DumpdEJ6

I usually hang around the N/A sub-forum but I'm thinking of dipping my toe into the dark side with a small shot of nitrous. Thinking of running a Zex dry kit with a 50-65 shot, what will I need to change in my setup? Any advice? Also considering converting to E85 for safety, but I'd prefer not to at the moment if I'd be fine running a 50 shot on 93 pump gas.

Car: 1999 Civic Hatchback

190lph Walbro pump

B18B1 block bored to 81.5mm
NPR USDM ITR pistons with teflon coating (Was shooting for 12:1, I think I'm closer to 11.5:1)
Shot-peened LS rods
Stock B18B1 crank
ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
ACL Race main and rod bearings
ITR oil pump, ported and shimmed
ITR water pump
Gates Racing timing belt
Exedy 8.8lb flywheel w/ARP bolts
ACT 6-puck sprung clutch
Innovative mounts


Head:

B16 head, stock casting
OEM valve stems
OEM valves, 5 angle valve job
ITR dual valvesprings
Crower 402-A2 cams
Cometic head gasket
GE LS-VTEC kit
GE cam gears
Blox IM matched to TB w/thermal gasket
70mm Professional Products throttle body w/thermal gasket
3" short ram w/Blox velocity stack and filter
DSM 450cc injectors
Hytech rep header
Blox adjustable test pipe
2.5" SS Yonaka exhaust

Tuned on Crome, 8200rpm redline: 199whp, 135tq

k20z1ej1

Everything looks good to go. The DSMs should support you just fine with your goal of 250ishwhp. P.S. Youre gonna love nitrous.

DumpdEJ6

Thanks for the help! Unfortunately, the kit got sold out from under me. Full Zex dry kit, used 3-4 times, with a 3/4 full bottle for $225. Looked like a steal to me, SMH I'm going to keep looking.

k20z1ej1

No problem man. and damn, that is a good deal. I paid over 750 for my zex kit, gauge, and first fill. Also, i see youre in raleigh, can you speak on JMills tuning? Im thinking of having my next car tuned there.

DumpdEJ6

Yeah I was pretty bummed. I had confirmed the purchase with the guy and was waiting on him to let me know when he was home when he called and told me that another person who had previously said he wanted it was on his way up from Fayetteville (about a 2 hour drive) and was willing to pay the full asking price of $275. I'd have taken that deal too if I were him, but it sure bummed me out, lol.

Just like every other tuner I've asked about around here, there's good and bad. It's all anecdotal evidence though, I'd say you're probably in pretty good hands. I had my build tuned by Hung at Phantasm in Raleigh, no complaints here. From what I've learned, Hung tends to tune on the safe side; which considering this was my first engine I've ever assembled (that ran lol) I was happy about that. Everyone here has "their tuner" and everyone else "sucks", so I've learned you usually just have to take the chance. But I've seen good numbers out of his tunes. The only real issue I've head with him is that he doesn't tend to tune conservatively, which may or may not be a problem for you.

DA BOSS

iTrader: (1)

^ If ATL isn't out of the question check out EBTEC.

k20z1ej1

He does seem to produce great numbers on almost every car he posts on facebook. If it was an all motor build i would be all for an "edgy" tune, but since ill be turbo this time around, im looking for a safer, reliable tune.

Its the same distance as Raleigh from me, so definitely. Did you have a car tuned there? Ive watched some of his tuning sessions on youtube. Seems legit.

DA BOSS

iTrader: (1)

^ Yeah - no-one touches my cars other than James and Jesse at EBTEC. To keep the thread on-track you can PM me if you need any info. #rockon

k20z1ej1

Thanks. I hit em up and they wont tune on crome

Civic92Turbo

Old timer coming back into the game here, I just finally finish my build and wanted your input on my set up. I plan to be on Gas (91 is the highest here in Colorado) but I am already tuned on for N/A but will get another tune on the nitrous later. My motor made 180hp but the dyno Tq reading was not reading. my question I am trying to ask is will I be safe on a 100 shot (.24 pill) DP into my motor with out starting off with a lower jet?? my kit DP is located under the manifold so I don't want to hassle with changing the pills. here are my specs

Block:
B18c1 (GSR block)
Manley rods
CP piston 10.6.1
ACL bearing
CCS Block guard
82mm bore

Head:
Skunk2 ultra street manifold
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Pro Valve Springs
Skunk2 LMA
Skunk2 Tuner 2 Cams
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Skunk2 TB
Cosmic Head gasket 82mm (.36) 3 layer

Fuel:
Grams 1000cc
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator A1000
Walbro 255

Ecu:
Hondata

DA BOSS

iTrader: (1)

Wet or dry? The short answer is yes - you don't look like you're gonna run out of fuel. Just remember colder plugs. I wouldn't go back to that dyno though until they can account for tq -- -you need to know where you're making peak tq to figure out how to get down the track the fastest and to determine where you gonna setup the 2-step.

Civic92Turbo

Sorry, I forgot to mention that was on a Wet DP set up. I am running NGK9 colder plugs, I just want not sure how safe I would be, really just wanted to be safe or wanted another opinion.

DA BOSS

iTrader: (1)

Man I've run 125 on stock GSR blocks. You're all set. The only thing you'll be testing on a kit that small is if your builder/machine shop know what their doing and if the tuner can tune nitrous. Make sure you keep consistent heat in the bottle and you should be good.

Blac joker

Ok everyone im building a b20v allmotor On nitrous tell me what you guys think and what can change to improve and what dyno numbers to expect ik its made up but just want a guess
Block
Sleeved Block 84mm
Arias Pistons 12:5:1
Eagle H-Beam Rods with arp rod bolts
ACL Bearings
Type R oil Pump
Type r water Pump

B16 Head
Gates Racing Timing Belt
ARP HeadStuds
SuperTech Valvetrain
Skunk2 Pro2s
Skunk2 Pro Cam Gears
Skunk2 Ultra Street Intake Manifold
1320 SMSP Headers 2.5 Exhaust To Greddy Muffler
RC440 Injectors
3Inch Intake
70mm TB
75 Shot Nitrous

Chance EG

Flare the exhaust out to 3" if you can: https://vibrantperformance.com/catal...oducts_id=1078

You'll probably be right around 300WHP.

Twin Cam

Might want bigger injectors. At least get some RDX injectors over the RCs.

k20z1ej1

you will definitely need bigger injectors. with a good tuner that should make 300-320whp no problem

DumpdEJ6

Ok so I'm back again. Setup hasn't changed, but my goals have.

Here's the pertinent info, or you can scroll up, I'm the first post on this page, at least on my browser.

B18b1 block
81.50 NPR USDM ITR cast pistons (11.5:1 approx)
B16 head stock casting
Crower 402 cams
ITR dual valvesprings
Made 200whp revving to 8k.

I'm going with a WON pulsoid to showerhead dist. block to 4 WON Venom nozzles DP dry.

Things I'm changing in my setup:

ID1000 injectors
Aeromotive 340lph pump
Hondata s300v3
Converting to e85

So instead of shooting for 50-65 shot on gas, I'm shooting for 100-150 shot direct port dry on e85 with Hondata. Anyone have suggestions? I've read through this entire thread from page 1, seems a lot of people were/are throwing on big shots (100+) on stock engines. Mine isn't stock, I just don't know if I'm setting too lofty of a goal for cast aftermarket pistons. I'm hoping converting to e85 will negate a lot of the potential for damage inherent in going for a larger shot.

I really want to make 300+whp and hurt some feelings.

DumpdEJ6

No one jumped in with an answer yet, but I had another thought occur to me: when doing direct port dry, should the nitrous flow be aimed directly at the intake valve or just near it? My thinking is that the valves are going to be pretty damn hot, then you're going to supercool them with nitrous...that temperature shock can't be good for them, right? Suppose I aimed the nitrous spray at the top of the intake port, maybe an inch or two from the valve. Nitrous would essentially "bounce" from the top of the port directly into the cylinder without DIRECTLY hitting the valve. Any gurus have an opinion on this?

This thread has been pretty slow lately.

k20z1ej1

Sounds awesome man, E85 and 150 hit should be a beast. Im not a guru by any measure, but I would think it would be ideal to have to nitrous spray into open space so that it atomizes effectively. I don't think.the valves will be greatly affected by the temp change.

DumpdEJ6

Yeah it's possible I'm just splitting hairs here, but I like the idea of getting the absolute best, most efficient power out of things. I haven't seen very much info on optimal nozzle placement. If I Google nozzle placement, it's just a bunch of threads about how far away from the throttle body a fogger should be, but I've seen videos where the plume hits and frost immediately forms. I just don't see that being good for the valve to go from 400 degree or whatever it is, to half of it 400 degrees and the other half freezing. I guess it can't be much of a issue since thousands of people have done it, lol.

bauergold

150 shot is going to be pushing it. It'll last awhile as long as the air/fuel and timing are correct.

Don't worry about the valves. People usually burn them up if anything.
Just put each nozzle in the middle of the intake runner and call it good.

Start with a 50-75 shot and work your way up. Retard the timing at least 2 degrees for every 50hp to start, then you can work it back in if the plugs look ok.

By the way, take everything people say about nitrous on here with a grain of salt.

DumpdEJ6

The 150 shot is the upper end of my fantasy, it'll probably never happen. I'd like to think I'll be happy with 100 extra hp. Definitely planning on starting small, I have a tuning shop here that I took the car to for the original engine break in and tune on the dyno who will be doing the tuning. I'm planning on bringing a few sets of plugs to swap out between runs. I've never read a plug in my life but I've read every forum post I can find on it and watched countless youtube videos, so we'll see how it goes. I mostly likely won't be doing anything for a few months since I'm in school and not really making any extra money. But that has been my philosophy on this car from the beginning: slow build, no corners cut.

...besides the obvious cast rotating assembly, lol. I built the car to be a daily, and now that I've got a different daily, it's starting to morph into racecar mode.

DumpdEJ6

Hate to bump this thread again since I still haven't done the nitrous yet. Might happen this summer when I get time off from school and can earn a little money. But my question is:

What's the pros and cons of nitrous discharge tubes vs nitrous nozzles? For the sake of simplicity, let's say this is related only to direct port dry applications.

k20z1ej1

I don't understand the question. Discharge tube like a blow down tube for safety?