rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

do you need to run the proportional valve with the booster delete kit or can you just run a T to the left and right front brakes for race cars?

ahobbs

you dont need a prop valve

guy_from_nerk

I should mention that my brake line broke due to rubbing, but still left me without any brake what so ever.

Here is how I did mine




and then ran the rear lines to the back brakes

Zer0_SpeedWorks

iTrader: (1)

James,what kind of wilwood prop valve are you using?

fast is fun

use integra master cylinder & wilwood prop on the rear

B18c1turboedEK

iTrader: (1)

Matt this is how i did mine.

turbo-2nr

^what MC is that? pics from other angles? and just front or front and rear?

B18c1turboedEK

iTrader: (1)

It's the kens kustom one. I run just the fronts.

JTauto

For you guys just running front brakes how does it stop? I'm in a very big debate to just run the fronts and for the rears put in a staging brake..

Patterson

Where did you get your lines? Also when you come out into the wheel well are you going into the stock mounting tab with a fitting or running straight to the caliper? Reason I asked is I have SS from the tab out if it would even be worth messing with or just run the line all the way

SPOOLINmatt

matt im running mine just like above but to the stock changeover bulkhead in the wheel well. the lines above is goodridge -3 brake line. It cost me like 60$ in fittings. If i have some line left over this week ill just give it to you. Im pretty sure i have enough for my fronts and another civic's fronts. you just need a 10mm x 1.0 male inverted flare to -3 male flare fitting for the wheel wells.

bads2k

some people are saying dont use the rear brakes with this and some people say it's no issues. I'm wanting to know for sure before I run my setup for this year. right now I have the wilwood setup with the "t" so it runs to rear lines as well. should I change up and get rid of the prop valve and just run from the master cylinder to a "t" and then to the front brakes without the rear brakes hooked up at all? I'm on skinnies in the rear.

turbotypeR@SPEC

Rear brakes are for staging. They don't help you much on the big end.

MARC P

x2

B18c1turboedEK

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to the stock location and doing what Matt said. But I might redo it and go all the way to caliper so I can get rid of the stock hose I think I have like 50 feet left if anyone needs any. I have no use for it all .

JTauto

Thanks!

midnightStretch

im doing the same the right now to my integra. going straight to the calipers in the front and rear are staging only

13173

I am getting ready to tackle my booster delete setup. I may be interested in that extra hose. I think there is a hydraulic specialty shop not far from my house that can handle the fittings on the hose.

I have no experience with using only front brakes on a car. My car is not going to be a complete race car. It will certainly see some time on the streets. I am assuming that I should run rear brakes on a street car, however, the car is not going to be that heavy. Not really building it for any certain class so it may not be as heavy as some of your cars. I know that I have read or heard of a couple street cars with only front brakes, but as I said, I have no experience with that at all. What do you all think? On the street I should not have skinnies on the back, but at the track I may run some at some point. I am thinking that I need front and rear brakes plumbed from the MC and prop valve.

Patterson

Thanks, just holler at me if you think your going to be able to spare some. Most of my stuff will not be here till next week.

bads2k

so if we do just the front brakes off the pedal then we just T off the MC straight to the front brakes without any prop valve?

ahobbs

^^^^yes

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

sorry to bump an old thread but I'm setting up a boosterless system, thinking about the wilwood 3/4" master. My question is...How's the pedal effort compared to a stock system? Is it drastic like if you were to lose all vacuum on a stock system or is it minimal that you can correct yourself in an emergency maneuver?

1lowek2007

The pedal is very stiff, but works great honestly. Just takes time grtting used to. But yes it will stop no problem in an emergency maneuver. Ive had to stop very very quickly at 170+ mph and this has done the job. I run the wilwood 7/8"

SPOOLINmatt

ok so, ive had to wrap a rag around the reservoir and zip tie it because everytime i stop after a run i get fluid sprayed on my firewall paint. I can not figure out where its coming from. All fittings are always dry, hose is tight, and it seems like i can't find any wetness even on the reservoir. But after i wrapped the reservoir it stopped spraying on my firewall. Anyone encountered something similar?

g2turbo

I just picked up a car with a manual setup... must say its taking some time getting used to on the street.

I'm trying to get down the track in a few weeks, that will be a different story.

Sounds like you guys aren't having any issues thought at 135+mph? Just curious, what is the point of running without a booster?