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Lost my exhaust in the process, absolutely no way the muffler is going to fit with the bar there. Hadn't heard this was an issue, but oh well, my roommate has a spare Magnaflow muffler I'm probably going to throw on.
Bar has very little, if any, preload. The only issue I see is the endlinks are a little too tall ( or maybe they are too far away from the bar, aftermarket LCA?) The bushing is almost as far as it will go (See second pic). I'm not sure if this is an issue. Anyone with more experience have an opinion?
The car feels good throwing it around some backroads. I've never pushed it too hard on the street, so I have never really dealt with understeering in that situation. I'll wait till my next autocross event in May before I have any real opinion, but it feels good so far.
There look to be a few threads left on the endlinks, but that's as low as it will go. As I said above, not sure if this is an issue. Would like to hear people's experience.
I can see where the confusion came from. I meant to say I never pushed it that hard on the street to really experience understeering so I don't know if the swaybar is making it oversteer more.
I had to install a new muffler and have a shop re-do some of the piping to the muffler in order to get around the CTR rear sway. So I got a little more noise and bling in the back, but nothing too bad. I'll post some pictures later this week.
Autocross was pretty fun, finally had good dry weather. The understeer was noticeably reduced with the rear sway, car felt nice and balanced and predictable. My only complaint about the car is my tires and alignment. I'm really interested in throwing on some r-comp or 200tw tires in the front and keeping the dz102s in the rear, and adding a couple degrees of camber in the front as camber was set for tire life not performance. The alignment will probably come sooner than later, but the tires will most likely wait as I don't want to risk the tires masking my poor driving haha.
I've also gotten into contact with a local Upholstery Shop about doing my rear bottom seats to match the Integra seat fabric. Just waiting on a cost estimate now, hoping it's not too much.
Lastly, I have the roof down to bare metal as the majority of the clear coat was shot. The roof on these cars is like a thin sheet of aluminum foil, there were a few creases and dents that were made obvious throughout the process and they have been filled and sanded as well. It's not perfect, but my roommate and I have probably spent a combined 10-15 hours on this roof and we're over it. Just going to primer it up and move on!
I used a muffler we had sitting around the garage that was on my buddies old car. I'm fairly certain it's the Magnaflow Polished 2.25'' Street Series Universal Muffler #148932. My main concern was noise, and this isn't too bad considering no other work has been done to the exhaust. It's hard to make these SOHC sound good without dropping money.
And yeah I'm excited to make the change over to good tires, just don't wanna break the bank all at once here. After reading the class rules, I'm 99.9% certain I'm in FSP now, not STS. I thought you could change the entire intake up to block, but you can only mod up to the throttle body in STS. Swapping over parts from same year civics(Not the SI unfortunately) is only an option in FSP. With that said, I have the option of running R-Comps now, and some cheap Z214s are looking pretty tempting...this would involve new wheels though too so I'm not sure what I want to do haha. On the DZ102s, I'm running at the end of the middle pack, lots of fast cars in Atlanta.
Get it registered and on the road and then take some sweet pics!
I would recommend getting some Direzza's or RE71R's in a 205/50/15. They will be good for daily driving and wont wear out as fast as you might think. Then you don't need the expense of an extra set of rims if that is a concern. Doing all 4 will be noticeable over just the front 2.
I would recommend getting some Direzza's or RE71R's in a 205/50/15. They will be good for daily driving and wont wear out as fast as you might think. Then you don't need the expense of an extra set of rims if that is a concern. Doing all 4 will be noticeable over just the front 2.
Keep up the good work!
Yeah I'm still considering that route as well. I already have 1 extra kosei k1, so I'd just need to buy another wheel and two z214s and then just swap wheels/tires when I go to events. Have you had experience with running lower grip in the rear? Since I'm only autocrossing, my thought process was having more grip in the front with z214s may be more beneficial than going RE71Rs all around for about the same cost.
Yeah I'm still considering that route as well. I already have 1 extra kosei k1, so I'd just need to buy another wheel and two z214s and then just swap wheels/tires when I go to events. Have you had experience with running lower grip in the rear? Since I'm only autocrossing, my thought process was having more grip in the front with z214s may be more beneficial than going RE71Rs all around for about the same cost.
I have never run a different compound on the rear of the car, I always ran a square setup. I personally only know one person who has done a different size and compound on the rear of their car. His reasons were that the tire he ran on the front of the car, was not available in the size he wanted for the rear. I can't be certain but I believe if he could have run the same tire compound on both ends of the car he would have done it. He was doing this on a time attack car with 700+ HP and aero and all sorts of other goodies, so it is not really an apples to apples comparison anyway.
If you are planning to get a full set of R-Compound tires eventually, then maybe getting the extra rim and two Z214's is the way to go right now. When you can afford it, all you need is two more rims and tires and your set. Having the second set of rims is definitely not a bad thing. If you start doing track days it is even nicer to have them around.
Maybe search the local SCCA and NASA forums and look for people getting rid of sets of used race tires. The competitive guys will always have a few sets around that have plenty of life left in them for autox use and people working on a tighter budget. I ran my car in a street tire time attack class and I would sell off all my old tires and it was mostly all autox people would buy them up and run them down to the cords.
Thanks for the input! Yeah I looked on my local forums the other day, unfortunately nothing has came up yet. That does remind me though, a guy running an old Porsche 911 told me he had some used stuff in my size tire, I'll need to find him again haha.
Might have to put tires on hold anyway...I think my ISB is going bad. Which means everything is getting replaced if I have to pull the transmission lol
More unexpected maintenance. Pulling the transmission in June to fix the ISB.
Purchased Competition Clutch ~11lb flywheel
OEM exedy clutch kit (I figured I'm not gonna go turbo anytime soon really, so I'll save the good stuff till then.
ISB Bearing and Seal
I'm paying someone local $200 bucks, replacing the ISB looks like a pain in the *** and I don't wanna do it.
That went out on my car as well hahah!! Just got a used EX trans for $40 but took two tries. Looking back should’ve just done the bearing.
Ive ran different compounds front to rear and different sizes. CRX started with a star spec 2 205/50/15 all around but got wide front fenders and ran a 225/45/15 rs3 up front and a 245/45/15 later and that was too unbalanced. Was going to switch the rear to a 225 but parted out the car. For autocross I loved the 225 front and 205 rear could get the rear to move under braking easily. The track day I did was not a good setup like that.
Super common and huge problem apparently! I always thought 5th and 6th generation manuals were bullet proof, but this is a pretty big issue in my opinion. But yeah, that was my first thought, the shorter gearing would be nicer too, but I couldn't find one that was low miles around me that didn't look like its sat in a junkyard for a few years. Oh well, at least the transmission I have now should be good for the remainder of it's life haha.
Originally Posted by .Grimace
Ive ran different compounds front to rear and different sizes. CRX started with a star spec 2 205/50/15 all around but got wide front fenders and ran a 225/45/15 rs3 up front and a 245/45/15 later and that was too unbalanced. Was going to switch the rear to a 225 but parted out the car. For autocross I loved the 225 front and 205 rear could get the rear to move under braking easily. The track day I did was not a good setup like that.
Interesting... a 205-225 Z214 up front might be too unbalanced with the DZ102s in the back, but the EK is definitely not going to rotate as much as the CRX, so it might be nice for autocross? I may see if I can borrow some setups and see what actually happens.
Anyway, got some more pics from the last event I went to! Also, flywheel/clutch kit is sitting in my room ready to go in!
Getting some mild three wheel action going on in the first picture! You'll also notice, I did a little bit of a bumper cut when I had my exhaust pulled off, I'm diggin the look so far, what do yall think?
Maybe you should try to install helper springs, and see what happens? People say they will try to keep tire at the ground better when you have helper springs.
Maybe you should try to install helper springs, and see what happens? People say they will try to keep tire at the ground better when you have helper springs.
It's not much of a concern for me. That tire wouldn't be doing much if it was on the ground. And besides, I'm not really looking for grip to be back there anyway.
I would recommend getting some Direzza's or RE71R's in a 205/50/15. They will be good for daily driving and wont wear out as fast as you might think. Then you don't need the expense of an extra set of rims if that is a concern. Doing all 4 will be noticeable over just the front 2.
Keep up the good work!
Definitely agree with this. I daily RE71R's on my Focus ST in warm weather (10K miles a year) and run 8 or 9 events a year. They'll last about a season and a half, but start to get a little slippery towards the end of their life. I will say that they're pretty loud compared to less aggressive summer tires but turning the radio up fixes that.
Where in the corners/on-course are you fighting understeer? Turn-in, mid-corner, or corner exit when you're getting on power? Some understeer in spots is natural in an open diff FWD car (especially corner exit on-power). You just have to tailor your driving style to work around it.
I don't know anything about your driving style so don't mind me if I'm already telling you something you know. Most of the problem I had with understeer when I still had my Mini Cooper a few years ago came from trying to carry too much speed into the turn, then applying too much brake while trying to turn (trail-braking too deep into the turn) which overloads the front tires (see: the traction circle). If you try backing up where you start to brake for the turn and try to reduce the overlap of braking and turning, it may help out a lot.
Definitely agree with this. I daily RE71R's on my Focus ST in warm weather (10K miles a year) and run 8 or 9 events a year. They'll last about a season and a half, but start to get a little slippery towards the end of their life. I will say that they're pretty loud compared to less aggressive summer tires but turning the radio up fixes that.
Where in the corners/on-course are you fighting understeer? Turn-in, mid-corner, or corner exit when you're getting on power? Some understeer in spots is natural in an open diff FWD car (especially corner exit on-power). You just have to tailor your driving style to work around it.
I don't know anything about your driving style so don't mind me if I'm already telling you something you know. Most of the problem I had with understeer when I still had my Mini Cooper a few years ago came from trying to carry too much speed into the turn, then applying too much brake while trying to turn (trail-braking too deep into the turn) which overloads the front tires (see: the traction circle). If you try backing up where you start to brake for the turn and try to reduce the overlap of braking and turning, it may help out a lot.
The RE71Rs or the new Direzza Z3s would be the answer and end to this discussion if I were still running in classes that only allow 200TW tires. Being in FSP allows r-comps though, so I'm kinda in the "Why not?" boat for going with something stickier. My roommate is running the RE71Rs on his Miata at the moment and I was mistaking his car coming down the road as a Jeep or Truck with large all-terrain tires, they definitely get loud! I want to borrow his set because we run the same size.
But I'd say I'm getting understeer pretty badly at the same time you were in the Mini. Trying to brake a little later and coming in too hot and then just overloading the front tires happened twice at my last event. With the rear bar installed I feel like I mainly experience minor understeer mid-corner, especially on longer sweepers or U-turns, but I attribute some of that to driving the car too hard on it's current tires and my inexperience. I need to learn to wind out the steering wheel better.
Really jealous of your ST though, those cars are VERY fast even in the stock and street touring classes, if I can come within a second of an ST at my events, I know I'm doing well or they really messed up haha.
Pulled the transmission Friday to prepare for replacing the ISB. Well once it was out, I found the throwout bearing to be very scratchy and worn. The input shaft had absolutely no play, and the guy who was going to replace the ISB didn't think it was the noise I was hearing. After some discussion we agreed it was probably the throwout bearing and told me not to waste the money I was going to pay him. Well after a few snags and swear words the transmission is back on with the 12lb flywheel, oem exedy clutch kit, new rear main seal, new rear mount, and a new ball joint (Old one refused to come out so I damaged it in the removal process).
The kicker here is, the noise is still there. Had a gut feeling it wasn't the throwout but the symptoms said otherwise...oh well, no shaft play so hopefully it holds out for awhile until I open it back up again for stronger clutch or I upgrade to an EX transmission in the future.
The lighter flywheel and the OEM clutch is a nice pair. Clutch pedal is way lighter and the revs feel nice and natural. Glad I chose the 12lb Competition Clutch flywheel over the 8lb Fidanza, I'm not sure I could have lived with that in a daily.
In the middle of all this I managed to mess up my coolant temp sending unit, or the wiring to it...temp gauge on the dash isn't moving at all.
Agh that sucks. Sounds like you are going down the same road I did of pulling the transmission 2 or 3 times before all is well lol. So hard to find a nice D series transmission anymore it seems.
I only did a new clutch when I was in there but wish I did a lighter flywheel. I think you mentioned it but what did he want for a new ISB and labor?
He wanted 200 for labor, which I asked around and that seemed pretty good. Kinda wishing I just had him pull it apart. I was at his house ready to do it, but he didn't want to take my money as he didn't think it was the issue (and he's done a few of them).
At least I know the shaft isn't moving all around. I think I have a while on it, I just wont do any hard drops from 1st gear haha
Seems like its been way longer than two months from my last update, but anyway...
I have most of the car ready for paint, just need to finish up the driver door, the rear quarters, and misc places like the door jams. I think I'll be color matching all the black plastic, so that will also need to be done. There are a couple car shows I'll be attending this fall, so hoping to have the car done with paint by late September, early October.
I've had a pretty bad time trying to get the rear seats finished, local shops aren't doing me any good with matching the solid color portion of the GSR confetti seats so that I can move over the patterned fabric to my stock foam. I've put a deposit down with JDM OhioDirect on some CTR ek9 black rear seats. Black should match the front GSR confettis well enough until I do something else with the front seats. The CTR rear seats are also coming with the rear hatch fabric too which is nice. I should receive these some time in September.
Also in the mail...some goodies from Redline Goods, I've ordered a Shift Boot, and an E-brake boot, both of these are black perforated leather (to match the s2000 wheel) and blue stitching (to match new exterior color). I also ordered a black leather E-brake handle cover with blue stitching. I'm not sold on the handle cover, but we'll see how it looks when it arrives.
Furthermore, I ordered some black OEM floor mats.
Maybe all these items will motivate me to finish the interior. I'm still on the fence on what to do with my armrests' fabric. I don't know if I want to just match the headliner, if only the doors should match, or do a different pattern all together.
Let me know your thoughts!
04-26-2018, 03:21 PM
Re: Jergel's EJ6 Hatchback - Autocross/Daily
I may see if I can borrow some setups and see what actually happens.
Jealous 
we'll hit you up as soon as our container lands!