Looking for good machine shop in Simi Valley or San Fernando Valley
#1
Looking for good machine shop in Simi Valley or San Fernando Valley
Car: 1996 Honda Civic DX 1.6L non-vtec
Mileage: 280k
Problems: Water pump failure caused an overheat which lead to a warped head and blown gasket.
What started off as a head gasket change has turned into a full blown engine rebuild. Now I need to find a good shop, preferably in Simi valley, but Thousand Oaks, or San Fernando will work. If I must, I could even drive to Los Angeles.
Aside from that, I am curious how much I should have done on the block and also what prices to expect. I'm trying to do as much as I can myself to save money, so what is the minimum I can get by on?
I've bought the piston rings and when I put the new rings in the cylinder, the gap is well within spec. I can also still see the hone lines in the cylinders.
This is my first engine rebuild and any advice you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Mileage: 280k
Problems: Water pump failure caused an overheat which lead to a warped head and blown gasket.
What started off as a head gasket change has turned into a full blown engine rebuild. Now I need to find a good shop, preferably in Simi valley, but Thousand Oaks, or San Fernando will work. If I must, I could even drive to Los Angeles.
Aside from that, I am curious how much I should have done on the block and also what prices to expect. I'm trying to do as much as I can myself to save money, so what is the minimum I can get by on?
I've bought the piston rings and when I put the new rings in the cylinder, the gap is well within spec. I can also still see the hone lines in the cylinders.
This is my first engine rebuild and any advice you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
#2
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Re: Looking for good machine shop in Simi Valley or San Fernando Valley
I'd get the head resurfaced at a minimum and have the deck checked on the block.
Outside of that, there's probably not anything you *need* to do if you're keeping it stock.
New bearings/gaskets everywhere. I'm not a fan of plastigage since it's subjectively measured but it will at least tell you if something is off.
Outside of that, there's probably not anything you *need* to do if you're keeping it stock.
New bearings/gaskets everywhere. I'm not a fan of plastigage since it's subjectively measured but it will at least tell you if something is off.
#3
Re: Looking for good machine shop in Simi Valley or San Fernando Valley
Everything Pyro said, in addition though, since you are doing new rings, that means you need to also do a light hone.
Being able to see the original hone doesn't mean there is enough roughness left to break in new rings. It was already used up seating the original rings. You need to freshen up the hone so the first initial run of the motor you can seat the rings properly and it will take and last you a long time.
Something like this from amazon.com would work well for a hone refresh:
https://www.amazon.com/76MM-Flex-Hon...3%22+flex+hone
The part I'm unsure of is 400 grit to high or just right for refresh or should you get a 240 grit? Maybe a machinist will chime in on the grit preference on the final hone.
Actually just found this interesting info on grit choice:
Iron Cylinder Ring Type:
OEM Iron rings: 180 or 240 grit
Chrome rings: 240 or 320 grit
Moly Rings: 320 or 400 grit
Plasma Rings: 320 or 400 grit
not sure ring type: 240 grit
Manufacturers Recommendation:
Hastings: 240 grit
Akerly & Childs (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Akerly & Childs (Moly): 400 grit
Perfect Circle (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Perfect Circle (Moly): 400 grit
Sealed Power (Moly): 400 grit
Speed Pro Hellfire (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Moly): 320-400 grit
Harley Davidson(stock): 320 grit
Wiseco (chrome top): 320 grit
Mahle (Moly/Chome top): 280 grit
This is found on this site:
http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html
And then an interesting article on plateau finishing hones to create a better seal initially and increase ring life:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2004...e-refinishing/
Being able to see the original hone doesn't mean there is enough roughness left to break in new rings. It was already used up seating the original rings. You need to freshen up the hone so the first initial run of the motor you can seat the rings properly and it will take and last you a long time.
Something like this from amazon.com would work well for a hone refresh:
https://www.amazon.com/76MM-Flex-Hon...3%22+flex+hone
The part I'm unsure of is 400 grit to high or just right for refresh or should you get a 240 grit? Maybe a machinist will chime in on the grit preference on the final hone.
Actually just found this interesting info on grit choice:
Iron Cylinder Ring Type:
OEM Iron rings: 180 or 240 grit
Chrome rings: 240 or 320 grit
Moly Rings: 320 or 400 grit
Plasma Rings: 320 or 400 grit
not sure ring type: 240 grit
Manufacturers Recommendation:
Hastings: 240 grit
Akerly & Childs (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Akerly & Childs (Moly): 400 grit
Perfect Circle (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Perfect Circle (Moly): 400 grit
Sealed Power (Moly): 400 grit
Speed Pro Hellfire (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Ductile Iron): 240-280 grit
Total Seal (Moly): 320-400 grit
Harley Davidson(stock): 320 grit
Wiseco (chrome top): 320 grit
Mahle (Moly/Chome top): 280 grit
This is found on this site:
http://www.enginehones.com/technical.html
And then an interesting article on plateau finishing hones to create a better seal initially and increase ring life:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2004...e-refinishing/
#4
Re: Looking for good machine shop in Simi Valley or San Fernando Valley
I appreciate the replies, and based on your recommendations I've picked up a Brush Research Flex-Hone that's made for my cylinder size. I also bought some of the flex-hone honing oil, and a $35 engine stand from craigslist so I can do this right.
After cleaning the block and giving it a light hone, I plan to take it to a machine shop to have them test it and do whatever else is needed to get it where it needs to be.
The only thing I need to know is what shop to take it to.
Does anyone know of a good shop in Simi Valley or North of Los Angeles, like San Fernando?
Thanks again,
M
After cleaning the block and giving it a light hone, I plan to take it to a machine shop to have them test it and do whatever else is needed to get it where it needs to be.
The only thing I need to know is what shop to take it to.
Does anyone know of a good shop in Simi Valley or North of Los Angeles, like San Fernando?
Thanks again,
M
#5
Re: Looking for good machine shop in Simi Valley or San Fernando Valley
I found a shop and had the block resurfaced since it was warped a little. I also ordered all the bearings as well as the head gasket, distributor o-ring, and crankshaft seals. I still need to get the rest of the gaskets for the block.
Thank you again for all the advice, this has been a valuable learning experience.
Thank you again for all the advice, this has been a valuable learning experience.
#6
Re: Looking for good machine shop in Simi Valley or San Fernando Valley
Please utilize your other thread that I moved into the 92-00 section. That section is better designed for this kind of rebuild over this section which is a bit more specialized for high end engine assembly/machine shop work.
Now that you have a machine shop, continuing with this thread in this section with general rebuild info will result in a closure.
Now that you have a machine shop, continuing with this thread in this section with general rebuild info will result in a closure.
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