98cdmej6

so i got a swap done in the fall by a local shop, as spring came around i started some projects and in the process found out they did a good job tucking their mistakes rather than do a legit wiring job. so i want to clean up this mess, but honestly im in over my head.

my car
98 civic ex sedan
b18b1 swap

i want to run a stock p75 ecu, and have as clean of a harness as possiable. but as you can see im very far from that setup.



as you can see its not a p75, i dont know if the p06 was vtec but i feel a nice bump shy of 5k rpm


and hondata?, could this just be a cover?




found this guy hangin out stashed under the IM, i unpluged it and then got a CEL


and alot of these unused plugs... i have no idea what most of them are.
in some areas like down near the alt. they didnt even bother with heatshrink or electical tape at least.

i have no idea where to start the re-wiring and wheather or not i should try to salvage this harness? or maybe just start over? any help is greatly appericiated.

94EG8

That sensor that's hanging is the IAT sensor. One the '96 - '00 Civics it snapped into the airbox on Y7s and onto the intake arm on Y8s.

In the last pic the first two plugs circled in green are block off plugs, they're supposed to look like that. The covers have metal pins that connect certain pins to certain other pins inside the plug.

The other plug is for the CKF sensor (not needed when running an OBD1 ECU (or JDM OBD2 ECU)

The black sensor on the IM is another IAT sensor. Most or all of the B-series engines and OBD1 D-series engines had them attached to the IM like that. You can use either one, they work the same way. To use that one you will need to cut and splice the plug on the harness.

Without pulling the cover off the ECU and posting pics I couldn't tell you if it's a real Hondata unit or not.

98cdmej6

ok, sweet ill start some research on wiring IAT plugs. prolly gonna use the IM one

ill pop off the ecu cover tomorrow and post a pic, where/what should i look for?

and the knock sensor does have some usefullness correct?

im off to find some wiring diagrams...

94EG8

If it's an S300 it will have a little board like the one in the lower right corner of this picture:



If it's an S100 it will look a bit different.

LS engines and P06s both don't use a knock sensor.

98cdmej6

not hondata i googled what the s100 looks like too and i dont have it.

good to know about the knock sensor.

so like the knock sensor points out, i have just a basic idea of the sensors/wiring and am having a pain finding a wiring diagram. id like something thats like a pic of the engine with all sensors listed and pointed out, but i dont know if thats around.

im in the process of pulling out my harness

98cdmej6

k so the harness is out and in "final mock-up" befor i wrap it in heatshrink and throw it in fer a test...

^how it looks now, almost done.

^wires that go to...
driver side plug, only part im not going to re-wrap,
alternator, screw on and plug,
and ?, not sure, but single wire sensor that goes right into the block next to the oil filter, PSP?

^ wires that go to I.M...
TPS,
MAP,
IACV,
IAT,
EVAP selinoide,
injectors,
VSS,
and what ive been calling "block-off-blocks."(the two blocks that dont plug into anything.)

^wires to(counter-clockwise)...
fuse box,
O2 sensor,
t.stat ground,
t.stat,

starter,
back-up light switch,
another single wire mystery plug,under dizzy directly into head?,
ECT,
dizzy,
charcole can,

ok so in the mess of wires is a, CFK sensor and a secondary O2 sonsor, how do i pull the pin out if the ecu plugs, they are diifferent and i cant figure them out,(i know i saw how to in a thread once but now i cant find it).
and out of curiosity what is the green plug? yellow plugs=SRS, orange plugs=ABS, green plugs=accessory systems? (i.e. PS, A/C, CC?)

and the finale product uo close and what it looks like underneath, any thoughts or comments on quality or something i could be doing better would be awsome!
TIA
(like what to do with those ugly boxes, and sorry for the prolly horriable spelling, its late )

94EG8

Single wire plug by the oil filter is either knock or oil pressure sending unit (the latter has a yellow/red wire. IIRC knock is blue/red)

Green plug by the ECU feeds the cabin harness.

OBD2 ECU pin removal diagram:

98cdmej6

its prolly a oil pressure sending unit, already took out the knock, and this one is yellow/red.

yes thank you so much for the pin diagram, saved the link.

on saturday i threw it in my car and i now have a CEL but only when the engine is running(shouldnt a CEL always be lit up on the cluster in the onII position?), and i can rev past 3.5rpm so im not in limp mode, it has a rough idle and kind sounds like a diesel.

i am hesitant to drive with a CEL to autozone to read the code, or should i be fine...its prolly less than a mile.

kyden

you won't be able to read the code with a scanner anyway. (unless you're gonna use an obd2 ecu)

98cdmej6

ya, i wish i came and read that lil earlier, rented a code reader and tried, lol

but i used the paper clip trick and pulled the codes.
CEL codes
code 3 map
code 20 ELD
and ABS codes? i dont know how i got these?
16 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RR
18 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RL
54 - fail-safe relay
61 - ignition voltage

right now im going to say ive had previouse MAP problems, i just sent it to the shop that did this mess.
and my car is from canada.

ok so i double checked my wiring and tested the voltage, got 5v on left terminal,like it should be, and 3.5v on the right terminal, just for referance. so i think this narrows it down to either the sensor or the ecu, i wont be able to try another MAP or ECU so is there anyway i can figure out if it is the sensor, or if i got a bad ecu from this shop?

so i did some research and found out why its throwing the ELD, my is car canadian, so my ecu is looking in the fuse box for an ELD that isnt there.(right?)
is there any thing i can do to fix this short of getting a CDM ECU or a USDM fuse box?

dont know much about ABS?
where should i start with those?
i didnt do any thing with my brakes why would they come up?

98cdmej6

ok, so i went out and got a good map, put it in and the car runs much better but it still has a really rough idle and still throwing code 3.

like i said i already checked wiring and and the volts and they are good.
im still stumped, what else can i look into to fix code 3, i dont know.