly lube if you plan on starting the engine within the next couple of days. I chose not to use 30wt for this build due to the fact the motor will be sittin for a week or so.
Image of the crank in place. As you can see main caps 1 and 5 have been installed. The bolts were tightened snug. I torque them down once I get the other 3 main caps installed.
The bearings and the crank are now installed. With that out of the way I started attaching each rod to it's corresponding crank journal. I marked each rod cap with a cylinder number so I knew which one it belonged to. I matched the bearing notch on the rod cap with the notch on the rod itself. This let me know which way the rod cap went. I installed all 4 rod caps and torqued down the ARP rod bolts to 48ft lbs. I had to rotate the crank a few times so I could access the rod bolts. I torqued the rod bolts 2 times. This was recommended by the rod manufacturer. So I followed there instructions and also torqued them down using ARP Moly Lube.
The bottom end was bascailly done. All I had to do was install the last 3 main caps which were attached to the girdle. Once I got the last 3 main caps on, I torqued the caps in sequence. I installed the 3 middle caps now because if I did it earlier they would be in the way of my rod bolts. I would not be able to install the rods with the 2/3/4 main caps installed.
Here are the torque specs for GSR/ITR
1/5 56ft lbs.
2/3/4 49ft lbs.
With the bottom end assembly done I moved on to installing the oil pump, water pump, and rear main seal housing. This is where surface preperation is key. I took some brake clean and cleaned all the mouting surfaces. In some areas I had to use a blade to scrape off some extra silicone. The great thing about honda's is that they do not use any paper based gaskets which can be a pain in the *** to remove from the block surface. Usually they use hondabond or a rubber gasket which makes cleaning the block surface very easy. With the block surface and pieces prepped I then applied a thin layer of silicone to each piece. The oil pump was bolted on first, followed by the rear main seal housing and then the water pump. I applied blue thread lock onto each bolt. This is just a precaution I like to do so none of the bolts will come loose.
Image of prepped surface. This is how clean you want the surface of the block to be.
Image of the rear main seal housing with thin layer of silicone applied. I put just a slight amount of oil on both the rear main seal and oil seal. This helps the seals slide over the crank easily. If you are reusing the seals make sure to inspect them for cracks. Also make sure they are not stiff and brittle. If you are installing new seals, make sure the outter area sliding into the housing is DRY!!! You can put a lil oil in the inner diameter of the seals, but not on the outside diameter. If you put oil on the outside diameter this can cause the seal to pop out. CAN WE SAY HUGE OIL LEAK! Another thing you need to keep in mind...when installing the oil pump there is a little rotating piece that needs to be lined up with the crank. If this is not lined up with the crank the oil pump will not slide on. I will have to take a picture of it and show you guys. It's hard for me to explain.
I am now closer to getting the bottom end completed. With all that out of the way I installed the tensioner. I replaced the tensioner bolt with a new one and also applied anti-seize to the bolt. Next I installed my oil filter, and then moved on to replacing the rear water pipe seals. I replaced both of them and before I slid the pipe back into place I put some soap and water on each seal. The soap and water acts as a lubricant so that both seals slide in easily.
Image of new tensioner bolt and anti-seize I used. The reason why I use anti-seize is because for some reason the tensioner bolt always gets stripped and froze. Not sure why that is, but it has happened to me multiple times. This helps that from happening.
Image of seals that were replaced.
I am basically done with the majority of the bottom end. I still need to install the crank pulley, oil pickup, windage tray, oil pan, timing belt, lower cover, etc, but I will do that when I get the head installed. All that will have to wait till I have time to install the head.
There was 1 last thing I wanted to do and that was install the head studs. I turned the motor over and chased each head stud hole with a M11x1.5 tap. I chased it till the tap was all the way to the bottom. With all the holes chased I turned the motor over again and sprayed out each hole with brake clean and let it drip dry. After the holes dried out I turned the engine back over. I then started to clean each ARP head stud with brake clean and put ARP Moly Lube on the threads. I hand tightened each head stud hand. I got them pretty snug just using my hand so I didn't need to torque them down. Chasing the threads all the way down helped all the ARP headstuds thread all the way and made sure they were all even.
Image of the tool I put together so the tap would reach all the way down the block. I know it's kinda cheesy, but it works!
Image of the cleaned head stud and ARP Moly Lube.
Image of engine stand I bought from Autozone for 49.99. Worked out perfectly. I also like the color.
Image of what was completed above.
Summary:
Installed-
Piston/Rods into Cylinder
Water Pump
Oil Pump
Rear Main Seal Housing
Bearings
Main Caps
ARP Headstuds
Crank
Replaced water pipe o-rings
Attached rods to crank
I am gettin closer to completing this motor. I will install the head hopefully by early next week. I'd do a part 3, but dang this takes a lot of time lol. I'm also running out of batteries for my digital camera. I hope some of this information will be useful for you guys. This is by no means a instruction sheet. Just some advice and notes. I can't wait to dyno this! Peace!
Modified by BodyKits NW at 4:59 PM 2/20/2004
Modified by BodyKits NW at 11:19 AM 7/18/2007
You can go to this link to view part 1
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=765604
Now part 2 is basically the completion of the bottom end assembly.
I first started by installing the oil sqirters. I marked each bolt with a marker where the hole was located at. I line the mark inline with the squirter. When installing the squirters I put a lil thread locker on each bolt. The installation is pretty straight forward. Some people just plug the hole and do not use the oil squirters. I chose to use them since I have them. Why not, they are there.
Image of the threadlocker and silicone I will be using for the bottom end.
Image of the squirters. As you can see each bolt has a little hole which I line up with the squirter. I use a marker and mark the top of the bolt so I know where the hole is located.
Image of the squirters installed. As you can see the mark I made on top of the bolt is inline with the squirter. BUT you do not have to do this, you can just torque them down to what your manual says. Since it is a banjo fitting. I just did this with my motor, don't ask why.
Once I installed the squirters I turned the motor over and installed the pistons. I chose to do that first while the crank was out so there was no chance of the rod hitting the crank journal. Before I installed the pistons I took some oil and oiled each cylinder. I also oiled the top edge of each cylinder. Oiling the top edge helps the rings slide into the cylinder much easier. Once the cylinders were oiled I did the same thing to the inside of my ring compressor. I got my sheet that Robert from Rocket Motorsports provided me which showed me the ring positions. I positioned the rings properly and put the piston into my ring compressor. I tightened the ring compressor down and set the piston into the cylinder. With the piston in place I took a rag and pressed the piston into the cylinder. Some people like to use a rubber mallet, but I was able to just push the piston in by using the force of my hand. I installed all 4 pistons and double checked everything before moving on.
Image of the ring position sheet.
Image of piston with ring position set. This piston is now ready to go into the ring compressor. Make sure when tightening the ring compressor around the piston that your ring position is not compromised.
Image of piston being installed and piston in ring compressor. I bought this ring compressor for 10 bux. They are pretty inexpensive and is a great tool to have. Make sure the ring compressor sits flush with the top of the cylinder so the rings can't pop out and get underneath the compressor. Also I only put the compressor over half of the piston. The other half I use as a guide and slide into the clylinder. Also make sure you have the valve reliefs on the right side. Usually the exhaust side valve reliefs are smaller than the intake side.
Image of pistons now installed.
After I installed the pistons/rods into the cylinders I turned the motor over and installed the bearings. I cleaned everything with brake clean-bearings, journals, etc..Once everything was clean I installed the rod bearings and main bearings. With the bearings installed I grabbed my assembly lube and applied it to each bearing. Next I installed the thrush washers. This usually sux *** because they like to fall out of place, but I was lucky and they stayed in place. Since they were staying in place I got the crank and laid it into position. To hold the crank I took number 1 and 5 main cap and bolted it down.
Image of cleaned and installed bearings.
Image of thrust washers installed. Make sure the flat part of each washer is against the block. You want the slots facing out. If you are having a hard time keep the thrust washers in place I suggest puttin 1 drop of super blue behind each thrust washer. This will help hold them in place. The super glue will just break down when the engine heats up.
Image of assembly lube I use and the application of the assembly lube on the bearings. You can use 30wt oil as assembly lube if you plan on starting the engine within the next couple of days. I chose not to use 30wt for this build due to the fact the motor will be sittin for a week or so.
Image of the crank in place. As you can see main caps 1 and 5 have been installed. The bolts were tightened snug. I torque them down once I get the other 3 main caps installed.
The bearings and the crank are now installed. With that out of the way I started attaching each rod to it's corresponding crank journal. I marked each rod cap with a cylinder number so I knew which one it belonged to. I matched the bearing notch on the rod cap with the notch on the rod itself. This let me know which way the rod cap went. I installed all 4 rod caps and torqued down the ARP rod bolts to 48ft lbs. I had to rotate the crank a few times so I could access the rod bolts. I torqued the rod bolts 2 times. This was recommended by the rod manufacturer. So I followed there instructions and also torqued them down using ARP Moly Lube.
The bottom end was bascailly done. All I had to do was install the last 3 main caps which were attached to the girdle. Once I got the last 3 main caps on, I torqued the caps in sequence. I installed the 3 middle caps now because if I did it earlier they would be in the way of my rod bolts. I would not be able to install the rods with the 2/3/4 main caps installed.
Here are the torque specs for GSR/ITR
1/5 56ft lbs.
2/3/4 49ft lbs.
With the bottom end assembly done I moved on to installing the oil pump, water pump, and rear main seal housing. This is where surface preperation is key. I took some brake clean and cleaned all the mouting surfaces. In some areas I had to use a blade to scrape off some extra silicone. The great thing about honda's is that they do not use any paper based gaskets which can be a pain in the *** to remove from the block surface. Usually they use hondabond or a rubber gasket which makes cleaning the block surface very easy. With the block surface and pieces prepped I then applied a thin layer of silicone to each piece. The oil pump was bolted on first, followed by the rear main seal housing and then the water pump. I applied blue thread lock onto each bolt. This is just a precaution I like to do so none of the bolts will come loose.
Image of prepped surface. This is how clean you want the surface of the block to be.
Image of the rear main seal housing with thin layer of silicone applied. I put just a slight amount of oil on both the rear main seal and oil seal. This helps the seals slide over the crank easily. If you are reusing the seals make sure to inspect them for cracks. Also make sure they are not stiff and brittle. If you are installing new seals, make sure the outter area sliding into the housing is DRY!!! You can put a lil oil in the inner diameter of the seals, but not on the outside diameter. If you put oil on the outside diameter this can cause the seal to pop out. CAN WE SAY HUGE OIL LEAK! Another thing you need to keep in mind...when installing the oil pump there is a little rotating piece that needs to be lined up with the crank. If this is not lined up with the crank the oil pump will not slide on. I will have to take a picture of it and show you guys. It's hard for me to explain.
I am now closer to getting the bottom end completed. With all that out of the way I installed the tensioner. I replaced the tensioner bolt with a new one and also applied anti-seize to the bolt. Next I installed my oil filter, and then moved on to replacing the rear water pipe seals. I replaced both of them and before I slid the pipe back into place I put some soap and water on each seal. The soap and water acts as a lubricant so that both seals slide in easily.
Image of new tensioner bolt and anti-seize I used. The reason why I use anti-seize is because for some reason the tensioner bolt always gets stripped and froze. Not sure why that is, but it has happened to me multiple times. This helps that from happening.
Image of seals that were replaced.
I am basically done with the majority of the bottom end. I still need to install the crank pulley, oil pickup, windage tray, oil pan, timing belt, lower cover, etc, but I will do that when I get the head installed. All that will have to wait till I have time to install the head.
There was 1 last thing I wanted to do and that was install the head studs. I turned the motor over and chased each head stud hole with a M11x1.5 tap. I chased it till the tap was all the way to the bottom. With all the holes chased I turned the motor over again and sprayed out each hole with brake clean and let it drip dry. After the holes dried out I turned the engine back over. I then started to clean each ARP head stud with brake clean and put ARP Moly Lube on the threads. I hand tightened each head stud hand. I got them pretty snug just using my hand so I didn't need to torque them down. Chasing the threads all the way down helped all the ARP headstuds thread all the way and made sure they were all even.
Image of the tool I put together so the tap would reach all the way down the block. I know it's kinda cheesy, but it works!
Image of the cleaned head stud and ARP Moly Lube.
Image of engine stand I bought from Autozone for 49.99. Worked out perfectly. I also like the color.
Image of what was completed above.
Summary:
Installed-
Piston/Rods into Cylinder
Water Pump
Oil Pump
Rear Main Seal Housing
Bearings
Main Caps
ARP Headstuds
Crank
Replaced water pipe o-rings
Attached rods to crank
I am gettin closer to completing this motor. I will install the head hopefully by early next week. I'd do a part 3, but dang this takes a lot of time lol. I'm also running out of batteries for my digital camera. I hope some of this information will be useful for you guys. This is by no means a instruction sheet. Just some advice and notes. I can't wait to dyno this! Peace!
Modified by BodyKits NW at 4:59 PM 2/20/2004
Modified by BodyKits NW at 11:19 AM 7/18/2007
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02-20-2004, 05:52 AM
#8
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (RAWB)
when i installed my oil squirters back into my block i didnt make the markings like you did on the bolts to line up the little holes.. i just bolted up my oil squrters.. the manual helms and haynes didnt say that you had to at least i couldnt find that anywhere... is this going to cause a problem? reason i ask is because if you think about it this is a similar sutuation to brake caliper bolts and fuel filter bolts where they have the little hole to and you dont have to line them up.. any advice?
02-20-2004, 09:29 AM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (ninesecteg)
Almost done, when should it be back in the car Andy? How did you get all 4 pistons so close to top dead in the eigth pic down, j/k haha... Looking good 
Modified by Kataku2K3 at 7:54 PM 2/20/2004
Modified by Kataku2K3 at 7:54 PM 2/20/2004
02-20-2004, 11:16 AM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (HXMan)
"Kataku2K3" I'm just that good lol haha j/k. I won't have the motor in for awhile. Someone jacked my intercooler, wheels and my CTR headlights so I need to save my money and purchase those items again. That's why I started to build blocks for my friends again. I'll stop GZ when it's done bro.
"HXMan" I have the old style ARP headbolts. With the threads chased all the way down it made the head studs screw in very easily. I put them all hand tight. I twiested them down till I could not twist them anymore with my hand. Some people like to torque them down 10-20ft. lbs, but I don't feel it's needed with the threads cleaned and the headstuds reachin the bottom of the hole. It's all a matter of preference.
Thanks for the compliment guys. Just tryin to help out.
Modified by BodyKits NW at 12:45 PM 2/20/2004
"HXMan" I have the old style ARP headbolts. With the threads chased all the way down it made the head studs screw in very easily. I put them all hand tight. I twiested them down till I could not twist them anymore with my hand. Some people like to torque them down 10-20ft. lbs, but I don't feel it's needed with the threads cleaned and the headstuds reachin the bottom of the hole. It's all a matter of preference.
Thanks for the compliment guys. Just tryin to help out.
Modified by BodyKits NW at 12:45 PM 2/20/2004
02-20-2004, 12:24 PM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (BodyKits NW)
did you plastigauge it or not? If not how did you check the clearences? Thanks nice write up!
02-20-2004, 01:11 PM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (BodyKits NW)
Here are the torque specs for GSR/ITR
1/5 49ft lbs.
2/3/4 56ft lbs.
Are these torque specs reversed (thought the lower torque values were for the girdled caps)?
Nice write up.
1/5 49ft lbs.
2/3/4 56ft lbs.
Are these torque specs reversed (thought the lower torque values were for the girdled caps)?
Nice write up.
02-20-2004, 01:14 PM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (aemcivic_02917)
DUDE you are the MAN!! seriously, thanks for shareing, i didnt know all the finer details.
02-20-2004, 01:44 PM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (Jordo)
LOL!!!
You and I are doing the same thing at the same time! I felt like I was reading exactly what I did last weekend.
I'm hoping to get my top end on this weekend as well. Great write up and good luck man.
You and I are doing the same thing at the same time! I felt like I was reading exactly what I did last weekend.
I'm hoping to get my top end on this weekend as well. Great write up and good luck man.
02-20-2004, 03:06 PM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (Redlineracer)
"acy76" Yup, your right. Typed that up wrong. hehe that is what happens at 3:30am. I'll correct that. Thanks for lookin out.
02-20-2004, 03:36 PM
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Re: 2.0 Liter Forced Induction Build Part 2! (koreanwilcox)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koreanwilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice work!
Where did you learn how to do all this??</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe i'm also curious about that
Where did you learn how to do all this??</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe i'm also curious about that