SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
#2176
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Lovin the last picture
My BC inverted coils just came in, I want to make sure I get everything done properly.
With some research I have found that when lowering with our suspension, Tierod upgrades are present.
This is one of the threads I found
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...entre-adjuster
After some researching im still not 100% clear how and what needs to be done. I know for certain that the stock Tierod ends I am currently running on stock suspension are getting loose and need to be replaced. As you know already I also own the exact same rims/tire setup as yourself.
The car will be tracked this season so im questioning a few things (keeping in mind im running F8K R10K)
How much of a drop (So I don't rub/ ideal for track)
How much camber (Im thinking F-2 R-1?)
Tie rod/end upgrade (Inverted/Aftermarket)
Roll Center Adjusters?
My BC inverted coils just came in, I want to make sure I get everything done properly.
With some research I have found that when lowering with our suspension, Tierod upgrades are present.
This is one of the threads I found
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...entre-adjuster
After some researching im still not 100% clear how and what needs to be done. I know for certain that the stock Tierod ends I am currently running on stock suspension are getting loose and need to be replaced. As you know already I also own the exact same rims/tire setup as yourself.
The car will be tracked this season so im questioning a few things (keeping in mind im running F8K R10K)
How much of a drop (So I don't rub/ ideal for track)
How much camber (Im thinking F-2 R-1?)
Tie rod/end upgrade (Inverted/Aftermarket)
Roll Center Adjusters?
As far as the tie rods themselves go, you may need to trim about 1/4" off the end of the tie rod, as well as the tie rod end. This is because the tie rods tend to bottom out before you can achieve 0 toe leaving you with toe in from lack of adjustment. I had that issue before I installed my DC5R lca's, but upon install they pushed the knuckle and strut out far enough that i can now run unmodified oem parts.
I would reccomend RCA's if youre lowering more than 1". They are effective in bringing the LCAs back to the proper part of their sweep and will reduce bump steer on a Buddy Club damper setup, as well as prevent excess loading of the front struts in that the control arm can absorb load laterally instead of transferring the excess load into the strut when it is past horizontal.
As far as setup camber anywhere from -2 to -3.5 up front depending on your personal preference. More camber = more grip and sharper turn in, but also warrants tire wear and tracking on uneven roads. I run -3.5 and am very happy with the performance vs. daily driven drawbacks. For the rear look for -1 to -2 degrees. You want to stay away from 2.5* or more in the rear as it will create too much grip and may make the rear end unstable over high speed dips and uneven track surfaces when cornering due to the agressive camber curve of the rear suspsension. You may see up to 3.5* under compression on a 2.5* static setting. I ran 0 toe all the way around last season, but Ive gone to 1/64" out on each wheel front, and 1/32" out on each wheel rear for this season. I have only done daily driving so far this year though so no feedback on that quite yet.
#2177
Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
You definitely do not want to change the angle of your tie rods with inverted ends. This makes way too large of a correction and makes bumpsteer worse than if you didnt do anything at all. The Buddy Club dampers already have a lowered tie rod pickup of 1.75" and will be enough to compensate for the lowering of the car.
As far as the tie rods themselves go, you may need to trim about 1/4" off the end of the tie rod, as well as the tie rod end. This is because the tie rods tend to bottom out before you can achieve 0 toe leaving you with toe in from lack of adjustment. I had that issue before I installed my DC5R lca's, but upon install they pushed the knuckle and strut out far enough that i can now run unmodified oem parts.
I would reccomend RCA's if youre lowering more than 1". They are effective in bringing the LCAs back to the proper part of their sweep and will reduce bump steer on a Buddy Club damper setup, as well as prevent excess loading of the front struts in that the control arm can absorb load laterally instead of transferring the excess load into the strut when it is past horizontal.
As far as setup camber anywhere from -2 to -3.5 up front depending on your personal preference. More camber = more grip and sharper turn in, but also warrants tire wear and tracking on uneven roads. I run -3.5 and am very happy with the performance vs. daily driven drawbacks. For the rear look for -1 to -2 degrees. You want to stay away from 2.5* or more in the rear as it will create too much grip and may make the rear end unstable over high speed dips and uneven track surfaces when cornering due to the agressive camber curve of the rear suspsension. You may see up to 3.5* under compression on a 2.5* static setting. I ran 0 toe all the way around last season, but Ive gone to 1/64" out on each wheel front, and 1/32" out on each wheel rear for this season. I have only done daily driving so far this year though so no feedback on that quite yet.
As far as the tie rods themselves go, you may need to trim about 1/4" off the end of the tie rod, as well as the tie rod end. This is because the tie rods tend to bottom out before you can achieve 0 toe leaving you with toe in from lack of adjustment. I had that issue before I installed my DC5R lca's, but upon install they pushed the knuckle and strut out far enough that i can now run unmodified oem parts.
I would reccomend RCA's if youre lowering more than 1". They are effective in bringing the LCAs back to the proper part of their sweep and will reduce bump steer on a Buddy Club damper setup, as well as prevent excess loading of the front struts in that the control arm can absorb load laterally instead of transferring the excess load into the strut when it is past horizontal.
As far as setup camber anywhere from -2 to -3.5 up front depending on your personal preference. More camber = more grip and sharper turn in, but also warrants tire wear and tracking on uneven roads. I run -3.5 and am very happy with the performance vs. daily driven drawbacks. For the rear look for -1 to -2 degrees. You want to stay away from 2.5* or more in the rear as it will create too much grip and may make the rear end unstable over high speed dips and uneven track surfaces when cornering due to the agressive camber curve of the rear suspsension. You may see up to 3.5* under compression on a 2.5* static setting. I ran 0 toe all the way around last season, but Ive gone to 1/64" out on each wheel front, and 1/32" out on each wheel rear for this season. I have only done daily driving so far this year though so no feedback on that quite yet.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
I'm glad you mentioned that the dc5r control arms corrected your toe problems. I was wondering if I was going to have to modify my tie rods or not. Luckily I just ordered a set of dc5r lcas. Even at -3.5* camber you have no problems adjusting toe?
Last edited by chairwitharmrests; 04-25-2012 at 09:52 PM.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
It increases the tourque output of any given gear, but the actual torque output per ratio is still the same. Its just that 3rd gear will be geared closer to a 2nd gear ratio etc.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Really impressive work mate. Have been following this thread for a while and your attention to detail is commendable.
Just a question regarding POR 15 on the wheel wells. What prepartation steps did you take? About to start something similar on my build and aren't to sure how far back I need to strip the existing coating if at all?
Thanks,
Just a question regarding POR 15 on the wheel wells. What prepartation steps did you take? About to start something similar on my build and aren't to sure how far back I need to strip the existing coating if at all?
Thanks,
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Wow I wasn't aware of the 5.46 final drive. What is the stock final drive on the various K20 equipped cars? Response should be amazing once you have all the parts ready to go. You definitely need to do a before and after run through your local winding road and get them both on video sir.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Wow I wasn't aware of the 5.46 final drive. What is the stock final drive on the various K20 equipped cars? Response should be amazing once you have all the parts ready to go. You definitely need to do a before and after run through your local winding road and get them both on video sir.
Fd2r - 5.0
02-04 Usdm rsx-s - 4.3
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Really impressive work mate. Have been following this thread for a while and your attention to detail is commendable.
Just a question regarding POR 15 on the wheel wells. What prepartation steps did you take? About to start something similar on my build and aren't to sure how far back I need to strip the existing coating if at all?
Thanks,
Just a question regarding POR 15 on the wheel wells. What prepartation steps did you take? About to start something similar on my build and aren't to sure how far back I need to strip the existing coating if at all?
Thanks,
Wow I wasn't aware of the 5.46 final drive. What is the stock final drive on the various K20 equipped cars? Response should be amazing once you have all the parts ready to go. You definitely need to do a before and after run through your local winding road and get them both on video sir.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Thanks man... to apply the POR you need to strip off any black soft tar like undercoat which is usually aftermarket spray on stuff. Luckily my car didnt have any of that but the POR wont stick to it. Any oem undercoat that is painted over you can leave as is. Scrub the area with soap and water and a stiff brush, dry, and apply. You will need 3 or 4 coats to get good coverage.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Just lurking bored at work but man this thing really looks good,idk why it looks so much better to man than any other EP. lol But anyhow that final drive looks intense, im interested to hear your thoughts on it after its installed.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Im hoping I can get my tans hardware back still in the process of figuring out where it is and whats going on... middle man ftl
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
What happened to it? was there some miscommunication?
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Thanks
Well we were getting hardware plating done at my job through another team down in florida. They would take the parts then bring them to their plater. The last batch we sent was 2 full Miata hardware sets and my transmission/steering hardware. That was 4 months ago and weve heard everything from "its done but we havent gotten it from the plater" to "I shipped it 2 weeks ago you should have had it" to another guy saying they hadnt even picked it up yet let alone ship it. And the owner of the team down there is a total douche and is impossible to get a hold of.
They have at least 1k worth of parts between mine and Flatout.
They have at least 1k worth of parts between mine and Flatout.
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Thanks
Well we were getting hardware plating done at my job through another team down in florida. They would take the parts then bring them to their plater. The last batch we sent was 2 full Miata hardware sets and my transmission/steering hardware. That was 4 months ago and weve heard everything from "its done but we havent gotten it from the plater" to "I shipped it 2 weeks ago you should have had it" to another guy saying they hadnt even picked it up yet let alone ship it. And the owner of the team down there is a total douche and is impossible to get a hold of.
They have at least 1k worth of parts between mine and Flatout.
Well we were getting hardware plating done at my job through another team down in florida. They would take the parts then bring them to their plater. The last batch we sent was 2 full Miata hardware sets and my transmission/steering hardware. That was 4 months ago and weve heard everything from "its done but we havent gotten it from the plater" to "I shipped it 2 weeks ago you should have had it" to another guy saying they hadnt even picked it up yet let alone ship it. And the owner of the team down there is a total douche and is impossible to get a hold of.
They have at least 1k worth of parts between mine and Flatout.
Wow that's some bitch made stuff going on, Seems to me like they are slacking and don"t want to admit to it. Not a good look for them especially from a business standpoint, i hate when companies seem to give up or not care anymore when they know they are most likely losing a client.
Best of luck with it man, do you guys have any contacts in the area that could go over and put in some face time?
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
Wow that's some bitch made stuff going on, Seems to me like they are slacking and don"t want to admit to it. Not a good look for them especially from a business standpoint, i hate when companies seem to give up or not care anymore when they know they are most likely losing a client.
Best of luck with it man, do you guys have any contacts in the area that could go over and put in some face time?
Best of luck with it man, do you guys have any contacts in the area that could go over and put in some face time?
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Re: SHG is back! Easy's EP3 goes under the knife...
On the up side we now have a local plating hook up thats about 30 min away. Just got all the DC5 hardware back from them
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