slowhitEJ1

setup is as follows:

Turbo Side
Holset HX35
RLD twin scroll manifold
2 Tial 38mm wastegates
Greddy Type rs BOV
Treadstone Intercooler

Head
D16Z6 head
zex 59300 cam
Stock IM
62mm throttle body
Stock Valves
Crower Ti retainers
Crower Ti Springs

Bottom End
Stock Z6 Block
Moroso Block Filler
75mm Vitara Pistons
FJT spec Custom Length I-beams
Balanced and Blueprinted

Fuel
Walbro 255
Precision 880cc
Blox FPR

I had it street tuned since it is my DD, and I didn't have time or the money right off to throw it on the dyno, so it's currently on 14psi springs, no cam timing, and dizzy set at 16*. (i don't know alot about tuning, so if there's a better way of saying that, let me know) tuned on crome gold, redline at 8k.

Wifey bought me some pulls on the local mustang dyno, and it put down 190hp/170tq and power dropped of a little starting at about 6600 i believe. The shop owner told me that their dyno reads about 20% lower than anything around town, and said that i would probably do about 230 or so on a regular dynojet.

The track setup:
just what i drive on the street, full interior, kumho ecsta ast tires 205/50/15, on 15" rota jmags, omni power full coilovers (the street set, not the track set, 6k and 8k i think?)

Outside temperature was in the 90's, very humid, and very close to sea level.

my times:
r/t: .5353
60ft: 2.6803 (I ran better, but this run was my lowest overall time of the day, and best mph)
330: 6.7945
1/8th: 9.9308
mph: 80.52

92redhatch

That's really bad. You need to work on your 60'. You should be running a low 9

slowhitEJ1

i tried everything i could think of.. my 2 step is at 6500. i tried:
feathering out at 4K
dropping at 4K
feathering at 3
dropping at 3
dropping at 6500 and just flooring it
feathering at 6500

i did nothing but spin everytime.. i bogged on dropping at 3 though.. people have told me that the track is horrible, but i don't like to make excuses..

92redhatch

Get better tires and align your car.

ExospeedAMcrx

Get slicks. That will drop the ETs at least 1 full second if you get into the 1.8 60ft.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

You could pull like a 9.4 or better on street tires. But buy some slicks its a way better experience and you will go a lot faster. I picked up a used set with rims for 200 and its the best money spent. In the last month.
And your hp seems really low for 14 psi on that huge turbo. And all those parts in it. Good luck

slowhitEJ1

yeah, like i said, it's just a street tune, and it was only so that i could drive it back and forth to work. i'm looking at go-autoworks V2 competition wheels, but i don't know how slicks are sized. the wheels i want are 13x8, but call me dumb, i can't figure out what slick size i should get. this is my DD, so i can't really afford to break axles or worse. so

1. if i stick with my 15x7 jmags and just get better street tires, what should i get?
2. if i get the 13x7's, what size should i get?

on more tuning, and more boost, i should be about to go well over 300, and other builds have made it into 400 on similar setups, as i'm sure many of you know

oh, and i'm sure an LSD wouldn't hurt either

0xenocron

You want a 13x7 on a 23" slick

Depending on what trans you are running will dictate some in your slip as well.

You need to get a weight on the car with you in it as well next time you go to the track.

15 psi on your setup should be in the high 200's, possibly in the low 300s if your combo is working correct.

The only thing I dont really like is you are using the Custom FJT I-Beams which bring your compression UP...which defeats the entire purpose of using a Vitara piston. I still really have no idea why anyone wants to run a vitara and put their compression back up in the 8.8-9.0 range. Keep the compression low on these things with a regular length Eagle or equivalent rod and crank the boost

nsxmatt

If the purpose of a Vitara setup was just to drop compression we would be stacking HG's instead. They use the rods and pistons because they are stronger. There is no reason to run a 7.8:1 compression ratio in this day and age on a turbo car unless you have a horrible tuner and want a slug of a car out of boost.

slowhitEJ1

sorry i said 13x7, they are in fact 13x8.

i'm just running the stock ex/si trans

yeah, i figured it would be a little higher, and i'm sure with a little more tuning, it will make more power, but we already spent about 5 hours (mostly due to my mistakes in putting stuff together, wrong plugs, etc) that once we got it running well enough to drive, we just called it a day..

D16Z6 with Y8 2 layer HG ---> 8.48:1 (7.47:1)
that's what FJ posts on his website, and with a turbo this large, i was under the impression from some of my recent thread questions, that in order to spool a turbo this large, quicker, higher compression was better, so i chose the longer rods, and a twin scroll manifold.

also, before i make the wrong impression, i bought this motor already built. it happened to be the same setup that i wanted to go with, except i was going to use a supertech valve train, but i got it for 1650 shipped, so i picked it up.

seanc520

iTrader: (1)

yes thats bad my DD stock bolt on gsr runs 9 flats in the 1/8th

B18C1CYA

You need to get that 60' time down, get some lenso 13" vpd's and some 24.5" slicks

slowhitEJ1

well let me ask y'all this then: with the setup I have now, wheels, tires, suspension, etc, is it worth it to keep trying to lower my 60ft, and try to pull another second out of it, or wait until I buy better tires, traction bar, etc?

B18C1CYA

I have the same omni powers in my car , but I have traction bars and can cut 1.8 60' with out even trying , trying I can get 1.6's you need some slicks for the track , its the only way to realy hook up at all

0xenocron

I have a number of these setups at this point and in my personal experience your just plain wrong. Vitaras are a cast piston so I fail to understand what makes them stronger than a factory cast piston? Yes of course you need stronger rods...

Running a thicker head gasket has a long tradition of working well on b-series and even the new s2000 motors and while going THAT thick on a head gasket completely ruins these beautiful combustion chambers...the fact remains that D-series have crap chambers that are designed for fuel economy.

The beauty of the sohc vitara setup is huge piston to wall clearances and low compression. D-series rod/stroke already makes it a torquey motor so the slightly lower compression keeps it from feeling like a dog. Since most people running a vitara setup also wont pay for race gas...the comp ratio allows you to run a lot of boost safely, even when using a fairly inefficient combo of parts.

This is just my opinion though...

Drag4Life723

Very well said. I think a lot of people would be shocked if they could put some stock honda pistons with eagle rods in a engine how much it would mimic of what a vitara set up would do. Apples to apples of course.

to the OP OMG about your 60ft. a bone stock honda auto will 60ft better than that. if you were on a .500 light nice reaction time.

ReDemoN

I was running 9.90 in my all motor mini me setup.

1.5Slowmatic

uhhh D series have pretty tight chambers that have very good quench when used with a properly designed piston. Larry @ Endyn has a quote in one of his old writings about how much better the SOHC chambers are purely from a performance stand point. And as far as the vitara being stronger, they are made from a different alloy than T6 heat treated to increase strength more according to FJ

ExospeedAMcrx

Wow, I'd like to know more about that information.

0xenocron

Again, this is just from a lot of personal experience...I get a LOT of D-series setups through my door for some reason, and I have really seen the gamut of slow *** 110 HP D15B2 motors with an Apexi IHI (smallest turbo ever) to my guy who went 10.40s last year on a Vitara setup.

I am no engineer but I am a smart guy who can interpret data I see flying all over the interwebs, draw some conclusions, and then use educated assumptions to test the stuff in real life. Generally things in real life turn out different than the engineers expect...which is why people who are actually fast on the track/street HIDE SO MUCH INFORMATION

As far as a different alloy, FJT isnt a metallurgist, he is just a guy like me who sells a lot of parts, and his custom rod is a way to sell another product and make a buck. I am not faulting him for that or anyone who decides to use this rod...I just see ZERO benefit to using it based on cars I have tuned.

It's like putting an MSD product on any Honda that makes 1-700 hp, it just isnt needed

nsxmatt

Because stock Honda pistons have strong ringlands right?

We got people promoting 7.x:1 compression ratios over factory and stock pistons with eagle rods. All we need is some FMU's, bring the old silver bullet CRX back and 1995 will be back in full effect.

Quick tell Miller to pull that 12.x:1 setup out of his car so he can make some real power!

slowhitEJ1

Well then on the setup I have now, same tires, same wheels, same motor, tune everything, as it sets, someone give me advice on how to run a second better because I'm at a loss right now.. Insted of telling me how horrible it is, help me make it better without buyin more ****..

Drag4Life723

no **** my car is 9.8:1 with 21psi and i love it! i wish i would have went a little higher. My old vitara set was fun under boost but thats about it.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Buy slicks that's the best way to get ur time down. And a lot more seat time just keep practicing. If you don't preload that's when you start breaking trannys and axels. Make sure when you at the light your not just dumping the clutch. Get to the line. Put your car in first. Hold your e brake rev your motor to about 6-7000 rpm let the clutch out till you feel it start to grab then as the light come down drop ur e brake and clutch on green. Instant 1.6's

0xenocron

LOL...did you just compare Miller's $100k+ Race Car on Q16 to a (typically) Sub $3000 COMPLETE setup (including the cost of the car) on pump gas

I think I just sharted in my pants