Paul-eg

Hey,

As the car sits it has:
B20 Block
84.5mm JE 12.2:1 pistons
JE pro seal rings
Golden Eagle girdle kit
Golden eagle block guard
DRN ported GSR head
Victor X intake manifold
70mm TB
Supertech springs and retainers
Supertech .5mm over sized flat valves
Skunk 2 pro 3 valves
Moroso Catch can going to the 2 nipples of the back of the block

This motor has about 2500km on it and was going through about 1L of oil ever 750KM.
The motor made 237WHP. Compression is 260 on each cylinder. When we did a wet compression test numbers didn't change that much and the leak down was between 0-2%.
We pulled the intake manifold off and exhaust manifold off and the intake side had oil in it so this led us to lead it was intake valve seals. Re did that and still smoked so we figured it might of been guides. We pulled the head off and took it down to the machine shop. They checked the head over and they say its fine? The cylinder walls look fine too. I just don't want to go throwing more money at it with out guaranteeing the issue. Any one run into something like this before?

Paul-eg

Here are some pictures of cylinder walls.

PyroProblem

Does it smoke under WOT?
Is your catchcan collecting alot of oil?

Paul-eg

Catch can had some blow by but not crazy by any means. I would empty it every week or two. Didn't make a difference if the can was empty.
It smoked on WOT and on decel. I could see a cloud of smoke blow by after I stopped at a light. The motor always felt strong though.

vtec8200

what oil do you use

PyroProblem

Do you have the stock pcv system in place with the catchcan? Or just the catchcan alone?

Paul-eg

b20 blocks don't have the black box/pcv on the back of the block. Its just the two h22 nipples on the back of the block going to the catch can.
I have been using non synthetic 10w40. Tried 5w30 but didn't make a difference.

PyroProblem

Stupid me...I forgot, lol

Does the oil seem to get dirty rather quickly?
I noticed when my old engine was getting tired, the oil would dirty quickly...

My old 2L used to smoke a little at WOT with the stock pcv system in place. I added a catchcan and vented the 2 block ports and it greatly improved....

I wonder if adding more crankcase ventilation might help?

Is there any way you could hook a pressure gauge to your factory valvecover vent and watch it while driving?

Basic questions, but I have to ask...
Stock OEM valveseals?
Valveseals installed correctly on the correct sides?
Pro 3s are big cams...No retainer to valvestem contact?

If all thats good, theres not really much else that it could be besides rings

Paul-eg

When the head was built it was all new supertech seals. When we redid the intake side with all oem Honda and yes they were in the right side.

What would cause only the oil in the intake side if the cylinder head and in the runners of the intake manifold?

Aesthetic Gains

iTrader: (1)

How tight did you make your piston to wall clearances?
Usually, rings that weren't seated properly cause this issue. I'm almost certain it could be your pistons/rings. Specially if you're experiencing high amounts of blow-by. Try using a bigger oil pan, this might help solve your problem.

Paul-eg

I cant remember what the machinist set the piston to wall clearaces too.
If the ptw clearaces are too loose what options do I have? Also how would a bigger oil pan help?

xzodiackillerx

it sounds like you have your crankcase venting into your intake .. put the catchcan between the block and the intake.

negusjuda

i was gonna ask about clearences also forged pistons if im not mistaken are known to have some blow by

cpl rampage

What did you break the engine in with?

negusjuda

i know my b20vtec dumps a good amount of oil into the catch can but dosent smoke.

Paul-eg

How would I have that? The catch can goes right to the two nipples I installed on the back of the block and the stock pipe in the valve cover has a little filter on it. Nothing leads to the intake manifold.

stumpyf4

I would suggest adding more crankcase breathing. Install 2 nipples to the front of the valve cover and run to another moroso can.

I remember seeing an all motor endyn build running 2 cans like this. It's worth trying before condeming the rings

LOVEMYHATCHB18C

You got me man. I dont know what it cud be

Mr. EG

It's most likely poorly seated rings.

cpl rampage

I agree, what oil did you break it in with, and what process did you use to break it in?

mikesrex

a friend of mine has the same issue with his B20VTEC. he has a breather box with the hoses going to the front of his valvecover.

my question would be how is oil accumulating on the intake ports in the head and runners in the intake manifold? We just took the head off and put new valvestem seals in, so hopefully this will stop the oil consumption. FYI this motor my friend has runs a ported GSR head, GSR crank/rods and some 85mm bore ITR-replica pistons from fjdistributors. Compression test yields around 250 across the board.

sowellman88011

when you had the block honed did they hone the cylinders to je's specifications? alot of machine shops dont do it but different rings need different cross hatches. if they didnt that might be why the rings might have not seated.

prodragEG

I'm going through the exact same **** with my build, and mine has OEM internals. Just hit the 10k and it's bin gradually burning oil, I'm burning about 1qrt a month without driving under vtec. Smokes like a chimney at WOT, My build.....

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...tec+stock+cams

Running moroso catch can from back of block
Motor got broken in on dyno with and tuned( 30 weight non detegent)
Leak down less than 2%
Compression at 240 across
Took off the intake mani and noticed oil on top of the valves


Have bin talking to my local machine shop and next step is took have them inspect the head, just haven't had the time or money to get it done

pr0honda

Why is the hone so rough. Looks like the wrong stone grit as usual. Did you ask for a step hone as CP or Supertec, Wiseco ask for?

Paul-eg

Pulled a piston out today. Rings are in properly with the bevel on the second ring facing down. Going to take it to the machine shop tomorrow and have them inspect it. Also going to take a dial bore gauge and make sure the walls are good. Will a set of Hastings rings be fine for these pistons and what type of hone should I use this time around?