owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

dem feels though.......i really HATE to revive my own 2 year olde thread.. but wtf- for serious.... i hardly drive this car on the streets anymore so on the rare ocassion i decide to take it out it bugs me when i want more than spring pressure

QUESTION/BACKGROUND INFO i am a semi savvy with tuning but cant comprehend what just happened. I CANNOT EXPLAIN THINGS EASILY VIA TYPING SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME


FIRSTLY my original issue was resolved by switching to a different ECU/S300 board combo and i got the BBG to work flawlessly as it should
SECONDLY the BBG stopped working again. i broke my LAPTOP with my CURRENT tune so i asked my friend for one of my older tunes ON HIS LAPTOP so i could retune/tweak the fuel maps (changed cam). i asked my friend to borrow his laptop and find my tune which was on s300 VERSION . 2.27? or a different version number than what i was running on my laptop 2.28 beta?) PRIOR to this ive had problems with the saved calibration/VERSIONS of the same tune were different the one on mine worked fine HOWEVER HIS OLDER VERSION made my car ran like crap. so i had to clear whole s300 and re-write it to fix this issue. first test pass i noticed i would only be running off spring pressure 8 psi instead of the 13psi off the solenoid the logs (graph) had steady 0%line or 100%PWM signal which i what i had when the PWM solenoid was no working properly i redid the parameters 10 times to try to see if it was a incorrect setting while diagnosing the problem. so i am confused/perplexed as to why i would all of a sudden stop working... i re-checked the solenoid for the 50th time seriously direct power to battery works i hear clicking... at switched power i do not hear the solenoid test/click unlike when its wired/working properly.. i looked over the a11 pin/wiring and a 12volt source i cannot get the ground/signal to work with s300 so its either s300 problem/ecu problem or somthing of that sort.... i checked the wiring with continuity tester and even re-wired it to be sure with new wires- still no BBG. I AM JUST SERIOUSLY irritated with this i spent at least 2 hrs tryin to fix something that i had already previously fixed. any ideas? any thoughts?

***EDIT*** Just checked the boost components in the ecu no burn marks no visible sign of leak or bad pieces... but there is something wrong with ecu not getting/sending signal

Spunkster

With an s300 it is much easier than that. Just go to Online menu, click on test outputs and you can test it from there.

http://www.hondata.com/help/smanager...b=test+outputs

Also make sure you are using the most recent version of software.

owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

gotcha, thanks spunk I never knew that.... i will try so later this afternoon and see what happens. Is there any particular reason as to why using the "latest version"? i was going to DL current version and copy over tables and see if it fixes everything.

Spunkster

You should always use the latest version as it has all the bug fixes and is most stable.

owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

3/7/15 *original problem solved bought a new s300 w/ different ecu and updated the latest Software. New problem overheating only while boost/underboost issues the motor is not blown, hg is fine no waste leaks, not pushing water, no smoke, turbo is brand new, no visible boost leaks/ un tightened clamps nor rips in couplers. I think mechanical timing is off by a tooth but unsure really... explained below,

I am more concerned about my UNDERBOOST issue. I cannot get over 7-9psi max and is preventing me from enjoying my car/getting a real dyno tune. the only exhaust restriction that could be a problem is flexpipe implosion/collapse but it looks fine,


*Cliff notes/Long-story-shorten and summed up best via words...*

1. old s300 with ecu was sold off to someone who didnt need BBG bought a new s300 with a different ECU redid my whole map copy/paste onto a new software file and ran fine.
2. decided to ditch my old cam with a new cam and cam gear (this is my possible off a tooth theory/ overheat) my friend supposedly set mechanical timing to TDC mark on ATI dampner and did base timing at 16 degrees and timing it to match the ATI damperners 16degrees mark. ran good besides a littler hotter than usual before it would be comfortable 175degrees peak as opposed to currently 205-210 peaking @ WOT (new thermostat and running 2 bottles of water wetter and distilled water). also took off the turbo blanket
3. vacuum line broke off top fitting of older f38 (2bolt) wastegate after this i switched back to a MBC bottom port only for the time being and it had no problems reaching 15psi+
4. decided to get a new style v-band tial mvs for clearance, i used a single spring setup for 10-11lbs... put it on with the old EBC settings and thats when underboost issues started to become a headache. spent about 1hr doing pulls to try and sort/re-config BBG settings to get past 8psi and would not work.
5. emailed tial to confirm that the mvs was genuine and not a china knockoff and it was the real deal. i emailed them about the same issue and said it would 100% have to be a mechanical problem not wastegate problem/failure.
6. a little frustrated/down decided to put in a "stronger" spring combo dual springs set to 18psi ran the vacuum lines to atmo trying to get a overboost to occur but could not. reinstalled MBC set to the max "firmness/higher boost settings" and still only was capable of 7-9 psi.

Just wondering could my timing really be off and encompass all my problems or something i/6 of my friends overlooked? or could i really have gotten a faulty wastegate of some sort. below are attached my MBC/f38(2bolt wastegate) LOG from 2 years ago next next pics are of my current tune/ logs of what is happening.




OLD WASTEGATE 15psi







NEW MVS wastegate 7psi




FUEL MAPS





Ignition maps

OneBadTurboCRV

Pictures are too small for me to see so...

There is a definite possibility that your mechanical timing is off. Your tune could be pure **** as well. Also, in my experience with a couple different ATI Dampners the timing marks weren't correct with the crank timing gear mark / arrow. The one I have now is 2* advanced and IIRC the other one was 3* or 4* advanced. These things need to be verified before you blow your engine.

Most people would actually check stuff out rather than keep doing pulls and risk blowing their engine.

owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

In regards to timing yes it was off, couldn't really reliable/proper way to check timing because of a missing a inner timing cover for the head. We did the cam gear alignment based off memory so i set it as the lower of the 2 pictures instead of the correct top display.

--- Still no gains in boost pressure i plan on taking apart the turbo/dp to inspect turbine wheel and flex pipe to see if there is a restriction/damage within a couple of days and lastly re-inspecting properly if there is a boost leak that isnt easily visible. car runs "better" but still wont get over 8 lbs.. i street tuned this setup myself with the help of a few tuners checking over my logs and such.


and by no means is this implying failures were caused by any of the suspected items it just so happen to occur around the same time changes have been made and with a sudden fault was first to be evaluated as a possible problem. Once again thank you outstanding contributors for aiding me in troubleshooting multiple problems

OneBadTurboCRV

Flexpipes have been known to collapse and are easily damaged if over extended or hit even though they look fine from the outside. The issue I have with how you said the car was tuned is that assuming is fine if you are positive your base timing is on point. When you reset your timing, you should have verified the location of the TDC mark on the balancer was machined in the right spot.

You would have a massive boost leak to limit your PSI like that. If you had a boost taper issue, then sure... but either way it won't hurt to check it out. Are you still on the MBC like you said or are you trying the EBC again?

owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

As for actual car bottoming out, my traction bar and E-cutout would hit before the flexpipe would contact the ground but i could be wrong.
timing was advanced one tooth to align head markings and ati damper tdc marker, placed dip stick in spark plug tube #1 to verify as close as possible where tdc/piston is actually. advanced cam gear 1.5 degree to compensate for shaved head.. (spools sooner and feels overall "faster") As of now its supposed to be running of spring only (once again has air fittings not blocked off, open to atmo)- i dont have BBC components in this new-2-me s300 i have since i plan on soon switching over to neptune. According to logs i am getting positive pressure around 3k with a 2-3lb increase per 1k rpm rate... maxes at 8.5lbs @7900 rpm. timing is a little aggressive for a z6 @18* 7psi column but i have a cam and 9 heat range plugs gapped down to .21 IIRC Afr's are were they should be 11.6-12.2. I re-checked t-bolts and looked over most of the usual suspect couplers for any slop or feel of not being tight but looked/ felt fine and i looked over my Intercooler for big gaping holes on welds or big dents and nothing looks out of the normal wear and tear or excessive.
One other thing i noticed is during WOT is the lack of the open dump tube sound, lack of flames,gases by-passing. Seems like theres not enough pressure to open the gate which has the spring rate of 17psi so that makes sense to me. hopefully tomorrow i will have time to check out turbine wheel and flex pipe.

OneBadTurboCRV

You need to seriously adjust your scalars on the graph haha. Also, you can cut down the datalog to show whatever it is you are trying to show in the picture. Why are you running 9's on the plugs? Have you checked them out lately? There are things to check like valve lash, compression, etc - but at this point pulling the turbo for inspection wouldn't be a bad idea either. Either your tune is way off or you have a mechanical problem of some sort.

owneyboy

iTrader: (1)

hmm now that i think of it lash was done with bad timing (smh), 9 plugs are being utilized because thats was what the ones local available to me during that time while every other spot was sold out of 7's..... i do have 7's ready to go just waiting for a real tune. heat strap looks acceptable, no peppery detonation flakes, nice tan/brownish color no white/green tips (cant really explain in technically proper terms right now sorry ). I figured stock sleeve high comp sohc-T would need extra leeway for detonation purposes so why not use 9's for now.

ramboPandA

Even if timing was off. Wouldn't valve lash be totally independent of that? You are measuring the gap between the cam and the rocker. Correct me if im wrong.

Adam Bousquet

Hello, I just ran into the same issue, duty cycle not changing boost pressure and only running off spring, long story short even after output test showed output working, I found that the Q20 transistor was in backwards (writing facing away from s300 board), not allowing signal to leave ecu. I then switched it so writing faces s300 board and it works perfectly. Hope that helps