Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion

Honda Accord 9th Gen 2014�2017 Upgrade � 12.3" Android Screen with Wireless CarPlay

Carputech — Fri, 05 Jun 2026 09:34:07 GMT

Hi Accord owners,

We�re CarpuTech, a professional manufacturer specializing in OEM-style infotainment upgrades. If you�re driving a Honda Accord 9th Gen (2014�2017) and feel the factory infotainment system is outdated, this upgrade is designed to bring your interior into the modern era without changing the OEM look and feel.

👉 Product link:
https://www.carputech.com/products/1...-car-radio-gps

🎉 Exclusive Forum Discount Code:

Code:

2026

Key Features

📱 Wireless Apple CarPlay & Android Auto
Seamless access to Google Maps, Waze, Apple Maps, Spotify, Apple Music, calls, and messages.

🧠 Android 14 System Built-In
Install apps like YouTube, Netflix, Google Maps, Spotify, and more.

🖥️ 12.3" HD Large Touchscreen
Significantly larger and more modern display compared to the factory unit.

🔄 Retains OEM Honda Functions
Supports steering wheel controls, factory settings, and original system integration.

🎵 Compatible with Factory Audio System
Maintains original sound quality and speaker performance.

🧭 Built-In Navigation Support
Use real-time navigation apps with live traffic updates.

🔌 Plug & Play Installation
Designed specifically for Honda Accord 9th Gen with minimal modification required.

Why Accord Owners Upgrade

The 9th generation Accord is known for reliability and comfort, but the infotainment system is now behind modern standards.

This upgrade delivers:

A much larger and clearer display
Wireless smartphone integration
A smoother and more modern user experience
OEM-style dashboard appearance

It�s one of the most effective ways to modernize your Accord without replacing the car.

If you have questions about compatibility, installation, or real-world performance, feel free to ask.

� CarpuTech Team

2017 Honda Accord EX coupe 6 speed

TheRottingPlum — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 20:56:38 GMT

I'm a happy owner of this 2017 Honda Accord EX coupe with the 6-speed manual transmission. What should I learn about my car? The interior lights don't work any more, and the passenger side headlight is not functioning correctly. Basically, the daytime running light is out on that side, along with the fog light. No other real problems to report with the car, got the 100k maintenance done, the brakes have a lot of life left, but I do notice that they are not completely smooth, which might be somewhat normal, I'm not sure to be honest. They are a tiny bit squeaky sometimes, but I hardly ever notice.

It's a pretty nice example, cosmetically there are a few spots that could get fixed, but nothing major or noticeable, just a small bit of rust, very small bit along the hood edge, and the driver's side wheel well has a couple of little spots of rust starting there. The only other cosmetic thing besides very minor scratches and small dings that you really have to look for to find. It's basically in great condition. It does have a prior salvage title, which is why I got it for the price that I did. I also put some money into it when it needed some work initially, but I think it was worth it. It's a prior salvage, but it got completely repaired and inspected, etc.

I love driving the car, I think this car is a bit rare,. do you guys know when they stopped making manuals? I feel as if I got a rare find here, the coupe manual accord, I bet they are pretty rare to come by. I read that they made around 3200-6400 of them with the 6 speed manual that year of 2017. Who knows how many coupes they made and sedan variety of the Accord that year, but regardless, most people don't have manuals any more. It's a modern example of a 6 speed Honda, it's not particularly fast, but you can drive it sporty with the manual. I really like driving manuals so I'm glad I found this Honda. Only 110k miles on it. I wonder what I should know about this particular car, if there is anything that the community can let me know about, that'd be great.

I think the repair for the headlight is around 1300, so I'm probably not going to be fixing that any time soon, just not worth the cost right now for me.

I just need a reliable car, and this is one of them it seems. I've heard good things about this engine, and I'm not sure about doing the valve adjustment and inspection, I'm told I don't need it done, so yeah, I trust the shop that told me that so I'm not shelling out 500 bucks to do something pointless.

I do delivery driving for work, so I use the car every shift. It runs great, sometimes I miss a shift, and it makes that awful grinding noise. I wonder what part I'm putting wear on when I accidentally do that. Doesn't happen very often, but when it does, I always wonder what got affected by it. Sometimes reverse or 1st gear goes in with a chunk, that's if I partially put the car in gear with the clutch in, then back out and in again, sometimes reverse mainly, chunks into gear. Sometimes 1st gear is hard to get into; sometimes, it's buttery smooth. I don't know much about manuals in how they work, but I sure as hell enjoy driving them, and am pretty good at shifting and rev matching, etc.

Anyways, I feel I got somewhat of a gem here, a rare coupe, 6-speed edition Accord. If I take care of it properly, I'm sure it will go the distance for me for many years to come. That's if I don't get into an accident with it. I make sure now to be completely focused on driving when I'm driving, because I recently crashed my other Honda Civic from 2016, while being on my phone in traffic, and rear-ended someone. Only accident I've ever had, caused by me.

I really dig the color of the exterior, as well as the interior. It's all black inside.

Maybe down the road, I'll get a better sound system put in, fix all the minor cosmetic issues it has, fix that headlight and interior lights, and make it pristine. If I had the money, I'd get full coverage, but it's hella expensive for me just for liability ($175/month), so I'm just counting on me not getting into an accident with it. I probably won't, because I focus on driving when I am, and I learned my lesson from crashing the 2016 Civic.

Anyways guys, thanks for reading, and let me know what you think of this car. Let me know anything you can add to this conversation. I'm curious about what's happening when I accidentally put the shift lever partially engaged into a gear without the clutch, or a partially engaged clutch with the lever near a gear selection. It makes that classic grinding noise when it does happen. Can someone tell me what is happening there? Is it no big deal to happen for the transmission?

Seems to me it's a pretty rare find, I wonder when they stopped making manuals.

Attached Images

car.pdf (8.17 MB)

2000 civic ex sedan rear disc conversion issue PLEASE HELP

BFX — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 05:33:57 GMT

Hello, I am having issues with my 2000 civic ex sedan. I recently did a drum to disc brake conversion, not my first time doing one and never had this issue before. This time around though I used drum to disc conversion brackets instead of a si/integra trailing arms swap. All the parts replaced that has to do with the braking system are, integra type r 1in master cylinder w/abs, new stainless steel brake lines front and rear, new pads all around, new rear calipers, new front and rear rotors, dorman e brake cables for em1. MC bench bled, all calipers bled, caliper pistons all work. NOW, after everything my driver side rear is dragging and now won't release, happened right when I took it for a drive and I heard squealing. The ebrake light now also shows up on the dash, it does release and engage though but obviously the calipers won't. The inner caliper on the back side facing the rotor started rubbing onto the back of the rotor and now won't disengage. I've checked everything and now I am at a loss, I don't know where to turn, I've read most threads I can find for the past 2 weeks and tried everything I can. Please if you have any ideas I would appreciate it, sorry for the very long post. Tried to give as much detail as I can.

99 civic ex

paullove — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 01:36:23 GMT

Can somone point me in the right direction. I cannot seem to stop water from dripping into the trunk from the taillight housing.

How does Idle Control Valve work? Engine source code?

oldbob69 — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 23:48:36 GMT

Idle Control Valves, mounted on the intake manifold and controlled by the Honda engine computer (PGM-FI), provide air (bypassing the throttle) with their own air-cleaner inlet ahead ot the throttle. On my '92 Civic, it is called the EACV (Electronic Air Control Valve) in the official Service Manual. On the '92, the part bolted onto the manifold also had a dummy chamber connected with active vacuum hoses but with no actual vacuum connection from those hoses to any working part of the valve or the manifold.

My question is, is the signal going to '90's Idle Control Valves an analog signal (a DC voltage, or Pulse Width Modulated voltage which acts as a DC voltage), which opens the valve a certain amount, or does it simply act as a solenoid valve (either open or not), which the computer changes (opens or closes) at times depending on other calculations. The travel of the armature of my valve appeared to be about .050" (acting around the circumference of the approx. 1/2" dia. port).

Another question is the actual source of oscillatory surging in engine speed that occurs when this valve is disconnected, or there are vacuum leaks. The '92 Civic (without Cruise Control) does not have electronic throttle control or any other apparent means (besides the EACV) for the computer to control engine speed besides fuel injection and spark timing. The rpm surging can have a period of from 1/4 sec to 4 seconds. Has anyone tried to reverse-engineer the main computer conrol code?

DGTune reputation

poomsamp — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 21:06:13 GMT

Just finished an lsVtec build (b16A2 head, stock b18b bottom) and am looking for a Hondata tuner since its running really rich. I found DGTune will do a remote tune for a solid price, but I can't seem to find any reviews on reddit or anything. Anyone know about them or else another remote tuner?

1992 Accord LX badly in need of an exhaust. What are my options?

sticknrudder — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 14:02:26 GMT

As someone who lived in MI I was thrilled to find this manual trans �92 accord LX sedan that had spent all of its life in Portland OR and just one year in MI. The car is in pretty good shape but the exhaust is SHOT.

After pricing everything out, I can get a complete replacement Walker exhaust from the header back for $300. I was able to source the A and B sections OEM for about an extra $100, but would still need to go with a walker muffler. Any thoughts on these options or recommendations for another? I just want a cheap, quiet, reliable exhaust for the car. I can weld so that�s an option, but a direct fit would be nice because I�m in the process of replacing my welder, someone stole my old one. Also just installed the car lift in my shop so I have no problems getting access. I have no experience working with exhausts other than replacing a donut. Would be fun to build something cool that was stainless but I have no idea of the work or cost involved in that. Trying if at all possible to keep it below $500.

Thanks for any help you can provide to a newbie who is trying to preserve this car as a reliable daily driver.

ARP 2000�s psi limit

Del.slow1 — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 12:36:58 GMT

I have a fully built css b18 ls vtec and unfortunately the guy I bought the motor from had arp 2000�s in it and the motor is already assembled, I�m hoping to make 800 hp and I�m wondering if any of you guys know the limit of the arp 2000�s, they are torqued to spec he said, so what psi do you guys think they will start to lift the head at? 25psi?

Need help w/ 2010 Honda Civic electrical quirks.

k_a4_denw — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 07:22:27 GMT

I'm likely going to be buying a 2010 Honda Civic from my teacher for $300, and the reason he's letting it go is mainly because of these weird electrical issues he's having, which I wanna get an idea about before diving in.

He said when he bought the car 8 years ago, the car had a parasitic draw, which caused the battery to die, so he pulled a fuse, which he said "Without that fuse, a lot of things don't work including the radio, using the buttons on my car key to unlock/lock the door, and probably some other things." I have a suspicion that the fuse was #27 in the cabin fuse box (the HAC or something?), because that fuse is still gone.

He said recently the car had some cooling issues or something (I suspect either the thermostat or radiator, from what he said), it overheated once, and he took it to a shop to get it fixed. When he got the car back, the big electrical issues began. Basically, the car alarm goes off as soon as any door is opened or when the key is turned. He's unable to stop it with the key or any button and has to wait for it to cycle to stop, so even after the car starts and drives, it continues. When I went to see it, the second the car got power the alarm went off (I think the door was open). The car runs and drives fine, but the battery dies now and has to be jumped every time. Also, now the passenger window has stopped working, apparently.

He suspected the car had an aftermarket alarm installed, and when I went to briefly check the car out in person, I saw a bunch of non-stock wiring in the cabin fuse box relay unit assembly. He's been removing fuse #12 in the engine bay fuse box to stop the horn when the alarm goes off, but he's unable to drive the car with that fuse removed (it starts but won't go into drive).

I'm guessing the major issues the car's having now have to do with whatever the mechanics did when fixing the cooling issue. Could it be a ground or something? I'm hoping it's something minor like that because the alarm started freaking out after he took it to the shop. I'm also wondering if any of those jobs involve removing anything having to do with the electrics.

And either way, I'd probably try to remove whatever aftermarket system's been installed (unless it's possibly salvageable), so help with that would be great. I noticed the wires that plug into the Cabin Fuse Box Relay Unit Assembly, directly under the top 3 fuses were spliced into and messed with. What are those wires for?

The thing is, this is my first "project car" I guess. I have a 2012 Audi A4 which is my first car, and I've done some stuff like replacing fuel injectors and installing coilovers, but obviously nothing electrical. So I really am not too familiar with the electrical and wiring aspects of cars. But I'm hoping this is relatively simple, especially with this being a civic.

When I checked out the car, I was only able to get some quick photos of under the dash, and I saw that the wires going into the connectors directly under the top 3 relays were messed with and spliced into. I also saw some unplugged wires lying on the ground, which had labels on them (I didn't get a chance to look closer), which looked like they might possibly be part of an aftermarket kit, but again, I'm not too familiar with this stuff.

I attached the photos I took of under the dash. If anyone can make sense of this, I'd greatly appreciate it.

You can see next to the kick panel there are random wires lying disconnected, some with labels too. Wondering if that might be part of an aftermarket kit?

Definetly spliced into the wires going into the connector right under the relays, what are they for?

Noticed this fuse was gone, maybe the one he pulled when he got the car?

I just need some guidance on how bad it is, what the issues might be caused by, and if it's something I can do as someone with really no experience.

ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor locations, on a 2008 CR-V?

AzAssassin — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 07:13:10 GMT

As the title alludes to, I am trying to find the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor 1 location, as I am having trouble finding it.

The reason that I am trying to find this ECT Sensor and replace it, is because my radiator cooling fans recently stopped working, and it seems that the ECT may not be sending the information, after the engine has heated up, so that the computer can turn the cooling fans on and start to cool down the engine. As it currently is, the engine heats up extremely quickly, within, 3-4 minutes of driving. And it does this, every time that I try to drive somewhere.

FYI, I have turned on the A/C and it immediately kicked on the radiator's cooling fans. So, the radiator fans, themselves, are still working. However, other than, turning on the air conditioning, the fans will not turn and start spinning, no matter, how hot that the engine gets.

Also, FYI, earlier today, I replaced ECT Sensor 2 (after, seemingly, unnecessarily spending $50 on a new Duralast ECT Sensor), which was located on the bottom driver's side area of the radiator. And I actually have two OEM Honda ECT Sensors on the way to my home, that I bought on eBay, for $12 each. However, they will likely not be here, for another few days; and I really need to try to get my CR-V fixed and get it to stop overheating, by Thursday, June 4th, which is the day after tomorrow. So, that is why I went and spent $50 on the Duralast ECT, at my local Auto Zone store.

Well, unfortunately, after spending $50 on that Duralast ECT and installing it earlier today, it did not help, as the radiator fans are still not turning on (unless, I turn on the A/C). So, that is why I am now trying to find the location of ETC Sensor #1, so that I can try installing the old ECT that I just removed earlier today, and see if that causes the fans to start working again.

Also, it sounds like there might be a fuse, or a relay, or some type of switch, that may be preventing the radiator cooling fans from turning on, after the engine heats up. However, I know very little about this stuff. So, if anyone would like to suggest any other potential fixes (fuses or relays to check, and the fuse/relay # or location), or some additional radiator fan troubleshooting steps, please, feel free to let me know. I would really appreciate any help that I could get.

Btw, I'm gonna try to post some photos of my engine compartment, that I just took. And I just removed the throttle body air intake house, because, after researching online, it seemed that ETC Sensor #1 was located somewhere on the driver's side of the engine block, in/below the area air intake hose. Although, I also read something that suggested that ECT Sensor 2 is on the bottom of the engine block, near the thermostat housing. However, even, after removing the air intake hose, I still can not find the ETC Sensor location.

Also, one more thing: Does anyone know, for certain, which ECT Sensor (1 or 2) controls the radiator cooling fans??

Sorry, for the long post. And as always, I would be genuinely grateful, for some helpful replies.

Edit: Am I correct, in that both of the ETC Sensors (1 and 2) are the exact same part and are interchangeable?? Or, are they different ETC Sensor part numbers?

Edit 2: I think that I may have found ECT Sensor 1 (or whichever ECT Sensor, is located on the engine block, below the throttle body), but, it looks to require a much larger wrench, than what the ETC Sensor (17 MM) needed. Is that right?? Or, as I just now suspected, while typing this, does that mean that I did not find the other ECT Sensor and, instead, found some other part??

Edit 3: Is there some way that I could connect some power wires, so that the radiator cooling fans are always running, while I'm driving? And I could put in a toggle switch, or just disconnect the power/ground wire, if I need to?? Or, would this be a bad/potentially harmful thing, to always have the radiator fans running, while driving??

Photos of my 2008 CR-V's engine compartment:

Did I just fry my ECU?

SDuby — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 18:50:46 GMT

Make/Model: Honda Civic 2001 DX Sedan, Manual Trans

Issue: When I start my car, the green key on the dash is flashing and the battery icon is lit up. The car does not get above a certain RPM and the engine just sounds like it's running poorly. Here's an example: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NnNrRPTi5uaxeSYk9. The OBDII scanner also no longer connects to my car and it used to. Sometimes when I turn the car on, I hear 2 clicks coming from the passenger glove box, where the ECU is.

Repairs I've Tried

Checked every fuse in the engine box and the driver side box with a multimeter and they all check out
Checked the battery when off, idling, and with some load on it to verify that the alternator is working and charging my battery (it is)
Disconnected the battery for 10+ minutes and reconnected.

Additional background:
I am a beginner when it comes to repairing cars. I recently replaced my camshaft position sensor which involved me taking the valve cover off. First time doing that. Afterwards, my car has this new problem, however. While I was programming the new camshaft position sensor per the Hayne's manual, my engine cut out and died while I was accelerating in 1st gear and got us to where we are now. It feels like I forgot to plug something in. I did forget to plug in the fuel injector for cylinder #1 and that was causing some issues but then I fixed that and it felt like it was running smoothly until I hit this new problem. I also undid the grounding bolt and wire for the alternator so I could move some cables out of the way of the valve cover but those got reinstalled tightly with contact cleaner.

I am just learning of this alternator grounding issue with the 7th civics and the symptoms seem to be lining up, but I'm wondering if there's a way to check for sure?

Bench Testing K series ECU

SQ is the SQUAD — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 16:57:19 GMT

i am putting together a customer digital dash for my 89 accord k swap. i am running a doctronic proecuk with cab bus adapter. i am trying to setup my ecu so i can test can protocols on bench. right now i am only getting 1v across the can lines. i am sure i am missing a ground somewhere. do you know what connections i need to make on the ecu to full power so i have a full 5v can bus signal? i can see data on the laptop, so i know the ecu is on.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/syyxtravfaheu9XA7

Difficult crossroad

Troika — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 16:17:28 GMT

So, I have a '93 Del Sol my roommate and I picked up during covid. We had the intention of fixing it up for amateur racing and learning to work on cars. The car ended up sitting for almost three years because our work situations changed and we ended up not doing anything with the car until late 2024 when my, at the time, daiky drivet got totalled in a accident. Instead of doing the smart thing and getting another normal daily, I decided to put all the insurance money towards fixing the Del Sol. We spent a ton of money on getting the card registered and titled, fixing all the suspension components, brand new coilovers from Godspeed racing, and steering components, replacing the clutch, replacing the old and leaking AC hoses (which still leaks somewhere else), removing the ancient fiberglass body kit because it was falling apart, replacing the speakers, replacing the rusted out exhaust and stock headers with a nicer stainless steel 4-2-1 header and skunk2 exhaust. The ECM failed at some point so a new P28 had to be sourced and then modded to work with a manual transmission (just changing out some resistors). The old air intake got pulled out and replaced with a cold air intake and cone filter, new battery because the old one just died and refused to take a charge. We also replaced the old, oversized rims and super stretched tires with Motegi racing 15" aluminum rims and appropriately sized Toyo all weather performance tires. All new fluids, new clutch slave cylinder, new fuses, and four wheel drilled and slotted disc brake kit from stoptech.

That pretty much brings us to where we are today. The engine had low compression when we first got it running back in 2022 but we didn't really have time to do anything about it then. Flash forward to 2026, the same problem still exists. Cylinders 1, 2 and 4 measure about 90psi and cylinder 3 measures about 30psi when doing a compression test. The piston rings are definitely bad but the uncomfortable question is whether or not the cylinder sleeves are also damaged, particularly on cylinder 3. If time wasn't a constraint, resleeving with new cast iron or even ductile steel sleeves isn't a huge issue. The problem here is that its my daily so I need transportation Monday thru Friday. We don't have time to just take X amount of time across a few weeks to bumble around and figure it out. I also don't have the money to just outright pay a shop to do it because now its not only parts but labor cost too.

Alternatively, we found a good condition D16Z6 engine for $2000 shipped, which would be a good option if it wasn't for the fact that I don't just have that kind of money just sitting around. It would expidite the issue of fixing the engine by just replacing it then we can just refurb the old engine whenever we have time.

The third option, much more painfully, is letting the car go and selling it to someone else who does have time to work on it and dedicate the time and money it needs to get up and running properly. I'd rather not do that option because I'll never see a dime of what I spent already. I could take all my parts off and put the ones that were on the car back on but I don't have the original brake kit anymore because it was in atrocious condition, the exhaust the car had before (which wasn't the factory exhaust anyways) was rusted and leaking so it got tossed out. I have the old coilovers but two of them are leaking so that's not great. It doesn't have bumper covers and it doesn't have the facia for the trunk because the one that was on the car isn't the factory one and removing it was the only way I could mount the license plate. Its the sunk cost fallacy right? I'm this far in, I don't want it to feel like I wasted time and money just to be at square one again.

Until I can get the engine worked on, I'd like to do everything possible to extend the life it has and prevent some catastrophic from happening, like throwing a rod or a piston and valve deciding they want to be best friends. I've been using very high quality fluids because I'm paranoid but its also what I did with my daily. Yeah, that was just a '15 Ford Focus hatch but I still paid extra to use better oil and fluids, periodically using Seafoam with a tank of premium to make sure the injectors were cleaned and not clogged.

So yeah, I'm using Motul Dot 5.1 Brake fluid for the brakes and for the clutch, Royal Purple Syncromax for the transmission, Royal Purple HMX High Mileage 5w-30 for engine oil.

I know the responsible thing to do is just replace the piston rings but I don't have time to do that, I don't have the money on hand to have a shop do it either. I just want to know if there's any additives I can use to limit how much additional wear the engine has to deal with until I have enough money set aside to get the new engine.

Why is it impossible Tensioner for 2012 Civic

whocareshonda — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 14:44:45 GMT

Hello... Why did Honda do such an impossible task? How does one replace the serpentine belt? The tensioner only goes so far, and there's not enough room to add the belt. I just broke the tensioner where the wrench would go on. Please tell me how one goes about replacing the belt without breaking the tensioner? Thanks

1999 Honda Civic Automatic transmission.

Honda_Civic1990 — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 14:44:32 GMT

Hello I am trying to rebuild a B4RA automatic transmission. I have a 4 door 1999 Honda Civic LX. Do any of you have any advice or experience with this transmission? I'm thinking of buying a master rebuild kit and I can let you guys know how the rebuild went. This is the master build kit I am thinking of ordering. https://www.partsgeek.com/95yyqm3-ho...l#immersedview