1sthonda

I took off my EACV and cleaned it according to the directions on the forum:
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=62836

Now when I start the car it seems stuck in cold weather mode. High RPMs until it warms up fully. 1500rpm, then 1000rpm, then 700-800rpm. (shakes very lightly at low rpms. I gave the car a tune up a week ago when I first got it with the hopes of making this smoother.)

Note: The only thing I did differently when cleaning the EACV was I used engine starting fluid instead of brake/carb-cleaner. Did that hurt the EACV?

Last night when I was driving home I put the car in neutral and coasted towards a stop light for a little while. I do this to save gas. The RPMs went up and down from 300-1000. The engine stops doing this when speeds get to 25 MPH and below (still coasting). I checked for vacuum leaks, but couldn't find any. I have only noticed this happening when I'm coasting in neutral, Not when I'm in gear, or stopped and idling.

Sometimes when breaking hard the RPMs drop very low to 200rpms. Then after a moment they go back up to 800-1000rpms


I also did a Sea Foam cleaning:
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14612
Could the timing be thrown off when doing a sea foam kit? I remember while doing it my car was shaking really bad and tried stalling a few times.

What could this be? Can I tune my EACV or do I need a new one? Is it even the EACV?

Thanks.

1sthonda

Anyone?

boogienights

are you throwing a code for the iacv?

i would definitely check for vacuum leaks, although a leak would usually cause you to have a rather high idle. My car started to have idle issues like that, especially when braking and in neutral while cruising, when it had low compression.

I would start by pulling codes if any, checking for vacuum leaks, maybe swap in a known good IACV, and lastly i would do a compression check to see if thats the reason.

Start there and report back.

1sthonda

Are to you talking about a compression test on each of the cylinders? If so, mine are at 190 +/- 2 psig.

I can't find any vacuum leaks anywhere.

The only time a code comes up is if I unplug the IACV. It goes away when I plug it back. Tried this several times when trying to set the idle.

I took the TB off just a moment ago with the hopes of cleaning the FITV, but my TB doesn't have one. Just two sensors.
The MAP, and the one sensor that can't be removed without modifying the bolts.

I'm going to head to the parts store to pick up some new hoses because mine looked leaky. And to pick up some carb cleaner.

1sthonda

So I cleaned the IACV for a third time. I also cleaned the TB and replaced the coolant hoses that attach to it. Car still runs the same. 1500 rpms on start up. idles down to about 1000rpms.

I noticed a little allen bolt attached to the IACV. Looks like a 4.5mm. Any ideas what that bolt does? I would have played with it but I don't have a 4.5mm key.

adamrich33

its time to replace the iacv, i have had them do the same thing and not throw a code.

1sthonda

I have a Honda Civic VX. Can I get away with any IACV that looks the same, or does it have to be exact? I've seen them on e-bay for about $50

GhostAccord

Have you tried resetting the ECU?

adamrich33

there is a two wire and a three wire iacv, checked your wires and go from there

1sthonda

Reset my ECU about a dozen times.

2 wire. Blue/White & Yellow/Black.

Before I get a new IACV should I try to "reprogram" the computer.
ie, warm up the car.
Unplug the IACV, & idle at 600 -/+ 50rpm.
Reset ECU/Plug in IACV
Reidle at 700-800rpm for a few minutes.

I was told that the computer need to run without any load on the engine in order to learn how to idle. True?

GhostAccord

True!

1sthonda

Well, the car still starts up at 1500rpm, but after warm up (8-10 minutes of driving) it goes to 650rpm.

Is the problem is still the IACV? It's not throwing any codes. I think I'm going to take adamrich33's advice and get another one.

1sthonda

I picked up another IACV and guess what. This one idles high too. Only it idles high for a longer period of time, and almost never goes below 1050-1100ish RPMS if my lights are on. If I brake hard and come to a complete stop, the RPMs will drop to 600-700ish and then come up to 1100, and then settle in at 1000. This is with the lights off. (with lights on this doesn't happen. RPMS just stay at 1100ish.

I also noticed a difference with my shift light. The light won't turn on until my RPMs are much higher than what I'm used to. This is especially true in lower gears.

"New" IACV is clean and registers at 11 ohms with my amp meter.
Old IACV also comes in at 11 ohms.
Old IACV had lower RPMS sooner, while the "New" one seems to take longer.

When I turned on my lights with the old IACV the car didn't like it much. RPMS wouldn't change much and the car seemed to struggle. The heater fan was a little better.

"New" IACV responds to lights being turned up and RPMS go up to about 950-1050 when at idle. This is also true with the Heater fan. However, RPMS won't change in the 1, 2, and 3, settings for the fan. The will only go up 10 950-1050 with the fan on speed 4.

I can tell that this "new" IACV is different, however it's not dropping the RPMS the way I wanted. It's almost worse. What should I do from here?