Spoolinb18c

Hey guys. I'm having a hell of a time trying to get my car to idle properly with all of my upgrades, mainly upgrades in fuel delivery. I recently finished rebuilding my integra pretty much completely. I have rebuilt everything from suspension, brakes, PS rack, transmission, the engine and much more. I have upgraded my fuel delivery system with a walbro 255(already had), aem rail, aem fpr, and rc 1000cc injectors. I checked spark, fuel pressure and compression is good. When I start my car it has a fluctuating idle and it's been tough getting it to idle properly. It's fluctuating between 600 and 2000 rpm. I'm definitely making improvements but my concern is, since I am starting it up multiple times without properly braking in the engine, am I going to cause the rings to seat improperly? I've only ever let it run for a few seconds on each attempt so it has never come close to heating up to operating temps. I'm currently using free crome and a moates chip burner to make adjustments. I know an emulator would be a more efficient way to dial it in but I'm only looking to make it drivable so I can take it to get inspected and tuned on a dyno. I really don't want to buy any more tuning equipment since I'm gonna have it properly tuned soon. Any input will be appreciated.

JRCivic1

It is likely that your high "hunting" idle is beyond a tuning issue. I suggest you put a stock set of fuel injectors back into the rail while you get the cooling system bled and the rings seated. Then put the 1000's in when you arrive at the dyno for your tune. The tuner can get them playing nice in a matter of minutes...

motoxxxman

I mildly disagree with this. I've tuned more than plenty of setups from first startup having drastic upgrades. Real time tuning, and datalogging, are your best friends for this scenario. Especially if it's only running for a few seconds at a time from bone cold. That's a terrible way to do it. The right way to do it would be to use crome pro with an emulator, make minor changes as it warms up, keeping it running consistently. Then once it's fully warmed up, get it dialed in, and proceed with street or dyno tuning. Once everything is dialed in at operating temp, then let it sit overnight to cool off and do a cold start and tweak the compensations without ever touching the fuel maps.

Also note though, RC injectors are known for having a poor spray pattern at low duty cycle. And the bigger they are, the worse their spray pattern. Meaning you may or may not ever get it to idle all that well. Especially if they aren't balanced well. This is why everyone goes with the new ID1050's. They are simply amazing in every way. As an example for me personally, I ran rc750's for years. even had them cleaned and balanced a few times. Once I finally bought a set of ID1050's, it idled like a brand new car. Ten times smoother just on my initial basemap than the rc750's did with a full proper tune.

Nlarge

my turbo build did the fluctuating idle ad it was a vaccuum leak. It would rev up at every light like i was taunting people for a race.

Those low z injectors can be a pain but shouldnt be that big of one.

Spoolinb18c

So I was able to figure out the issue. I did a complete wire tuck on my harnesses and I mislabeled injectors 1 and 4. I checked all the wire colors and compared them to the schematics and thankfully found the issue. It still idles a tad high but much smoother. Now I have to get it to a tuned on a dyno and a number of small items and it'll be good to go!