adeyspec

Disables it on my car, I get an O2 heater fault, tick the box it goes away

VegasInvasion

Sorry that is backwards, I will update that. Checking boxes DISABLES codes.
I'd like a little more feedback though before I renovate this, there's been 243 downloads and less than adequate response.

VegasInvasion

The manual has been updated, I may have forgotten a few things but I'll have time in the next couple days to adjust it if you let me know asap.

There is a rough troubleshooting section and some other minor additions, I hope it treats you well.

I'm writing over the same file from now on, the only immediate way to tell which version is which is in the footnote.

Donations are very appreciated, this was a massive project. Thanks to the few who have made contributions so far.

wheeelie

Any data to support the "check box for disabling the baro"? I have had great success with leaving it on.

VegasInvasion

I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but I recommend leaving it disabled during tuning.
For the purpose of speed density engine management, the MAP and IAT sensors act as a barometer. So adding another variable isn't really necessary, unless there's an evident offset.

In Colorado, our altitudes & weather vary quite often, I find enabling it after tuning tends to reduce plug fouling on engines that weren't tuned with much wiggle room, mainly while in columns below the tuned baro.

i.e. The pumping dynamic under throttle restriction changes how efficiently a mix is burned. If one day you're stoich cruising 10% TPS at 900mbar baro and 600mbar MAP, you might burn leaner up the hill at 100% TPS with 600mbar baro and 600mbar MAP.

VegasInvasion

I get these emails frequently with people using highly modified fuel systems and alternative fuels, I'm going to post it for now and update the manual when I get a chance.

- I have problems with hot starts. I run with ethanol and 43.5 psi of rail pressure. In hot starts, is very difficult engine run.
Ethanol requires about 33% more fuel for 1 lambda, meaning the multiplier needs to be about 33% higher, which in most cases means applying 33% less of your injector's flow rate.
Your cranking and post-start fuel values need to be 33% higher than they are. For P30 base, go to Fuel Tools > Advanced and multiply your cranking & post-startup values by 0.33, then add that sum to the existing crank & post-start values. If you’ve already done that and are still having problems, make sure your first row fuel values aren’t too low. If you’re still having problems, you probably haven’t properly adjusted the injector battery offset. There is a lot of dead time on those injectors.

- But the worst is the idle, that is very rich, like about 0.75 lambda all time!
With 2000cc, you’re not going to get a very good idle; it’s difficult for large injectors to deliver very small amounts of fuel. You can try raising it to 1000+ RPM to see if that will help, but it’s probably just going to run rich.
0.75L is unusually rich though. You have the correct offset scales from ID, so all you should have to do is adjust the offset in Fuel Tools. You should be following the advanced injector tuning procedure in Attachment 1 at the end of the manual for additional help. Also try to lower the actual fuel map values in that area, be sure you’re not having a mechanical issue or main relay fault, and consider upgrading to a gold base or starting a new rom just in case it’s a rom error.

- How do I need to tune the "Tools>Fuel Multiplier>Advanced" in this case?
I’ll update the manual with more information on how to adjust for alternative fuels.
Generally, if you were tuned on 1200cc and upgraded to 2000cc, the multiplier is basically half of what it used to be, but ethanol changes that.
If your previous multiplier is 1200cc (0.2 mult) reducing injector cc by 33% for ethanol enrichment (0.33 mult) then your previous injector flow rating should be 1200cc - (1200 * 0.33) = 1200cc – (396) = 804cc, yielding a 0.299 multiplier, which should match your cranking, tip-in and post-start. If this is not accurate, then you should start with a fresh rom to save yourself the hassle.
The new injector flow rating be calculated the same way. 2000cc – (2000 * 0.33) = 2000 – (660) = 1340cc, yielding a 0.179 multiplier, which is your new cranking, tip-in, and post-start value. You might want to reduce the flow rating slightly though since I’m pretty sure they don’t actually flow at 2000cc.

SQ is the SQUAD

this is an awesome resource. i learned a lot from it. i appreciate all of your effort. i have passed this around to plenty of people who want to learn to tune.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to let you know that I reference (and refer) this manual on a regular basis. Even though I don't use Crome, your methods are solid, real world, and laid out clearly. It's nice to have something based on a familiar platform to look at, as I spend a lot of time reading other material on general tuning theory... Those almost never cover our typical p28/p30 based setups that have their own specific quirks and limitations to work around.

I would love to see you make one for NepTune as well

VegasInvasion

I'd love to write more tuning manuals, but I can't cancel a $2000 dyno weekend to write a manual that doesn't pay the bills. So hopefully someone else learns enough from this one that they can pay it forward and write their own for other tuning platforms.

Black R

Fwiw, the gravity imports crome manual is the best to date.



Where are you guys located?

I'd love to come get a tune!

7rrivera7

iTrader: (1)

That's a good chunk of cash for a weekend. How many cars will you be tuning for that amount?

prjct92eh2

He's out here in Colorado. Come on out Ken!

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I have pdf on all my computers and my smartphone

VegasInvasion

I didn't know you guys were friends, I'll hook you up.
This time of year I average around 10 tunes per weekend. Depends on the cars and the builds. A lot of my tuning has shifted to AWD imports lately, they're pretty popular in Colorado. But I can always make room for a Honda

7rrivera7

iTrader: (1)

So it averages $200 per tune. What's the average time dedicated per client? I'm asking because I'm looking strongly into changing "careers" as there is alot of opportunity here in Puerto Rico. Need to get some formal training under my belt (EFI university) and then practice on my own cars before touching a customers car.

The only tuning area I find difficult to "grasp" and need to concentrate on is finding the optimum ignition timing while on the dyno. I read and read but I think it comes with practical training and not theory. Can you post your opinion?

Thanks for your excellent write-up!

Black R

I would love to do that.

I'm going to check and see what the trip would cost me in gas $ from Atlanta, round trip...

Remote tune possible?

VegasInvasion

I can do remote tunes.

Everyone learns differently. I read for months, then just blew up enough engines to learn how to make power without blowing **** up. EFI-U might be a better (cheaper) option for you, but I'm a firm proponent of hands-on learning.

My Hondata/Neptune/Crome dyno tunes are $220 flat rate, they average 60-90 minutes for common builds. My rates for other tunes vary on a lot of factors, but generally based on expected time.

A lot of the price is absorbed in expenses though. Tuning is an expensive business, whether you own a dyno or not. It won't make you rich. You have to be very good with long-term money management because it's a relatively seasonal income. It could easily take you 5 years before you start to become consistently profitable.

Your success is largely determined by reputation. If I were to give one piece of advice for an aspiring tuner, I'd say you should aspire for something else lol

SQ is the SQUAD

are you still using 1.6.2? does it work good with the demon? as we all know. 1.6.9rt has some bugs, i need to go back.

i think my 1.6.5 worked good.

Black R

One thing I think would be helpful is for you to include values or screen shots for things that work well - like idle and iat correction fuel ranges in all those boxes.

Like cold idle and warm idle values, and % corrections for say a bseries.

I know all cars are different, but there must be some correlation or range that you've found works well for the most part.

Under say Tools > Advance Tables

Ect fuel compensation table

Iat fuel compensation

Etc.

VegasInvasion

You can't basemap any number of the exact same engines on Crome and expect any of them to work the same. That's why I explain how to tune the temp tables and several other variables in my manual.

The reason you're using Crome is because you have more time than money. Which is okay, as long as you use that time to tune out the bugs.

Laziness is the biggest cause of blown engines.
.

2000CTRSi

That **** literally made me laugh out loud!

VegasInvasion

Version 1.6.11R2 is out, and the adjustment bug has been fixed. I did a tune with it yesterday and it appears to be functioning normally. If you have particular crome.ini or wideband.ini settings, you will need to retrieve those from your backup after installing, but all the connection and datalog settings should stay how they were.

Black R

I upgraded today to 1.6.11R2.

What is the adjustment bug you speak of?

Oh you mean where you couldn't adjust groups of cells and had to do it individually? Ya that was VERY annoying.

F20b97AccordLx

Hey Vegas

You sound like you have a lot of great knoledge and your located out in CO too where is your shop located? I'm out in the denver area and just got a F20b in my 97 accord and looking for a good place to get it tuned.

SQ is the SQUAD

any recent updates?