VegaS10

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skeletor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the dome light supervision makes the lights flash? Also, is there another output for the dome light? I'd like to have it come on with the lights on disarm. Also doesn't the 990 come with a horn output? Why did you have to use a relay for that? Or did the relay hook into the 990s horn output? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, using a relay, I used the dome light supervision wire to control the headlights. Using it in this manner, the headlights come on upon disarming, and remain on for 30 seconds. They also flash during full trigger.

The 990 has a horn output, but, it's only capable of driving 500 milliamps. A relay is needed, I found out the hard way awhile back (lol).

Skeletor

I guess my question actually was, does the dome light supervision make the lights flash? I understand now after some reading about relays how the lights come on under disarm by using the dome light but how do they flash on full trigger?

VegaS10

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skeletor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess my question actually was, does the dome light supervision make the lights flash? I understand now after some reading about relays how the lights come on under disarm by using the dome light but how do they flash on full trigger?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the dome light supervision makes them flash on full trigger. If you hook the dome light supervision up "normally", you'll see when the alarm is fully triggered the dome light(s) flash.

I noticed this on an install and thought it'd be cool to make the headlights mimic the dome lights. If you DO hook up the domelights as well, it's best to diode isolate the normal line and the relay.

I did not hook it up to the dome light in my install.

Skeletor

Gotcha. I now know for my install. Thanks.

l337m4n

This is nice, theres lots of hard work in this thread.

VegaS10

Thanks.

I sold this car back in December, and used this link as a reference to the alarm install. The alarm was actually one of the main reasons the guy bought the car. He lives in a really bad area of the state and did'nt want his next car to get stolen.

CoolRedXylophone

Good Job

Bad_dude

This is a freaking great DIY. Every one should see this. I am going to shoot you some questions soon. I am going to start a thread soon before my install with questions to make sure every thing is clear before I do my install.
I am thinking about the Viper 350 Responder or the Avital 5303. I lean more towards the Viper but 2 things I don't like is the shock sensor built in the brain for the Viper. Also the Viper does not have the dedicate 2nd output for door priority unlock to work on my car which does not have this feature OEM. At the same time I want to retain the OEM function as when I lock all doors, if the driver's door is still open, that door won't lock. Basically I want to:

Push the remote unlock once to unlock with the driver's door and unarm the larm. If I click it twice fast, it opens all doors. I know you need a relay for the driver's door and the dedicate 2nd unlock wire output for this feature to work. Thus the Viper 350 turn me off not having this dedicate 2nd unlock wire. So I have to use one of the AUX to work the unlock all doors.

As for the Avital 5203, I don't want the remote start. Then I read the manual for the Scytek 777, Prestige 596C, and the Autopage, their wiring install looks much more simpler.

I have the 1990 Honda Accord LX Sedan. So I am also looking for suggestions to hide the brain, I was thinking of hiding it behind the gauge cluster, wonder if that would fit. Maybe below the shift gear box as I have an auto. Behind the glove box maybe? I am worry if the wires from the brain will be long enough to run to the dash area to connect.

This is a great job and excellent work man. I have reading for 2 weeks about installs now. This is one of my favorite.
BTW, the relays for the fuel kill and the ECU kill, which wire from the brain, did you hook it up to? I guess they don't need diodes for isolation right? Diodes are only needed for feed back separations?

Thanks.

Typ2nuk

Thanks for posting this install! This is an excellent DIY. It has been a great help to me as this will be my first install on a 91 civic si. I've been online for a few days researching installs of Viper 5701 alarms. I've learned more from this DIY and the one you did on the red civic (which looks just like mine) then I have all week online. I hope you are still available for some questions.

Typ2nuk

Thanks again for the DIY! It helped me find out a whole lot about my car due to these posts. My alarm is installed, remote start works and door actuators installed... I want to add some extras, but feel really comfortable about going back and doing this.

acmoc

Where do I splice the alarm horn trigger into the factory horn?

jjos

great DIY

jjos

Hey Vegas since you're a tech guru, I was wondering why people who create their own kill switch sometimes add fuses holders and their are those who dont add them?

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Because some people kill 12v+ leads while others kill - ground leads. You dont need a fuse when installing a kill switch on a ground wire.

VegaS10

An extra fuse never hurt no one...