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Hey letank, I'm finally able to get back to working in my accord. I noticed a ball bearing in vacuum line 20. I don't know why it's there. I went into my service book and found a diagram. By blocking line 20 what is it bypassing? I attached a pic below?
Welcome to PO (previous owner) weird fixes.... the line is getting vacuum when the throttle is opened, and goes to the choke unloader and the purge control for the charcoal canister....
At best, remove the ball bearing and see what is happening.
I pulled the ball bearing and it didn't run well at all. After some tinkering I found that the air cut off diaphragm was worn out. I was able to get my hands on another one and no it runs a lot better. Took it for a test drive and it felt like it had a lot more power and ran better overall as well.
I found it at a junkyard here in Los angeles. Found a carb and pulled the diaphragm off and it was still good. Car runs good now. But it still fails smog. So somewhere in my Egr system is not working. I have a shop manual and I'm slowly going thru the diagnostic part for my egr. I think my thermo sensor and control switch are toast. So is there a way to pull vacuum to my egr by pulling it from another vacuum line? If so is it ok if the erg is always pulling vacuum and will that make it pass? Otherwise I'm on the hunt for really heard to find parts.
You can use a vacuum line from the carburetor ported vacuum system, the vacuum is progressive as it relates to the opening of the throttle.
Time to get a vacuum gauge or one of those vacuum pump used to bleed brakes.
Actron CP7830 from most places, Napa, amazon or dabay.
Connect a T to one of the lines that I suggested in previous post and see if there is no vacuum at idle and when does the vacuum starts to built up as you open the throttle.
If so is it ok if the EGR is always pulling vacuum and will that make it pass? .
I did not answer that specific question above:
so the EGR will be turned on proportionalyl to the engine rpm, thru the ported vacuum of the carburetor.
It will be activated when the engine is cold, which "MAY" make the engine a "BIT" less responsive. But being in LA it will not be a big problem. I plumbed an EGR similarly for a neighbor in SF and he never noticed any difference on his garaged subaru, and it passed 2 smog checks with flying colors.
Hoseline #4 has no vacuum at idle and rises as you give it throttle. I unplugged the line to the egr and t'd into line 4 and hooked it up to the egr. Car runs fine. Should I block the line that was originally hooked up to the egr or just connect it to the new line from line 4.
Hoseline #4 has no vacuum at idle and rises as you give it throttle. I unplugged the line to the egr and t'd into line 4 and hooked it up to the egr. Car runs fine. Should I block the line that was originally hooked up to the egr or just connect it to the new line from line 4.
Connect it to the new line from line 4 with a T so it looks like it is original equipment is a very good idea. A loose line will fail visual smog check.
I thought about it...
just keep the hoses connected the way you did it as the car is running fine and manage to make the old EGR hose stealth without looking obviously disconnected...
This thread is full of great info, really appreciate all the time that went into it.
I'm also having issues passing smog (only high NOX).
I've replaced everything and i'm down to thinking the issue is a clogged egr port in the manifold.
Do either of you know if the egr port that goes back towards the carb should re-enter the manifold? cause i can't seem to find an exit for that port and I after cleaning it out.
1 port clearly goes into the head
other port heads to rear of manifold but I can't find an exit which is causing me to think it's clogged as well as lose my mind.
When I remove hose from egr when car is running, nothing happens. Just continues running awesome. :-)
I'm also in Los Angeles, Tarzana to be exact.
I've been hunting for a new manifold for sale with little to no luck.
This thread is full of great info, really appreciate all the time that went into it.
I'm also having issues passing smog (only high NOX).
I've replaced everything and i'm down to thinking the issue is a clogged egr port in the manifold.
Do either of you know if the egr port that goes back towards the carb should re-enter the manifold? cause i can't seem to find an exit for that port and I after cleaning it out.
1 port clearly goes into the head
other port heads to rear of manifold but I can't find an exit which is causing me to think it's clogged as well as lose my mind.
When I remove hose from egr when car is running, nothing happens. Just continues running awesome. :-)
I'm also in Los Angeles, Tarzana to be exact.
I've been hunting for a new manifold for sale with little to no luck.
Car: 1980 civic wagon 1.5
Not too sure about the 1980 civic manifold, but knowing that engineers like to recycle parts or idea. Cannot find my picts at the moment.... The conduit is convoluted and run in the intake manifold, I have never been able to slide any device from the EGR pedestal to the runner on the cylinder side... did it a junkyard.... find a local junkyard, in norcal we have picknpull.com, but I did not see any site south of Fresno...
BUT It is NORMAL that nothing is happening when you pull off the EGR hose. The egr operation is controlled by vacuum generated by the engine and many feedback valves.
The easiest way to check EGR operation is to pull the hose from the egr and connect another hose to the EGR nipple and put a source of vacuum (vacuum hand pump is the ideal tool) on the free side, pull some vacuum and when the egr opens, the engine will stall. During normal operation the engine is running at about 2000 rpm to operate the EGR
As said earlier If the engine stalls then the EGR is working, you may have a vacuum leak such as loose or cracked hose... spray some WD40 or brake cleaner spray while the engine is running and check for an rpm increase, being sure that you did not spray in the air filter intake hose.
10-08-2015, 06:48 PM
Re: 81 accord hatchback smog issues
