D-Man

that's beautiful

XXXRacing

The race version is like a underdrive pulley for the alternator also. The street one has the normal size for the alternator.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rolow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Arturbo

What is the difference between the race version and the street version besides the power steering and a/c provisions?
I am looking into getting a Fluiamper for my street car. I only run an alternator. I'm trying to find out witch would be better for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wHOAlly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard some issues about fluiddampers that caused me to steer clear of them and go with ATIs


here goes some of the stuff I heard...this is coming from the Scat Crankshaft website

A word about vibration dampers
In our conversation, Tom Lieb gave us some great (though sure to be controversial) information about a subject directly related to the crankshaft and its survival in a race engine: vibration dampers. He was quick to point out that a very common cause of crankshaft failure is using the wrong damper, and is especially leery of any damper that has moving parts. "A damper is supposed to balance an engine. How can you do that when you have something moving on the damper?" Lieb went on to say "Any damper with moving parts, whether it is fluid or mechanical, is not recommended in a drag race engine. Anything that moves in the damper has inertia. When you quickly accelerate or decelerate the engine, that moving part of the damper slams one way or another and puts a lot of stress on the crankshaft. For an engine that runs in a very narrow rpm band and with very little change in engine speed, like an 18-wheeler or a car that drives on the highway at a constant speed, a damper with moving parts is fine, because it will find the frequency at a constant rpm and dampen the vibrations. But with a drag race engine that accelerates and decelerates fiercely, the engine will only have certain vibrations for a millisecond." For a drag racing engine, Lieb recommends the lightest, smallest damper possible, with an elastomer-type construction. "The rubber will sit there and hum, but it won't change location

also another thing I found for a little trivia..

Fluidamper does suggest that it will take about 30 seconds or so on a cold day (below 30degF) to lower the viscosity of the fluid so the inner ring spins freely.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

from what i undestand the fluidampener works like a gyro, atleast thats how i see how it functions, correct me if im wrong

D-Man

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00n’d Supra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
from what i undestand the fluidampener works like a gyro, atleast thats how i see how it functions, correct me if im wrong</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup,its kinda like that

Here goes another quote from a guy talking about them....

"I work for a Caterpillar dealer and we have used fluid filled dampers for years in many different application, On highway and Off Highway trucks, numerous vehicular applications such as trains, Machines(dozers excavators loaders etc.) and industrial engines(EPG, gas compressors, drilling rigs and so on). Some of the larger engines actually use twin dampers bolted together. Anyway to the point a fluid filled damper has an iternal ring that moves within the fluid, This is what absorbs the harmonics from the crankshaft. Fluid by its self can not absorb harmonics, If anything fluid would amplify them. I do know that with the larger units over time the silicon fluid will gell up and cause the damper to become ineffective. Also dont use one with any external damage, The internal ring may be lodged by a dent in the housing thus not being able to dampen harmonics. If you do decide to run one make sure you buy a quality unit. I felt that on an engine that constantly is changing speeds that a fluid damper is not as effective due to the viscosity of the fluid changing with temperature. As the damper absorbs vibration it will heat up causing a different rate of dampening, I feel that if the engine is not changing speeds as often it would be fine. Think of a fluid damper as a hydraulic shock absorber, The more you work it the shorter life span the shock has. Face it oils/fluids have a certain life expectancy and if you heat cycle them enough they loose effectiveness by breaking down. So for long term and durability I say an elastomer damper is the best choice, But the fluid damper I feel has superior dampening qaulities. So with that said its up to you, You arent going to put it on and have the snout of the crank break from it, And if you do it would more than likely have broken no matter what balancer you used."

ranta18

I also know people that work with CAT engines and they said if the fluid leaks out just a little, its not going to be in balance. You'll never know if it does either on a car. Why have that in the back of your mind always wondering if it has the correct amount of fluid and if its at the right viscosity.

shant

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On race cars with 16v batterys we don't run a damper since there's no alternator. Just a bunch of washers and the bolt to hold the timing gear in place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not sure if this was a serious comment or not? but wouldn't this be a bad idea? everyone is saying that these harmonic dampers are so important

what type and size washers are used to accomplish this? any pictures.

JDMvtecDRAGSTA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quik Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not going to use the evolution pulley anymore, sfi just approved a new pulley, and it seems to be hot. Here's a pic of the new one.



Modified by Quik Chris at 11:08 PM 9/5/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

is that an unorthodox one

tony1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im not sure if this was a serious comment or not? but wouldn't this be a bad idea? everyone is saying that these harmonic dampers are so important

what type and size washers are used to accomplish this? any pictures.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, it wasn't serious, but i wondered how long it would go until someone said something. I always use and recommend a balancer/dampner. Your motor will love you for it!

Flamenco-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im not sure if this was a serious comment or not? but wouldn't this be a bad idea? everyone is saying that these harmonic dampers are so important

what type and size washers are used to accomplish this? any pictures.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, I dunno if it's serious, I dunno how it's even doable. It's an insurance for your bearings, it's a rather cheap preventive measure IMO.

stan

CHEETAH

iTrader: (2)

fluidampr dampener/balancer from Endyn - with layer for alternator belt. all motor race car ... seen 12.5krpm a few times.

greg

sol2nr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive been running the CTR peice of 3500 miles and no problems yet. I wil be switching the fluidamper peice soon though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've been using my CTR N1 for over 30,000 miles with no problems! yes, 30,000 hard miles on a used JDM engine with about 100,000miles on it now. just wanted to give my experience.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">N1 pulley killed my oil pump after 1k miles. Now I am stock ITR oil pump with Fluidampr crank pulley.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't know about the pulley being the cause.

OaksRacing

Sorry everyone this response was supposed to be on the damper woes topic. I was looking for some old post and didn't get out.

jordaninu

unorthodox here, no problems yet

speedbynumbers

ATI fluid dampner works great!!!

base-op.1320

Ati doesn't make a fluid dampner do they?

DaveF

its called the "super damper" from ATI.

Fluidamper is a seperate company.

nonvtecallmotor

I ran a Fluidamper for 1 season with no issues. Had the motor freshened up over the winter. Put the damper back on and less then 10 passes I heard a noise in the motor the flywheel bolts came loose and the damper was loose as well. It messed the damper up bad it even bent the end of the crank. Everything was torqued and the engine was balanced. I'm sure that the Fluidamper was out of balance so I replaced it with an ATI unit.

I would rather use a stock/CTR over a fluidamper.

base-op.1320

Yeah I had issues with a fluidampr also, deff stock or ati

urinc

The Fluidamper turned into a hammer because the gel locked up the inertia weight. This caused a rotation vibration/harmonic that caused the bolts to come loose. Glad you caught it before you had any other engines damage.

urinc

There are some great new facts about the pulleys and future dampers in the unorthodox blog section. Good read!

White Smoke

Super old thread. lol
Fluidamper here and have never had any problems with it.