Viper 5900 into DC2
 

Im doing a STEALTH alarm install on a 96 GSR (Thanks to the "Cause for Alarm", BIG BIG Help!)and Im using the Viper 5900. Im almost does but I have a few questions:

1) Does anyone have the relay diagram for the horn honk? Where should I tag it?
2) How can I hook up my highbeams to flash when my alarm goes off? Can I hook it up to the domelight supervision? Slectable flash output? Im assuming I need a relay also.
3) Can I wire up 3 sirens to the brown horn output without a relay? (Searched= yes and no).

4) How does the sattelite relay work? I know the green and purple wires go to the starter and the 3 red to go the constant power (can I hook them up to one source?), pink goes to accessory and how about the rest? pink/white? orange? all the smaller guage wires? just tring to get a sense of how this alarm works. It just seems like more outputs to add more kill switches.

I didnt hook up the remote start and I dont plan on using it, I just got a realy good deal on it and I didnt want to sell it. Thanks in advance.

Re: Viper 5900 into DC2 (YellowPhoenix095)
 

http://www.the12volt.com/insta....html

1) You won't need a relay for the horn wire as there is already one in your car. You just need to tap into the Blue/Green (-) in the steering column. Shorting that wire to ground should activate your horn.

2) This is going to kill your battery fast and I highly recommend against doing this. It will also shorten the life of your headlights. DO NOT DO THIS is you have HID's. The low beam wire is Red/White and can be found in the steering column. No on dome light supervision. Selectable flash output is where you would want to trigger the relay (yes you would need one) from if you do setup your alarm this way.

3) NO, the alarm was only meant to power one siren. I have seen people power 2 off the alarm but that's as far as I would go and I do not even recommend that. Power 1 from the alarm and use that output to also power a relay to drive the other 2. Get the power source for the relay from your battery and NOT after your back up battery (BUB). That way if the battery is unhooked your BUB will only have to power one siren and it will last longer..

4) Yes you can hook all 3 red to one source. Get that source from the white ignition wire or direct from the battery with a 30amp inline fuse. You have 2 ignition wires and both of them will need power from the XRS, Black/Yellow and White/Black. There should be 2 outputs on the XRS for IGN1 and IGN2. I believe the Pink/White is for ACC2 and you will not need that or any of the small wires.

If your not using the remote start then don't wast your time with the XRS. (like I just did typing # 4 https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...s/emhammer.gif) That should be covered in the Cause for Alarm.

Thanks White Smoke. I was wanting to hook up my high beams because I am doing an HID retro on my low beams and Im afraid that it'll get messed up when it flashes.

Re: (YellowPhoenix095)
 

I recommend against connecting the alarm to the horn because it is highly annoying and can lead to you getting a ticket or an impound. Just use the siren.

You shouldn't connect the alarm to your headlights at all. The alarm is intended to flash the parking lights (via a relay) and that is adequate to draw attention to the car.

You are fine connecting the provided siren and a piezo siren to the same brown wire. I really have never had a reason to use any more noise makers than that (refer to the second sentence in the first paragraph).

The satellite is a PITA and along with all the other wiring that this alarm requires compared to the non-remote start, I don't recommend this alarm for anyone who hasn't installed several alarms previously. Do NOT join all three red wires into one. Connect them side-by-side to the ignition harness. Also do not join the alarm's red wire to any of these wires. The starter wire is cut in two so that the starter signal flows through the satellite; from your key cylinder in through through the green wire, then out the purple wire to the starter side of the factory wire.

Re: (suspendedHatch)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do NOT join all three red wires into one. Connect them side-by-side to the ignition harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When I said connect them together I meant all at the same place where you connect it to the white wire. Figured that would be pretty obvious.

Re: Viper 5900 into DC2 (YellowPhoenix095)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The satellite is a PITA and along with all the other wiring that this alarm requires compared to the non-remote start, I don't recommend this alarm for anyone who hasn't installed several alarms previously. Do NOT join all three red wires into one. Connect them side-by-side to the ignition harness. Also do not join the alarm's red wire to any of these wires. The starter wire is cut in two so that the starter signal flows through the satellite; from your key cylinder in through through the green wire, then out the purple wire to the starter side of the factory wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im assuming that this is how the alarm knows to reset after your alarm has been setoff off? Because I canot get the led to turn off.

No, it's not. The starter wire directs power to the starter solenoid/motor, and has nothing to do with resetting the alarm. What you have bolded is how to do the starter kill.

If it's not resetting, then you have not correctly connected the pink ignition wire. This wire needs to see 12v + to reset a triggered alarm.

Ahh ok. I was just going off what White Smoke said and literally didnt waste my time using the XRS at all. LOL. Makes sense now. Thanks for all the reply guys.