ELD code 20 - CROME/P28 2000 Si
 

I built my wife's b16a2 about 5 years ago and have been using a phearable P28 with CROME ever since and it has ran great on CTR pistons and 91 octane. At the time the car had about 172k miles.

This car now has over 250k miles. It is really starting to need some attention.

Last week my wife had to tow the car home. By the time I got there, the car did start, but gave codes 3, 9, and 20. After checking fuses and cleaning the little bit of corrosion on the battery terminals, I reinstalled the battery. Code 3 (MAP) went away.

Right now I have 2 CEL's, code 9 and code 20. Code 9 is CYP, which is in the distributor I just replaced last year. I don't want to replace it again until I can clear the ELD code.

I have searched a lot on the ELD and it seems that the 2001+ civics have replaceable ELD parts, whereas older civics require an entirely new fuse box. I have yet to confirm that, but I can't seem to find anymore information on the topic.

I do see that a lot of car audio enthusiasts have ELD issues. I did recently install a new alpine head unit and an infinity basslink into the car. The ELD came on shortly thereafter. HOWEVER, this is not the first time we have had a system in the vehicle, and in the past, I ran much more power, using the same 4g wiring. Furthermore, I disconnected the entire system and still get codes 9 and 20.

So - can code 9 trigger code 20? and/or, can code 20 trigger code 9?

Also - I can not remember how I set my .bin file, but I do recall there is a "Disable ELD" option. Let's say I disable that, would the system still throw a code 20?

Thank you.

Re: ELD code 20 - CROME/P28 2000 Si
 

They're unrelated codes. Disable ELD and it should be good for the 20.

Re: ELD code 20 - CROME/P28 2000 Si
 

Thank you HRTuning.

Is there any harm to the vehicle by disabling ELD, other than perhaps sacrificing a few MPGs?

Re: ELD code 20 - CROME/P28 2000 Si
 

Some vehicles come without it, if that tells you anything.

Re: ELD code 20 - CROME/P28 2000 Si
 

I have been using the same .BIN file for years. After a lot of trial and error from street tuning, I have like 50 .BIN files in my folder (looking back, I should have deleted or moved the unwanted ones). I didn't know which one I last used, so I copied the .BIN from the chip and saved it. Then I took that file, used CROME to disable ELD and reflashed the chip. I still get codes 9 and 20. This is after disconnecting the battery and pulling the ECU fuse for 20 minutes.

Where are the CEL codes stored? Are they stored on the same chip that I just burned? Meaning, when I copied the file, did the system copy over the stored CEL codes?

Re: ELD code 20 - CROME/P28 2000 Si
 

UPDATE I reflashed the chip with an older BIN file and still get codes 9 and 20. whatever. Oil looks good. Coolant looks good. I did a compression test and got these results:

150, 190, 210, 210

I added oil to the lower pressured cylinders and they shot up to 220 and 240, respectively.

Should I do a leakdown test, or should I just consider the piston rings shot and rebuild the whole thing again?

the mechanic at my work says it is either bad rings or there is too much fuel going to those low cylinders. How would I confirm too much fuel? Pressure guage shows a steady 47psi while engine is running. Also, it is still hard to start. It smells rich and when it doesn't start, smoke come out of the intake.

Any thoughts, or should I move this to another forum? Thank you so much...I miss Honda-tech, it's been years since I posted after the last build because the car just ran so good for so long, I didn't need to be here. Hopefully there are still some honda-loving gurus that can guide me back into a healthy motor.

Re: ELD code 20 - CROME/P28 2000 Si
 

I FINALLY got around to doing the leak down test this past weekend.

Overall, cylinders 2, 3 and 4 seemed to test decently. No bubbling oil nor coolant. No sound out the intake or exhaust. However, cylinder 1 seemed to push air out the exhaust. That was the only cylinder, when tested, that sent the sound of compressed air out the tail pipe.

At this point, it looks like I must pull the head to do any further inspection, correct? What if it is a bad valve spring, is there a trick to inspect that with the head still on the block?