Dyce

hello H-T. recently i recieved a free bare b16a block from a friend. Recently, i just finished the block with ctr pistons, new oem rods shotpeened for arp rod bolts. and arp headstuds.
I figured that since i built the block, i would build the head too. My plans for the head were: supertech springs & retainers, and skunk2 tuner 2 cams with dyno tune. My goal was to hit 200hp (atleast to the crank or to the wheels if lucky). is this goal possible or should i just leave the head alone stock.

I dont care for frankenstein builds // Its for a DD so reliability is one of my main factors // I dont care about torque, its a DD not an all out track car // i know that b16's arent the beast and other b-series and k-series motors exist. but im a college student with a very small budget

95skunkedgsr

well of money is a option then i wouldnt go to crazy with it and worry to much about 200 hp i would shoot for 180 in your case ... and with wat your plans are that your talkin about doin u would be lucky to get that to the wheels not 200

TorquelessEM1

Do not leave the head alone! Thats where all the power is when it comes to a B16!

anothersickhatch

to be honest, i actually loved my b16. it was a great motor and i made 189 to the wheels. i didn't use the stage 2's though because they sucked for a daily driver. i had to rev to 9 to get any use out of them. i went with the stage 1's and i really enjoyed them.

along with those cams were ctr pistons, skunk2 valvetrain, dc jdm type-r header with 2.5in exhaust, type-r manifold, some random short ram intake, and hondata s100.

UncleD

iTrader: (2)

Are you just looking to make dyno #'s or are you more curious about having a quick car? What chasis is this going in and what transmission are you using?

Dyce

anothersickhatch - what brand stage 2 cams did you use? the tuner that I talked to about my planned build said that the skunk2 tuner2's arent bad for DD

dyno numbers would be nice, but i am just looking to get a respectible amount of power out of my b16. i love it and decided that i wanted to build the underdog and see what it's potential is.

this setup is going into an 2000 coupe

V8 Eater

in my opinion what the b16 lacks in (no torque or bottom end) would be further pronounced if you were to play around with it,I mean TB,intake manifolds,intakes,headers,cat-back,specially cams all hurt the low-mid rev range making it a horrible drive in traffic and daily commute not to mention the added vibration and noise.

I would rather start with trying to get the most displacement for what your willing to spend.get a gsr,itr,ls or b20 bottom end and your already near that 200 crank hp

BlackDeuceCoupe

Dittos! I l-o-v-e my B16A2/S4C!

Really, I think it's THE perfect combo for a DD...

I drive a 100 miles a day (80% freeway). And, it gets 40+ MPG on a mixture of regular unleaded/acetone!

It's in a '98 HX shell, and the light chassis makes up for the lack of low end torque.

I've never been beat, coming off a light thanks to the 'lack' of torque, e.g. tire spin, and only had a couple of cars keep up with me on the top end.

The 4.44 final drive bugs some ppl - cruising down the road at 4500 RPM or whatever, but it saves a lot of shifting. I never have to downshift to pass somebody!

The only other motor I would even consider running is a H22A, but you didn't ask about that...

V8 Eater

when you say unleaded/aceton do you mean you actually add acetone as a fuel additive?

I have heard it ups the octane points and gets better mileage,

but I never had the guts to use it since many sites say it actually causes harm to your fuel delivery system very fast.

If so how would you describe the difference?any faster? better mileage?

anothersickhatch

i used the skunk2 stage 2's, the same ones that the op wants to use.

and about the whole "torque"/ lack of low end power...this is why honda gave the b16 its short transmission. to make up for the lack or torque. it really is great for a daily driver. i like it almost as much as my old 1.8 liter build. the only reason i liked my gsr more is because it made 30 more horsepower.

UncleD

iTrader: (2)

I have a CTR motor in my hatch and I too wanted to see what I could do with it. Obviously B16A/B's are a "top end" motor, so the mods that I have done are to emphasize that particular characteristic. I chose a camshaft that is known to carry power high, I chose VT that can handle 10K+ rpm's if need be, an intake/IM/header/exhaust that will keep with the air flow + even shorter gearing. I haven't been to the track nor have it all put together yet, but when I get my head back(valvejob), I will try to post some track times. The only thing that some may not like is the rpm's are ALWAYS up there. It doesn't bother me cuz I put maybe 1k a year on my car, but for a daily I think the gearing might get old. At 70 mph:


(Hence the iPod)

biotech0123

If your on any tight budget then I'd say go with another motor. Cost me a lot of money to get my b16 making over 200 at the crank.

anothersickhatch

well if he goes with another motor, lets say a b18, i think that it will get old to him in stock form. hes going to want to modify that in a short while, so he may as well keep the motor he has, buy parts for it, and then transfer the parts to a new motor when he gets the chance. all of the mods that he gets, if he plans it correctly, should be a great fit for a 1.8 or a 2.0 liter when he eventually buys one. (except for the intake manifold, but those are what, 300?)

blinx9900

Thats funny, thats the exact advice i gave on the stroking a b16 thread, you steal my info yet you insult my knowledge, real classy man... your a clown.

You clown adding acetone to your car will not increase mileage or make if faster, the goal is to increase your octane rating, but your too dense to know that, octane is your fuels ability to resist detonation, so you can run more ign timing and leaner af's. But you probably cant even understand what im saying.

Chris Tune

if you know what you are doing u can make a shitload of power on a simple b16... if not, then ull be another in the bunch.

V8 Eater

dude you are your own cousin,this is the only way you could be this stupid! I mean do u know how many others including me have given that advice,not as many times as ur mom got picked up but still alot!



again super moron! it was a question, meaning I too had doubts it would give those results! plus I too said it would up the octane sooo what are u saying tard! by the way if your car was made to run on 100 octane in japan (b16b-b18cr)which is equal to 96 here and you put 91 guess what happens you loose hp, your ecu will detune itself once the knock sensor notices that!
so now tell me after I dump acetone and acheive +96 octane what would happen,smart ***,

blinx9900

I'm sorry i don't understand your handicap language, can you please tell your mother to take a shower though, i can smell her foul odor from here and its disgusting.

I will make it my job to follow you around this forum and talk **** to you every chance i get to see how you like it, you want to come on all my threads and start **** thats fine, i can do the same, lets see how you like it you inbred piece of trash.

V8 Eater

thats your comeback?

why couldnt you answer my question Mr.know it all mech!

blinx9900

I stand by my statement that adding higher octane fuel does not raise horsepower, per your arguement whats actually happening is the ECU is reducing horsepower (by using knock control) and the higher octane fuel is allowing the ecu to return to its normal opperating state, the fact remains you are NOT gaining horsepower, is that a good enough answer for you or was it too complicated for you to understand?

V8 Eater

no its not a good enough answer, pretty well show how your mechanical knowledge is crap!

Its simple math 190+10= 10 gain. your whp is an average of %15 loss lighter pulleys,flywheels etc bring that to lets say %13= you have gained %2 whp or power!

you have no alternative at regular pumps for a 100 octane tuned b18cr therefore acetone does gain power by bringing back the power you lost!

FST GSR 1

Average loss in a FWD is not 15%

blinx9900

I do not think there is a human in this world who understand what your saying here, you do know the primary language of this forum is English correct?


Your still back at STOCK power level. I thought the goal of modifying cars was to gain power OVER stock. So by your logic piston rings add power because if they are in bad shape then you will be down on power so adding new ones will raise your power so piston rings ADD power right? WRONG! fixing something broken is not gaining power, its restoring it.

V8 Eater

just a great example of an know it all,someone who says NOTHING but the oposite of others(please check his tread responses)

OMG,please educate us FST GSR what should we estimate our fwd drivetrain loss to be for the future?lol

Iam sorry but unfortunatly wikipedia,hondamagazine,importtuner,honda-tech,asia-vtec,most dyno's numbers all indicate that percentage on average but there probably wrong!

blinx9900

The word is THREAD not TREAD, btw if your info comes from importtuner and wikipedia you have a lot to learn, how about learning from HANDS ON EXPERIENCE.

V8 Eater

your the only one who has problems understanding me so thats ok, shows that your reading is just as bad as your commen sense and mech knowledge so that fine!

and please go back to school for many reasons like growing up, learning math, learning what restore really means, a gain is from where you start, with a jdm b18cr that runs on 100 octane you have started with a detune(a loss) by restoring lost power you have gained power. you never had the full potential of a jdm engine to begin with!