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Just purchased a Walbro 450LPH. I had my 255LPH wired with 10 gauge and a relay but I noticed people said to go with 8 gauge to prevent the wires from burning up. The pump only pulls like 19 amps max and I can't imagine needing 8 gauge. Any insight to this?
Depends on how far you are running the power. The longer the distance you need to run for power the thicker the gauge you need.
i have a question, and need some help. I currently have a 485 walbro/rc 1200cc setup, car has 2 tunes for 2 fuel types. makes 427whp on 93, and 557whp on q16. Currently if i want to run the q16 setup i have to siphon the 93 out the oem tank, pour in q16 toggle a switch for the q16 tune. to swap back to 93(which is mostly what it runs) i have to siphon again, pour in 93, hit the switch and go. Now, my question is... b/c siphonign gas back n forth is annoying AF. how would i go about running a 2nd 5 gallon tank setup, and wiring the 2 pumps to seperate switches, so i could essentially toggle whichever pump i wanna run, and switch back and forth at the hit of a switch? i've seen FCS battery location fuel cell setup, thinkin of mounting a cell there and running inline setup and bridge into AN fitting on rail? i'm kinda new to custom fuel line setups, etc. any help greatly appreciated... i'm tired of siphoning gas back n forth...
1.Car - 1993 Si
2.Type of fuel Setup - In tank
-what type of filter/ how many? - 2 filters. Stock in tank, and aeromotive 10 micron as a post filter.
-type of fuel pressure regulator - Aeromotive A1000-6B.
-Fuel rail - Rosko Racing
-Feed and return size - Feed is stock hardline to -6, Return is stock hardline to -6.
3.Horsepower/approximate Hp level - 220ish
I'm still learning how fuel setups work.
-Does it matter where in fuel system I place my post filter?
-I'd like to do it after the FPR, would that work?
-I'm still confused on the actual routing of the return line, would this work:
Stock line enters engine bay > Braided line > Filter > Fuel Rail > FPR > Stock hardline return exiting engine bay.
Civic ex 97
Walbro 255lph W/30amp Relay (10ga wire from battery).
-6an feed tank to rail
Stock return under car, -6an from regulator to stock line.
AEM regulator
stock rail
Idle pressure 55psi
404whp/289tq 18-19psi
Since i swapped The -6an feed line, the pressure at first dropped to 40psi. Fixed it with the regulator to 55psi, but the wideband is a little more lean than before. How can i know if my walbro is dying? (this is the 3rd in 7 years)
Well I just got done re-doing my fuel pump setup. Previously I used a Walbro 255LPH with regular parts store 12 gauge wiring and all crimp on connectors. The fittings on the pump cover were also straight up requiring 90 degree hose ends which didn't fit under the stock tank access cover.
The new setup is the Walbro 450LPH E85 pump, and high quality oversized 10 gauge wire. I changed the connection on the pump from a Metripack 280 to a Metripack 630, and used the 630's also to do a sealed relay and a sealed fuse all on a panel in the trunk. The pump cover is a -6AN and -4AN using 90 degree forged bulkheads cut down weld angled hose barbs on the bottom in the tank. I also DIY zinc plated the whole cover so it would never rust. It wasn't very pretty, but for my first time it came out functional.
will the dual 044's be ok with out a sumped tank and just be pulling from a modified top lid? or possibly using the full blown setup with out the pumps. so that way i don't have to modify my stock setup incase i ever want to go back lol..
don't want to sump my tank. whats the best bet. and how much can it support
Well I just got done re-doing my fuel pump setup. Previously I used a Walbro 255LPH with regular parts store 12 gauge wiring and all crimp on connectors. The fittings on the pump cover were also straight up requiring 90 degree hose ends which didn't fit under the stock tank access cover.
The new setup is the Walbro 450LPH E85 pump, and high quality oversized 10 gauge wire. I changed the connection on the pump from a Metripack 280 to a Metripack 630, and used the 630's also to do a sealed relay and a sealed fuse all on a panel in the trunk. The pump cover is a -6AN and -4AN using 90 degree forged bulkheads cut down weld angled hose barbs on the bottom in the tank. I also DIY zinc plated the whole cover so it would never rust. It wasn't very pretty, but for my first time it came out functional.
I did something similar to this on my buddy's car. I will post pictures, vids and results when car is running and on the dyno. I may post my current progress soon. Im liking how you did yours, great idea!!!
Here's how I did a oem hanger mod for the walbro 450 pump. 8 gauge power wire coming straight from the battery with a stinger fuse holder and stinger 20 amp fuse, stinger relay, 8 gauge ground wire bolted to the hanger with the ground wire coming off the fuel pump and the ground wire is going from the factory bolt location on the hanger to the chassis. the factory fuel pump power wire will switch the relay on. feed is 6an bulkhead stepped up to 8an, couldnt get a 8an bulkhead to fit right. 6an return all the way. the power and ground wire are going through a appleton cord grip, i had to add a hole so both could go through. had to trim the hanger a bit, feed stayed in the factory location but factory return location had to be welded closed and moved over. I will be doing a write up with details of the setup and results. figured i'd get this out there.
I think the most difficult part is wiring out of the pump hanger. ATS makes a fuel cell wiring bulkhead but it sticks straight up and then closing the factor pump cover might be difficult. I used a weedwhacker 3 hole fuel tank grommet and filled in the holes with Dirko sealant which is fuel and oil safe. I found Dirko is the only sealant both Stihl lawn equipment and Porsche uses to assemble their motors. I like the 90 degree one you used. On my Walbro 255 I used the factory connector and upgraded the wiring before and after. Unfortunately it is limited and the 10 gauge I used would never fit.
[QUOTE=seelback;51008677]Here's how I did a oem hanger mod for the walbro 450 pump. 8 gauge power wire coming straight from the battery with a stinger fuse holder and stinger 20 amp fuse, stinger relay, 8 gauge ground wire bolted to the hanger with the ground wire coming off the fuel pump and the ground wire is going from the factory bolt location on the hanger to the chassis. the factory fuel pump power wire will switch the relay on. feed is 6an bulkhead stepped up to 8an, couldnt get a 8an bulkhead to fit right. 6an return all the way. the power and ground wire are going through a appleton cord grip, i had to add a hole so both could go through. had to trim the hanger a bit, feed stayed in the factory location but factory return location had to be welded closed and moved over. I will be doing a write up with details of the setup and results. figured i'd get this out there. / QUOTE]
Nice work. I'm about to swap out my 255 for a 450 but I had/have no experience with the wiring. After I pulled apart the 4 wire harness inside the car I was confused how the pump was turning on as I tapped power from the battery to the 12 volt feed of the pump. I figured the pump had to be grounded underneath somehow. Then I started wondering about how the pump knew how to shut off. The pump doesn't just go full blast all the time when the power is fed to it does it? I have mine wired to a relay right now that has the coil of the relay being fed from a switched source when the ignition comes on. After research I saw some fuel pump systems pulsate the ground wire to control flow, is that how our Honda systems work or does the pump have some sort of full locked rotor(FLA) sensing feature or switch?
Does anyone know what adapter(s) I would need to use to be able to test fuel pressure from my -6an hose before it hits my fuel rail? I have a Lang fuel pressure tester kit but am certain I won't be able to test my lines with what I have right now.
Does anyone run an inline check valve to hold some residual pressure on a hot restart? With a bypass regulator it will never maintain pressure for long, but it will usually hold 20PSI for a couple minutes. Aeromotive told me to just set the fuel priming cycle to 8-10 minutes, which IIRC only KPRO V4 does and not the S300 V3, I've been through 2 JEGS/Summit/Earls all failing not sealing at all within the first half hour of use. Aeromotive recommended me to the Russel brand one for the fact that it uses Viton which is can squish some to seal versus teflon in the JEGS/Summit/Earls brand. Fuel Lab makes a nice one but it is in the same unit as the filter housing and is extremely pricey! Is it even needed?
04-22-2016, 07:50 PM
Re: **Post your Fuel System and Questions**
