What direction should I go?
09-21-2017, 11:01 PM
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What direction should I go?
whats up Honda-tech!?
Now before someone slams me for not "searching first" I did! And honestly I'm tired of scrolling through countless pages of info and not getting anywhere.
So here is my question/problem
i race in a fwd oval racing division and I'm looking for a bit more power for next season. I obviously know ways to make more power but I'm confused on what direction to go. This is for a 95 integra, rules state I have to use a motor that came in the chassis at some point. So it's either b18A/B/C
My current setup is b18b with pr3's, pnp head, arp studs, I dynoed at 151hp/141tq on a mustang dyno.
I would like to get into the 180-190 range on the dyno but don't know what route to take!
Should I stick with what I already have? Maybe add some cams? Retainers, valves? Or should I just slap a vtec head on my block and get the power that way? What's the most reliable way to make this kind of power?
Thanks in advance and sry if this is already posted somewhere. Just couldn't find anything that was circle track racing specific.
Now before someone slams me for not "searching first" I did! And honestly I'm tired of scrolling through countless pages of info and not getting anywhere.
So here is my question/problem
i race in a fwd oval racing division and I'm looking for a bit more power for next season. I obviously know ways to make more power but I'm confused on what direction to go. This is for a 95 integra, rules state I have to use a motor that came in the chassis at some point. So it's either b18A/B/C
My current setup is b18b with pr3's, pnp head, arp studs, I dynoed at 151hp/141tq on a mustang dyno.
I would like to get into the 180-190 range on the dyno but don't know what route to take!
Should I stick with what I already have? Maybe add some cams? Retainers, valves? Or should I just slap a vtec head on my block and get the power that way? What's the most reliable way to make this kind of power?
Thanks in advance and sry if this is already posted somewhere. Just couldn't find anything that was circle track racing specific.
09-22-2017, 11:09 AM
#2
Re: What direction should I go?
I'll take one stab, and one stab only at this. Considering this is your first post ever.
I normally start out with "welcome to H-T." But I'll say that you'll quickly learn we are a forum built around the concept of "tough love". (Emphasis on the "love"). But with that, searching and actually researching are two different phenomena that many people view as the same thing. So, you'll need to broaden your horizons on your idea of researching. (Remember, you can't get the right answers, if you don't know to ask the right questions.).
A lot of what you may see as responses may not be what you wanted to hear. Remember, you're asking us what's needed and our suggestions.. It doesn't mean you'll always like the responses.
1. State the specific rules (in English please, no copy-paste) of the class racing that you're doing. (Displacement, engine management, power limitations, use of catalytic converters and test-pipesetc). That way we can give you access as to whether or not certain modifications can be used to help you, or not
2. VTEC heads will always outflow (in terms of cylinder head benchflow numbers of CFMs) than non-vtec when it comes to the B-series. The cost of a VTEC head is much worth the benefits of the amount of parts combinations and choices you can run.
So, performing a VTEC head swap for that power goal is very common, very doable, and very easy to work with if more power or other characteristics are needed later To really build on a B18B head you're spending almost double the money on a stock VTEC head to give the same results.
Here's great HOW-TO on the LSVTEC stuff
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...0vtec-1676914/
3. You have to go outside of H-T to find what's actually in H-T. I know that doesn't make a lot of sense, but going to Google and getting specific with your question w/ site:Honda-Tech.com, is going to yield better results than you think. Please remember, we have over 16 years of archived topics and discussions on here. You can't be lazy with "help", or too specific in wording because over the last 5-6 years, titles for threads have been complete garbage for even Google to try and track.
4. ARP studs aren't needed. Just a good VTEC head , good management, good tune, and you're fine. Depending upon static compression, you won't even have to take the bottom end apart.
I normally start out with "welcome to H-T." But I'll say that you'll quickly learn we are a forum built around the concept of "tough love". (Emphasis on the "love"). But with that, searching and actually researching are two different phenomena that many people view as the same thing. So, you'll need to broaden your horizons on your idea of researching. (Remember, you can't get the right answers, if you don't know to ask the right questions.).
A lot of what you may see as responses may not be what you wanted to hear. Remember, you're asking us what's needed and our suggestions.. It doesn't mean you'll always like the responses.
1. State the specific rules (in English please, no copy-paste) of the class racing that you're doing. (Displacement, engine management, power limitations, use of catalytic converters and test-pipesetc). That way we can give you access as to whether or not certain modifications can be used to help you, or not
2. VTEC heads will always outflow (in terms of cylinder head benchflow numbers of CFMs) than non-vtec when it comes to the B-series. The cost of a VTEC head is much worth the benefits of the amount of parts combinations and choices you can run.
So, performing a VTEC head swap for that power goal is very common, very doable, and very easy to work with if more power or other characteristics are needed later To really build on a B18B head you're spending almost double the money on a stock VTEC head to give the same results.
Here's great HOW-TO on the LSVTEC stuff
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-mo...0vtec-1676914/
3. You have to go outside of H-T to find what's actually in H-T. I know that doesn't make a lot of sense, but going to Google and getting specific with your question w/ site:Honda-Tech.com, is going to yield better results than you think. Please remember, we have over 16 years of archived topics and discussions on here. You can't be lazy with "help", or too specific in wording because over the last 5-6 years, titles for threads have been complete garbage for even Google to try and track.
4. ARP studs aren't needed. Just a good VTEC head , good management, good tune, and you're fine. Depending upon static compression, you won't even have to take the bottom end apart.
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