I Have an STD

ok, heres the setup.

bone stock 98 B18b
borg warner GM-8
DSM 450s
2.5 bar map sensor
2.5 inch turboback
Uberdata

ever since my buddy tuned me, its idles at about 1100 rpm, which, for what i paid him, i didnt care about. now, lately, since its been a little colder, the car wants to idle at 1800 RPM most of the time. sometimes it idles pretty solid at 1100. sometimes, no matter how warmed up it is, it will idle at 1800. i switched to an obd1 IACV after this started, but it does the same thing with the new one. idle screw is all the way in, the FITV is bypassed, and the throttle cable is NOT to tight.

another problem im having is with my PLX M-250 wideband. when i start the car, it seems to read 14.5-15.5 even after it warms up, for about 15 secs. after that, it slowly walks its way to 19.9 and stays there until i rev the car. when i rev it and drive it around, it seems to function normally, and responds to changes that we made in uberdata. anyone else having either of these problems? im pretty stuped

pic for views




Modified by I Have an STD at 2:28 PM 10/29/2006


Modified by I Have an STD at 9:29 PM 10/29/2006

boosted k20

take the charge pipe off the TB. with the car on, place ur finger over the hole inside the throttle body (it will suck ur finger a little bit but dont be scare )
if the idle goes down and the car doesn shut off, just JB weld that hole. i've done that many times with no issues. if u dont want to do that, then try a new OBD2 TB

boosted k20

also, try this. take a flat head screw driver and place it on the TB spring/opened thingy that the cable is attached to. hit the screw driver with a hammer. the tB might not be closing all the way

coneheadsracing

You also have to unplug one of the sensors when adjusting your idle screw, otherewise it will do nothing for you. At least obd I, i haven't tried it on an obdII throttle body yet. Its in the service manual. Otherwise have him reburn you a new chip with a lower rpm for idle.

boosted k20

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coneheadsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You also have to unplug one of the sensors when adjusting your idle screw, otherewise it will do nothing for you. At least obd I, i haven't tried it on an obdII throttle body yet. Its in the service manual. Otherwise have him reburn you a new chip with a lower rpm for idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats not true. u dont need to unplug any sensor to change the idle speed on the TB.

u can see what ur friend set the idle to in uberdata..... but im not 100% sure if the idle control function in uberdata works

I Have an STD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats not true. u dont need to unplug any sensor to change the idle speed on the TB.

u can see what ur friend set the idle to in uberdata..... but im not 100% sure if the idle control function in uberdata works</TD></TR></TABLE>

it doesnt work very well. the idle is set at 750 in uber

I Have an STD

any ideas on the wideband problem?

NJIN BUILDR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any ideas on the wideband problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your probably in a "untuned cell".Because you idle is high with no load your in a fuel tuning cell that's not normally tuned and happens to be lean.
I assume you have checked for a intake leak.

coneheadsracing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats not true. u dont need to unplug any sensor to change the idle speed on the TB.

u can see what ur friend set the idle to in uberdata..... but im not 100% sure if the idle control function in uberdata works</TD></TR></TABLE>

What engine are you playing with? All my books tell me to unhook the EACV or IACV, which is the same thing, before starting the car, and then changing the idle, then shut the car off, plug it back in and go from there, and then my good manual, helms or whatever it is says to reset the ECU. I personaly have never had my idle change unless i unplug my IACV, i guess you have had different luck

Ubers rmp does seem to work, just not all the time. I have mine set to 1200 idle, and most the time its there.

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

fix your fast idle valve ******

I Have an STD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coneheadsracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What engine are you playing with? All my books tell me to unhook the EACV or IACV, which is the same thing, before starting the car, and then changing the idle, then shut the car off, plug it back in and go from there, and then my good manual, helms or whatever it is says to reset the ECU. I personaly have never had my idle change unless i unplug my IACV, i guess you have had different luck

Ubers rmp does seem to work, just not all the time. I have mine set to 1200 idle, and most the time its there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the correct way to change the idle, youre correct.


THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!!! i opened up my FITV and saw that the little white thing that holds the valve in had backed out a few threads. tightened it back up and my WB reads at idle now, it idles at 850, and i pull 5 more in/hq at idle (i couldnt figure out why it only pulled 15 in/hg) im so ******* happy right now, the idle problem and shitty vac had been plaguing me for weeks!!!!

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats the correct way to change the idle, youre correct.


THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!!! i opened up my FITV and saw that the little white thing that holds the valve in had backed out a few threads. tightened it back up and my WB reads at idle now, it idles at 850, and i pull 5 more in/hq at idle (i couldnt figure out why it only pulled 15 in/hg) im so ******* happy right now, the idle problem and shitty vac had been plaguing me for weeks!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your welcome

I Have an STD

yes, thanks. i still cant believe it was something this stupid

blackeg

glad that is worked out. i wonder if this was going on when the car was tuned. that is a possibliity that might lead to the a/f changing up a bit once it was fixed... im sure i could have been more helpful if i wasnt a few 100 miles away.

I Have an STD

yeah, cept i re-tuned it yesterday and fixed the idle today, but yes, it seems like its gotten worse since you tuned the car, so that could be a fix contributing factor

whiteef8

awesome that you fixed it. when i was n/a, i always had that problem, as in mine would back out and screw with my idle like every 3 weeks. finally i just blocked off the hole with an aluminum black off plate. you think it will affect me when im boosted??

I Have an STD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whiteef8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome that you fixed it. when i was n/a, i always had that problem, as in mine would back out and screw with my idle like every 3 weeks. finally i just blocked off the hole with an aluminum black off plate. you think it will affect me when im boosted?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the right thing to do. trust me, i'll be doing the same thing.

nuckingfuts