datbumper

What's up guys. Looking for a little advice. This is going to be more of an in-depth question than the average "what do I need to make 900hp". I just recently purchased a 00 Civic Si with a GSR engine swap. I want to boost. Here is a taste of my mod list... I know alot of it isn't necessary, so those things will come last. Going to hit up the suspension first, then focus on the powaaa.

So I'll be using the car to drive to and from school. It is my first car, and will also be my first turbo build. It needs to be reliable, but I also want to have fun with it. Don't want too much power. Looking for something around 400-450.

-Koni/GC (450F/400R)
-DC carbon-steel front strut bar (not sure if it would be compatible with a boosted engine)
-Gold Beaks tie bar
-Function7 silver LCA's
-ASR neochrome subframe brace w/ ASR 24mm sway bar
-NGK Iridium spark plugs
-Password: JDM carbon fiber PowerChamber intake (not sure if it would be compatible with a boosted engine)
-Hondata S3000
-Ferrea valves
-Ferrea valvetrain
-Tial BOV (not sure of size yet)
-Tial wastegate (not sure of size yet)
-ARP head studs
-ARP main studs
-ID 1000cc injectors
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-Skunk2/Edelbrock (whichever I find cheapest) intake manifold
-Skunk2 throttle body (not sure of size yet)
-Eagle rods
-Arias pistons, most likely
-TURBO: Silver Surfer or GT3255B I believe it's called, I'm sure Shodan will see this and help me out with that :D

I am wanting to keep AC and PS if doable since I live in Louisiana and it gets hot as hell, but I'm also wanting a topmount exhaust mani. I like the looks of them.

Questions:
1. Is there a way to have 2 different tunes (one conservative for DD, one for "spirited driving" days) for the car, so that you could simply flip a switch or change something on the ECU? Is this what a boost controller does?

2. If the block cracks or a a rod is thrown, what will become ruined? Say I purchase aftermarket pistons, upgrade my valvetrain/cam gears/cams, etc. Will those be salvageable? I am really not wanting to pay ~$1200 to sleeve the block just to make 450hp, but I am also really not wanting to crack my block or ruin any of the expensive aftermarket parts. I would definitely save for a good tune but would this be enough "security"?

3. Turbo exhaust mani brand suggestions and material suggestions?

Thanks all!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

You dont need two different tunes. It gets tuned and you can turn the boost up and down for what your trying to do but it will most likely end up turned up all the time as thats the most fun.

You can make 400 on stock GSR with the right fuel Hell you can make 450. Stock sleeves on that kind of HP is very reliable with a good tune. I would keep it as basic as possible. Dont go replacing valves etc. keep it simple = reliable.

are you trying to retain a/c p/s ? or just p/s or non of the above? there are a ton of manifold choices.

datbumper

I was really wanting to keep AC and PS. I just don't want to feel scared to rev up to 9k :/. I was also looking into picking up a bare GSR block and doing a complete rebuild. That way, I could have a basically OEM GSR engine as my backup in case anything happens, while I can put in my fully built GSR block to have fun.

datbumper

Forgot to mention it will be tuned on 93 octane.

OneBadTurboCRV

About half of that list isn't needed and some won't work. Spending money in the wrong places. You also misspelled/mislabeled quite a few parts as well. You should focus on school and research more before you even remotely think about this type of build. I can see this car going in the ditch in a hurry... You should NEVER buy a part because it "looks good". Form as a result of Function - then OK, but never Form as a deciding factor over Function.

Khnemu

iTrader: (1)

You left out so many things relevant to what you're trying to do you're going to run out of money buying those things and end up selling everything for less then you paid for them. A 400 whp, reliable, daily driven build with A/C and P/S is going to be expensive. You should buy a little EG/EK beater and do the build on the side because you're in for a ton of headaches and no car to buy parts with.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

guys it really isnt that hard, or that bad or that expensive to retain a/c and p/s I been there i did it in my DC and it was very reliable for years with minimal upkeep. Dont misguide the guy. Brutal !

nealnanoHX

Ok you want 900whp on a boosted GSR motor, doable but not easy or cheap. You need to sleeve the block, forged pistons and rods, ARP head bolts, rod and main bolts to keep the motor in one piece. Find a good engine builder for the motor work. For the head you will need some cams to help you get to your goal hard to get 900whp on stock cams and I would be doing some valve springs and retainer as well. Some head work would be very helpful but not 100% needed. A larger intake mani like a BBK, Endyn or Victor X and a larger TB I would say 68-70mm. A good turbo to make the 900whp you want, Shodan can help out here. A good turbo mani like a top mount but you will amlost certainly loose AC and/or PS for clearance reasons. At least 1000cc injectors. I would go with a 400lph fuel pump. Sorry but pump gas aint going to get you 900whp, look to E85 or race fuel. At least a 3 inch exhaust if not 3.5 inch. Ok now take a set back and see how much all this will cost you. Now unless you have deep pockets take a step back and be more realistic. First 900whp for a DD street car is not practical in any way, whay do you need 900whp just to go to and from work and to get you around. Now 400whp is more realistic if you want a crazy fast street Honda, even 350whp is more than enough. Personally I would either do a mild turbo set up for around $2000-$2500 on the stock motor and tune for 300whp, that is very easy to get on a 100% stock motor and it will be reliable. Then save up and build another bottom end to have more power and reliability and go for 400whp and call it done. 400whp is very doable on a mild built bottom end with just forged rods, pistons and ARP hardware and everything else stock in the head hell you can even do 400whp on the stock intake mani and TB.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

read the original post again he said 450 not 900

VtecCarHauler

Those are easily attainable goals. If the engine is tight you can make 400whp without lifting the head on a good tune. However it makes sense to just do pistons/rods, new bearings, new oil pump, balance and check everything on the bottom. Head just valve springs/retainers fresh valve job, head studs and your go to go minus the external supporting parts. I have a stock sleeve true street civic making 550whp on stock sleeve just a piston and rod motor. Changed the cams now it makes 640whp stock sleeves, stock valves, springs/retainers. Keeping a/c means it will be a very tight fit in there, trust me I did it on my stock sleeve 550whp street car. At worst you'll loose your PS. I would go with a SPA top mount because it leaves the most room if using A/C and is super durable. 1 tune with a ebc 2 boost settings. Really your foot is the boost controller.

nealnanoHX

lol at me

datbumper

Like I said, I know I don't need alot of it, and some of it's not necessarily even relevant to the turbo build. Just thought I'd include it. If it bothers you all that much, I can take it out.

datbumper

Read the original post. Not sure what parts I mislabeled or misspelled, but go ahead and point them out to me, that'd be great. Make sure your computer's spell-check is working also since I don't have it on mine. I may have a few spelling mistakes and "labeling" mistakes, but I think analytical reading problems are a little worse than accidental misspellings.
1. I'm good in the school department. I have a 4.2 GPA at the 26th best high school in the nation, thanks though.
2. I've done a ****-ton of research. Of course there's always more to do, though.
3.Only part I said I'm buying because of looks is the topmount manifold, and that's not even a matter of compensating form for function, so I'm not really sure where you got that from. All the parts on my mod list are tried-and-true, have hundreds of reviews, and are from reputable brands.

ryguy2588

iTrader: (11)

As said before, there's no need for two different tunes.

My first build ended up cracking a sleeve, and I was able to salvage everything from the block besides the actual block. I'm actually using the same rods and crank from that motor in my current motor. It all depends on the situation. Throwing a rod, in most cases, trashes a whole bottom end and maybe the head.

I haven't kept PS or AC before, but I would recommend a stainless tubular manifold. We use schedule 40 stainless for our manifolds, but schedule 10 works as well. Go-Autoworks, Full-Race, or PFab manifolds are a few companies that make good manifolds.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

When did s3000 come out? Sounds like its super baller.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

That list is ridiculous. If it isn't needed or pertinent then why bother to list it? Sounds to me like you're flailing in the dark hoping to hit the bullseye. Ex. Beaks bar? Koni/GC? ASR Neochrome subframe brace? Powerchamber intake? (Big OMG at this one)

You have all this but no mention if the A/C compatible manifold you'll need. Among other things.

Sounds like you need some reading to do. Lots. Question #2 has me scratching my head. Trick question. BTW. You sleeve the block and beef up the internals so that stuff doesn't happen.

Do yourself a favor and just get the 450hp capable kit from Goasutoworks and save yourself some thinking.

datbumper

Maybe I shouldn't of included them... they are, after all, irrelevant to the turbo build.

Second of all, that's what I'm looking for you guys to help me with. I know I'll need a downpipe, chargepipe, manifold, and many other things. That's what I'm asking you guys to help me with. Brands, types, etc.

I know why you sleeve the block. The thing is, I don't want to... or rather, I don't want to PAY for it. That's over $1000. I'd rather save that money for other parts if it's not necessary. I was asking if something does go wrong, such as the sleeve cracking, would the other parts be salvageable? Pistons, rods, etc.

Sorry for the confusion.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Just wondering why you don't find some 450hp builds, find the one most fitting what you want to do and copy it part for part. Why do you people make things so damn hard?
Sleeving. Find the answer to this question. Stock sleeves begin having issue at about ___________ horsepower?
And I already told you to check out the GoAutoworks kits for starters. There are others but that was the first company that comes to mind.

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

post up a picture of your tial gate and we'll be able to help you figure out what you have.

also your tial bov is a 50MM ( they all are) and its the 1st and last blow off valve you'll ever need to purchase.

rvn2svn

There's no way to answer question 2 Rods / pistons spinning hella fast go where they want when they fail. I had a V-6 highlander that got towed in a few days ago to my dealership that blew 4 holes out the front of the block, took everything below the crank out, sent two piston pieces through the transmission, bent most of the valves and destroyed the rear head.

rich7777

About two weeks ago now...

eg6islife

Its your first car and you want 400-450whp? thats kinda crazy. but again its do able. If i was you build the block and everyone one here can tell you "you can make _____ much power on a GSR ect. heck they had a stock sleeve b16 i believe at 500whp at 24psi it doesn't matter, it still leaves the variable of something going wrong.. if your pulling the motor to build it then why skip over that step?

Questions:
1. Is there a way to have 2 different tunes (one conservative for DD, one for "spirited driving" days) for the car, so that you could simply flip a switch or change something on the ECU? Is this what a boost controller does?
like turbo ls said just up the boost. you could run two tunes if you really wanted that up to you. i know on my AEM i have a switch running two tunes.

2. If the block cracks or a a rod is thrown, what will become ruined? Say I purchase aftermarket pistons, upgrade my valvetrain/cam gears/cams, etc. Will those be salvageable? I am really not wanting to pay ~$1200 to sleeve the block just to make 450hp, but I am also really not wanting to crack my block or ruin any of the expensive aftermarket parts. I would definitely save for a good tune but would this be enough "security"?

anything can happen.. anything. you may get lucky and salvage something or lose it all.. not every motor blows the same.

3. Turbo exhaust mani brand suggestions and material suggestions?
research for one that will keep your ac/ps. again these cars didn't come with turbos so its slim pickings to find something to slip in and keep all of it. again you can though they do make them.

datbumper

I don't have any of these parts yet. Only thing I've even ordered is the coilovers. I want to know what size I should get, not what size I have lol. And I thought Tial made BOV in the 40+mm range? Could've sworn I've seen that in people's build lists...

datbumper

Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to buy a spare B18C1 block, take my time, and build it right. I'm going to sleeve it just for my own sake of not having to worry. While I'm building that one, I'll just keep the stock one in my car for now.

1. Not going to worry about 2 different tunes, especially after what I've heard from you guys. I'll just use my foot as the "conservative" tune .

datbumper

Also, just did some research on wastegates. It looks like I need to start piecing together my build a little more definitively (especialy the exhaust mani, which turbo I want, DP and CP) before I decide between the 38mm or 44mm.