DraginX

Just watching the classifieds I see all kinds of engines for sale boasting 7-800whp but no aftermarket crank pulley is mentioned.
But when searching everyone says you need one for high hp. My last build I made a little over 500 with stock sleeves and a stock crank pulley we had kicking around the shop. But I was running a pro drive oil pump. I know having a crank pulley is good insurance but at what level do you guys think it is an absolute must? Since there is very little upgrades now a days for oil pump so it seems everyone is stick with stock, what do you guys think the power level is if you have a good pump and is shimmed to where it should be to run center of the crank.
Please post up you setups and what power you have made with stock pump and pulley.

slowboy90

ive never shimmed a b series oil pump and i made 710whp on a stock pulley just a new one... this year ill be running a fluidampr or ati super damper but can someone chime in on shimming the oil pump for b series revving to probably 10.5 or so.. OP most nhra sanctioned tracks "require" them lol

HybridKOOP

I could be wrong, but I don't think changing out to a damper such as an ATI or Fluidampr has a direct correlation to "horsepower". I think it's tied much more to very high RPM's, and more violent driving habits, obviously including track use.

Topdawgg

I messaged Tony wayyyyy back when I shattered my first oil pump, I asked him what the best options were and what he ran. He told me that an OEM pump with a good pulley (ATI or Fluidampr) and call it a day..

I bought an ATI and havent had an issue since..

nonvtecallmotor

X2

DraginX

I still remember that day and the look on your face, it was a good day til that point!

I guess it isn't really shimming it, you check the clearances around the crank to pump gear, and make sure it is centered. It isn't bad if the crank journals haven't been line bored as it's usually dead on from factory. But if they have been line bored the crank can sit a little higher in the oil pump causing it to be slightly out of balance. So to correct it you file the bolt holes out slightly to move the pump up until you have equal gap around the pump and crank putting it back to center.
As for the tracks requiring them, around here they are just starting to crack down on cages, so a pulley isn't going to set them off.

I'm pretty sure I'll go with a fluidampr or ATI, but just wanted to hear more about peoples thoughts on this. I was going to mention how high people were reving their cars on stock pullies also but got sidetracked 3/4 of the way throught the original post as my baby girl was throwing food on the floor...lol

sweetfwdthunder

iTrader: (2)

I used to run a stock pulley and a ctr...i broke oil pumps with both of those. I got a used stock oil pump from one of my buddies and bought an ATI and haven't had any problems since

92redhatch

After about 400whp on slicks at the track my alternator belt would either flip or fly off. On the street And dyno i wouldnt have an issue. I switched to an ATI and it solved my issue. Now I make 522whp And have been to the track a few times with no issues. On this setup i havent had an oil pump break. I use to bring 3 extra alternator belts with me to the track lol. An ATI is definitely worth the money.

Casey

iTrader: (5)

on this topic if anyone is in the market, jhpusa has b and k ati street dampers on sale for 319.99 plus shipping. i used jhp5 code for 5 percent off, got mine for 325 shipped.

just wanted to pass on the deal

portenio78

iTrader: (1)

Just do it bro. Ati will solve this problem. It did for me.

Divers

Stock oil pump and stock crank pulley. 10k+ rpm and 1000+hp for two years with no failure.

MR.johnson

OMG B16

My last street 2.0l b-series didn't like 10krpm and stock crank pulley, shattered the oil pump gear, it only had ~5k miles on it.

Topdawgg

time to smash those numbers this year.... LONG overdue!

DDTECH

Crank pullys, clutches, flywheels will all come into play at higher rpms to make sure there's no unbalancement.

I personally had my last b20vtec beat the mains out because my clutch had seperated itself. A few months later , i'm rebuilding due to spun bearings. Didn't know until i took the motor apart.

I also shim all oil pumps a bit.

Watch your motor at idle while its spinning, if the crank pully is looking funky while spinning you got a problem lol.. but stock should be good for majority of the setups.

turbotypeR@SPEC

I think it should be stated that yours is an H22. B-series responds totally different to a damper than a H. I have seen all sort of people have issues on H22's with anything but a stock damper. But with a B-series, it seems to be quite the opposite.

littlebluecrx

agree.... either way oil pump gears that are driven directly by the crank need a balancer... without one it's just a matter of time before they break, regardless of pump gear material...they live fine up to around 10k and 600 whp once you start pushing past there they break quick... K series definetly different storie...

Divers

Yeah, sorry about that. I should have clarified it was a H22, but all our cars in the shop get the oem treatment. 90% of those are b-series. I'm not arguing, I don't think the aftermarket dampeners are a bad idea. I just think its more important to have everything balanced. Oil pumps aren't breaking because of the crank pulley. They break because what ever is causing the harmonics is more then what the crank pulley can absorb.

DDTECH

exactly...

xohcef

9000+ stock damper and pump. I don't wanna buy a damper, that's 65% of my 650$ longbock. Lol

Rtype16

On our H22 motors we used stock pumps with stock pulley no problems, we used prodrive gear with stock pulley no problem, we used prodrive gear with ATI no problem. We have used every combination and not had a problem. Some things are just an added insurance type of thing. But the most important thing is to make sure everything is within spec and balanced. As andykaizenspeed said.

Just to put another thing out there our head bolts were stock. Did we ever use ARP studs nope. Always used stock bolts and had no problem and yes motors were making over 1000 hp. We never re-used them though if the motor came apart new parts always went in.

Steeve_Civic

Is a ATI lighter than OEM one?

a1320honda

I talked to Reid at Kaizen a couple years back after i shattered a pump with a CTR pulley (duh) and he told me to use OEM. So i had an OEM pulley on the car for over 3 years revving to 10500 rpm and making over 700whp with 0 issues.

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

does a oem f20b single groove pulley count as "stock"?
the post above me says "ctr" pulley, isnt that a single groove?

sanman000719

well im still on a stock pulley @757, and 10,200 rpms with no issues.

i did spin a bearing due to clutch backing bolts out lol