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1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

 
Old 05-07-2019, 08:39 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

I'm using a Competition Clutch (brand) Stage 4 clutch with a sprung disc. They synchros, sleeves, bearings, and seals were all sourced from Synchrotech. The prices I put up are what I paid - some of what I purchased was used and/or I got a deal on. YMMV.

I've been updating the first post of my thread, and no longer have as much detail or pricing there, but it was quoted here and you can see a lot of prices for the nitty gritty stuff. I bought a lot of seals and gasket from Rock Auto, trying to stick to Beck Arnley brand. Some of their gaskets were actually OEM Honda gaskets - in the Honda bag with the Honda part number label on it - sealed inside the Beck Arnley bag, haha. I've had Greg @ Go-Autoworks do the fab work for me (valve cover venting, oil pan modification, fuel filter mount, etc.). I just ship him my stuff, tell him what I want, and he does a great job and mails it back to me.

I have ended up building out my fuel system a little more than I originally planned, and more than is necessary (like the SS braided lines, fuel rail, etc - that's not all 100% necessary). I'm running flex fuel, so unless you're doing that, you'll probably be OK with stock filter, lines, and rail. I'm running a catch can - some say it's overkill. I'd recommend upgrading the FPR, fuel pump, and getting a fuel pressure gauge. I'm using Aeromotive for the FPR and gauge and a Walbro 450 pump - you could do with less pump if you wanted. For cooling I'm using the Go-Autoworks dual core radiator, shroud, and SPAL fan. You can probably get by with a local muffler shop building you a 2.5" or 3" exhaust and use the muffler / resonator of your choice. I'm running a boost, oil pressure, wideband, and ethanol gauge.

Listen to these guys about tuning - it's all about the tune! Make sure you budget for a dyno tuning session - most guys around here charge about $450 ($150/hr).
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:05 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

So lets try this...since you both (DaX/TxDragon) know this build, and/or have built one on your own what would you do differently if you wanted a solid/safe D build?

Here is DaX's actual thread list:

Originally Posted by DaX View Post

Current State
  • Bottom End
    • D16 block with CSS
    • Eagle H-beam rods
    • CP pistons, 9.0:1 compression ratio
    • ACL Race bearings
  • Cylinder Head
    • Z6 head
    • Ferrea 6000 valves and locks
    • Supertech springs, Ti retainers, and seals
    • Comp 59300 cam
    • ARP head studs
    • OEM head gasket
  • Air / Fuel / Engine Management
    • P28 / Hondata S300v3 / BBG
    • Hondata 4 bar MAP sensor
    • ID1000 fuel injectors
    • Walbro 450 fuel pump / Burton-Racing relay harness
    • -6AN engine bay fuel lines (stock lines from tank to bay)
    • Grams 20 micron fuel filter
    • GEM fuel rail
    • Aeromotive 13129 FPR & gauge
    • GM flex fuel sensor
    • PLX wideband
    • Innovate Motorsports ethanol content gauge
    • GEM vacuum manifold
    • Autometer SpekPro boost and oil pressure gauges
    • Go-Autoworks catch can (with charcoal canister and PCV delete)
  • Transmission / Drivetrain
    • S20 EX transmission
    • Competition Clutch Stage 4 (sprung disc)
    • mFactory helical LSD
    • Synchrotech Pro-series carbon synchros
    • HASport mounts
Phase 2 To-Do
Cooling
  • Go-Autoworks dual core radiator purchased
  • SPAL 12-inch radiator fan purchased
  • Go-Autoworks fan shroud purchased
Phase 3 To-Do
3-port MAC solenoid purchased
3 inch Thermal R&D cat-back purchased
3 inch test pipe purchased
3 inch catalytic converter purchased
Fire sleeve, turbo blanket, wrap, etc. purchased
Go-Autoworks SX500 kit
  • Turbonetics TNX 20/60
  • Go-Autoworks cast manifold
  • 3 inch downpipe
  • Tial 38 mm wastegate
  • Tial BOV
  • Go-Autoworks oil & water lines
  • Go-Autoworks charge pipe / couplers / clamps
  • Go-Autoworks FMIC
  • Dyno tuning session
Ignition
  • Colder park plugs.
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Old 05-07-2019, 12:58 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Parts list for a good 300whp D16Z6, brands are up to you but I'll put down what I used, if anything particular.. Underlined items, don't skimp..

Skunk2 Alpha lite rods (requires only notching the girdle and did not need to notch the block.. time and money saved there)

CP pistons. You can order them in just about any CR you want. Custom pistons are only marginally more expensive than shelf. DO NOT GET CAST PISTONS... FORGED ONLY.. Go ahead and ask me why!!!

Machine work only consisted of bore, deck, and hone. I skipped CSS entirely. (My first build, I went stock bore)

Head: Stock Z6 head will be sufficient up to 500+whp. Rebuild with stock stuff if you'd like. Guides are not neccessary UNLESS they're necessary; i.e. worn, cracked, etc.. Otherwise, leave them be! (My recent build, I rebuilt the head entirely except the guides. Lol)

Fuel: Walbro 255 high pressure will get you pretty far HP-wise.

Injectors: 1000cc is a tad much for 300, 550 or 750 will suffice. (I pulled off nearly 350whp on 750cc, stock rail, pressure and regulator with <70% duty cycle).

Clutch: I hate again to say it, dont go "cheap" here.. Get a good clutch; clutchmaster, ACT, Exedy, etc.. I JUST found out today that my lightweight flywheel is trashed and can not be resurfaced because too much material would have to be removed to clean it up.. This is after only 1 year (5 months alone of boost). Look into Action clutches. Affordable and equivalent to clutchmaster. Exedy is good, pricey OEM quality with upgraded options. For your goal, ACT is like killing a rat with 12G buckshot..

Transmission may or may not need refreshing. Depends on its condition. If you source a swap from a boneyard, you may look into it for safe keeping. I originally purchased my car from a used car lot and it drove well at that time. I swapped my long block only and kept the original trans. Boosted it. It did well.

Your turbo kit (manifold, downpipe, intercooler pipes) is gonna be tricky because of the chassis. You're ultimately gonna have little choice but to customize here, I suggest a reputable company to do this. Talk to Greg at Go-Autoworks to see what he may be able to come up with. Turbo selection should be in the T3, T3/T4 range, .63 A/R 50 trim.

Engine management: Neptune or Hondata. Don't Jack with chip tuning. Annoying. Inexpensive and doable, but, just clunky..
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Old 05-07-2019, 01:07 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by 1stGen76 View Post
Very interesting. If you have a chance, check out the Zeal AutoWerks website for some very cool calculators. What the advanced CR calc tells me is that with a 10:1 CR, at my average elevation (690FT), running a stock D16Z6 (except pistons, I input -5.4 dish vs -10.10 stock to increase the CR, and match your 10:1 for math purposes), you can run 3.19 psi before hitting an "effective" or dynamic CR of 12:1. How much boost were you running, and do you know your piston specs? Maybe I can use those details to create a model and figure out how high you were able to push your dynamic CR.
I can't remember the specs from the 1st pistons, they were in Zeal as PM6. I used Nippon PM6. I ran 17psi from a CXRACING T3/T4 turbo with an approximate CFM of 450.. It was supposed to be good "up to" 400hp. I know I got 22psi out of it one fateful day on my D15B7. Lol! (I still have pics of the aftermath of that one).
Anyhow.. 17psi from that on 10.5:1 compression. After it was finally tuned, with stock interior, I was making chargers blush!
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Old 05-07-2019, 02:31 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by Txdragon View Post
I can't remember the specs from the 1st pistons, they were in Zeal as PM6. I used Nippon PM6. I ran 17psi from a CXRACING T3/T4 turbo with an approximate CFM of 450.. It was supposed to be good "up to" 400hp. I know I got 22psi out of it one fateful day on my D15B7. Lol! (I still have pics of the aftermath of that one). Anyhow.. 17psi from that on 10.5:1 compression. After it was finally tuned, with stock interior, I was making chargers blush!
I did some digging and I think you used:

NIPPON RACING 75MM PM6 HYPEREUTECTIC PISTON AND RING SET
HEAT TREATED PM6 PISTONS, -3.40cc DOME, 29.5mm COMP HIEGHT, MADE OF 2618 ALLOY WITH TEFLON COATED SKIRTS AND 19MM WRIST PINS. (Part# PS-PM6-75)

Of course a calculator is never as good as real world raw data, but I did my best to recreate your build on Zeal, and this is what I came up with.It shows those pistons (or any with that bore, dish, and comp height) to give a 9.95:1 static CR, and a peak 21.16:1 dynamic or "effective" CR under full boost...…..wowzer! I wish I could see some recorded data from your engine management system to verify those assumptions/calculations because that sounds wild, hehe. Something has to be off...if it is not, then the D16 block with no sleeves is a beast and you had one hell of a tuner

That said, if I assume that it is accurate or at the very least can be reverse engineered to give me some idea of how my build would perform, and I modify a few variables to match the CP Pistons I was considering (75.5mm, -3.5cc dish, 29.845 comp height); Then I should be able to push 15.75 psi before I exceed the dynamic CR you maxed out at using 17 psi on a smaller bore build. Zeal Horsepower estimates a conservative 295CHP, 250WHP for my engine at 75.5mm bore with 15.75psi, peaking at 6600RPM, but obviously it cannot calculate every variable. Plus I doubt my RPM curve will be the same after a tuner gets his hands on it....So, that sounds like some strong gains and is very promising.
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Old 05-07-2019, 02:55 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by 1stGen76 View Post
I did some digging and I think you used:

NIPPON RACING 75MM PM6 HYPEREUTECTIC PISTON AND RING SET
HEAT TREATED PM6 PISTONS, -3.40cc DOME, 29.5mm COMP HIEGHT, MADE OF 2618 ALLOY WITH TEFLON COATED SKIRTS AND 19MM WRIST PINS. (Part# PS-PM6-75)

Of course a calculator is never as good as real world raw data, but I did my best to recreate your build on Zeal, and this is what I came up with.It shows those pistons (or any with that bore, dish, and comp height) to give a 9.95:1 static CR, and a peak 21.16:1 dynamic or "effective" CR under full boost...…..wowzer! I wish I could see some recorded data from your engine management system to verify those assumptions/calculations because that sounds wild, hehe. Something has to be off...if it is not, then the D16 block with no sleeves is a beast and you had one hell of a tuner

That said, if I assume that it is accurate or at the very least can be reverse engineered to give me some idea of how my build would perform, and I modify a few variables to match the CP Pistons I was considering (75.5mm, -3.5cc dish, 29.845 comp height); Then I should be able to push 15.75 psi before I exceed the dynamic CR you maxed out at using 17 psi on a smaller bore build. Zeal Horsepower estimates a conservative 295CHP, 250WHP for my engine at 75.5mm bore with 15.75psi, peaking at 6600RPM, but obviously it cannot calculate every variable. Plus I doubt my RPM curve will be the same after a tuner gets his hands on it....So, that sounds like some strong gains and is very promising.
D16 crank and head, pistons are right except the teflon, I got the non coated; headgasket .030", total milling was just a touch; to freshen the surface. Came out just over 10.6:1


My distributor died a couple days after I got it going and when I compression tested during diagnosis of a stubborn engine, it was at 190 on all 4, if that helps any.
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Old 05-07-2019, 03:47 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

If I modify my #'s to match your updated peak "effective CR" (22.68:1) then I can run 17.91 (roughly 18) psi and that bumps the projected HP up to 316CHP, 268WHP and that is still with a with a peak RPM of 6600, which again will most likely be higher when tuned. where did yours fall? My build would be slightly less under-square than yours because of the increased piston size so hopefully that will help with torque and give it a higher potential for increased rpm band. Under-square engines are weird...donno why honda did that in the D-series
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Old 05-07-2019, 04:18 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by 1stGen76 View Post
If I modify my #'s to match your updated peak "effective CR" (22.68:1) then I can run 17.91 (roughly 18) psi and that bumps the projected HP up to 316CHP, 268WHP and that is still with a with a peak RPM of 6600, which again will most likely be higher when tuned. where did yours fall? My build would be slightly less under-square than yours because of the increased piston size so hopefully that will help with torque and give it a higher potential for increased rpm band. Under-square engines are weird...donno why honda did that in the D-series
If I remember correctly, I made peak power around 6.5k, so that sounds about right. The Z6 stock rev limit is 7.5k; cam selection and valvetrain upgrade will change that. I started building boost pressure at 3500 rpm and at 17psi by 5k, VTEC at 5500. This was also last build, stock head and cam. New setup is on hiatus until I get my other block back from machining; this one will be 76mm on stock sleeves. The builder says he feels good it'll hold 18psi from the GTW3476 pretty well, that was my first concern. Powerband will be different on this round due to many changes from the first. I'm confident that Mr. Vega can do this build justice with another great tune. I'm doing a remote dyno session on this one though, rather than the datalog street tune. This will be a fun one!
You've gotta take your turbo into consideration as well, don't forget that!
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:10 AM
  #34  
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by 1stGen76 View Post
Of course a calculator is never as good as real world raw data, but I did my best to recreate your build on Zeal, and this is what I came up with.It shows those pistons (or any with that bore, dish, and comp height) to give a 9.95:1 static CR, and a peak 21.16:1 dynamic or "effective" CR under full boost...…..wowzer! I wish I could see some recorded data from your engine management system to verify those assumptions/calculations because that sounds wild, hehe. Something has to be off...if it is not, then the D16 block with no sleeves is a beast and you had one hell of a tuner
Again, I think you need to ditch this whole theory of basing "dynamic or effective CR" on boost pressure. It is just completely flawed in real life application. 18psi on a t25 turbo and 18psi on a t4 will be worlds of difference in terms of air flow and power output.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:17 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by 2x0 View Post
Again, I think you need to ditch this whole theory of basing "dynamic or effective CR" on boost pressure. It is just completely flawed in real life application. 18psi on a t25 turbo and 18psi on a t4 will be worlds of difference in terms of air flow and power output.
^^ This here. I know for a fact with the new turbo I'll be using this time flows WAY more than my other. By the compressor map, 17psi should put me into the 400hp range whereas my CX turbo was what I feel toward the end of it's rope. I was concerned with the same figures you're looking at because I was going on stock sleeves and all I imagined was my **** blowing like a top when I pushed it. That didn't happen. Lol! You seem much like me; the tendency to overthink without realizing it!
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:01 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

For your first time, don't try to dive deep into the theory or you'll end up with "analysis paralysis." Lean on what others before you have done and/or talk with the pros at STC, Go-Autoworks, etc.

You'll be fine running ~10:1 static compression. Or if it just bothers you, run CP pistons 9:1 shelf piston (P/N SC7026 for 75.5mm) - that's what I'm doing.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:01 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by DaX View Post
For your first time, don't try to dive deep into the theory or you'll end up with "analysis paralysis." Lean on what others before you have done and/or talk with the pros at STC, Go-Autoworks, etc.

You'll be fine running ~10:1 static compression. Or if it just bothers you, run CP pistons 9:1 shelf piston (P/N SC7026 for 75.5mm) - that's what I'm doing.
AKA, "Do not try to reinvent the wheel." 99.9% of everything in the honda hybrid realm has been done and beat to death. This includes every forced induction combination imaginable, Naturally aspirated combinations, Hybrid engine combinations, 70's-00's swaps, lifted/lowered, ecu/wiring combinations, rwd/awd,fwd combinations and so on......Do not be the .1% unless you have more money than you know what to do with.

I'm all for the science to support the theories....but it's a huge waste of time unless you have abundance of that too. Like alone in prison cell for years, kind of time. With no intentions of actually physically "doing work"

With that said, hope the build goes as planned. Looks like a fun project.
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:45 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Updated list for review, anything listed as "- XXXX" are brand options I am exploring...I would love thoughts on the list and brands. Also, I am worried about traction at 300whp, FWD, with such a light car. Anyone have thoughts on that....does anyone know of a Rex or something in the 1900-2400lb catagory with this kind of power that stays stuck to the ground? Hehe...I have heard the first 3 gears can be a little slick in such cars and I am trying to evaluate what I will need to do to combat that. use a boost controller to reduce boost while DD, use different tires/wheels, custom gearing...etc.

D16Z6/Y8 Engine

Top End (Y8 Head with Port & Polish)
*Upgrade the Valvetrain
*Valves/Springs/Retainers/Valve Locks/Stem Seals
- Ferrea
- SuperTech
- Crower
*Cam
- Comp
- Zex
- Delta (Bisi Clone)
*OEM Y8 Intake Manifold (Port-matched)
*ARP Head Studs
*Honda OEM 62mm Throttle Body

Bottom End (D16Z6/Y8 Block)
*Overbore cylinders +0.05mm
*Install CSS/Block Gaurd,
*Deck & Hone
*Notch Girdle and Cyl. for rod clearance
*Cometic Headgasket
*Vitara Forged Pistons (75.5mm)
- CR 9-10:1
*Eagle Forged Rods (137.01mm)
*ACL Rod Bearings
*ARP Rod Bolts
*Micropolished OEM Z6 Crank (90mm)
*Ported OEM Oil Pump

Boost Kit
*T3/T4 Turbo (****T3, T3/T4 range, .63 A/R 50 trim)
- GT28-series
- Super 16G
- DSM 14B
*Turbo Manifold
*Wastegate (BOV)
- Tail
- HKS
*Dual Core Radiator/Shroud/Fan
*Front Mount Intercooler

Drivetrain
*S20 EX Transmission
*SuperTech Carbon Synchros & New Sleeves
*SuperTech Bearing & Seals
*LSD
- MFactory
- Quaife
*Stage 2/3/4? Clutch
- Competition
- Clutchmaster
- Exedy
- Action
- LSD 6 Puck

Fuel Management
*750cc Fuel Injectors
*Walbro Fuel Pump
- 190
- 255
*OEM Fuel Filter/Lines/Rail

Engine Management
*3 or 4 Bar MAP Sensor?
- Hondata
- TunerToys
*Engine Management System
- Hondata S-Series (200/300)
- Neptune
*Boost Controller?

Misc Items
*Hasport '96 Civic Engine Mounts
*Aeromotive FPR/Pressure Gauge
*Boost/Oil Pressure/Wideband Gauges

Exhaust System
*Downpipe & Exhaust
- 2.5"
- 3"
*Muffler/Resonator

NOTE: I am going to talk to Greg at Go-Autoworks about the Turbo Kit....?

About Static vs. effective CR - I am not nearly as concerned, see the below quotes that I have found after reading more about this topic...

Originally Posted by 2x0 View Post
10:1 or higher compression for turbo Honda builds has been the norm for a decade or more. It simply means that you will not have to run as much boost to reach a given power level as you would with low compression, but you also get the added benefits of a more responsive engine when not in boost.
"I've driven a great many turbo cars over the years, and what is found is that the slightly smaller turbocharger with higher static compression has a better overall powerband will easily out accelerate the overly large turbocharger on a smaller displacement engine with lower static compression. The explosion of power that many youthful drivers wish for in theory, hurt them in application; by the time the acceleration that is felt by the Big turboed smaller engined setup can get to speed, the other car is already far ahead... Higher static compression assists in being able to have recovery spool a bit more quickly. It isn't the "magic key" to getting a big turbo to try and behave like a small one. - TheShodan (Moderator, D-Series.com)
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Old 05-10-2019, 07:15 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by 1stGen76 View Post
*Overbore cylinders +0.05mm +0.5 mm
*Vitara Forged Pistons (75.5mm) (Vitara pistons are cast - choose a true forged piston)
*3 or 4 Bar MAP Sensor? How much boost do you want to run?
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Old 05-10-2019, 07:20 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

2.5 bar will be more than enough
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Old 05-10-2019, 07:44 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Yes traction will be problematic. First you need a solid suspension setup so things aren’t moving all over the place when trying to put the power down. On the EF’s we use an upgraded traction bar setup to keep the front wheels in place, but idk what’s available for your gen.

Next, stuff the biggest tires you can fit under the front fenders, and boost by gear is a must.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:18 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by Txdragon View Post
2.5 bar will be more than enough
I wiuld use a simple 3 bar. 1bar is for atmosphere, while the other 2 bar is to see positive boost pressure. The voltage reading on most systems used today are available to calibrate in 3bar & 4bar. 2.5bar is an odd duck, and throws readings and tuning off if not specifically chosen or calibrated for it.
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Old 05-11-2019, 09:55 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by TheShodan View Post
I wiuld use a simple 3 bar. 1bar is for atmosphere, while the other 2 bar is to see positive boost pressure. The voltage reading on most systems used today are available to calibrate in 3bar & 4bar. 2.5bar is an odd duck, and throws readings and tuning off if not specifically chosen or calibrated for it.
Had no tuning issues with Omnipower 2.5bar and Neptune.
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:20 AM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by Txdragon View Post
Had no tuning issues with Omnipower 2.5bar and Neptune.
POSSIBLY . I always expect the worse and hope for the best by testing each management system in plan to use. plus, if he plans to increase body pressure past 22.5psi later. he's not limited.

Last edited by TheShodan; 05-11-2019 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 05-11-2019, 02:57 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Alright, so first and foremost I considered getting a Hondata 4 Bar Map sensor because it was only $99, but I am more than happy with a 2 or 3 bar...I have heard elsewhere that 2.5 bars can be problematic so I most likely will not get one.

AS for traction...this is a serious concern because I cannot find anyone that has a traction support bar that will fit my chassis. That leaves three options, modify a bar to fit, modify the chassis to accept a bar in its stock form, or lastly have someone fabricate a sub-frame. The sub-frame would offer torsional support to the chassis as well, which I may need to be honest. I know this chassis is light because I can climb in the engine bay, pick up the front end and move it around with relative ease (rear axel/wheels on), and I am not a big guy...

I know that Katch24 (on K20a.org, see the thread here), who installed a k-series engine into a two door 1st gen. civic had to fabricate a sub-frame and modify the shock towers to get it to work. My fear is that I will need to go this direction - mostly because of the additional cost associated with that method. Here are some pics of his build for reference:






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Old 05-11-2019, 03:13 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

The traction bar would be custom, for sure. I would highly suggest boost by gear for whatever EMS you go with. With BBG, you'd be less obligated to necessity of said traction bar.
As for the 2.5bar sensor; I ran into the same "problem" and all the issue was finding the right offsets, which I tracked down after a couple phone calls. The others were actually more "problematic" in larger terms, but work.
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Old 05-11-2019, 03:58 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

For those helping me...check this out...do you think I could do something similar?

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Old 05-11-2019, 04:18 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

ZC would be difficult to source unless you order one from Hmotors or similar site. Block specs are close, if not identical to the Z6, rod length, deck height, stroke ratio, etc.. Dual cam non VTEC or single cam vtec. Would be interesting as well.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:30 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

Originally Posted by Txdragon View Post
ZC would be difficult to source unless you order one from Hmotors or similar site. Block specs are close, if not identical to the Z6, rod length, deck height, stroke ratio, etc.. Dual cam non VTEC or single cam vtec. Would be interesting as well.
No I just mean can I use what he is doing is blueprint for my build with a z6 (as he mentions my car will have 4" more inches in the nose than his 1200 did.
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Old 05-11-2019, 05:01 PM
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Default Re: 1976 Honda CVCC engine Turbo swap Project: To "B", or not to "B"?

That K swap, dude did not modify the shock towers to fit the engine, he modified them to retrofit the knuckles and suspension. Likely to fit the axles. He actually lost space in the engine bay.

Dont know if you know that, just pointing out why I think he did the modification.
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