SlepT ej6

From what I've seen in the diagrams, theres no need to have a fuse on the alternator wire running to the back of the car correct..?

Im trying to figure out what size fuses to buy as well...

off the battery line i put a 125A on the 2 gauge wire...? would that be ok?

does anything else on my original one have to have a certain amp fuse?

Big Teggie

If you are still using the OEM fuse/relay box, there is already an 80 amp fuse in it.

I didn't use a fuse for anything but the solenoid, which has a 10 amp fuse.

Fred n J_v2.0

Hey guys,

I've been reading thru a bunch of master cutoff switch threads but I'm not sure how I can relate to these or if I'm just not grasping it...I drew up a diagram of what I have, and what I plan on doing.



My current setup is on the left. i plan to relocate the battery to the rear of the car just to get a little more room.

The setup to the right is how the instructions that came with my kill switch call for. I'm just curious to know if the new setup, as I've drawn it out is correct.

Also, would I go to the starter button and power to switches before the master cutoff switch or is this where I would add a distribution block, in between the starter/alternator and master cutoff switch?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Julian

tepid1

I see where you're trying to go with this....

As drawn it will not work for you. Give me a few to get a picture for you.

tepid1

Let me know if you have any other questions.

rip94delsol

thats how I have mine. haven't put it to use but I am sure it will work.


Edit: theres no need for an fuse between the alt and battery is there?

tepid1

I feel as though there should be one....

What if the alt wire shorts to chassis ground? You will melt the car before that wire melts. Better safe than sorry. I'd put a fuse as close to the alternator as possible.

likwid2u

im new to honda tech and all but for a battery relocation and kill switch wouldnt it be easier to just hook up the cut off to the negative....... thats how i have had it on my crx for years and i havent had any problems with it, i took out my rear trunk lock and put it there...... the only problem ive had is whenever i do drive my car on the street some dumbass tells me i left my key in the lock but the funny thing is im driving????

DOHCtor Boost

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I feel as though there should be one....

What if the alt wire shorts to chassis ground? You will melt the car before that wire melts. Better safe than sorry. I'd put a fuse as close to the alternator as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fuse needs to be close to the battery.! If there is fuse close to the alternator a short in the wire before the fuse at the alternator will still cause trouble.

tepid1

Agreed, but to an extent.

If you have a short in the alt wire then you want the fuse close to the alt so that when it is still spinning the fuse pops and kills power on that line. Now, there will still be power on that line so you will have to kill the batt by hitting the kill switch. That will kill the other side of the fuse. That is the purpose of the kill switch. So basically the fuse on the battery side is not all that critical in my opinion.

DOHCtor Boost

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Agreed, but to an extent.

If you have a short in the alt wire then you want the fuse close to the alt so that when it is still spinning the fuse pops and kills power on that line. Now, there will still be power on that line so you will have to kill the batt by hitting the kill switch. That will kill the other side of the fuse. That is the purpose of the kill switch. So basically the fuse on the battery side is not all that critical in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Axactly what I was thinking to..!
Maybe 2 fuses one at the battery and one at the alt will help in cases when you crash and are unconscious.

tepid1

That would work. I don't know what the voltage drop would be across the length of the line and the two fuses, but it would be super safe. lol

SPOOLINmatt

from what i see you guys are just using the switch to intterupt the battery connection to the starter and fuse box underhood...and leaving the alternator just hooked up the way it is already.

boostedcivicsir

pretty much, but the alternator has to go to the batt side of the switch or it will keep the power goin to the car.

if the fuse box is on the other side it will kill the car, but if anything else on the other side of the switch not powered by the fuse box will still run.

boostedcivicsir

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlepT ej6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I've seen in the diagrams, theres no need to have a fuse on the alternator wire running to the back of the car correct..?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you are relocating the batt to the back, you need a fuse on the b+ goin to the front. ( i would use a 150-200a circuit breaker as the starter draws alot.)

same as if you are putting the kill switch in the back. if you have a long run od b+ wire you should have it fused or breaker.

SPOOLINmatt

what size wire is the norm for running back to the switch and back to the front.

jjspec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Teggie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is how I set mine up using a heavy duty solenoid/relay.

I used 4 gauge wiring for the battery, alternator, starter, and from the solenoid to the fuse box.

The OEM fusebox is fused so you don't need to add one inline.

With the solenoid, I was able to use a minimal amount of heavy 4 gauge wiring. From the solenoid to the kill switch I used 18 gauge wire.




Modified by Big Teggie at 7:16 PM 5/24/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

The problem with this set up is if you have a wreck and the electrical system gets grounded another way the switch wont do its job. The switch has to be on the positive side according to the rule book if I remember correctly.

boostedcivicsir

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what size wire is the norm for running back to the switch and back to the front. </TD></TR></TABLE>

bigger the better, 4ga should suffice but you may have a voltage drop issue. 00 would be best but thats about 50lbs of wire.

i have had decent success using the summit / moroso / jegs relocate kits, i think they are 2ga wire.

B16A1-EF9

where did you get the HD solenoid/relay from?

litovi3tboi503

great info I need to work on mines soon. Maybe tonight after seeing how simple it is. Thanks for the great info guys

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I'm using a Flaming River alternator cut-off switch. It's essentially a heavy-duty relay that's triggered by the battery cut-off switch.

661rex89si

this should help me with my plan great ideas guys.

Big Teggie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jjspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The problem with this set up is if you have a wreck and the electrical system gets grounded another way the switch wont do its job. The switch has to be on the positive side according to the rule book if I remember correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The relay is on the positive side. I am just using a switch in the rear to trigger the relay.

cluelessmale

iTrader: (1)

K.I.S.S.

BrowNKiD

which wire on the alternator do you run to the batter?