My 94 Civic EX - build thread!
#1
My 94 Civic EX - build thread - 2016 Resurrection
Plans: race and drive it.
Mods:
Interior
Sparco Seats (cant remember model)
Momo Monte Carlo 350mm
NRG hub and quick release
ITR shifter w/Circuit Hero Extender & ****
New OEM floor mats!
Stack Oil pressure and oil temp gauges
Exterior
eBay fog lights
Vision clear corners
Suspension, Wheels, Tires and Brakes
AMR custom 10k/8k coilovers
AMR upper control arms
JDM ITR 98 Spec 25mm front sway bar
ASR subframe brace
ASR 24mm sway bar
Blox endlinks
Hardrace bushings (complete set)
Hardrace Toe adjusters
Hardrace Camber adjusters (rear)
Buddy Club extended ball joints
Avid traction bars
OE EX front brakes
Hawk HPS pads
Stoptech braided teflon coated brake lines
DC4 rear disc conversion
Spoon sports f/r shock tower braces
15x6.5" Rennsport RC Stark I's
205/50/15 Dunlop Direzza DZ101
15x7 Drag DR41's
225/45/15 Hoosier A6's
Engine, Transmission
84.5x89 B20Vtec
RS Machine "race" Ported B16 head
Skunk2 Pro2's
Supertech springs/retainers
SRR cam gears
RS ITR spec pistons
Eagle Rods
Fluidampr crank pulley
ITR flywheel
Exedy stage 1
Moroso 4qt Pan
OBD2 ITR/GSR oil pump, water pump, belt
TWM 52mm 2000 series throttle bodies
Hondata heatshield
ID1000cc injectors
Aeromotive "stealth" 340 in tank pump
B16 transmission
OBX LSD
Misc stuff
All Black Aeroquip AN fittings, Tucked fuel lines, tucked brake lines and prop valve, wilwood brake and clutch master cylinders, QSD adapter plates, custom breather box
Past: April 4th '10
When I first got it
All stock EX, some crappy aftermarket wing, "hx" wheels, needed a master cylinder and the clutch was going bad. Also had no radio.
Mid April '10
Lowered on PIC coilovers, had ASR brace, 24mm sway bar, and fat fives w/Runways! Drove awesome, thought this was a stopping point cuz I wanted to focus on getting another Jeep.
May '10
Swapped a B16 in... and got new wheels and mounted my Momo/NRG stuff
And then it started... I wanted to get serious w/auto-x, roadracing, etc so... I did what any ricers does... Pulled the interior and removed all the sound deadening.
November '10 came and I took a couple days vacation and did a wire tuck, also "tucked" and resleeved my wire harness.
After completing the tuck and all that, the car remained unchanged for awhile. Til, I got my bonus and decided once again that I wanted to make some changes.
So, I bought my all time favorite wheels The Starks.
the first initial test fit on April 7 '11
And, once again car didnt change for awhile. I managed before the end of the auto-x season to get a few heats in. (it's Aug. 2011 at this point in time)
The del sol in the picture belongs to a member on here, can't remember his name though.
The car at this time had no rear sway bar and was on Bilsteins w/Nuespeed springs.
and now... we're up to date. (so to speak)
My AMRs
B20V
Subframe stuff
Barney on slicks
Buddy Club RCA
MC's
Table of ****
Bay as of right now
I've bent the brake line that will run from the MC to a bulkhead on the firewall, I've also bent both front brake lines that will run from the fenderwell to the stock brake line location.
Master cylinders mounted up (still need fittings to finalize it)
Catch can in place ( i will replace the fittings w/black AN from summit more than likely)
Also decided to replace the SS line that runs from the oil filter adapter tot he head (on vtec conversions) w/a hardlines. So I bent that up, using 1/4 fuel line.\
I still need all the fittings for the brake tuck, all the fittins and hose for hte fuel lines and some other misc. stuff.
And, I'll leave this with a shot of the engine.
Thanks for lookin, I'll post updates as often as theyre made!
Mods:
Interior
Sparco Seats (cant remember model)
Momo Monte Carlo 350mm
NRG hub and quick release
ITR shifter w/Circuit Hero Extender & ****
New OEM floor mats!
Stack Oil pressure and oil temp gauges
Exterior
eBay fog lights
Vision clear corners
Suspension, Wheels, Tires and Brakes
AMR custom 10k/8k coilovers
AMR upper control arms
JDM ITR 98 Spec 25mm front sway bar
ASR subframe brace
ASR 24mm sway bar
Blox endlinks
Hardrace bushings (complete set)
Hardrace Toe adjusters
Hardrace Camber adjusters (rear)
Buddy Club extended ball joints
Avid traction bars
OE EX front brakes
Hawk HPS pads
Stoptech braided teflon coated brake lines
DC4 rear disc conversion
Spoon sports f/r shock tower braces
15x6.5" Rennsport RC Stark I's
205/50/15 Dunlop Direzza DZ101
15x7 Drag DR41's
225/45/15 Hoosier A6's
Engine, Transmission
84.5x89 B20Vtec
RS Machine "race" Ported B16 head
Skunk2 Pro2's
Supertech springs/retainers
SRR cam gears
RS ITR spec pistons
Eagle Rods
Fluidampr crank pulley
ITR flywheel
Exedy stage 1
Moroso 4qt Pan
OBD2 ITR/GSR oil pump, water pump, belt
TWM 52mm 2000 series throttle bodies
Hondata heatshield
ID1000cc injectors
Aeromotive "stealth" 340 in tank pump
B16 transmission
OBX LSD
Misc stuff
All Black Aeroquip AN fittings, Tucked fuel lines, tucked brake lines and prop valve, wilwood brake and clutch master cylinders, QSD adapter plates, custom breather box
Past: April 4th '10
When I first got it
All stock EX, some crappy aftermarket wing, "hx" wheels, needed a master cylinder and the clutch was going bad. Also had no radio.
Mid April '10
Lowered on PIC coilovers, had ASR brace, 24mm sway bar, and fat fives w/Runways! Drove awesome, thought this was a stopping point cuz I wanted to focus on getting another Jeep.
May '10
Swapped a B16 in... and got new wheels and mounted my Momo/NRG stuff
And then it started... I wanted to get serious w/auto-x, roadracing, etc so... I did what any ricers does... Pulled the interior and removed all the sound deadening.
November '10 came and I took a couple days vacation and did a wire tuck, also "tucked" and resleeved my wire harness.
After completing the tuck and all that, the car remained unchanged for awhile. Til, I got my bonus and decided once again that I wanted to make some changes.
So, I bought my all time favorite wheels The Starks.
the first initial test fit on April 7 '11
And, once again car didnt change for awhile. I managed before the end of the auto-x season to get a few heats in. (it's Aug. 2011 at this point in time)
The del sol in the picture belongs to a member on here, can't remember his name though.
The car at this time had no rear sway bar and was on Bilsteins w/Nuespeed springs.
and now... we're up to date. (so to speak)
My AMRs
B20V
Subframe stuff
Barney on slicks
Buddy Club RCA
MC's
Table of ****
Bay as of right now
I've bent the brake line that will run from the MC to a bulkhead on the firewall, I've also bent both front brake lines that will run from the fenderwell to the stock brake line location.
Master cylinders mounted up (still need fittings to finalize it)
Catch can in place ( i will replace the fittings w/black AN from summit more than likely)
Also decided to replace the SS line that runs from the oil filter adapter tot he head (on vtec conversions) w/a hardlines. So I bent that up, using 1/4 fuel line.\
I still need all the fittings for the brake tuck, all the fittins and hose for hte fuel lines and some other misc. stuff.
And, I'll leave this with a shot of the engine.
Thanks for lookin, I'll post updates as often as theyre made!
Last edited by bks84; 10-13-2016 at 09:23 PM.
Trending Topics
#10
Re: My 94 Civic EX - build thread!
Yesterday I spent some time cleaning up the front suspension pieces painted a few of them.
Also got this from a friend...
Not sure if I wanna use it or just sell it and get a tunerview rd1...
Sorry, not a real update...
Also got this from a friend...
Not sure if I wanna use it or just sell it and get a tunerview rd1...
Sorry, not a real update...
#11
Re: My 94 Civic EX - build thread!
I spoke to my uncle at work today he said that he'd for sure have one of his guys press out the blox bushings and bore the holes to accept the hardrace bushings. So I borrowed a dial caliper gauge deal and measured them.
Hardrace bushings are larger than the blox. The inboard and outboard (subframe and trailing arm) are 31mm on the blox and 35mm on the hardrace, the shock bushings are 35 on the blox and 37 on the hardrace.
I dont see a problem in massaging them just a touch!
So in short, if you're wanting to replace your Crappy Blox bushings with OEM Honda or Hardrace bushings, you can, just takes some work!
LOL
Hardrace bushings are larger than the blox. The inboard and outboard (subframe and trailing arm) are 31mm on the blox and 35mm on the hardrace, the shock bushings are 35 on the blox and 37 on the hardrace.
I dont see a problem in massaging them just a touch!
So in short, if you're wanting to replace your Crappy Blox bushings with OEM Honda or Hardrace bushings, you can, just takes some work!
LOL
#12
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Re: My 94 Civic EX - build thread!
Hardrace bushings are larger than the blox. The inboard and outboard (subframe and trailing arm) are 31mm on the blox and 35mm on the hardrace, the shock bushings are 35 on the blox and 37 on the hardrace.
I dont see a problem in massaging them just a touch!
So in short, if you're wanting to replace your Crappy Blox bushings with OEM Honda or Hardrace bushings, you can, just takes some work!
LOL
I dont see a problem in massaging them just a touch!
So in short, if you're wanting to replace your Crappy Blox bushings with OEM Honda or Hardrace bushings, you can, just takes some work!
LOL
I like that !
great info
#14
Re: My 94 Civic EX - build thread!
got my subframe "pre" assembled, gonna be pulling it apart again to install the Quaife Quick Steer kit, (if I ever order it).
Decided to paint the subframe and control arms satin black, and I used a can of Silver Ford touch-up paint on the rack. I like how it turned out. Nope, its no powder coat, but itll do just fine and cost a lot less!
Decided to paint the subframe and control arms satin black, and I used a can of Silver Ford touch-up paint on the rack. I like how it turned out. Nope, its no powder coat, but itll do just fine and cost a lot less!
#16
Re: My 94 Civic EX - build thread!
No, not yet.
Found some interesting things...
Broken valve keeper... on #3 intake side. Its a good thing we were replacing the OEM pieces with Manley keeps, otherwise this would have gone unnoticed and couldnt have been detrimental!
Broken OEM piece!
replaced all 32 pieces w/Manley!!!
In progress!!!
And... the head studs were installed without their washers. so, now I need to order washers.
Aside from that, we managed to check V2V, I believe I had .0046" (46 thousandths, decimal place may be incorrect).
We got the head put back on but my buddy had to leave so we didnt finish degreeing the stuff.
Got a dinner date with my wife and her friends so, we're done for now. After dinner/movie I may come home and get the rear suspension done...
Mama wants her garage space, so I got do that before I can shuffle the car around.
Found some interesting things...
Broken valve keeper... on #3 intake side. Its a good thing we were replacing the OEM pieces with Manley keeps, otherwise this would have gone unnoticed and couldnt have been detrimental!
Broken OEM piece!
replaced all 32 pieces w/Manley!!!
In progress!!!
And... the head studs were installed without their washers. so, now I need to order washers.
Aside from that, we managed to check V2V, I believe I had .0046" (46 thousandths, decimal place may be incorrect).
We got the head put back on but my buddy had to leave so we didnt finish degreeing the stuff.
Got a dinner date with my wife and her friends so, we're done for now. After dinner/movie I may come home and get the rear suspension done...
Mama wants her garage space, so I got do that before I can shuffle the car around.
#25
Re: My 94 Civic EX - build thread!
thanks for the kind words, the motor depicted in this thread early on, met a untimely death.
i dropped the car off on a wednesday so the guys could get the alignment and exhaust done at their convenience and we were scheduled to tune on that saturday. friday night they put the car on the four-post lift (attached to the dyno) in prep for saturday. saturday rolls around and we start in on it, prior to dyno tuning, we decided to take care of the idle, went to crank and miraculously the timing belt just jumps. it jumped time pretty severly, and in my excitement and against my gut/better instincts I decided to listen to my closest friend when he told me to retime it, it'll be fine.
well, it wasnt. it actually bent all the exhaust valves. like i said, i ignored my gut feelings nad proceeded to tune it. on bent valves and 91 octane it made 215, losing power after 8500 like all pro2's do apparently.
fast forward an hour, bent valve turns into dropped valve and BOOM. it blew up.
decided i wanted to fix it, rebuild and hopefully reach my power goals.
so, i ordered some 12.5:1 supertech pistons and sent the block to be bored to 85 to get rid of the knicks the valve and bits left in cylinder 3. i assembled the shortblock myself, my first engine. i set my ring gap at .0015, .0018, and .0015. piston to wall is .0023 per supertechs specs, i believe.
called/pm'd derek of DDTech and got some M24XX's
the srr gears were nice, but since i decided to upgrade cams i figured id change em out too.
and since all that was done, i knew i needed a head that would perform. called larry and josh and after sending them two bad heads (first w/botched valve guide install, second w/cracked combustion chambers) larry tells me he has one. so i gave the go ahead and they did their thing. they used their "Aero" guides, new seals, supertech std size flat valves, valve springs, retainers, manley keepers, and ITR spring style lma's.
after degreeing the cams in and get the motor in the car i waited for said trusted superfriend to come by and be there for first start up. finally got it running, then it started puking oil. so, after some lookin' it was the plug in the head that i didnt use any thread sealant on. muh bad.
had to remove the head, add some teflon tape and put it back together. got it running again and boom, coolant leak. lil cap i put on the nipple on the water cross-pipe, decided to crack.
for those asking about the AMR's, they're nice. I havent really done much spirited driving since the car lasted less than 80 miles.
so that brings us up to date so to speak.
i dropped the car off on a wednesday so the guys could get the alignment and exhaust done at their convenience and we were scheduled to tune on that saturday. friday night they put the car on the four-post lift (attached to the dyno) in prep for saturday. saturday rolls around and we start in on it, prior to dyno tuning, we decided to take care of the idle, went to crank and miraculously the timing belt just jumps. it jumped time pretty severly, and in my excitement and against my gut/better instincts I decided to listen to my closest friend when he told me to retime it, it'll be fine.
well, it wasnt. it actually bent all the exhaust valves. like i said, i ignored my gut feelings nad proceeded to tune it. on bent valves and 91 octane it made 215, losing power after 8500 like all pro2's do apparently.
fast forward an hour, bent valve turns into dropped valve and BOOM. it blew up.
decided i wanted to fix it, rebuild and hopefully reach my power goals.
so, i ordered some 12.5:1 supertech pistons and sent the block to be bored to 85 to get rid of the knicks the valve and bits left in cylinder 3. i assembled the shortblock myself, my first engine. i set my ring gap at .0015, .0018, and .0015. piston to wall is .0023 per supertechs specs, i believe.
called/pm'd derek of DDTech and got some M24XX's
the srr gears were nice, but since i decided to upgrade cams i figured id change em out too.
and since all that was done, i knew i needed a head that would perform. called larry and josh and after sending them two bad heads (first w/botched valve guide install, second w/cracked combustion chambers) larry tells me he has one. so i gave the go ahead and they did their thing. they used their "Aero" guides, new seals, supertech std size flat valves, valve springs, retainers, manley keepers, and ITR spring style lma's.
after degreeing the cams in and get the motor in the car i waited for said trusted superfriend to come by and be there for first start up. finally got it running, then it started puking oil. so, after some lookin' it was the plug in the head that i didnt use any thread sealant on. muh bad.
had to remove the head, add some teflon tape and put it back together. got it running again and boom, coolant leak. lil cap i put on the nipple on the water cross-pipe, decided to crack.
for those asking about the AMR's, they're nice. I havent really done much spirited driving since the car lasted less than 80 miles.
so that brings us up to date so to speak.