branscoset

I have been scratching my head all morning.

My 1982 Honda Accord Ek1 wont turn off by key. I can't find any info relating to older Honda's on this problem, only newer computer controlled.

I have not done any real mods or changes lately to cause this.

The car will start fine, but will not turn off.

To turn it off I have been pulling the fuel pump regulator fuse and disconnecting battery.

While running, I have disconnected 2 pig tail connectors for the ignition, one at the fuse block that is a 6 prong I believe and one that is mid wire coming from same harness that is 2 prong. Car does not stop. In theory this eliminates my ignition switch as a faulty? Correct?

I was going to remove the entire ignition so I could examine it out of the vehicle. However, the control module has 2 screws holding it to the steering column, that have no head on them. I cant see any way to remove those 2 screw without drilling them out.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

If it comes down to it, ill install a toggle switch to kill power to the ignition or something along those lines.

EDIT: NEW battery, cap+rotor, battery terminals, starter.

realred96

Contacts in the ignition switch may have melted together. You may need a new switch.

Ge a wiring diagram and check the switch for proper function. GL

2ndGenGuy

According to this diagram I'm looking at, if you disconnected the ignition switch from the fuse panel, then theoretically, yeah your car should shut off. Power flows through the switch, into the fuse panel, from there to power the coil and distributor. If you're sure that you got the ignition switch harness disconnected, then somehow the distributor and coil are getting power from somewhere else. You can trace back the black/yellow wires from those and see where they are going to.

The easiest way to kill the car, is probably to just pull the high voltage wire from the coil to the distributor.

branscoset

Do you mind posting that diagram?

I am having a hard time removing the ignition as a whole.That wraps the steering column and has what looks like 2 carriage bolts through it which I see no way of removing without drilling.

2ndGenGuy

Yeah those are security bolts, not meant to be removed easily. I think you will have to drill them out. I'll try to post the diagram later, but it is from an 84, and not an 82, so it might not be 100% accurate, but should be pretty close.

branscoset

After looking through my haynes manual I found that out, the break off bolts are only mentioned in a one line blurb throughout the entire book. I have ordered a used ignition as a whole off eBay. Hopefully it will fix this issue.

I have followed the ignition wires from the distributor to the coil to the fuse and to the steering column and have not found any shorts or breaks in the wire loom or harness.

Thanks for all the help, and any future help

2ndGenGuy

Hope it works for ya! Man, I am terrible at the follow up on posting that stuff!

branscoset

Tested the new ignition, still did the same thing. Removed fuse panel, all looks good. Checked all wiring under dash, looks clean and secure. Jiggled and re-connected all wiring, used electrical cleaner on some connections. Replaced 1 blown fuse for the clock/radio. Then started her up, turned off the key and she died, just like she is supposed to.

I got all excited and went to joy ride the car. The oil light started flickering, full of oil, clean new oil. Maybe a loose oil pressure wire I guessed, will check it later I told myself.
Drive to my friends house and the battery light came on, literally died pulling in the driveway.
Removed the battery, tightened the alternator belt, charged the battery.

Went to check oil pressure sending unit on top of filter....then the horror struck me right in the feelers.

The wiring harness from the alternator, to the pressure sender, to the battery, and many other connections are all melted, copper showing, plastic burnt etc. Definetely not from engine heat, these wires got hot and melted them selves together, causing multiple shorts, drains etc.

I cant find a complete wiring harness online? I am going to remove my harness and see just how bad it really is. I would like to buy a brand new one, but if I have to replace wire by wire myself I will do that.

Anyone know where I might find one? The junkyards in my area have long been scavenged for these older ek1 parts and I doubt I will find what I need.

2ndGenGuy

YIKES! That explains a lot!

If your dealer can't find a new harness through Vintage Parts, then you'll have to either build a new one yourself, or hit up the wrecking yards. I've had some decent luck at car-part.com. There's really not much to the harness, so replacing it shouldn't be too bad. But I'm not 100% sure if there is a disconnect between the cabin harness and the engine harness like the newer Hondas. So it might be a bit more work.

branscoset

About $300 total later...
I am finishing installing my newly fabbed wiring harness tonight.
No break away point, couldn't find connectors, used obd1 made my own break away where it runs in the fender to dash. Solder Solder Solder..

I am replacing the alternator and the voltage regulator for good measure.

Stock "fusible link" fell apart in my hands so I am using a inline 50amp fuse in place from an old stereo. If it blows ill move to a 60amp.

If anyone has a wiring diagram or something similar for the distributor coil that would be cool.