Poordudes TypeR

I wanna hook up the new mtx-l wideband in my car. ive researched HT all over and all i can find is info on how to hook up the 7 and 6 wire lc-1 or lm-1.
does anyone kno where i have to hook up the mtx-l to the ecu it self (p28 s300)on a 99gsr.

switch power (red)
ground source (black)
headlight power wire (white)
analog 1 (yellow)
analog 2 (brown)
and on the guage it self i have two 4 wire connectors one says in one says out. which one do i hook up the programing cable into?

if anyone could guide me the correct way it would help so much!!!

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Innovate's website + hondata smanager help file would answer your question.

Your 0-5 volt (yellow) output should be wired into what ever input you want to use on the s300 system.

Poordudes TypeR

i tried the innovate website n couldnt find anything that i could use ATM. I did find some on here saying hook it up to the D10 pin on the ecu/jump.harness but that was it. n i wanna make sure i do it right since there is no real tuner up here in Alaska. SO i have everything ready n correct for who ever tunes it in the lower 48.

Poordudes TypeR

well did more research in the hondata Smanager , from my understading
i can hook up the red to any switched power source. and the black to the thermostat housing which idk what pin on the ecu that is. and the yellow wire to the ELD pin D10 on the ecu and brown im not gonna use cuz thats for narrowband use ...correct?

jdmadam

iTrader: (2)

Thermostat housing is not a pin on the ecu. It is a ground on the engine. You can ground the the thermostat housing or you can ground some where else on the engine. Do not ground to the chassis of the car. You can hook the red wire to A25 or someplace on the fusebox. Hook input 1(yellow wire) to D10(ELD) on the ecu. if you plan to eliminate your stock O2 sensor and run in openloop all the time then you wont have to use input 2(brown wire). Dont forget to also setup the wideband in s300 also.

Poordudes TypeR

oh ha. i thought there was a pin for it ha. sorry bout the noobish statement.
so pretty much i gotta run it through the firewall to the housing. and yeah i already disconnected the 2 factory sensors.

my next question is what do you mean set it up on the s300..

jdmadam

iTrader: (2)

You have to setup your s300(ecu) so that the wideband signal is on D10(ELD) and setup your voltage/AFR. You also would have to disable your stock O2 sensor. Hondata Smanager help File will get you all setup.

Poordudes TypeR

oh alright i got u. i kno where that is now. thanks guys so much for the help i got all of it hooked up... i hope it works better then most ppl say it does haha. we will see if i bug u guys on HT some more lol.

Thanks
carlos

mines13

I have the MTX-L wired into my S300. Works perfectly fine, also use the closed loop function. You shouldn't have any issues but if you do, hit me up.

Poordudes TypeR

thanks man, this is the first year im really getting into all this tunning stuff so i wanna make sure things are where they need to go the first time ya kno..
i havent had any problems with it yet . the only problem ppl are having n one my boys is having is the e2 code on a new sensor. but i havent had any problems yet. idk if im supposed to let the o2 htr heat it up or just start it cold...

lek9l

MTX Gauge Wiring Install:
Yellow (Analog 1 Wideband 0-5V) = Connect to B6, D10, D14 (Remove necessary capacitors if needed)
Brown (Analog 2 Narrowband 0-1V) = Connect to D14 (Use either wideband or narrowband, disconnect the one you aren't using to avoid any conflicts)
Black (Ground/Power Ground) = Connect to ground terminal of battery, guide says to Connect to A24, even though this goes to thermostat, I do not recommend it since I had the reading fluctuate in hondata, reading keep jumping around, too much EMI/RFI.
White (Cluster Gauge/Headlight Power) = Connect to the Dimmer Switch, manual says headlight power, doesn't matter much, if in doubt connect to ground of battery to disable it
Red (12V Power/Ignition Power) = Connect to positive terminal of battery with fuses and automotive relays, someone said to connect to A25, but the voltage fluctuates and gives inaccurate reading, so best source is battery. Below is a picture of how to connect the automotive relay:


You have to connect the serial cable to laptop, I used the serial to usb converter plug to use the serial cable innovative has provided by connecting it to the Out connector on the MTX, then program the settings of the gauge, make sure you remove the capacitors out of ecu, should work.

Now turn the ignition on, the "E2" will read on the gauge, leave it powered on for a minimum 30 seconds before powering it off. Then connect the MTX-L Wideband O2 Bosch 4.2 or 4.9, which ever you have available, turn ignition back on, but make sure the O2 sensor is in free air and not inside the header. The gauge will read "Htr" then read "CAL", indicating that the sensor is being calibrated. Then the sensor will display the default upper limit of 22.4, once this is done your calibration procedure is complete and your can
turn the MTX off and install the O2 inside the header. Make sure you do not turn on the MTX again until the O2 is connected again, or it will reset calibration.

Settings in Hondata:

You can run either setting of the following:

0V to 7.35
2.5V to 14.89
5V to 22.39

or





More information found from:
Xenocron DIY Wideband Setup Guide for AEM, Haltech, Hondata S300, Hondata KPRO, Neptune, Innovate Motorsports and PLX Devices

TimiK

Honda Prelude 1997 H22A

I have weird problem - everything should be installed correctly - S300 v3 and Innovate MTX-L (from Phearable) with it (wiring from D12 EGRL pin, yellow in use, brown loose)
I have narrowband "stock" sensor still there. Smanager and gauge shows the same AF.

Got a street tune - idle AF is round 14,3 - 15,3 otherwise pretty close to 14,7 also, so map should be ok.

But when changing from open loop to closed loop (with disable o2 heater) everything goes wrong - like it makes the whole map go away - engine starts to run bad and then dies out.

I have been trying to check that all the settings are ok and they should be... so with open loop everything is "perfect" and closed loop is no go.

Any thoughts where the problem could be?