ESP.net

Hello, I had an issue upon initially starting the car up first time with the new motor. NA before everything worked fine. Gauges fuel sending unit etc. etc. My issue is my Blk/White wire going to the Fuel Sending Unit had melted and made a mess. It melted some of the connected 2 wires Yellow and Blue/White wire. It appears the culprit is the Black/White wire that goes to the Fuel Sending Unit. It fried all the way to the plug.

What could have caused this? I have checked fuse # 15 10 AMP in my 95 integra GSR and it is fine. I believe this is used for the Fuel Sending Unit.

What has changed since before... I added a 96 jdm spec ITR gauge cluster and believe I might of swapped the green film on back to GSR one 94-96. Either way should of worked fine with each film on back of cluster. I also added Aeromotive 340 stealth fuel pump and the relay necessary. It appears I have done the wiring all correctly. 2 wires from stock harness to trigger relay. Yellow/Green (positive) and Black/White (large) (ground). Inline kill switch to the positive wire Yellow/Green. I ran the positive 10 gauge wire from alternator directly with inline 30 amp breaker to the trigger of relay. Then 10 gauge relay to Fuel pump. Then I ran negative Fuel Pump all the way up to thermostat housing of engine to make a good ground.

Fuel Sending Unit wire that melted is a small Black/White wire... what caused... this to heat up and melt?

Please any help would be greatly appreciated.... Fuel Sending Unit has 3 wires.... Blk/White, Yellow/Silver Dots, and Blue/White wire... I believe Blk/White wire is ground... Yellow is power...? What caused the Blk/White wire to get heat and power to it???



Correct procedure below:

xci_ed6

got a wiring diagram?

Blown90hatcH

That melted wire is wired such that it is getting voltage for it to do that. You need to double check your wiring that you installed and make sure you don't have a power/ground switched.

ESP.net

Well I have singled it out to the 1 Blk/White wire. I have secluded this wire to keep it from frying the others.

Main relay stock is in the car.

Upon melting the wire the first time which grounds to G502 up at the driver seat door sill area with the Large Blk/White Fuel Pump Negative wire.

I have now grounded it off to the side of the back seat area. By itself. I have from the door sill area know good wires... spliced in the yellow/white wire and blue/white wire to go back to the fuel sending unit. These wires do not have the issue that the Blk/White one does. It is obviously getting power some where and frying...

The below picture is how I have my wiring for the Fuel Pump.... Only thing I could possibly think of that was wired in reverse would be the fuel pump 10 gauge positive and negative wires directly to the pump. But I don't believe this to be plausable. However the Fuel Pump works like it should and car starts and runs... fuel pump clicks/humms upon ignition like suppose to be. Fuel Pump is a Aeromotive 340 stealth.

Here is the last thing of the equation. I have installed a 96 Spec JDM Type R Integra cluster which is a direct bolt in for the 94-97 tegs.

I have done the ohm test on the Sending Unit. It's ressistance is in its proper rangine. Yesterday I was also able to get 5 volts from the harness. Also jumping the wires I was able to get the Fuel Gauge needle to go up. Today upon re wiring again... no volts and no needle rise.

The other thing the Gauge Cluster is doing is upon ignition the Speedo unit/needle will rise to 40 mph.

Engine wiring harness is the same harness I have had in the car which was trouble free.

I had the motor NA. Built the motor. Now is turbo. Dropped it all back in with gauges etc. and methanol kit wired up and new

ESP.net

Below is how I have my Fuel Pump

ESP.net

I triple checked the wiring to the Fuel Pump... it is correct. I added the above diagram in the last post of the Fuel Pumps ground I had it go all the way up to the thermostat housing for the best ground available...

Okay todays test. I hooked up my new blk/white fuel sending ground to the chassis near the rear seat area.

Given: Already checked out the ohm ressistance of the Sending unit, out of the car. It checks out within spec.
E 105-110... 1/2 25.39.5....F 2-5

Fuel Gauge Test: voltmeter pos to yel/white wire and neg to blk/white wire. Should be between 5-8 volts it is 6 volts.

Low Fuel Indicator Light Test: Blk/White wire and Blue/White wire connect the 2 with a jumper wire. Low Fuel Light now comes on.


Below is the wiring diagram...

ESP.net

Connected 3P Fuel Sending Unit harness up to Fuel Sending unit with the 2 pig tails/jumpers on Yel/White and Blk/White wire to connect both wires to voltmeter. Volts should be quite less then the current volt of 5-8 volts factory specs which was 6 volts when tested. It is 2.65 volts... steady. As ignition is on... the Blk/White wire is starting to smoke just a tiny bit at this time. Caught it in time. Something is putting power to this ground? I cannot figure it out.... Only option I see at this point is to purchase a known new sending unit and hope...?

backdraft

Not sure honestly. It looks like you cut and spliced some wires on your fuel pump and I am not sure if you cut ones on the sending unit either, but I would check to make sure that your realy is set up correctly and make sure you that there is not any voltage on the sending units wire that goes to the guage. I am pretty sure that it only sends out a resistance measurement. But then again, I am not an expert on wiring.

This link might help.
http://www.xenocron.com/install/FuelPumpRelay.htm

ESP.net

I traced down the Speedo issue... trouble shooted with the oem manual for VSS and was just the needle being off... since needles were swapped. Took needle off... put it in the car... let it settle which is 0 then place needle back on.

I have double checked on the wires I have spiced and are correct. I did a continuity test to make sure on each from the side seat area under the door sill back to the fuel sending unit area. Wires were only ones alike with there color and stripe and dot color.

If someone knows in detail exactly of the black wire on the sending unit would be great. It appears to be the ground. Which is grounded stock to G502 near door sill/seat area with the Fuel Pump Neg wire. With a brass/Copper large terminal. I have a cheap butt connector/crimp on eyelid as a ground.

ESP.net

Ive seen that Xenocron diagram... I am not sure if it matters if 85 and 86 are reversed? I was always taught Evens are In and Odds are out on relays????

Xenocron has his stock negative to 86
Then has 85 for positive? Could this be my issue?

I also do not have negative coming from relay going to stock harness black/white negative. I have it going straight to ground with an inline 2 prong kill switch. The negative of the stock fuel pump harness is simply grounded as well to chassis. (Not ran to relay) Only wire I have going to relay from stock harness is positive to 86 out of the 2 stock fuel pump wires.

ESP.net

Someone let me know if the wiring to relay is right?

0xenocron

Switching 85 and 86 wont matter.

ESP.net

Thank you much appreciated

ESP.net

Fuel Sending Unit:
Blk/White wire is a ground- which is frying
Yellow/White middle one goes to the box/ressistor
Blue/White goes to the idicator float for the light on cluster

I have taken a continuity at the gauge cluster harness on the yellow/white wire and yellow/white wire near the tank and the blue/white wire next to it on gauge cluster down to its wire near the tank... both light up... I also grounded each to make sure none were open and touching the frame. No light, no ground.

ESP.net

I installed a new used integra Fuel Sending Unit which checked out on the voltmeter far as ohms

I used 1 wire each end to connect to each terminal of the Fuel Sending unit... with the car on... blk/white is not getting any volts...yellow/white middle wire is not getting any volts...however the Blue/White wire for the indicator light is getting 12 volts. This seem normal?....

I started the car again without the Blk/White ground Fuel Sending Unit wire hooked up... then I touched it to a bolt head ground and instant melt down of the wire... I am lost???

I then once again re sodered the black/white wire up with new wire 20 gauge like stock what I have been using... yel/white wire positive of voltmeter and negative on blk/white... blk/white grounded with car on... 7.3 volts just like spec of 5-8 volts. I also jumped the blue/white wire to blk/white wire with blk/white ground and car on and indicator light goes on....

I am stumped at this point... what is the worst that happens if I de pin the black/white wire to the sending unit and do away with it... no worky of the fuel gauge light? let alone the low fuel indicator light? I would imagine still get hot and melt the plug? or nothing with it not being grounded anymore?

89turboaccord

Obd1 car with obd2 cluster?

Quick Google search.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/11-generation-three/188465-fuel-gauge-doesnt-work-always-e-fixed.html#/forumsite/20853/topics/188465

ESP.net

Ive seen that thread on the jdm clusters. My yellow/white wire is in b3 like suppose to be and believe b4 is the blu/white wire that both go to sending unit...

Supposively my 96 spec r cluster was suppose to be plug n play for 94 to 97 teg. Icb n password also say this in there description of the 96 spec r cluster.

Now this is an obd2 cluster. I will need to double check green film part numbers between 94-95 and 96 and 97. 94 to 97 have a non angled srs light. 98+ are angled. Also seems 94 to 97 green film 723A i have 3 clusters all are 723A on green film.

Now the difficult thing here is i have swapped a bit... the case is not the 96 spec r anymore...i used an old gsr case which isnt original to the car and green film... i used all gauges gsr except the tach which is 96 spec r. Just maybe the film is 723a obd2

Maybe the 96 n 97 films still have a 723a part number... but wish i could have someone know exactly whats different on green film.

ESP.net

Cross referenced all gauges and green panel print from 94 to 97 is the same... makes sense all gauges i have 723a on panel print...

Far as that thread on obd2 clusters i think they are reffering to 98+ cars...eventho 96 n 97 is obd2

ESP.net

With the ignition on:

Voltmeter negative grounded to chassis and power wire on each wire:

I am getting 11.8/12v to the blue/white wire on the cluster wire side It is also the same on the Fuel Sending Harness Plug side

I am getting 7.3 volts on the Yellow/White wire on the cluster wire side. It is also the same on the Fuel Sending Harness Plug side.

I am no electrical guru here... Called Aeromotive they said should be no volts... however videos etc say different and what I have is correct on voltage for both wires...

raene

Internal short in the pump? Are you able to check resistance across the terminals against a known-good pump?

ESP.net

Welp what a pain ha... Fuel Pump was indeed grounding out on the top hat. Negative stud was shortenin through the thin rubber grommet.... used my other fuel pump hanger took out n de-pinned 20 gauge wire n pinned up 10 gauge.... problem fixed...i am keeping my inline fuse on the ground blk/white sending unit wire just incase...

Adam Krazispeed

my friend did this to me on my 1994 honda civic del sol vtec b16a3 obd1 vtec

he plugged in my two dash wiring harness plugs in opposite than where they should have went,, the fuze box grey plug was connected to the gauge cluster harness , and the other plug was connected to the car wiring harness? and the gauges/ lights were malfunctioning till i reversed the plugs it was the two large connectors? there were identical but different color, but it didn't fry any wires (that i know of anyway) but my fuel gauge will not function as it should, as its very erratic,
at full tank full fill up its fine, but @ 3/4 tank its already on 1/2 tank on gauge,
then after that its at E on gauge till about 1/4 to 1/8th tank?
its fine and seems accurate then??? WTF??? so idk, everything was fine with the fuel gauge till the dash had to be removed to replace the Heater core???
once everything was back together ( when two plugs were backwards) the tach and speedo would jump up when turning on the headlights, or turn signals or brights would malfunction the gauges, dont remember exactly what it was doing but like this u are saying, check your wire harnesses pugs, and other wiring?

all i know is once i swapped the to dashe wiring plugs everything was fine, except the fuel gauge not working as intended or as it should,, was fine before the heater core replacement, dash removal, all grounds are wired where they were, but also had a BS alarm system that wasnt even hooked up was removed and some wiring was cut and my friend removed that alram wiring harness as well so idk ther is a blue/green looking wire that has been cut but even connecteed, it does nothing??? so odd tho too?? where is this wire going.coming from, may not be the exact color? but it was just laying there spliced, with tape over both ends,

wire as is *wire* dash harness or not sure*____________________ -open here- _______________car wiring+

-open here- is right below the fuse box on driver side just before going under the carpet/// and up into the dash

ESP.net

This took forever to figure out... I replaced the sending unit...I have also replaced the Fuel Gauge 2-3 times...with other gauge clusters I had... It would rise up to beyond full like if it was in its testing stage.... I just recently been driving the car and I think the last gauge swap was the trick....

Jayden Sinclair

I have same problem dues 10 is headlight on one side an I have 3 wires to sending unit but the red an green one goes to no wear