Pretty thin, I wanna say 1/8th inch but it could be a fraction or two thicker. Allot of the weight was just in the mounting screws too. Next time I do lexan I'm gonna do the Velcro to attach it like Dana did on his YouTube channel. And yes 6.5lbs for just the frame that holds the glass. It felt like a feather. I also cut the under side out of it.

Also been thinking allot about building a custom intake manifold. I tuned a h22 5th gen prelude that had some really shitty looking twin 70mm throttle bodies on it to a plate that was welded up to the stock manifold with a square shaped plenum and surprisingly it was very easy to tune and the car felt really strong for the setup and weight of the car. So researching a little I found this guys car from Portland Oregon that I actually remember seeing at PIR when I was just getting into hondas. He built a few of his own intake manifold setups and said that the car made 229 with a skunk2 mani and bbk 70mm tb, 332 with the skunk2 mani cut in half and twin 70mm tbs and 252whp with the large plenum dual throttle body setup, jeff from rrev said they data logged about a half lb of boost in 3rd and 4th as well. Pretty cool ****.

I already have 404s that are going in this motor. I'll be scaling it down a little and probably shooting for a 3-3.5L plenum and make adjustments if needed from there.

Made small pieces of lexan to replace the trim pieces back here. I think it adds a nice touch.




Painted the back side satin black before peeling the cover off the rest.

Painted the shell Satin black yesterday. Still need to finish cutting some stuff under the wiper cowl and paint the front half of the interior.

Started on doing the lexan. It's held on with heavy duty Velcro from Home Depot. Inside edges sprayed satin black to match. Really happy how this quarter panel glass turned out.

Once I cut the pieces to fit I held them up and marked the inside edges with a sharpie. Then I traced the sharpie with an exacto knife and peeled the outside edge then painted them black. It was really nice how easy it was and how clean it turned out. I'm gonna be swapping the lexan hatch from my awd crx onto this one and redoing the clean hatch I have with a little thicker lexan for my awd car using the same Velcro and painted edges.

it feels super solid and defintely takes a good amount of effort to pull the windows off. This car is pretty much track only so not really worried about safety in terms of it getting in an accident. Plus it's cool to be able to just remove the glass when needed for touching up paint or if I do a cage in it down the road.

The car came from a local crx enthusiast named
jack, he's a little bit older guy who dailys a super clean dohc zc crx si and his wife drives an also super clean b16 crx si. All I know is he had the car but ended up parting it then giving the shell to moe because the core support had been replaced and wasn't perfect, everything lined up well on it just some of the welds weren't perfect and they had resprayed just part of the bay and it kind of looked crappy, he's a pretty picky guy, lucky me I ended up with a straight, clean shell that was a great start for a fun project. Hoping the machine shop will have my block done this week. They have been slacking big time but it seems that's how every machine shop is around here. Also picked up a freebie parts s1 trans from a local Honda guy in Albany. It has a blown 3rd gear and some other stuff wrong with it but it's externally complete as my trans was missing some stupid stuff like the clutch throw out lever thing and the part that attaches it to the throw out bearing and in sure a few other small misc parts.

Got my block back from the machine shops. It was sized to the 84.5mm pistons for .002\" p2w clearance and decked because there was some rough spots on it.


Dropped the crank in and checked all main bearings. Mains were in order from 1 to 5: 1, .0015\", 2 .0018", 3 .0016", 4 .0016" and 5 .0016".

After cleaning off the plasti gauge I found this small burr protruding from the bearing. I cleaned everything before putting it together so I think the scissors I used has some grit on them that stuck to the plasti gauge when I cut it. Talked to a buddy and he told me to use a razor blade to knock the high spot down and as long as it was smooth to the touch it should be fine. I deburred it and retorqued it and pulled #4 cap back off to double checked and it all looked fine. The motor spins smooth as butter with the mains torqued.

Compression should be between 12.2 and about 12.4 to 1, if the power isn't enough I will one ply the hg and see what that does. I may do a big shot of nitrous on it down the road so I'll most likely keep the compression reasonable at that. I'm hoping the car will be around 1500lbs all said and done so high 11s should be achievable on 200whp or close to that. I don't think dd does non vtec cams but if he did I'd be super happy to do some testing on them 😎. I've also toyed with the idea of sending the 404s out to delta to get reground bigger. I'm really excited about this build. I'm happy I'm staying non vtec because you really gotta work to find the power in the setup. I've always really enjoyed non vtec b series all motor setups. There's just something about a big lopey idle that turns me on.


Been thinking allot about header design in terms of what would work and not work. I currently have a small tube hytech rep I got for free from ef parts, I have been really wanting the smsp knock off to test as well and might try to pick up a local real bisi custom header also but to be honest I've never been a bisi fan.
Measured out the small tube tri-y I have laying around for anyone who's interested. The stepped primary's go from 1.5" to 1.625" to 1.75". Overall primary length is about 28" depending on the runner.

Ive also been playing around with a primary length header calculator to see what engine changes and rpm changes do to calculated ideal runner lengths. It seems that more lobe separation angle wants longer runners and a smaller collector vs shorter for less lsa. Shorter runners generally tend to shift the powerband up higher. From the measurements the small tube tri-y should actually be a pretty solid match for this engine. I'd like to experiment with it and maybe shorten up the secondary runners on it to see what that would do with the power band.



Im interested if anyone has feedback to what works and what doesn't work for non vtec heads. I'm hoping I can make power up to 8500 on this engine with the compression, cams, portwork and custom intake manifold.

Finished painting the interior today and worked on getting my kirkey seat bolted up. I need to make spacers for the back of it and fabricate a harness bar also.

Gapped the rings today, all the top rings came in at .016" and the bottom rings varried between .016-.022 so I gapped them at .020" and left one slightly larger. All the oil control rings were just about .025" so they were left that way. Tomorrow I'm getting the pistons pressed onto the stock rods and installing them then checking rod bearing clearances. Feels like this project is finally getting somewhere. I still need to source a ek engine harness to run and I have to find a few small things for the short block like the t belt washers and a key way for the crank pulley.

Checked valve to valve clearance today as well as piston to valve. V2v ended up with about .070" with the cams dialed all the way towards each other, intake advance and exhaust fully retarded. This is with crower 62404-2 cams and stock sized valves 31mm/28mm exhaust. I was very pleased to find out I have a full range of cam gear adjustments that clear valve to valve as well as valve to piston so I will be having some fun tuning the cam gears once this is up and running. Piston to valve ended up very safe at even the worst adjustments in terms of piston to valve. Exhaust valve to piston was .105" at fully retarded and intake was .085" at full advance. Gonna be fun experimenting with valve overlap on the dyno to see what it does in terms of power. I will also be trying a few different intake manifold setups with the first being the ported b16 with 70mm Omni throttle body. I will also be building a dual throttle body hood exit intake manifold with a custom 3.5l plenum.


Had to redo the exhaust v2p clearance but ended up at .105\" p2v with exhaust cam at full retard.

Play doh Clayed.

About .085\" p2v clearance for the intake valves at full advance on the intake cam.

Found a primary header length calculator based off some engine and cam specifications and target peak power out put.


Trimmed up the stock b20 crank pulley to rid the power steering part of the pulley. I'm happy with how it came out.

Dropped the motor in tonight. Not very happy with how the mounts sit, both side mounts look cockeyed and not right. The engine also seems to be leaning forward more then I'd like for some reason. Also got most of my materials today for building the header. I'm using stepped primary's with a goal of 28\" primary's ranging from 1.5-1.625-1.75" all tubes will fit very snugly inside each other once fitted which will make getting the runners welded up much easier since I don't have my tig welder setup at my home.

Do you have the correct post mount on the driver’s side?