Themouse

Ok I just built my b16a with cp 9-1 pistons, eagle rods, bored to 81.5mm, and arp rod bolts, I'm using my stock b16 head and a greddy 18g turbo wanting to achieve 325whp and want to know what people would suggest for break in because i hear alot of different things like you you beat on it right away. thanx guys

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Themouse &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok I just built my b16a with cp 9-1 pistons, eagle rods, bored to 81.5mm, and arp rod bolts, I'm using my stock b16 head and a greddy 18g turbo wanting to achieve 325whp and want to know what people would suggest for break in because i hear alot of different things like you you beat on it right away. thanx guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

You definitley don't want to beat on it right away if the car is NOT tuned.

If you decide on the easier break in, you can unhook the wastegate and put in the stock injectors and break it in N/A :like: if you can't get to the tuner.

Themouse

NVM got it :https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397

0Synapse Motorsport

Bring it to your tuner, break it in on the dyno. Most important thing is to make sure the afr is correct immediately

rorik

Just keep changing your oil..you might be surprised by what it keeps coming out looking like, even after the first 400 or so miles.

However you had your block's sleeves finish honed will affect the type of break in that you should do. I would be scared to boost a new motor right away, I would probably drive it hard n/a for a while first, until the oil started coming out looking normal, at least.

0xenocron

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Synapse Motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bring it to your tuner, break it in on the dyno. Most important thing is to make sure the afr is correct immediately </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agree completely

Proper AFRs play a role in how well the rings seat in the first few moments of a freshly built motors life.

JDM_EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Synapse Motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bring it to your tuner, break it in on the dyno. Most important thing is to make sure the afr is correct immediately </TD></TR></TABLE>

The only way I'd ever do it...infact thats how I DID do it.

HiProfile

Or you can do it the way Honda did it - start it with a stock ecu map, stock header, etc. All you need is a plate bolted to the turbine housing where the chra goes in to make it truly NA, then add a filter half way along the charge piping, and run stock injectors with the stock ecu. In a perfect world you'd still have your oem manifold and could bolt that back up, but its not always the case.