WavyIntegra

Hey, new to the forum, was suggested to me by a friend as a source since I'm finally deciding to build up my 90' Integra RS.

I worked in a Honda Dealership for 7 years, saw many come and go, tuned and stock but never got an interest to build on my integra until I saw an LS-Vtec in the same car I have put down a 10 second run at englishtown..hooked, line and sinker, lol.


While i've never participated, I've done alot of work on customer and friends dual cams, Pretty good on the technical side, not to knowledgable on the product planning, after market end. Been searching alot online and I'm kinda lost as to where I should start. I Read a few builds in the other threads, but these guys were building for stratospheric power..I honestly just wanna lay down 200 at the wheel and call it a day.

One thing that caught my interest and my budget is that with GOOD HEAD work, you can extract alot of power without touching the bottom end. It's winter out..so I don't wanna tear down my car in the cold but I wouldn't mind doing head work.

Is this a good parts list to begin my journey?

B16 Head
Skunk2 Pro 2 Cams (Tuner series)
Skunk2 Pro Series Cam Gears
Crower Dual Valve Springs
Titanium Valves and Retainers
ITR Oil Pump
XTR Clutch Stage II Clutch Kit/ 9.5Lb Flywheel
(Scheduled) Port and Polish, preferably with RLZ.

Besides having a totally stock engine at this point, I HAD made some modifications to the car, Control Arms (Upper and Lower Skunk2's, Skunk2 Sports shocks and Lowering Springs w/Camber Kit, and Sway bars. I also did alot of weight shaving. Through the doors, the bumper reinforcements, Cars, Rear Seats are out, no Spare tire, even put in thinner carpeting, no Power Steering, or Air Conditioning (All in all i removed more then 200lbs of weight).


With where I stand now could I be looking at 200whp without touching the Pistons?

WavyIntegra

Second Question, is a jdm pr3 ecu of any use to me in this build?

092eg6

the head package u listed is a good start
but with the stage2 cams and a ported head, ur gonna need to up the compression on your block by using higher compression pistons, the usuals are the cast oem P30,p73,pr3 pistons, it will boost the compression up to around the 11.5+compression range.
And about the Pr3 ECU, forget about it, convert your ecu to a OBD1 ecu, a chip p28,p72,or a po5/po6 ecu thats been chipped would work the same, in that way it would be alot easier for u and the tuner to work with your car.
good luck!!

092eg6

in no possible way!!!!!

Top Ramen

Just FYI:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/general-discussion-debate-40/airline-being-sued-%245-million-loosing-cat-266476/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2696812

CerealKiller

Look around some more on here, it's honestly a great site.
Oh and welcome.

OH_1fstgsr

iTrader: (2)

You need to do some more homework.
Some parts you are missing a good Header, intake manifold, 2.5" exhaust
Your valve train should match your cams.

WavyIntegra

Did some looking around and yea you're right..

So My budget allows me to Add DC-Sport Headers/Down pipe, but someone suggest 3" instead of 2.5, that's with no-cat with a Resonator at the end..things gonna be loud but I have no problem with that. Is there an advantage of a 2.5 over 3", considering that 3" is the bigger diameter, hence more flow wouldn't it be better?

Secondly, My cousin said I can have his AEM-Fuel Rail and Pressure regulator and I think they were 330 Fuel Injectors, but someone told me the 3' are ENTIRELY to big for this motor naturally aspirated and I could get backfiring.

gstrudler

3" crush bent wouldn't be bad; 2.5" mandrel is probably your best bet. 3" mandrel bent i would think would be a bit large as you will likely lose too much velocity.

i would also suggest the tuner series cam gears, people have had problems with the pro series gears cracking.

you'll gain a little with the dc-header, but you're better off saving your money and waiting and getting a better header.

all-mtr-teg

I agree with you on all your advice except the "3" being too big".

To the OP, a 3" will not make you lose power. If I recall, marcel posted up dyno with 2.5 to 3" comparison, 3" made more power throughout entire powerband. Velocity may drop a bit, but overall restriction will be reduced, which is a good thing.

WavyIntegra

Well I priced some SKunk2 Headers, and after some looking around and asking I'm told that It's a better header over the DC Sports (Which is cool because I'm an absolute FAN of Skunk2, my entire suspension is composed of the brand, reliable, outstanding performance, easy to install.)

My advice runs hand and hand with your suggestion of Tuner Series cams, so That will definitely be the choice.

As I said I don't wanna get into the Block..I have the money to do piston work but I don't have the workplace/patience as they won't let me do this work at my job. I have a Acura CL-Type S in the backyard I can use as a daily driver until the work is done yea but still..i'll be in 10 degree weather trying to tear down a block and that doesn't even sound like something I wanna get into...nor am I trying to more milage on the CL (Had the thing for years now, doesn't even have 40,000 miles yet.) So I wanna make 200hp like..QUICKLY without having to get CRAZY in this build...going crazy on this build at this point contradicts my goal.

WavyIntegra

So after some more reading around, and advice from a few guys around here with the same build, I've gone ahead and ordered the parts I listed and I'm excited as all hell! I've been driving around my stocker for years and i'm souped as to how much faster it's gonna be with the parts.

However, TODAY at work a guy came in with an LS/Vtec build sporting Individual Throttle Body's..I absolutely LOVE the sound and after I did his alignment and oil change, on the test run the thing the thing REALLY pulls (Should I feel bad about digging into a customer's car during the test drive? Cuz I don't, lol..) and between the ITB's and the Exaust I found out that an exaust note can give me an erection..wow.

Anyway, i'm highly interested in them. I've seen a few threads around here with them, and I zero'd in on a particular brand..has anyone had any success or downfalls using the Magnesium ITB's from Kinsler ? The 62mm ones or any size for that matter.

1.5Slowmatic

are you going to DD the car? If you are you dont wanna mess with ITBs. Better off with a manifold.

WavyIntegra

I'm not even gonna sit here and act like I know what "DD'ing" means, treat me like a Rookie when it comes to after market modding..I know how to keep them running stock all day, I'm paid for it, and while I know how Turbo's, Better Cams, ect, ect, ect things work, i'm not versed as to how or why their better over stock and all terms applicable to their implementation..

If this helps, I don't plan on adding Turbo's, Super Charging or anything to the car, I want to keep the bottom end stock , although everyone I talk to, every thread I'm seeing, suggest that I should change out the piston and rods, another guy even said Micropolish and balance the crank! I'm like...What?! Dude, no?! Just for 200?!!

It's, snows coming down...I'ma "Keep it stock" kinda guy and i'm already going outta my box attempting head work alone so...In your honest opinion at this point should I be seeing 200 or even close at the wheels without pistons with my current parts?

1.5Slowmatic

DD is Daily Drive. Your probably better off with a manifold. Id look into the edelbrock performer x. And no you wont see 200. The compression is way to low for those cams and having headwork done

WavyIntegra

Oh ok..yea, i'm going to daily drive it. I Have an Acura CL-Type S but that's my sweet heart, mint, garage kept no plans on putting more use to it, only until this is done (Because I have the head off the car).

I'm not going to even ask you would a Thinner head gasket or something raise my compression enough..

So basically, if Pistons are out of the equation then so is 200hp at the wheel, fair enough to assume that?

K7-1Ktrevor

I have a fully built head for sale, as well as skunk2 tuner 3 cams
pm me or look in my for sale thread.

2001B18C1GS-R

deff send your head to rlz and spend the most you can on porting becasue it will repay you in the long run i recommend supertech valvetrains skunk2 pro1 or 2 cams and some rs machine pistions but is you must go oem then some jdm itr ..... sry so sloppy typing from f-up phone and also if you got the money sleeved your block from 81mm to 84mm

GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

gstrudler

I think you're going to be in over your head if you try to go ITB's. They will give you amazing throttle response, but dyno's have shown you can make the same power with a well designed intake & manifold setup. With ITB's you will need to figure out a way to put a filter on them if you're driving it on the street (which probably means a plenum and intake), and more importantly a standalone engine manangement system (aem ems, motec, etc) with a full tune.

For 200whp you won't need a lot of porting, you can probably get away with a good valve job. I still think 3" is too big for the exhaust (not that it matters as it appears you have ordered parts already); I believe all the dyno's that have been posted have all been crush bent setups, which will actually flow less than 2.5" mandrel anyway.

1.5Slowmatic

there is a dyno in the king thread of the skunk 70mm over 60mm and it made more power everywhere. thats 2.36 vs 2.75 roughly. 3in will do fine as long as the motor is tuned for it. Bisi himself also recommends 3in for max power prouction NA.