wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I literally can't catch a break... turbocharger thrust bearing on the dart has failed already. I've barely had the car a week and haven't even touched it. plus dodge is trying to say that even though the turbocharger is covered under the power train warranty on paper it might not actually be covered in real life. luckily the dealer I bought it from has there own little warranty deal.

I need a vacation

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

Good evening gentlemen! I hope LightningTeg can chime in since I know he recently switched turbo manifolds. Though I'm open to any advice/discussing options.

I am trying to make my setup even more responsive, looking to switch from my Full-Race T3 Topmount to possibly a mini ram manifold. Though I came across a thread about few years ago when Full Race tested a Ramhorn vs Topmount and they stated the Topmount spooled the turbo just as fast and actually picked up some midrange. Don't know how much truth is in the testing or just marketing to help sell Topmounts :p.

setup is
84x87mm GSR
Laskey Head with valve job
ITR cams with Supertech valvetrain
Skunk2 Pro Series IM/ stock TB
Precision 600hp IC
Full-race T3 topmount/with 44mm Tial WG
Garrett GT3037R . 63 housing with Full-race 4" Downpipe
Tuned on S300
Car runs mostly on 93 pump
Car made 435whp and 278trq on 16psi 93 pump
523whp and 362trq on C16

Worth switching manifolds or just over thinking the setup.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

We've unhinged FULL-RACE's test with actual utility on the street & circuit beyond the dyno years ago.

A mini-ram, & kiwi styled manifolds for that turbo.

Not much more to discuss, really. Unless you have a turbo over 65lbs/min looking to only drag race the car, the top mount is a waste of time

2kdrift

the full race comparison was a ram horn vs log and is somewhat debatable but is shows slightly longer spool and more power on the top end which does make since, only possibility is they somehow made the spool time look less then it was in real life via tunning /dyno.

Here is the original post

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

I'm content with the current pump gas power, just need a fatter powerband and more grip/traction. Ditching the current Topmount would free up major space for me.

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

I remember that manifold test lol, that was a interesting log manifold they choose to pit against the ram horn lol. This link below is the thread I was speaking of, it's over 10 years old so no pics work but it's a far amount to read to get the general idea.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...gt35r-1515492/

2kdrift

yea I beleive that the pic and video were from that post I forget where i found the image it took some deep searching so I saved it.

well that was from 10 years ago so manifold options were not like what we have now. Im with shodan on this tho mini ram for more responsiveness or ram horn for slightly more power up top

DickensA

Made a box for this battery i picked up


someone told me optimas are junk, is this true?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is true.

boosted94gsr

Optima batteries were a lot better when they were still made in the USA, after they started production in Mexico there batteries went to crap. It wasn't uncommon to get 8+ years of service out of the old USA production optima batteries.

DickensA

What other batteries should i look into? I picked this one to help with the amp draw the spal fan pull.

My idle doesnt drop as bad as the last battery

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

XS Power Batteries

2kdrift

are you running alot of electronics? my run of the mill battery works fine for me, and yes I have a sound system chinese amp overated at 1600W powering 2 12"s. I did get a rebuilt alt off ebay from some mexican guy supposed to be 90A seemed to work pretty good

DickensA

Started tuning this stock ls motor and messed with timing down low during spool up

I took out about 3 degrees of timing from 2100-2800 rpm and made about 2psi more boost. afr got richer so I still need to lean it out a bit.

ls joker

patchy,... whats good.

what happened to the b20v setup. AND that mini ram you made. didnt last long enough to get final pics up

DickensA

The b20 shot a rod through the block remember?

The mini ram is on the car right now ill post some pics up later

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

How did DickensA get banned already LOL

boosted94gsr

He has a long history of being banned well before that user name. I actually enjoy having him around, keeps things interesting/entertaining lol.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Yes I know who it is and I've always thought he was pretty funny. I don't mind **** talking, but it's almost like the dude has some sort of permanent ban LOL.

m4xwellmurd3r

Been a long time since I've been on HT haha. I know this is the FI section but I always get a lot better info than some of the others (and I do have plans on going boost)

anyways, I need to put a different head on my car. I've been running this worn out stock head for 3 years now and it's got a totally trashed guide on cylinder 1 and it smokes like a damn freight train.

So I decided to freshen up my ported head now that I know i can just run stock retainers on the dual springs it has. It got me wondering though about the port job that's done on it.

It's an LS head, but I was wondering what you guys thought of the port work. I'm tempted to hit it with like, 80 grit to get back some texture on the runners since they're all smoothed.

These are pics of the intake and exhaust ports, as well as stock ports for comparison.

DiabolicGambit

Quick question.. I have a f20b.. overbored to 86mm with bismoto 11.0-1 forged pistons arp bolts and studs blox dual springs/ti retainers skunk2 stage 2 camshafts hks cams skunk2 70mm tb fierra high compression valves with a 3 angle job..no porting on the head.. but the intake manifold (stock) has been gutted.. she is ready for a turbo.. but I don't know what size is best.. I have a comptech head gasket. She makes 179hp (made 218hp) now chipped and tuned on neptune (Matt shue) realistically I'm shooting for a reliable 350-370 hp and about 280 torque VTech hits at 5500.. I have a 2.25 straight exhaust. I'd like my turbo to kick in right about when my VTech hits.. for that jetpack feel... But save me a ton on gas when I drive normally. Also I have precision turbo 440 wide angle injectors (straight off a mustang I believe) currently running at less then 60% saturation.

DiabolicGambit

Not one suggestion...?

m4xwellmurd3r

Honestly it depends on your budget. but for that power goal a simple 57 trim T3/T04e turbo would work good. It'll kick in before 5500rpm I'm sure (I don't think you'd ever want a turbo that spooled THAT late. that's just horrible for your power under the curve) but the 57 trim is probably the most ideal turbo for your power goals. Maybe not most ideal, but definitely a very easy to reach with that turbo without having to run a lot of boost.

H22Honda98

Anyone with experience switching to a larger intake manifold? Im planning to build my block over the winter and turn the boost way up. Im toying with the idea of getting rid of the stock H23A1 intake manifold and picking up the (beautiful) Golden Eagle manifold. I believe it is right about double the plenum volume of my current manifold and im concerned that it would hurt the responsiveness of the turbo having to fill that big plenum up before i can build positive pressure. I dont really want to trade torque/power under the curve for top end hp.

experience/opinions?

m4xwellmurd3r

With intake manifolds they shift powerband, big plenum, short runner, power shifts up high. Smaller plenum, longer runners shift the power down to the mid range. An intake manifold like that would push power up high while one like a skunk 2 would keep power in the midrange like you want.