$5000 daily driver build...
02-04-2004, 02:27 PM
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$5000 daily driver build...
ok, heres the deal... im getting something between 7500 and 8000 for my Z.
I want to buy a hatch/delsol whatever to drop a beastly engine into it.
i figure 5000 for the engine, because i'll need 2500-3000 for the cost of the car, wheels/tires, springs, and misc parts here and there.
i dont want to be too vague, but im trying to find the best engine for the $5000...
i definatly want turbo, but i dont know what engine goes the best with it..
i've looked into d-series
i think i could squeeze out a b18c5 (itr) and a turbo setup for that much, but i was told thats not the boost engine to go with...
any ideas guys, thats for helping. i tried a few searches, but there is just soo much stuff.
I want to buy a hatch/delsol whatever to drop a beastly engine into it.
i figure 5000 for the engine, because i'll need 2500-3000 for the cost of the car, wheels/tires, springs, and misc parts here and there.
i dont want to be too vague, but im trying to find the best engine for the $5000...
i definatly want turbo, but i dont know what engine goes the best with it..
i've looked into d-series
i think i could squeeze out a b18c5 (itr) and a turbo setup for that much, but i was told thats not the boost engine to go with...
any ideas guys, thats for helping. i tried a few searches, but there is just soo much stuff.
02-04-2004, 02:33 PM
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Re: $5000 daily driver build... (jbell)
That definitely isn't the motor to go with if you want boost. I'd go with a LS motor. With $5,000 you can probably build the bottom end and piece together a decent kit
02-04-2004, 02:36 PM
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If your on a budget there is nothing wrong with a boosted Dseries! There are some guys here on HT that have been very successful with them. My next choice would be a b18b due to the compression and torwue it can put down stock! The real question is, In the end how much power are you looking to produce?
02-04-2004, 02:49 PM
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Re: (DroppedGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DroppedGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your on a budget there is nothing wrong with a boosted Dseries! There are some guys here on HT that have been very successful with them. My next choice would be a b18b due to the compression and torwue it can put down stock! The real question is, In the end how much power are you looking to produce? </TD></TR></TABLE>
well, i never dobuted d series, but i have a bit more than what a normal d-series budget is.
in the end, i want to make as much as possible... 300hp would be nasty.
well, i never dobuted d series, but i have a bit more than what a normal d-series budget is.
in the end, i want to make as much as possible... 300hp would be nasty.
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02-04-2004, 03:17 PM
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Re: (nevin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nevin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c period.</TD></TR></TABLE>
from the gsr?
from the gsr?
02-04-2004, 03:20 PM
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Re: (Mark817teg)
build from scratch.....find a block and head and sho on .......use some forged pistons and some dartons adn peice together a nice kit....whether it be a b18c1 or a b18b....either can produce the numbers you are looking for for a low budget kit.....like some one said makes ure to runa hondata or an AEM.....well worth the extra money.....if you need anything PM me i can get some good deals
02-04-2004, 03:35 PM
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Re: (jbell)
D Series all the way. I'm biased.
But seriously if you are going from scratch you can build a pretty nasty D series and a turbo setup w/ standalone with 5k
These are rough estimates
d16z6 w/ tranny $600
Sleeving $800
cp pistons w/ eagle rods $800
precision turbo $650
precision intercooler $300
sorry im getting lazy with the pricing
tial wg $200
lovefab shorty mani $250
Greddy type s bov $160
Charge piping $150
misc lines, couplings etc $200
Hondata s200 w/boost and chipped p28 $600
~$4510 ...
this is a very rough guide. Im pretty sure with this setup in a hatch 12's are very possible.
But seriously if you are going from scratch you can build a pretty nasty D series and a turbo setup w/ standalone with 5k
These are rough estimates
d16z6 w/ tranny $600
Sleeving $800
cp pistons w/ eagle rods $800
precision turbo $650
precision intercooler $300
sorry im getting lazy with the pricing
tial wg $200
lovefab shorty mani $250
Greddy type s bov $160
Charge piping $150
misc lines, couplings etc $200
Hondata s200 w/boost and chipped p28 $600
~$4510 ...
this is a very rough guide. Im pretty sure with this setup in a hatch 12's are very possible.
02-04-2004, 03:47 PM
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Re: (99n00sis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99n00sis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with the gsr or b16, definately go vtec tho </TD></TR></TABLE>
doesn't the vtec not go well with the boost?
</TD></TR></TABLE>doesn't the vtec not go well with the boost?
02-04-2004, 04:22 PM
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Re: (jbell)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
doesn't the vtec not go well with the boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
all about the 2ning buddy :-)
doesn't the vtec not go well with the boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>
all about the 2ning buddy :-)
02-04-2004, 04:54 PM
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Re: (dwchkypmp20)
so...
b18c1 from a gsr, turbo kit... maybe greddy?
and what.. that should be good for how many hp without opening up the block?
b18c1 from a gsr, turbo kit... maybe greddy?
and what.. that should be good for how many hp without opening up the block?
02-04-2004, 04:56 PM
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Re: (jbell)
you can def make 300 on some higher psi but on a safe note....say 10 psi(well tuned) you are bound for the 260-280 range.....like i said in an earlier post, talk to me before you purchase anything, i offer some good deals
02-04-2004, 05:26 PM
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Re: (Mpir3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got my b16a swap for $1900, the total cost of all my turbo **** (clutch, hondata...everything) was ~2800. thats under $5k. 307wph 212wtq </TD></TR></TABLE>
what psi? how reliable? any internal work?
</TD></TR></TABLE>what psi? how reliable? any internal work?
02-04-2004, 05:30 PM
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Re: (jbell)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jbell »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what psi? how reliable? any internal work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
14psi, only drove the car for a few months before winter..If it wasn't winter im sure the car would be fine for everyday driving. Stock internals with ARP Headstuds and Inline pro 2mm headgasket to lower compression to ~9:1.
what psi? how reliable? any internal work?</TD></TR></TABLE>
14psi, only drove the car for a few months before winter..If it wasn't winter im sure the car would be fine for everyday driving. Stock internals with ARP Headstuds and Inline pro 2mm headgasket to lower compression to ~9:1.
02-04-2004, 05:36 PM
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In sort, a "built" B18c1 is the best engine over all.
Im going to have to disagree with the B16a swap being "all the way to go!" because yea, you can put down nice hp numbers but you are limited by the amount of displacement and not to mention YOU DONT HAVE ANY ******* TORQUE! you can like your b16's but that would be my last choice seeing it has no torque and basically asks to be reved high to get good power.
B18c1's will cut into that $5000 pretty quickly so i suggest the following
Find a beat B18a/b that someone wants to get rid of b/c of for cheap but just make sure the piston walls arent fucked. Go buy some nice mid 9 compression pistons, some eagle rods, get some ARP head studs, buy a B16a vtec head and all that good stuff. All in all if you do it yourself, you can get all that for $2000.
With $3000 to build a turbo kit, you can really make something sweet. A nice equal length manifold with a hybrid turbo or those "magic" Precisions. some 550 or even 720 injectors. man your setup could have mid to low 12s written all over it. I would go for a DIY editor to save a bunch of cash and get an LCD or something. no traction sucks.
Im going to have to disagree with the B16a swap being "all the way to go!" because yea, you can put down nice hp numbers but you are limited by the amount of displacement and not to mention YOU DONT HAVE ANY ******* TORQUE! you can like your b16's but that would be my last choice seeing it has no torque and basically asks to be reved high to get good power.
B18c1's will cut into that $5000 pretty quickly so i suggest the following
Find a beat B18a/b that someone wants to get rid of b/c of for cheap but just make sure the piston walls arent fucked. Go buy some nice mid 9 compression pistons, some eagle rods, get some ARP head studs, buy a B16a vtec head and all that good stuff. All in all if you do it yourself, you can get all that for $2000.
With $3000 to build a turbo kit, you can really make something sweet. A nice equal length manifold with a hybrid turbo or those "magic" Precisions. some 550 or even 720 injectors. man your setup could have mid to low 12s written all over it. I would go for a DIY editor to save a bunch of cash and get an LCD or something. no traction sucks.
02-04-2004, 06:00 PM
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Re: (b18b1hmtlove)
[QUOTE=b18b1hmtlove]In sort, a "built" B18c1 is the best engine over all.
Im going to have to disagree with the B16a swap being "all the way to go!" because yea, you can put down nice hp numbers but you are limited by the amount of displacement and not to mention YOU DONT HAVE ANY ******* TORQUE! you can like your b16's but that would be my last choice seeing it has no torque and basically asks to be reved high to get good power.
QUOTE]
Show me a b18c1 that is making 300whp and an excessive amount of tq more than 212. Yes i know a b18c1 will make a little more tq but is it worth the $1000+ difference in teh cost of the swap?
I dont' think my tq curve is too bad for a shitty b16a
Im going to have to disagree with the B16a swap being "all the way to go!" because yea, you can put down nice hp numbers but you are limited by the amount of displacement and not to mention YOU DONT HAVE ANY ******* TORQUE! you can like your b16's but that would be my last choice seeing it has no torque and basically asks to be reved high to get good power.
QUOTE]
Show me a b18c1 that is making 300whp and an excessive amount of tq more than 212. Yes i know a b18c1 will make a little more tq but is it worth the $1000+ difference in teh cost of the swap?
I dont' think my tq curve is too bad for a shitty b16a
02-04-2004, 06:11 PM
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imagine that same 14psi on a B18b1 though. you would be producing maybe 280 whp but the torque would almost be matching. make quite a difference.
If you like it, thats great for you. But i think of the B16 as the bastard child of the B series. Personally i would rather torque over whp and high reving any day of the week. I guess thats why honda made serveral engines.
Also at 14psi on a B18c1 i would be looking for well into the 300whp and atleast 240 ft lbs of torque. So all in all for an extra $1000 i wouldnt buy a GSR. i would go ls/vtec but i was just saying what i thought was all around the best engine.
like i said, to each his own. btw that graph is weird to look at with that line down the middle and the torque on one side and the whp on the other. it also could be the cold meds im on making me groggy. anyway, my vote still goes for the ls/vtec.
If you like it, thats great for you. But i think of the B16 as the bastard child of the B series. Personally i would rather torque over whp and high reving any day of the week. I guess thats why honda made serveral engines.
Also at 14psi on a B18c1 i would be looking for well into the 300whp and atleast 240 ft lbs of torque. So all in all for an extra $1000 i wouldnt buy a GSR. i would go ls/vtec but i was just saying what i thought was all around the best engine.
like i said, to each his own. btw that graph is weird to look at with that line down the middle and the torque on one side and the whp on the other. it also could be the cold meds im on making me groggy. anyway, my vote still goes for the ls/vtec.
