JoshuaVTEC

Please help me out, whenever I turn my audio up above about 16 or 17 on my Alpine head unit, the amps shut off. I have checked all my power, ground, and signal wires 10 times and everything is good. Only thing I can think of is the way I wired the subs/amps....

Kinda new to the audio thing so I used this page to wire my amps/subs:

http://www.crutchfield.com/lea....html

I have 2 10" Alpine Type R DVC 2 ohm subs ran by an Alpine MRD-M500 amp and 1 12" Alpine Type R DVC 2 ohm sub ran by an MRD-M501 amp.

I used this diagram for the two 10" subs:



And I used this diagram for the one 12" sub:



Please let me know if I used the correct diagrams for the amps/subs I have! Thanks!

fcm

More info....
Does the sound cut out or does the amp turn off, [amps indicator light goes out]?
Is it both amps or just the one driving the two 10"?
Does the HU also cut out?
How do you have the 12" wired, [1 ohm oe 4 ohms]?
What kind, [gauge] of power cable are you using and what type and amperage of fuse(s) are you using?
Where and how are the amps grounded? 94

JoshuaVTEC

- The problem is that when I start to turn it up louder, both amps turn off, not the head unit. The only way to turn the amps back on is to power-off the head unit and power it back on again.

- Subs are wired according to the diagrams I posted above.

- All wires, grounds and fuses are correct and from a Streetwires kit.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoshuaVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- All wires, grounds and fuses are correct and from a Streetwires kit.</TD></TR></TABLE> Streetwire makes a lot of amp kits, which one?
It also does not say where and how the amps are grounded

Try this, disconnect the remote lead from one of the amps, try system.
If it still cuts out, disconnect the remote from the other amp and reconnect the first one and try again, if it still cuts out , disconnect remote lead from both amps and use jumper leads from the amps power terminal to the remote terminal and try system. 94

JoshuaVTEC

It's just a standard Streetwires multi-amp kit, and the grounds are to a good bolt in the rear trunk area.

I'll try your tips in the morning, and if anyone else has any, I'm more than willing to try them please!

So I can rule out my concern that I used the wrong wiring diagrams? I don't know much about "ohms" and did what seemed to be common sense.

Green2000CivicEx

If you have a multimeter, a voltage reading would be helpful. If your amps are going into protect, the voltage could be dropping too much and causing them to shut down. If you don't have one, you can get a cheap, decent one for about 15 bucks. They are a lifesaver.

JoshuaVTEC

What would cause them to go down that much into protect mode? It's just two amps. Would a cap fix this?

fcm

There are a number of reasons that could be limiting current, it is why I asked about the power and ground cables, and "It's just a standard Streetwires multi-amp kit," only helps a little

I need to know what gauge the cable is, what type of main fuse it has and what type of fuses in the distribution block.

I need to know where and how you have the amps grounded, [what bolt in the trunk area?] did you clean/sand away any dirt/paint down to bare metal at the ground point?

Have you checked to insure that all the power and ground connections, [nuts, bolts, screws] are tight?

Have you "beefed up" the batt. to chassis ground?

Have you had your charging system checked, a load check would be done for free at just about any batt./alt. shop. 94

baller status

So do the remote wires still show 12 volts when the amps are "off"?

What are your amp settings?

How did you ground the amps?

How does two 10's paired with a 12 sound? I was always told something like that is a bad idea.

JoshuaVTEC

This is the Streetwires kit I have:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetwires.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4 AWG Amp Kit (Multi-Amp)

Kit contains: 4 and 8 AWG power cable, 8 AWG ground cable, 18 AWG remote wire, 100A AFS fuse, AFS fuse holder, 5/16" ring terminal, 3/16" ring terminal, 8 AWG spade terminal, 18 AWG spade terminal, red butt connector, cable ties, dist block (4 AWG in, 4-8 AWG out)

Designed for multiple-amplifier systems
Designed for systems up to 600 watts
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only difference is I have a hard time finding 100A fuses around here so I am using an 80A for main power lead. I lost the 100A when I dropped it so I had to replace it with the 80A.

The battery is a 3 month old Optima yellow top. The ground cable from the battery, as well as all the other engine grounds, are Streetwire 4 gauge. The alternator is the stock one on my 60,000 mile Civic. I have an Autometer volt gauge in my car and it never goes below 12-14 even with the stereo cranked up.

The ground is to the bolt the holds the rear taillight assembly to the body, if you pull back the carpeting on the rear passenger side of the trunk it is exposed for use. Yes it is sanded, yes it is clean.

All other connections are good and tight.

All the amp settings are factory, I didn't adjust anything.

I haven't been able to use the voltmeter to check the remote leads today because the amps haven't done this problem today. I did check with it all working good earlier and the power and remote are both getting 14 volts. As soon as it does the shut-off again and I can check it, I'll post up.

fcm

OK, a few things...
First, your ground point is not very good, you need to make contact with the cars floor pan, rear seat and seat belt bolts are best.

Second, you are running two 500W subs with a 1x500W RMS into 2 ohms amp, that is way underpowered and you are running a 500W sub with a 1x250W RMS into 4 ohms amp, also way under powered.

Third, you are powering 750W RMS with a 600W amp kit

Fourth, the amps do not have a "factory" setting and must be adjusted properly.

It is a good bet that you are driving the amps into constant clipping, [underpowered for the subs] and may have damage the VCs on the subs, burnt VCs are the most common result of underpowered speakers, and the most common symptom is amps shutting off at higher volumes as damage will be at the speakers Xmax, [max. cone movement] [top and bottom ends of the VCs will be damaged].
Although this may not be your problem now, it will most likely become a problem later. 94

katoeh2o

I would double check that you wired your speakers properly and that you have the correct ohm load for each amp. You also have underpowering issues that have been pointed out but you should still be thumpin. Also check the gain control on you amps and set them to 3/4.