Daniel-sanB1

what's up guys.

I have my JDM B18B Chrome tuned and Mustang Dyno'ed at 211WHP & 187WT.
I have a GT28R turbo, and my waist gate has a 10 pound spring in it.


when reading on Boosted B18Bs on HT, I was pretty sure I going to get around 250whp, and was pretty disappointed with my low numbers.


should I raise the boost level to 14PSI and get it re tuned ??


my engine is stock, and this is my daily driver.

alpha

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daniel-sanB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's up guys.

I have my JDM B18B Chrome tuned and Mustang Dyno'ed at 211WHP & 187WT.
I have a GT28R turbo, and my waist gate has a 10 pound spring in it.


when reading on Boosted B18Bs on HT, I was pretty sure I going to get around 250whp, and was pretty disappointed with my low numbers.


should I raise the boost level to 14PSI and get it re tuned ??


my engine is stock, and this is my daily driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont always feed into dyno numbers. Your turbo isnt the biggest and your head isnt the best flowing. It's harder to make power on LS engines. Period. I ASSume your car was loaded when tuned on the Mustang Dyno? Loaded numbers are generally lower than unloaded numbers. If you are happy with the way the car is pulling and/or with track times then I see no problem(s). If your tuner is confident you can make more power have him tune for more boost

Topdawgg

could be ur exhaust size... could be Anything...

i know a friend of mine makin 303whp on 12psi on a bone stock LS.. and i also have a friend makin 255whp and 222 tq at 11Psi....

it all depends on ur setup

CivicVX94

fyi "psi" doesn't break ****....horsepower breaks ****

if you think your engine is in good enough shape to make some more power, then turn up the boost. your tuner should be able to tell you if it'll be safe or not.

MassScene

211 on a mustang dyno translates to about 245 on a dyno jet. I like mustang numbers better. People are always impressed by cars that are tuned on mustang dynos. "woah, your car only has 250 to the wheels?? damn!!!!!!"

Daniel-sanB1

ok, I'll talk to my tuner.

I love the way my car drives, but i got use to it real fast, I want more top end power.

I have a full Greddy SP2 exhaust 2.75", Bully stage 3 clutch. equal length manifold,
I was thinking of slapping a VTEC head on, but why go through all that when I can just turn up the boost

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daniel-sanB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, I'll talk to my tuner.

I love the way my car drives, but i got use to it real fast, I want more top end power.

I have a full Greddy SP2 exhaust 2.75", Bully stage 3 clutch. equal length manifold,
I was thinking of slapping a VTEC head on, but why go through all that when I can just turn up the boost </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well more top end power isnt going to be made on stock valve train and stock revs. Also the stock cams unless you have cam gears arent going to make alot of power over the stock revs.

The gt28rs is also not going to make huge top end power either. The design of this turbo is to be extremely streetable and make alot of mid range power, expecially with an LS longblock. You can turn up the boost to make more power if you want providing you have a motor that is in good shape and a good tuner. Be conservative on the timing and it will be fine.

Rpm kills rod bolts, heat kills pistons, so be conservative and you will not have an issue. I would personally keep the 10 psi spring and get an MBC at least to turn up the boost pressure. drive it on 10 and turn it up at teh track or if you plan on racing someone

motormike40

Is the gt28rs larger then a Garret T3? How will the 2 perform different?

Daniel-sanB1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Rpm kills rod bolts, heat kills pistons, so be conservative and you will not have an issue. I would personally keep the 10 psi spring and get an MBC at least to turn up the boost pressure. drive it on 10 and turn it up at teh track or if you plan on racing someone </TD></TR></TABLE>

what's an MBC ?

Daniel-sanB1

and I don't have the disco potato (GT28RS)

I jsut have the GT28R

Topdawgg

MBC= manual boost controller

quick_ls

running 14 psi right now stock b18b running rich. works pretty damn good!

Raced on the highway against a GSR running 10 lbs and pushing 290 whp. I pulled in 4th and 5th on him. I looooove ls motors. But then again, his car weighs in about 400 lbs more then mine

Daniel-sanB1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quick_ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">running 14 psi right now stock b18b running rich. works pretty damn good!

Raced on the highway against a GSR running 10 lbs and pushing 290 whp. I pulled in 4th and 5th on him. I looooove ls motors. But then again, his car weighs in about 400 lbs more then mine </TD></TR></TABLE>

see that's what I want.


and yes, I'g get a APEXi Electronic boost controller.

it's not that I don't trust my tuner, it's just that I want to hear more then one persone's opinions on what these motors can stand with my choise of turbo.

Daniel-sanB1

bump

raene

I tuned a friend's B18B to 250hp on a Dynojet, pretty close to your setup, 13-14 psi ish.

More than power, run it at the track and see how fast it is... that's what matters...