cedric dc4

what cams is everyone rocking?

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

best cam combo is GSR intake ITR/CTR exhaust
this is what most of us use

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

person to speak to on here would be wunfstgsr
Im sure he would be able to help you with info

Northface

I just bought a JRSC + LHT Intercooler kit for my B16a2, will have it later this week.
I'm planning on running 11psi of boost, E85, Hondata S300, Toda replica header, test-pipe, 2.5" catback, adjustable cam gears, and some sort of induction kit(Is Tegiwa's Mugen replica any good for JRSC?).

I live in Europe and E85 is available in almost every gas station here, so that's not a problem.

What do you guys think of this setup?

What numbers do you think this setup will show?

Veris

Good setup. You'll need big injectors. No concrete numbers with E85, but I would GUESS around 270whp.

Northface

First time im doing something like this, but this setup will probably make enough power for now.

What intake system do you recommend? AEM short ram or the mugen airbox?

DK_4banging

I have a 2001 Integral LS with a JRSC with a 3.4 pulley i believe @ 6psi, p28 w/hondata complete stock it made 180whp..

DK_4banging

Help with my b18 jrsc plz, when i tuned the car it was at 6psi and ran good for almost 2 years, now its only pushing max 2psi, it rained recently where i live, i was at a red light when it turned green i gave it some gas the car started to wheel hop (for about 2-3sec) i let go of gas it grabbed traction so i stepped on it as the rpm reved higher i can feel how the car got Alot slower, i got a brand new boost gauge when i floor it, it jumps to 0psi then slowly works up to 1psi @ around 5k rpm then when i reach about 6.7k rpm it reaches 2psi but doesnt go past that. I changed the belts made shur they r tight like 5times lol so the belts arent slipping. Any one know what might have caused this?? Please help... Thanks

KevinEF7

^^ check for boost leaks silly

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

besides checking for vacuum or boost leaks, check to make sure you boost bypass valve is working as well, if the valve is stuck open, you wont build that much in the way of boost pressure

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

another thing to check is cracked manifold
if it wheel hoped hard
JRSC is a lot of weight on the motor to bouce around

DK_4banging

I mean i did look around and under the supercharger, its not leaking oil from the nose pulley, vacuum lines r all in place, I looked around the head looks like its on good, any other places i can check for leaks?? Sorry im kinda new to this, the boost bypass valve ur talking about does it have a vacuum line attached to it? if so I did pull the vacuum line out and put it back on like 3 times while car was running it was opening and closing, assuming its working, i put in a new wide-band as well, since it was tuned on 6psi and now its running on 2psi so now its running rich which is normal im guessing..

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

If its running rich on 2psi they didnt scale your boost tables very well. However, you need to check for leaks in the sealing surfaces when the car is running. Easiest way to do this is with a can of carb cleaner, you just spray the carb cleaner around any area where there could potentially be a gap (gasket mating surfaces typically), if there is a leak, the car will suck the cleaner in and cause it to bog slightly (its combustible so it wont hurt your car unless you drown it in it).

The boost bypass valve is the black piece on the back of the manifold, it does have a vac line going to it that should be hooked up to one of your S tube ports.

DK_4banging

thanks for helping me out... yeah that was the boost bypass valve i was checking it seemed to be working but ill check again, and yeah ill try the carb cleaner and see what happens... my car was tuned on stock injectors, exhaust, fuel pump, everything was stock, is it possible that its getting to much fuel some how which is causing it to run rich and bogging up at higher rpm? or even with that should the supercharger still be pushing 6psi??

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

what was the car tuned on? are you still using any of the JRSC equipment, like the FMU and the pressure switch relay?

DK_4banging

p28 w/hondata s100, short ram intake, and dc headers, other then that its all stock i mean Everything was stock, so no jrsc equipment...

Veris

Cold air box.

DK_4banging

^^^^ Just wondering if anyone had or herd of this or a similar problem with a JRSC not pushing full boost???

nextproject97

When you wheel hopped it's possible something broke or cracked .I'd be looking around the intake manifold ,bypass valve ,or any fittings ect... for any possible leaks to be sure nothing broke or cracked or snapped off when it wheel hopped .If the problem began right after that happened .

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

sold it

DK_4banging

Yeah ima look around see if I can find any cracks or leaks, I was wondering is it possible that when I wheel hopped the timing belt skipped like 1 tooth and now it has low compression and that's why it's only pushing 2 psi?

nextproject97

I doubt it ! Look around see what ya come up with probably broke something or cracked something when it wheel hopped .I've wheel hopped a few cars in my day HaHa never heard of jumping timing due to that

wunfstgsr

The JRSC is mechanically operated to make its boost psi. If its not boosting you have a boost leak. Either Your bypass valve is broken or damaged or you have a boost leak somewhere around the bypass rubber coupler or the jrsc manifold surface thats matted to the blower unit.

I dont like the vortech kit because of how much assembly is required, It doesnt utilize a front mount intercooler but does offer a water to air intercooler but for a whole lot more. A.c needs to be modified but iv seen a b16 make 300hp at 12psi with mild bolt ons with the water to air. Im currently working on a custom Procharger super charger. This system so far has out performed the JRSC/LHT setup i had that made 285hp @12 psi. Im curently making close to 300hp @6psi on the same motor, Im very close to retune my new setup which has a completly new diffrent setup from cams to ignition with more boost, check pg 12. Im very pleased with the performance the pro charger gives and the customer support from Mark @ Procharger.com. Free boost pulleys, idler pulleys, decals, t shirts lice frames! once the car is done ill be asking skunk2 for a cert. and pro charger for more sponsorships.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...556604&page=12



I would look into a kamakazi or LHT header or a replica of those headers. Or a tri y replica will be fine, Or just keep your header it wont make that much of a difrence unless its a real performance exhaust manifold like the LHT piece.
I would guess like mentioned around 270-290 hp but our numbers are irrelivent. Your hp numbers will depend on a whole lot more than just the setup.

If this is your first f.i setup than it will deff be enough, but if your coming from experience with higher turbo motors than dont expect to be blown away by this super charger. But at that power its a great street power band. I remember my jrsc lht setup @285hp felt pretty fun especially when i beet a modded evo on a upill tug match.

We would recomend a cold air because the jrsc creates lots of heat and you want the coldest air charge, you dont want to pull already warm/hot air from your engine bay from a short ram, Use the AEM 3'' ITR cold air intake or the Injen 3'' ITR cold air intake, they will make the most power.

I wonder has anyone fabed up a water to air intercooler with the there JRSC. Similar to the system LHT uses except you will connect the water to air intercooler unit in the intake arm and run the coolant lines to a front mount heat exchanger just like the race version LHT gives. Run the cobra water pump just like the LHT kit gives and install a resivour and Bam you got a water to air intercooler for less than $4-500 compared to the $3,000 race version LHT manifold upgrade! yes i paid $3000 for my LHT race setup! This is also the same design the vortech supercharger offers for its water to air intercooler upgrade! there's also a straight barrel design to easily plumb in between the cold air intake arm

HeikDiesel

No way. That's almost my exact setup and I make 40whp less with better exhaust system

CX-Adam

Does anyone vent their crankcase pressure to a catchcan from the back of the block while using the OEM B18C5 oil cooler clocked to the 9 o'clock position with their JRSC setup? It looks like one of the oil cooler necks will interfere with the hose fitting I'll need to install.

Pics to help describe the setup here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=153

On a similar note, I'm currently mocking up my build and it's going really well. I'm finding all sorts of little things that I need to replace. Better now than in the spring when I'll want to drive it.