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My K20 rebuild

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Old 02-02-2009, 01:00 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Very impressive Chunky
Old 02-04-2009, 11:01 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Looking good! When you got those cams was there any info on how they were different from earlier versions? Different lift/duration or just different profile to allow a higher red line maybe? Also, you may have mentioned this already, but how are you adjusting the angle on the exhaust cam--adjustable after market gear? Or are you just "retarding" it manually for testing clearances? I've heard of some people using the non-vtec exhaust cam gear because it's much lighter than the one off the vtec head. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks for sharing the progress!
Old 02-04-2009, 06:00 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Originally Posted by flyrod
Looking good! When you got those cams was there any info on how they were different from earlier versions? Different lift/duration or just different profile to allow a higher red line maybe? Also, you may have mentioned this already, but how are you adjusting the angle on the exhaust cam--adjustable after market gear? Or are you just "retarding" it manually for testing clearances? I've heard of some people using the non-vtec exhaust cam gear because it's much lighter than the one off the vtec head. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks for sharing the progress!
seeing this makes me want to learn K motors.

great thread. its a welcome break from the usual "why doesnt my stock B16 with M24xx run well?" threads.
Old 02-05-2009, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rcracin13
Looking good. We should design a clear valve cover so the cams can be seen. I too thought it was a shame that beautiful cams and the beauty of the valvetrain is all hidden away out of sight.
i actually saw a tv programn where they had a strip of lexan on the top/roof of the valve cover rivted to it. so where it was see through, looked pretty cool when it was running dirty waterfall

it was on some guys cigerrette boat
Old 02-05-2009, 07:53 AM
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subscribed
good job OP
Old 02-12-2009, 09:10 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Originally Posted by flyrod
Looking good! When you got those cams was there any info on how they were different from earlier versions? Different lift/duration or just different profile to allow a higher red line maybe? Also, you may have mentioned this already, but how are you adjusting the angle on the exhaust cam--adjustable after market gear? Or are you just "retarding" it manually for testing clearances? I've heard of some people using the non-vtec exhaust cam gear because it's much lighter than the one off the vtec head. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks for sharing the progress!
The functional difference is that the K2 Mark III are designed for high compression 2.0L motors. They're the natural evolution of the K2 series to accomodate the more mature 2.0L builds out there. The original K2 were totally optimized for a stock block & head.

Anyhow, I've really got to update this thread. The motor is actually running now. I should have her on the dyno soon enough.
Old 02-13-2009, 05:33 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

good to hear chunky..can't wait for more updates
Old 02-13-2009, 04:45 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Originally Posted by chunky
The functional difference is that the K2 Mark III are designed for high compression 2.0L motors. They're the natural evolution of the K2 series to accomodate the more mature 2.0L builds out there. The original K2 were totally optimized for a stock block & head.
Yeah, Functionally they're supposed to be better. The greatest thing since sliced bread and a bigger better mousetrap. Nobody wants last year's technology. It's never functionally worse is it? lol.

I've got my K2 8620 sheet, can you at least quote/PM me the gross numbers at .05" lift for a rough comparison of my Mark 2s? Or is that super secret squirrel data where a leak of such info is tantamount to a serious security infraction (punishable by up to $100K in fines and perhaps execution for treason), since the Chinreese might soon replicate the IPS übernuke-powered high CR K20 build cam angle/ramp rate geometry on the cheap and shame us all into mere low eleven passes at the strip? lol. Afterall there is a high degree of hush hush and exclusivity surrounding these items from my perspective.

Anyway thanks for sharing what you have on your build and good luck on the dyno.

Pirate, Who's looking forward to exercising 'is God-given American right to Title 5 of the United States Code, section 552. :D (I should lay off the sauce. Woot Friday!)
Old 02-16-2009, 08:39 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Originally Posted by PirateMcFred
Yeah, Functionally they're supposed to be better. The greatest thing since sliced bread and a bigger better mousetrap. Nobody wants last year's technology. It's never functionally worse is it? lol.

I've got my K2 8620 sheet, can you at least quote/PM me the gross numbers at .05" lift for a rough comparison of my Mark 2s? Or is that super secret squirrel data where a leak of such info is tantamount to a serious security infraction (punishable by up to $100K in fines and perhaps execution for treason), since the Chinreese might soon replicate the IPS übernuke-powered high CR K20 build cam angle/ramp rate geometry on the cheap and shame us all into mere low eleven passes at the strip? lol. Afterall there is a high degree of hush hush and exclusivity surrounding these items from my perspective.

Anyway thanks for sharing what you have on your build and good luck on the dyno.

Pirate, Who's looking forward to exercising 'is God-given American right to Title 5 of the United States Code, section 552. :D (I should lay off the sauce. Woot Friday!)
Unfortunately, the specs I am aware of are meant to be under wraps for now. I do have the first consumer set so I think it's best to let the results speak more loudly than the specs.

Here's a short sound clip of the engine at high idle during the breakin.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RD7KhxzWpig

There's a lot of bass in that exhaust. :p
Old 02-19-2009, 01:58 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

wow. You are really doing your prep work. I hate people who just throw a motor together.
Old 02-19-2009, 03:36 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Originally Posted by PirateMcFred
Yeah, Functionally they're supposed to be better. The greatest thing since sliced bread and a bigger better mousetrap. Nobody wants last year's technology. It's never functionally worse is it? lol.

I've got my K2 8620 sheet, can you at least quote/PM me the gross numbers at .05" lift for a rough comparison of my Mark 2s? Or is that super secret squirrel data where a leak of such info is tantamount to a serious security infraction (punishable by up to $100K in fines and perhaps execution for treason), since the Chinreese might soon replicate the IPS übernuke-powered high CR K20 build cam angle/ramp rate geometry on the cheap and shame us all into mere low eleven passes at the strip? lol. Afterall there is a high degree of hush hush and exclusivity surrounding these items from my perspective.

Anyway thanks for sharing what you have on your build and good luck on the dyno.

Pirate, Who's looking forward to exercising 'is God-given American right to Title 5 of the United States Code, section 552. :D (I should lay off the sauce. Woot Friday!)
Buy BLOX.
Old 02-19-2009, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BlazedD
Buy BLOX.
Why would I want to do that?
Old 02-24-2009, 07:23 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Finally got around to doing some street tuning. The K2 Mark III primary map looks totally different from what I'm used to seeing on the old iron core K2 maps. There's a lot more fuel going in as well. I haven't had a chance to start street tuning the VTEC lobe yet, but things look promising thus far. I cannot wait to get her fully tuned.

Also, a smoothly tuned part throttle map makes such a huge difference in normal driving. The car is much smoother transitioning on and off the throttle now.
Old 02-24-2009, 07:44 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

bitchin man, cant wait to see some numbers on this little beast. that idle sounds sweet
Old 02-25-2009, 11:43 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Originally Posted by chunky
The K2 Mark III primary map looks totally different from what I'm used to seeing on the old iron core K2 maps.
That is surprising. IPS must have made some significant changes then. It's nice when you have to add fuel to the tables after making changes to the hardware; should make for a good day at the dyno. How is the piston slap after all your careful measurements? Thanks for the update and good luck with the high cam tuning and dyno!
Old 03-03-2009, 10:37 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

It seems you guys are blown away by the engineering put into this, hey me to! But to read another great write up check out this RWD H22 integra that this guy has built up.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...TopicID=106670
Old 03-03-2009, 04:59 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

can i get the link for the supertech pistons? thread is very informative!
Old 03-03-2009, 11:40 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Originally Posted by flyrod
That is surprising. IPS must have made some significant changes then. It's nice when you have to add fuel to the tables after making changes to the hardware; should make for a good day at the dyno. How is the piston slap after all your careful measurements? Thanks for the update and good luck with the high cam tuning and dyno!
Yeah, the K2 Mark III cam profile is quite different on both the primary & VTEC lobes. Piston slap isn't bad at startup. No noise once the engine is warm.

Originally Posted by dangmedcalf
It seems you guys are blown away by the engineering put into this, hey me to! But to read another great write up check out this RWD H22 integra that this guy has built up.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...TopicID=106670
Wow, that guys work is nuts. Definitely a much larger project than I'd ever have time for at this point in my life.

Originally Posted by bjones
can i get the link for the supertech pistons? thread is very informative!
supertech website:
http://www.supertechperformance.com/

I bought mine from http://www.vpfab.com/
Old 03-04-2009, 09:51 PM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Some preliminary numbers & vids are up.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...3#post37650753

Thanks to mainstream performance & vteckidd

Car made 236 SAE and 242 STD. I don't have torque numbers b/c the RPM pickup on the dyno was acting funny. There's definitely more power in there. The tune needs some work and I've still got some things I need to dial in mechanically. I'm also still waiting on the Hytech header, which is when I'll do the full tune.
Old 03-25-2009, 08:39 AM
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Long time no update. Motor has crossed 3k miles, no issues to speak of. I've kind of held off on really dialing in the tune because I'm still waiting on the Hytech header, which will go on with a 2.5" exhaust.

All the exhaust parts are here pretty much. Just waiting on the header.
Old 03-27-2009, 11:59 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Thanks for all the good info
Old 05-04-2009, 03:24 PM
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Just thought I'd update this thread with my latest progress. I ditched the old 3" exhaust and went with a new 2.5". Check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJG7KTGeaQM

Fancy oval tip. Not perfectly centered, but pretty close. Had to make some concessions b/c of how the muffler was angled in the underbody cavity.


I wanted to have the muffler before the rear suspension.


The benefit is no weight hanging off the rear of the car. Just a void where most mufflers go. You can see the band clamp used here over a slip fit joint. It was a tight fit, but it works with 2.5" pipe.


Again, a band clamp used on a slip fit joint. These are great for flow & ground clearance.


Check out that ground clearance. Way better than with my old 3" exhaust.


Again, big thanks to Charles @ Mainstream Performance for TIG welding it all up just the way I wanted it. It wasn't easy to make the bigass muffler work in that location, but he got it done.
Old 05-06-2009, 07:07 PM
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sounds awsome man what muffler is that
Old 10-18-2010, 08:12 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

First, excellent work on looking up CTE, doing the math, and heating them up and measuring!

Originally Posted by chunky
After 20,000+ miles, my 230ish hp 9000+rpm k20 bit the dust. More specifically, the cylinder #3 piston bit the dust.
~230whp on dynojet with 12.5CR and IPS cams correct? Isn't that kind of low?

So based on that experience, I decided that this time around I'd go for pistons made of a lower expansion alloy. The only off the shelf pistons for a k-series made of 4032 are the supertech.
Unless I'm mistaken ENDYN's Wiseco RollerWaves are available in 4032 for NA use.


The Supertech has a wider skirt that is also a little longer. The crown of the piston is also a little thicker. The supertech piston also has less taper from the crown to the bottom of the skirt. This makes sense as it is constructed from an alloy that expands less as it heats up.
I had a conversation with a friend (who's built quite a # of engines himself) and he made these comments:

"That is exactly the reason why you don't make your strutted pistons too short. lol. shorter the better for skirts on girls, not always such a good thing for pistons. lol. you can have a whopping 5 grams of extra piston mass to gain a sh*t load of ring seal, ring lifespan, piston wear, etc."

"look where that CP piston was wearing total failure of piston design. it needs to be wearing about 1/4" up off the bottom of the lower skirt edge. NOT trying to stabilize just below the ring package... omg fail. actually, lol, you can see the wear pattern going right into the oil control ring lans. lol."

"That super tech piston is WAY better everything about it's design is better
and it's got like 2x the top ring lan strength it's going to cool better too."

Did you weight the pistons? What's the weight difference between the CP and SuperTech's? It'd be nice to know since they are both dome'd for 12.5:1 CR. It looks like the SuperTech's would be a little heavier.

On the underside of the piston, it's again clear why CP costs more. It's got much nicer machining on the underside of the piston. Dual wrist pin oiling holes are present on the CP piston. The supertech piston does have a thicker skirt. The wrist pin is also shorter on the supertech piston. The CP piston will accommodate a much wider rod, although that doesn't matter much if you are using stock width crank journals.
Maybe it's the pictures quality or maybe it's just me. But I can't see how the CP has much nicer machining. Can you explain?

I also measured the expansion at the piston crown. The aftermarket pistons generally expanded a good bit more along their thrust faces at the crown than along the wrist pin axis. The CP pistons were within 0.001" along each axis. the Supertech pistons had an average difference 0.006" between the two axes, with the longer axis being the thrust face of the piston. The stock pistons were slightly oval as well having a difference of 0.002" between the two axes, with the longer axis being the thrust face of the piston.

What I find interesting is that although the CP pistons were more round at the crown than the stock pistons, the stock pistons had much more even skirt wear. This highlights two factors that set apart truly great pistons from the rest.

1. having a truly round shape at temperature
2. having a skirt profile that matches the bore at temperature
How many miles were on the stock piston? Do you have any photos of it?

Now, I'm not sure how the Supertech pistons will stack up, but it would seem that the CP pistons left a little to be desired in the piston skirt profile. Makes you wonder why some companies charge $1600+ for a set of four pistons and what kind of intrinsic value is engineered into the product.
After those photos you said the CP left very little to be desired... don't you mean a lot? If you feel the CP design is excellent, do you think the piston to wall was simply too great at .0036"? What was CP's recommendation originally?

I'm also hoping you have received the Hytech header by now and will give us an improved dyno graph. How is the SuperTech's holding up thus far? I figure you got a good 10-15k miles on it now?
Old 10-18-2010, 10:07 AM
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Default Re: My K20 rebuild

Chunky- I've got the same dial more gauge as well as their mics but in the .0001 variants. Never done me wrong. My mics are dead nuts. And I would never use the dial bore gauge for overall measurements but its fine for zeroing on your mic and subsequently getting your clearances. I would assume you agree. And as others have said great thread.


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