***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
07-05-2018, 10:12 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Interested in hearing how long people have made them last. There are a ton of factors in longevity, so the more info the better!
- Engine block, head, and chassis model/code.
- Engine modifications. Assembled at home or at a pro shop?
- Turbo, manifold, and supporting components.
- Tuning system, and who tuned it? Tuned on the dyno or on the street?
- Power level, fuel type, and boost pressure.
- Mileage and years driven.
- Regular maintenance performed
- Primary purpose or driving style.
- What, if anything, eventually failed in the engine itself that required rebuilding or replacing it?
Here are mine:
----------------------------------------------------
- D16Y8 in '96 del sol chassis.
- Completely stock engine.
- T25 oil-cooled turbo with cast HF manifold
- 450cc DSM injectors
- Street tuned by me on Crome
- Estimated 175whp on 93 octane. 12psi.
- Turboed with 60K on the engine, drove it until 120K.
- Daily driven during the summer, and used about a dozen times for autocross.
- Checked everything regularly, changed oil every 3k miles using Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic.
- Engine was still running perfectly at 120K when I removed the turbo system and sold the car. Drove for 60,000 miles boosted with no issues. Turbo seals were shot the whole time I had it and it burned oil, but it kept on boosting anyway. I didn't beat on the car at all, never bounced rev limiter etc. but did drive spiritedly most of the time.
----------------------------------------------------
- B18C1 block, B16A head in '91 CRX HF chassis
- Wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, ARP hardware, stock sleeves
- Machining and assembly by TC Auto in Mankato, MN
- T3/T4 57 trim turbo. MGfab stainless tubular log manifold. Developing cracks in weld in WG runner.
- Hondata - originally tuned by Full Blown in Eagan, MN on the dyno. New setup street tuned by myself.
- 400whp on E85. 17psi.
- 1000cc FIC injectors
- Stock LS open diff trans
- Driven almost daily now during the summer. So far only street driven.
- Check fluids and visually inspect everything almost daily, and replace/repair anything as needed. Drain catch can once a week. Change oil and plugs every 1K miles. Once/year tranny fluid, adjust valve lash. Using Mobil 1 0w-50 synthetic and Honda MTF.
- Still running strong with 9,000 miles since the engine was built and turboed. When I bought the car it had about 7,500 miles on the rebuild with the previous dyno tune. I have added the other 1,500 miles since I retuned it myself. I take it to redline probably a couple times a day, and get into boost maybe a dozen times. Otherwise I drive it about 20 miles each way to work on mostly highway.
I should mention that when I bought it, it had NOT been maintained well. Tranny was leaking, had old fluid and ran almost dry. It failed very quickly. The turbo was also shot. Both ended up needing replaced. I also replaced the Hondata ecu that had died, clutch, flywheel, had injectors cleaned, and much much more before I got it running "reliably" again. This was all just because the previous owner beat on it and did not take care of it. The engine itself was still in good shape though.
----------------------------------------------------
- Engine block, head, and chassis model/code.
- Engine modifications. Assembled at home or at a pro shop?
- Turbo, manifold, and supporting components.
- Tuning system, and who tuned it? Tuned on the dyno or on the street?
- Power level, fuel type, and boost pressure.
- Mileage and years driven.
- Regular maintenance performed
- Primary purpose or driving style.
- What, if anything, eventually failed in the engine itself that required rebuilding or replacing it?
Here are mine:
----------------------------------------------------
- D16Y8 in '96 del sol chassis.
- Completely stock engine.
- T25 oil-cooled turbo with cast HF manifold
- 450cc DSM injectors
- Street tuned by me on Crome
- Estimated 175whp on 93 octane. 12psi.
- Turboed with 60K on the engine, drove it until 120K.
- Daily driven during the summer, and used about a dozen times for autocross.
- Checked everything regularly, changed oil every 3k miles using Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic.
- Engine was still running perfectly at 120K when I removed the turbo system and sold the car. Drove for 60,000 miles boosted with no issues. Turbo seals were shot the whole time I had it and it burned oil, but it kept on boosting anyway. I didn't beat on the car at all, never bounced rev limiter etc. but did drive spiritedly most of the time.
----------------------------------------------------
- B18C1 block, B16A head in '91 CRX HF chassis
- Wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, ARP hardware, stock sleeves
- Machining and assembly by TC Auto in Mankato, MN
- T3/T4 57 trim turbo. MGfab stainless tubular log manifold. Developing cracks in weld in WG runner.
- Hondata - originally tuned by Full Blown in Eagan, MN on the dyno. New setup street tuned by myself.
- 400whp on E85. 17psi.
- 1000cc FIC injectors
- Stock LS open diff trans
- Driven almost daily now during the summer. So far only street driven.
- Check fluids and visually inspect everything almost daily, and replace/repair anything as needed. Drain catch can once a week. Change oil and plugs every 1K miles. Once/year tranny fluid, adjust valve lash. Using Mobil 1 0w-50 synthetic and Honda MTF.
- Still running strong with 9,000 miles since the engine was built and turboed. When I bought the car it had about 7,500 miles on the rebuild with the previous dyno tune. I have added the other 1,500 miles since I retuned it myself. I take it to redline probably a couple times a day, and get into boost maybe a dozen times. Otherwise I drive it about 20 miles each way to work on mostly highway.
I should mention that when I bought it, it had NOT been maintained well. Tranny was leaking, had old fluid and ran almost dry. It failed very quickly. The turbo was also shot. Both ended up needing replaced. I also replaced the Hondata ecu that had died, clutch, flywheel, had injectors cleaned, and much much more before I got it running "reliably" again. This was all just because the previous owner beat on it and did not take care of it. The engine itself was still in good shape though.
----------------------------------------------------
Last edited by 2x0; 07-06-2018 at 08:14 AM.
07-05-2018, 02:04 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Could be a good thread. Problem is not many long time users post their builds anymore. Starts a new build or sells current setup. Anyway....
Rod/piston b16a short block professional built. Head built by me. Dyno tune by pure tuning multiple times for refresh tunes. Currently at 496whp/3++wtq Parameters set by me for my street and part throttle likings. Milage is maybe 2k miles a year. But its 2k miles of shenannigans. With between 22-26psi at times. Headgasket changed once in like seven years.
Orginally an afi turbo setup purchased from the manufactor in 2009. Reworked with some go autoworks parts. Changed the fmic, becuase the 18x6x3.5 garret core originally in the kit wasnt cooling my setup good enough at the time. IATs would easily shoot up too 150. Other than that, no other fitment issues, or poor quality. My turbos have been changed like three different times for experience and testing purposes. But none showed signs of failure within two year periods.
afi ramhorn
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
tga 5857 turbo
go autoworks gt500 fmic
gsc n1 cams
hondata s300, CPR, BBG
ID1000s
Rod/piston b16a short block professional built. Head built by me. Dyno tune by pure tuning multiple times for refresh tunes. Currently at 496whp/3++wtq Parameters set by me for my street and part throttle likings. Milage is maybe 2k miles a year. But its 2k miles of shenannigans. With between 22-26psi at times. Headgasket changed once in like seven years.
Orginally an afi turbo setup purchased from the manufactor in 2009. Reworked with some go autoworks parts. Changed the fmic, becuase the 18x6x3.5 garret core originally in the kit wasnt cooling my setup good enough at the time. IATs would easily shoot up too 150. Other than that, no other fitment issues, or poor quality. My turbos have been changed like three different times for experience and testing purposes. But none showed signs of failure within two year periods.
afi ramhorn
skunk2 pro series intake manifold
tga 5857 turbo
go autoworks gt500 fmic
gsc n1 cams
hondata s300, CPR, BBG
ID1000s
Last edited by ls joker; 07-05-2018 at 05:31 PM.
07-05-2018, 03:39 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Would also be worth mentioning what manifold is being used, and how they hold up.
07-05-2018, 04:21 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Added this to my original post. Good point. Also added info about how I've maintained the cars.
Last edited by 2x0; 07-06-2018 at 03:24 AM.
07-05-2018, 05:21 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
07-06-2018, 07:39 AM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
1993 Civic Hatch CX
most of the interior except back seats
jdm B16A block and crank
block guard
wiseco 9.0:1
Eagle H-beams
GS-R cams
RC 750cc
Supertech springs and retainers
crappy OBX ramhorn manifold (constantly had to re-weld parts because it kept cracking in different places)
LS trans with all stock gearing, open diff
street tuned on Neptune
dyno'ed 330whp @ 14psi on straight 93 pump
I managed a best E.T. of 11.74@117mph with this setup on pump gas with a best 1.59 60' on 22" M&H slicks
driven Daily to and from work (53 miles one way) 5 days a week for two years, then change jobs and only had to drive about 6-7 miles to and from work.
always used Amsoil 5w30 full synthetic and got oil changed every 2,000-2,500 miles, depending on how hard I drove it.
I only took it apart because I was having a small electrical issue and ended up buying a JDM GS-R and sleeved it.
as far as I know, that little engine is still running strong for the guy I sold it to about 6 years ago, but I'm not 100% sure on that since I haven't actually seen him in almost 5 years.
I would guess that I put somewhere around 45-50K miles on that setup. still have the turbo and it is in absolutely GREAT shape. which is why I love Garrett turbos so much.
most of the interior except back seats
jdm B16A block and crank
block guard
wiseco 9.0:1
Eagle H-beams
GS-R cams
RC 750cc
Supertech springs and retainers
crappy OBX ramhorn manifold (constantly had to re-weld parts because it kept cracking in different places)
LS trans with all stock gearing, open diff
street tuned on Neptune
dyno'ed 330whp @ 14psi on straight 93 pump
I managed a best E.T. of 11.74@117mph with this setup on pump gas with a best 1.59 60' on 22" M&H slicks
driven Daily to and from work (53 miles one way) 5 days a week for two years, then change jobs and only had to drive about 6-7 miles to and from work.
always used Amsoil 5w30 full synthetic and got oil changed every 2,000-2,500 miles, depending on how hard I drove it.
I only took it apart because I was having a small electrical issue and ended up buying a JDM GS-R and sleeved it.
as far as I know, that little engine is still running strong for the guy I sold it to about 6 years ago, but I'm not 100% sure on that since I haven't actually seen him in almost 5 years.
I would guess that I put somewhere around 45-50K miles on that setup. still have the turbo and it is in absolutely GREAT shape. which is why I love Garrett turbos so much.
08-05-2018, 08:30 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
- Engine block, head, and chassis model/code.
block was a jdm b18c, head was a jdm b16...initially had it in a 97 EK with modified front end, then transferred the swap to a 99 EM1 a few years afterwards
- Engine modifications. Assembled at home or at a pro shop?
mods - Sleeved and bored block 84.5 mm bore, 10:1 Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, King racing bearings (mains and rods) moroso oil pan, purchased-new Type R crankshaft, gates timing belt, stock oil and water pumps, cometic headgasket, arp headstuds, ported & polished head, stock valvetrain & cams, skunk2 IM, skunk2 cam gears, skunk2 vtec solenoid, 70mm throttle body, 1000cc injectors, AEM fuel rail and FPR, cold spark plugs, NGK ignition wires,
- Turbo, manifold, and supporting components.
turbo was a Precision T60-1/T3 hybrid, manifold was regular cast-iron ebay manifold with Turbonetics wastegate, eBay intercooler piping pre-fabbed for civics, with eBay intercooler, and genuine Greddy BOV.
- Tuning system, and who tuned it? Tuned on the dyno or on the street?
Hondata s300 tuned by me and the butt-dyno/street tuned.
- Power level, fuel type, and boost pressure.
Churnhed out 450 hp on 93 octane pump gas. 13-14 lbs
- Mileage and years driven.
had the set-up for 3 years maybe. unknown on mileage...i had several cars and would switch em up.
- Regular maintenance performed
oil changes and spark plugs. plugs came courtesy of Jung Performance in Oakland Park. They actually STOCK the plugs and sell them for $2.00 each!
- Primary purpose or driving style.
primary purpose - to have a fast car. I built it so it could serve the same purpose of a gun or condom, where speed was concerned: better to have it and not need it, than to need it and NOT have it!
- What, if anything, eventually failed in the engine itself that required rebuilding or replacing it?
nothing failed internally. engine was built sturdy and strong, using quality internals and taking my time. never opened that engine again, and sold it that way
- Insert other stuff here
Mishimoto 1st gen radiator. (i bought it when they first started making them and it only cost me $55. compare that to what they sell for NOW!) Transmission was custom built by me. Type R 1st and 2nd, LS 3rd, 4th and 5th. GSR Countershaft spline (ordered brand new from Honda in Georgia). Differential was from a JDM Type R. (limited Slip). You have to use the GSR countershaft spline for the JDM Type R diff and ring gear to mesh together and properly work. ACT clutch set-up with 8 lb flywheel. Stock axles. Stock interior except the s2000 cluster installed by me with Speedo healer and other components to make it work property, JDM Type R steering wheel with red Honda logo. Stock console, mats, armrest, backseat. Del Sol Si-R uni-color front seats (no rips or wear whatsoever). Double DIN touchscreen radio. Custom 3-inch downpipe, no catalytic converter, 3 inch exhaust piping, Forza Gold Exhaust end, PLX wideband, Autometer boost and Oil Pressure Gauge. Also had the Apexi AVC-R, boost controller (loooved the look). I think that's about it. I sold the car to some kid for $5k and he crashed it the next week. He also got scammed out of a lot of the parts. He didnt know anything about building Hondas, only driving cars. So this guy he knows told him that the Hondata was no good and replaced it with a chipped ecu, the tranny was no good and replaced it with a stock tranny, the radiator was no good, and replaced it with some chinese junk ebay radiator, the skunk2 vtec solenoid was no good, and replaced it with stock. Funny thing is, all the parts that was "no good" that the guy replaced, he took them and put them on his OWN car....
block was a jdm b18c, head was a jdm b16...initially had it in a 97 EK with modified front end, then transferred the swap to a 99 EM1 a few years afterwards
- Engine modifications. Assembled at home or at a pro shop?
mods - Sleeved and bored block 84.5 mm bore, 10:1 Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, King racing bearings (mains and rods) moroso oil pan, purchased-new Type R crankshaft, gates timing belt, stock oil and water pumps, cometic headgasket, arp headstuds, ported & polished head, stock valvetrain & cams, skunk2 IM, skunk2 cam gears, skunk2 vtec solenoid, 70mm throttle body, 1000cc injectors, AEM fuel rail and FPR, cold spark plugs, NGK ignition wires,
- Turbo, manifold, and supporting components.
turbo was a Precision T60-1/T3 hybrid, manifold was regular cast-iron ebay manifold with Turbonetics wastegate, eBay intercooler piping pre-fabbed for civics, with eBay intercooler, and genuine Greddy BOV.
- Tuning system, and who tuned it? Tuned on the dyno or on the street?
Hondata s300 tuned by me and the butt-dyno/street tuned.
- Power level, fuel type, and boost pressure.
Churnhed out 450 hp on 93 octane pump gas. 13-14 lbs
- Mileage and years driven.
had the set-up for 3 years maybe. unknown on mileage...i had several cars and would switch em up.
- Regular maintenance performed
oil changes and spark plugs. plugs came courtesy of Jung Performance in Oakland Park. They actually STOCK the plugs and sell them for $2.00 each!
- Primary purpose or driving style.
primary purpose - to have a fast car. I built it so it could serve the same purpose of a gun or condom, where speed was concerned: better to have it and not need it, than to need it and NOT have it!
- What, if anything, eventually failed in the engine itself that required rebuilding or replacing it?
nothing failed internally. engine was built sturdy and strong, using quality internals and taking my time. never opened that engine again, and sold it that way
- Insert other stuff here
Mishimoto 1st gen radiator. (i bought it when they first started making them and it only cost me $55. compare that to what they sell for NOW!) Transmission was custom built by me. Type R 1st and 2nd, LS 3rd, 4th and 5th. GSR Countershaft spline (ordered brand new from Honda in Georgia). Differential was from a JDM Type R. (limited Slip). You have to use the GSR countershaft spline for the JDM Type R diff and ring gear to mesh together and properly work. ACT clutch set-up with 8 lb flywheel. Stock axles. Stock interior except the s2000 cluster installed by me with Speedo healer and other components to make it work property, JDM Type R steering wheel with red Honda logo. Stock console, mats, armrest, backseat. Del Sol Si-R uni-color front seats (no rips or wear whatsoever). Double DIN touchscreen radio. Custom 3-inch downpipe, no catalytic converter, 3 inch exhaust piping, Forza Gold Exhaust end, PLX wideband, Autometer boost and Oil Pressure Gauge. Also had the Apexi AVC-R, boost controller (loooved the look). I think that's about it. I sold the car to some kid for $5k and he crashed it the next week. He also got scammed out of a lot of the parts. He didnt know anything about building Hondas, only driving cars. So this guy he knows told him that the Hondata was no good and replaced it with a chipped ecu, the tranny was no good and replaced it with a stock tranny, the radiator was no good, and replaced it with some chinese junk ebay radiator, the skunk2 vtec solenoid was no good, and replaced it with stock. Funny thing is, all the parts that was "no good" that the guy replaced, he took them and put them on his OWN car....
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08-05-2018, 11:27 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Just a reference guide for people to better understand what it takes to build a reliable turbo setup, and how long they typically last at different power levels.
08-05-2018, 02:55 PM
#10
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
I blew a motor so i needed to get a motor in the car to drive it to my new house
pulled out my bag of used bearings. Mixed and matched bearings to get good tolenrances on the rods and mains. Ball honed the cylinders. Installed new rings. felpro head gasket
ive been waiting for the motor to blow for about 2 years now and she just doesnt want to yet. I race at 2 small tracks near my house and usually stay on the track for 15 min at a time. Maybe have 7-8 events on this motor. I changed the oil once and that was to fix a leak on my oil pan gasket and baffle the stock pan.
Turbo manifold built by me
tuned by me
lsv with gsr head stock cams
18g turbo
i run it anywhere from 10-14 psi
butt dyno feels like 260-280whp
pulled out my bag of used bearings. Mixed and matched bearings to get good tolenrances on the rods and mains. Ball honed the cylinders. Installed new rings. felpro head gasket
ive been waiting for the motor to blow for about 2 years now and she just doesnt want to yet. I race at 2 small tracks near my house and usually stay on the track for 15 min at a time. Maybe have 7-8 events on this motor. I changed the oil once and that was to fix a leak on my oil pan gasket and baffle the stock pan.
Turbo manifold built by me
tuned by me
lsv with gsr head stock cams
18g turbo
i run it anywhere from 10-14 psi
butt dyno feels like 260-280whp
08-05-2018, 03:46 PM
#11
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
I'm not trying to be a wet blanket. I'm really not. But what you're attempting is redundant and really hasn't changed in 15 years from the last 3-4 threads of this type were made. You're just going to get a lot of subjective interpretation and sob stories.
08-05-2018, 04:13 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
True it’s been covered many times with theoretical info, but I have yet to come across many real world examples of engine longevity, much less compiled in one place. Reading those sob stories might help some people make smarter decisions when venturing into their first turbo build.
08-05-2018, 04:56 PM
#13
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
True it’s been covered many times with theoretical info, but I have yet to come across many real world examples of engine longevity, much less compiled in one place. Reading those sob stories might help some people make smarter decisions when venturing into their first turbo build.
My proof is really myself. ( I'm sure I can count on my hand the others like myself..only a couple like AZ_CIVIC and myself even come on here anymore. We're a breed no longer interested in assisting as much for the reasons I mentioned...which is why you're finding it difficult find "the proof" you seek on this or any forum lately)
myself, I'm On the same block, pistons, rods, bearings, (sans one journal bearings in 2006) and GE Sleeves since 2003. 54 Events, two cylinder heads, I'm creating a report to Golden Eagle on FB next week.
I'm only upgrading my current setup internals because I don't believe in blowing up stuff to find an excuse to rebuild.
The formula is simple. I can even repeat it.. ( a new "Project Ghost" thread will be coming )You just have to put it together and make sure you don't B.S. around or subject yourself to opportunities to "ice-skate"..
Again, sorry for being a "wet blanket"...
08-07-2018, 06:15 AM
#14
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
I highly doubt it. It hasn't happened in over 12 years on this forum., and history tends to too easily to repeat itself.There is actual info, and a reasonable actual formula that's been proven to do so. Too many newcomers continue to perceive that they can ice-skate uphill to success. It cycles every 4-5 years. You're just not used to being around it.
My proof is really myself. ( I'm sure I can count on my hand the others like myself..only a couple like AZ_CIVIC and myself even come on here anymore. We're a breed no longer interested in assisting as much for the reasons I mentioned...which is why you're finding it difficult find "the proof" you seek on this or any forum lately)
myself, I'm On the same block, pistons, rods, bearings, (sans one journal bearings in 2006) and GE Sleeves since 2003. 54 Events, two cylinder heads, I'm creating a report to Golden Eagle on FB next week.
I'm only upgrading my current setup internals because I don't believe in blowing up stuff to find an excuse to rebuild.
The formula is simple. I can even repeat it.. ( a new "Project Ghost" thread will be coming )You just have to put it together and make sure you don't B.S. around or subject yourself to opportunities to "ice-skate"..
Again, sorry for being a "wet blanket"...
My proof is really myself. ( I'm sure I can count on my hand the others like myself..only a couple like AZ_CIVIC and myself even come on here anymore. We're a breed no longer interested in assisting as much for the reasons I mentioned...which is why you're finding it difficult find "the proof" you seek on this or any forum lately)
myself, I'm On the same block, pistons, rods, bearings, (sans one journal bearings in 2006) and GE Sleeves since 2003. 54 Events, two cylinder heads, I'm creating a report to Golden Eagle on FB next week.
I'm only upgrading my current setup internals because I don't believe in blowing up stuff to find an excuse to rebuild.
The formula is simple. I can even repeat it.. ( a new "Project Ghost" thread will be coming )You just have to put it together and make sure you don't B.S. around or subject yourself to opportunities to "ice-skate"..
Again, sorry for being a "wet blanket"...
08-07-2018, 06:31 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Or just for fun to see who has put a sh*t ton of miles on their setup. For example I never would have guessed that my stock Y8 with a leaky turbo and street tune would have lasted 60K, but it did. Just goes to show what these engines are capable of.
08-07-2018, 10:14 AM
#16
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Here is a combo that worked for me many years if you want real world and I will even dial it down to a very streetable application. This Setup below got me 700whp and thousands of miles of driving with zero issues, actually this block setup lasted 5 years up until around 1100whp finally took it's toll, even though the block blew up and I mean blew the F up at almost 11,000 RPMS the head was still good even with the piston hitting the head. I milled the head and replaced 3 slightly bent valves which is a testament to how good the right valve train is as well.
You could easily dial the fuel system down a bit and go with a little smaller turbo and make well into the 500whp range and DD this car for years and years. The parts list below is what can get you something reliable that would last years oh and the fact that the motor was built by a professional who does this everyday for a living which is probably more important than just the parts.
This is all real world abuse and pushing the limits until destruction. Also this simple list below got me a car that ran a 10.1 that I drove on the streets, to the track and home. Obviously though as I got more into Drag only and he parts list got bigger and bigger the car became less of a street car but the thing did move.
GSR block: Golden Eagle Sleeved, 84mm bore, 9:1 Compression CP's, Turbo Tuff Rods, ACL Bearing, GSR Crank.
Head GSR: CNC Performance CNC head, Ferrea 80lb valve springs, Ferrea Retainers/Seat locators, Ferrea Valve Guides, Ferrea 6000 Comp Plus intake and exhaust valves stock sized, and Ferrea locks. Type R intake and Exhaust Cams.
Intake: Edelbrock Victor X manifold total stock ports no work done to it and Type R throttle body.
Fuel: ID2000's, 2 bosch 044 pumps upgraded fuel lines
Transmission: Comp Twin, Stock GSR Trans with Mfactory LSD and Synchrotech Carbon synchros and DSS 2.9 axles
Turbo Setup: Ram Horn, T3T61 Garrett Journal Bearing turbo, 2.5 inch charge pipe and Garrett Core Intercooler, Tial 44mm Wastgate/Tial BOV
You could easily dial the fuel system down a bit and go with a little smaller turbo and make well into the 500whp range and DD this car for years and years. The parts list below is what can get you something reliable that would last years oh and the fact that the motor was built by a professional who does this everyday for a living which is probably more important than just the parts.
This is all real world abuse and pushing the limits until destruction. Also this simple list below got me a car that ran a 10.1 that I drove on the streets, to the track and home. Obviously though as I got more into Drag only and he parts list got bigger and bigger the car became less of a street car but the thing did move.
GSR block: Golden Eagle Sleeved, 84mm bore, 9:1 Compression CP's, Turbo Tuff Rods, ACL Bearing, GSR Crank.
Head GSR: CNC Performance CNC head, Ferrea 80lb valve springs, Ferrea Retainers/Seat locators, Ferrea Valve Guides, Ferrea 6000 Comp Plus intake and exhaust valves stock sized, and Ferrea locks. Type R intake and Exhaust Cams.
Intake: Edelbrock Victor X manifold total stock ports no work done to it and Type R throttle body.
Fuel: ID2000's, 2 bosch 044 pumps upgraded fuel lines
Transmission: Comp Twin, Stock GSR Trans with Mfactory LSD and Synchrotech Carbon synchros and DSS 2.9 axles
Turbo Setup: Ram Horn, T3T61 Garrett Journal Bearing turbo, 2.5 inch charge pipe and Garrett Core Intercooler, Tial 44mm Wastgate/Tial BOV
08-07-2018, 10:52 AM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
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Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
Here is a combo that worked for me many years if you want real world and I will even dial it down to a very streetable application. This Setup below got me 700whp and thousands of miles of driving with zero issues, actually this block setup lasted 5 years up until around 1100whp finally took it's toll, even though the block blew up and I mean blew the F up at almost 11,000 RPMS the head was still good even with the piston hitting the head. I milled the head and replaced 3 slightly bent valves which is a testament to how good the right valve train is as well.
You could easily dial the fuel system down a bit and go with a little smaller turbo and make well into the 500whp range and DD this car for years and years. The parts list below is what can get you something reliable that would last years oh and the fact that the motor was built by a professional who does this everyday for a living which is probably more important than just the parts.
This is all real world abuse and pushing the limits until destruction. Also this simple list below got me a car that ran a 10.1 that I drove on the streets, to the track and home. Obviously though as I got more into Drag only and he parts list got bigger and bigger the car became less of a street car but the thing did move.
GSR block: Golden Eagle Sleeved, 84mm bore, 9:1 Compression CP's, Turbo Tuff Rods, ACL Bearing, GSR Crank.
Head GSR: CNC Performance CNC head, Ferrea 80lb valve springs, Ferrea Retainers/Seat locators, Ferrea Valve Guides, Ferrea 6000 Comp Plus intake and exhaust valves stock sized, and Ferrea locks. Type R intake and Exhaust Cams.
Intake: Edelbrock Victor X manifold total stock ports no work done to it and Type R throttle body.
Fuel: ID2000's, 2 bosch 044 pumps upgraded fuel lines
Transmission: Comp Twin, Stock GSR Trans with Mfactory LSD and Synchrotech Carbon synchros and DSS 2.9 axles
Turbo Setup: Ram Horn, T3T61 Garrett Journal Bearing turbo, 2.5 inch charge pipe and Garrett Core Intercooler, Tial 44mm Wastgate/Tial BOV
You could easily dial the fuel system down a bit and go with a little smaller turbo and make well into the 500whp range and DD this car for years and years. The parts list below is what can get you something reliable that would last years oh and the fact that the motor was built by a professional who does this everyday for a living which is probably more important than just the parts.
This is all real world abuse and pushing the limits until destruction. Also this simple list below got me a car that ran a 10.1 that I drove on the streets, to the track and home. Obviously though as I got more into Drag only and he parts list got bigger and bigger the car became less of a street car but the thing did move.
GSR block: Golden Eagle Sleeved, 84mm bore, 9:1 Compression CP's, Turbo Tuff Rods, ACL Bearing, GSR Crank.
Head GSR: CNC Performance CNC head, Ferrea 80lb valve springs, Ferrea Retainers/Seat locators, Ferrea Valve Guides, Ferrea 6000 Comp Plus intake and exhaust valves stock sized, and Ferrea locks. Type R intake and Exhaust Cams.
Intake: Edelbrock Victor X manifold total stock ports no work done to it and Type R throttle body.
Fuel: ID2000's, 2 bosch 044 pumps upgraded fuel lines
Transmission: Comp Twin, Stock GSR Trans with Mfactory LSD and Synchrotech Carbon synchros and DSS 2.9 axles
Turbo Setup: Ram Horn, T3T61 Garrett Journal Bearing turbo, 2.5 inch charge pipe and Garrett Core Intercooler, Tial 44mm Wastgate/Tial BOV
Just curious.. I'm unsure how long ago this was, but looking back would you go with higher compression? Or is that 9:1 really helping with longevity/reliability?
08-07-2018, 11:42 AM
#18
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
9:1 was just something that my tuner and engine builder had success with 8 or 9 years ago but know I am 10:1. Some people go higher but the higher you go the less room you have for error.
08-07-2018, 03:46 PM
#19
Re: ***The Official "How many miles on your Turbo B or D series?" Thread***
So, short answer, no. Going lower didn't really help with longevity/reliability. I don't know about AZ_CIVIC's tuner, but mine was/is perfectly comfortable doing 10.0:1-11.0:1. But found no point in going higher. Especially when software/hardware choices were limited when A) Aftermarket companies didn't offer separate thicker wrist pin options with higher compression pistons as they did the lower ones, and B) you didn't have a MOTEC budget.
I was at 9.8:1 back in 2004-2006. Mainly from the change in cylinder head. It was still using a 9.0:1 piston at the time.
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