djames96

I have a 00 Integra LS, non-vtec b18b1 201k mi on it

I was debating on a turbo or NA build and I really love the sound of my b series as is so I figured NA would be the way to go. It's completely stock except an upgrade fuel pump.

So far I know I want to get I/H/E done first although from what I was told upgrading intakes on Teggys can kill the motors apparently? So I was thinking about getting a GSR intake if it's swappable and then going aftermarket on headers and exhaust.

I don't know much about what goes into NA builds, so I was looking on advice on what internals to swap. Right now I have $1k which would be enough for I/|H/E but I would rather build it all in one shot.


Give me references on brands and what not, ideally I'd like to make it as fast as my 9th gen Si that pushed 260whp but I'd be content with 220-240whp for the time being.

Another stupid question; if I build NA can I later turbo and tune for even more bang for my buck?

Edit: I plan on taking it to a shop and having it stocked tuned to refresh the engine and clean her out

DumpdEJ6

Ok, there's a lot to touch on here, so let me break it down a little.

1. Throw that 260whp goal right out the window. Right out. With $1k to play with, you might, MIGHT get 150 at the wheels. Maybe.

2. $1k will go by like nothing. Budget $250 for a tune, $100 minimum for a chipped ecu that you even CAN tune. So that's a third of your budget right there.

3. The best bang for your buck is to do a VTEC head swap. This isn't "bolt on", but if you're thrifty you can maybe swap heads and get tuned for $1k. Nothing else will make a difference, unfortunately. Intake, header, exhaust will also exhaust (no pun intended) your budget but will net you maybe 10whp when all is said and done, whereas the VTEC head swap will get you more like 30whp.

4. If you aren't prepared to do the head swap, get a cheap 2"-2.5" aluminum piping kit on eBay, a Blox velocity stack/filter, 2.5" exhaust kit, and try to find a knockoff 4-2-1 exhaust header. Get a chipped ECU, get it tuned, and there you go.

5. Alternatively, you can try to do a budget turbo build. That will give you the most potential as stock B18 non-vtec engines should be ok for up to 250whp if they are in decent condition. The only problem is with only $1k to play with, it's probably not going to be reliable at all.

djames96

I've decided to go stock b18b1/turbo since it seems to be the most bang for my buck and cost efficient. Let's say 1k covers the tune and IHE, what are some reputable turbo kits? Is it cheaper to buy piece by piece? Can I buy used? This would be my first turbo build. I'd assume they make full kits including intercooler and piping for integras.

DumpdEJ6

I'm not super knowledgeable about turbos, but I know a good kit with quality parts will run you around $3k. Don't worry though, because all the kids nowadays just get an ebay turbo kit and run it ragged. So while you won't be in *good* company, you'll be in the majority if you go that direction.

If you're going turbo, there's no need to do bolt ons. You'll be replacing the exhaust header with a turbo manifold anyway, and an intake tube/filter for a naturally aspirated engine won't fit a turbo engine anyway. Exhaust just needs to mate up to the manifold, 2.5" is probably a good size to get.

Chance EG

VTEC head swap would be cheapest option for NA and good bump in power. IHE isn't worthwhile on a non-VTEC engine.

Go-Autoworks for good and effective turbo kit. Would be a minimum of $2500-$3000 though when accounting for fuel/ECU/clutch as well.

wunfstgsr

If you ask me just save for the turbo kit, look up and ask Go Auto works for a street kit that works good for you. This one here is a good kit that might work perfect for you,

GO-AUTOWORKS StreetX Turbo Kit Ball Bearing D16 B16 B18 B20 Civic Integra Del Sol CRX

Putting on a header, intake ect.. would be in my opinion a waist for minimal power gains that you will soon get bored from very fast. Just save for a good turbo kit and get it tuned! the most you will need besides the turbo kit will be a exhaust and EMS to tune. You can find a 3'' exhaust used for cheap as well as a used Hondata S200 or S300 on the net, you will save your money in the end! the turbo kit will replace the intake and header you buy anyway so just skip it, You will like a boosted LS WAY more than a N.A setup trust me!

NoKz

There's a lot you need to lookup because of the year of your vehicle. I also have a '00 LS and there were all kinds of things I had to figure out.

• OB2B to OBD1 harness instead of OBD2A to OBD1.
• Tach not working after ECU swap (Tach gets reading from ECU)
• Vacuum lines needed and not needed.

I mean, honestly, you need to determine what the vehicle is gonna be used for.

• Daily
• Track Car
• Drag Car
• Mexico Racing League

This will help determine what would be the best choice for you. The easiest and most reliable will be to stay N/A and go LSVTEC. Even then, I spent close to $2,000. Admittedly, I bought a lot of higher-end and OEM parts for reliability and the conversion can be done quite cheaper. With all that done, I made 172hp on a Built B16 Head and Stock Block. All that money was literally for the head and not touching the B18B block. $1,000 on these cars goes like nothing.

If you want a breakdown of everything that was done, you can see it HERE.

You're gonna spend a LOT of money if you want that much power N/A. If you're looking for roughly 220hp, you'll want to go B20V with rods, high-comp pistons and built head. So, expect to pay more for the motor than the car. A lot more.

I mean, you can, but I'd change a couple of things. If you run high-comp pistons in the N/A build, you may want to swap them out for something that's roughly 10.1:1. You'll also need to make sure the rings are gapped for the boost levels you're targeting.

JRCivic1

What is done to this car to make that kind of power ???

JKaze

Tachometer gets revolution speed signal directly from ICM (which is in distributor), not from ECU.

NoKz

For 94-99 you are correct.

But, I like stated earlier, 2000 and 2001 OBD2B Integras require you to run a wire from the Blue Wire on the Dizzy to the Tach test plug on the drivers side. It is only required for these TWO years of DC/DB chassis.

Source: https://www.hamotorsports.com/obd2-h...-tach-fix.html

@djames96 See, this is the type of information I had to sort through when diagnosing the issue. And now my tach works fine.

JKaze

^Oh, then it differs from any other OBD2Bs. I apologize and stand corrected

NoKz

No problem. I don't know what you mean by other OBD2Bs, but here's a breakdown for Integras.

• 1994-1995 : OBD1
• 1996-1999: OBD2A
• 2000-2001: OBD2B

JKaze

I mean specially 99-00 EK Civics. I have swapped multiple ECUs and everything work right just plug’n’play.

JRCivic1

The '99-00 Civic gauge cluster does in fact get the tach signal pulse from the ECU and not from the distributor. Commonly, the adapter harness used to convert to another ECU, especially if it is an earlier OBD-2A or OBD-1 ECU, will have the tach output wire connected to the ICM wire because the pulse is the same. So it works... even though what happens behind the scenes is different than what you thought.

JKaze

Well, wiring diagrams (ECU, distributor, instrument cluster) tells another story. But, I maybe figure out why. I have mainly worked only with native B16 Civics (EDM/JDM).