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I just thought I would do a real quick write up of what I did. Again it may not be the best way. But is one way to do it. When I did it wasn't a lot of helpful info. If it helps one person wondering how to Get 10 Gauge wiring setup koo. Yes probably only good till certain hp 600 hp or so. But am not trying to go for 800 hp and -8AN Feed and -6AN Return. I have a 94-97 Acura Integra so I believe it came with the Banjo Type Feed Line on the OEM top hat. I believe 98-01 May have done away with that and used 2 hard lines no banjo on the feed. I haven't had an issues with the way I have done it. I am at 500 whp Turbo 2.3L Built.

My fuel system is simple: 10 Gauge wire, Power from Alternator, 30 amp inline breaker. Ground to Ground on Battery. Bosch Relay. 1150cc Grams, Aero Stealth intank 340, -6 feed from OEM banjo hole on top hat and OEM return. 67% duty pump gas.

I will start with the more complicated question people ask:
How Do You Get the 10 Gauge Wires into the OEM hanger?

Simple I used the OEM way. Which was Ground wire to hanger then the 10 Gauge Power to the Spade OEM connector. I de-pinned the Aero 340 connector at the pump and finessed the 10 gauge in there with sodering. So both wires are 10 Gauge.

I still used the top hat OEM spade connectors. I simply just broke one side of the connector in order to get and put some space between the 2 spades. I used a tight insulated Female Connector and Connected 10 Gauge to each of the wires. Made sure the connection was a tight and snug fit.

I used the B&R Fittings Banjo Feed to -6AN 90 degree fitting. Then simply ran -6AN line and inline micron filter. I am still using smaller return line like OEM. If you are going for crazy power. This is where the 98-01 Integra Dual Hard Line and No Banjo may come in handy. Then can use the -6AN Quick Disconnect Feed that some used on Feed but would now be your -6AN RETURN. However you will still need to figure out solution for the Feed now that are using OEM Feed as Return. Most seem to drill out the OLD Return pipe and install the bulkhead fitting mentioned in the picture ATL believe makes it. JBtuned.com also has a kit. Now 2nd option would be ideal for serious hp people who want -8AN Feed and -6AN Return. I probably wont every go this route.

Why not use the new bulkhead wire connector fittings? I am little iffy on them. I only see 12 and 14 Gauge Wire Options. Not 10 Gauge. I also seen some people modify enlarge the wire holes to put in 10 Gauge. That makes me little iffy too on sealing. Some people have experience gas trickeling through the wire. However I believe this is mainly for those not using made for gas wiring etc.Just seems like little more of a headache. Like I have mentioned. I haven't run into any problems doing it the way I did.

Only thing I may do but do not see huge purpose right now is Delete the smaller OEM return hardline and either weld up new larger hardline or use newer bulkhead fitting.

quickhondaz

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There is a few ways it can be done. But to average person boosting under 700 hp... -6AN Feed and stock return will work. I don't see the need to mess with 2 wire bulkhead fitting and ditching the OEM connector. Put ground to hanger... more than enough surface to make good contact then power like OEM with spade connection through... again I think spade has enough surface without voltage drop... Voltage drop I think would be miniscule. If you are 10 gauge even if voltage drop was miniscule it would be still better then 12 or 14 gauge.

Only reason I wouldn't use epoxy or any other suposively gas or oil complient sealant just a mess then your really no better than using the aftermarket 2 wire bulkhead fitting. Would have to check on it or re seal. My saying is also keep it simple OEM way wont ever leak.

-------------- The ONLY way I would not do getting the wires through the Top Hat is to use rubber grommet and studs and washers teflon or even metal.... What can happen? Your studs will continutely able to make contact through the grommet and will pretty much either ground out on gas tank or power gas tank. What happens then... you will be frying your wires for the pump and sending unit ----------------------------

quickhondaz

quickhondaz

quickhondaz

quickhondaz

seelback

Here's how i did mine. I ended up running a 8awg ground wire to the grounding point on the hanger and it goes from the grounding point on the hanger to the chassis, ground wire also went through the appleton cord grip with the power wire. Please excuse the rust, its what i was working with, i ended up cleaning it up. 8awg power/ground. 8an feed, 6an return.

myblackhatch

Here is the hanger with the JBtuned Walbro 450 Hanger Mod Kit Installed




JBtuned Walbro 450 hanger Mod Kit



Does not get much cleaner than this. This is the 6AN kit but 8AN is available and its also available for the 340/320 pumps.

ESP.net

Yea I have seen the JBtuned... I liked the 94-97 integra Hanger because could use 90 degree to -6 or -8..... factory banjo bolt hole for -6 or -8 feed... but JBtuned in picture is 98-01 Integra Hanger which has 2 hard lines on the hanger.. which I do like the idea of using a larger feed line as new return... the basic way I did with the 94-97 Hanger probably good for upwards of 600+ pump gas non E85. Other hanger probably smart for 600+ and E85.

the only thing I am iffy on is says 12-14 gauge for that fitting... Suprise ATL does not make a 10 gauge. Enlarging it to 10 gauge in that fitting may be asking for issue. Also some issues about wicking... gas getting through the wire it self if do not have special wiring... one reason why I like to keep the wiring in the pump and use the OEM way of running wire through... with hanger as ground and spade for power...but there is a few ways to do it

myblackhatch

Here is a picture of the banjo style hanger for an EF Civic which I believe is the same as the 95-96 hangers in the Integra's and also EG civics. This is from the JBtuned website. Looks like you remove/drill out the banjo all together.



The reason I personally like the kit is because they do not use hard 90's like you were showing for the banjo because putting a hard 90 in your system just causes cavitation. Its an easy thing to avoid to just use smooth bend fittings so why not when available.

I personally have been running the hanger kit for over a year now and have never had any wicking issues. I even just went and looked at my connectors apart again to be sure and they are clean as new.

Running 10AWG cant hurt but I use 12awg which I think is overkill. I use a high quality Tefzel wire and there is no issues ever no matter how hard I beat on the car. I think the people who fry the wiring with these pumps are because they either use cheap wire or do not ground the pumps properly. I have a supra shop locally who just builds wiring harnesses and they use 14awg on the same pump and he said he has never had an issue but again he has a perfect ground location and uses Tefzel wire.

Also, If you did want to use 10AWG and you went with a Tefzel wire I bet you would find that the wire fits perfectly due to the smaller jacket size of the wire itself. Going with quality wire really cuts down on the size of the wires jacket/shielding.

quickhondaz

that's exactly what I did with mine. I drilled out the banjo fitting and then tapped it for an NPT/AN fitting I had. (M14x1.25 to -8an if I remember correctly)
for the return line, I simply cut it off the top and bottom of the hanger, drilled a hole larger enough for another M14x1.25 to -8an fitting and then used Teflon washers and a brass nut on the bottom to tie it in. I almost kept the return line like it was, but decided since I already had the fittings, why not use them. I also used smooth transition 90's for both feed and return. they stick up through the floor and I am currently fabbing up a cover to sort of hide it, but mostly to keep the outside world outside.

integrawillie

I absolutely despise spades. I just used an oem m6 capscrew and nut as a stud for my power after I trimmed the plastic off the top of the original power wire bulkhead. Slips right into the oem insulator
through the hanger.

denvercody

Thanks everyone for sharing

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I am iffy about the bolt going through the connector... like I said did the bolt and stud thing before ended up frying wires because the gas tank was either being grounded or powered ha