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Intake manifold is finally finished. Painted it and the throttle bodies with wrinkle black paint. Overall finish looks really nice. I was able to keep the iacv in the stock location by adding a small bracket to the intake plenum. Really excited to see how it preforms.
Not first engine but first shortlblock that I've built by myself. Idk why but I've always been scared to touch them thinking oh how many ways to fail. Honestly it was much easier then I had expected and pretty relaxing. Putting the motor together for my white crx here soon too.
Finally got the hood fitted for the intake system. Also been playing around with tuning it a little just at idle since the breaks aren't bled yet. I ended up running a set of 2200cc cng injectors since I found them for really cheap online and wanted to test them to see if I could recommend them to my higher hp customers. I had to play around with the dead times a little to get them to work right but at 14v they like .91ms. Also had a mishap with the 100amp circuit breaker, I think it got overloaded and just **** out on me because I can't reset it now that it popped. Ordered a 300amp one for the car to replace it. Also got my new rear trailing arms installed with filled in rta bushings and they feel nice and solid all mounted up. I will be throwing a set of vms black revolver wheels on it I have from my awd crx that's running 16" whistlers now with a much larger tire to help with the super short crv final drive of 4.652. Also note the insight in the back ground. New daily. The Escalade gas milage was killing me because my tuning business has been a little slow due to the holidays.
Got both dx front knuckles installed today and both axles put in. If anyone is interested the da knuckles weigh 39.2lbs per side with caliper and rotor and the dx knuckles come in at an even 33lbs each. Got the breaks bled also, they feel a little on the squishy side still so I may rebleed them with the help of a friend in the next few days but I will see how they feel tomorrow and possibly take it for a quick spin around the block.
I need to fix a few small things as it sits right now. The thermostat housing has a slow drip from the bottom, I don't think I got the gasket to sit in there right the first time. Also my d series alternator is mis-aligned and chewing up the alt belt so I might just swap a b series one on it if I can find one easy. The breaks were the big thing I've been worried about so it feels good that the pedal has pressure now.
Been slacking a little bit due to the holidays but the car is about ready to take it to tune. Just welded up the mounts for the tow bar today, should be much easier to slid in two pins and tow it to the track vs using my tow dolly. Had to fix a few vacuum leaks from me overlooking the throttle body gaskets not covering the fitv ports. I might go scale the car tonight to see what it weighs. These wheels are 33lbs a piece vs the ugly konigs that were on it were 24lbs a piece. I have a Insight 14x4" spare tire and know where I can get another, I would just need a set of dot tires for them, probably try to find some 165/65/14s for them.
I also plan to build a cowl around the intake scoops on the hood and a flat drag wing on the back.
My buddy has some Toyota trd wheels that are 13x8, I have a pair of 22x8x13" slicks for them. I would like to run Insight spare wheels14x4 on the rear with dot tires and probably wheel spacers to make them look right.
Got my insight spares mostly stripped of paint. Just gotta fine some 165/65/14 tires for them and get some bolt on wheel spacers to make them sit right.
It's a 91ls trans, we will see what I shift at after I can see what it makes power to but probably somewhere around 8k.
Last edited by K7-1Ktrevor; 12-28-2018 at 08:53 PM.
Got a dyno apt scheduled for this Friday. Wish I had plates/ insurance on this car so I could dial it in on the street first but oh well. Drove it around the block and it feels pretty snappy. Excited to see if it makes decent numbers or is a disappointment lol.
Good luck and I hope it makes the numbers you want.
Usually you want the closes gear separation coupled with a final drive that will place you in the ball park MPH at the traps that you estimate the car we be in. This MPH estimation isn't known until you have a final weight w/ driver and dyno numbers. Also you want the largest diameter tire that will not bog the car off the line. 22" slick isn't a bad starting point for this setup. However, 23" may be the better option (Depending on how the dyno numbers look =< 170whp and where the power falls off).However just guessing you are gonna be somewhere between 1550-1650 with driver and 170-200whp and power falling off around 7600, that LS gearing isn't going to help you much. You need b16 gearing, above 8k shift point (If it's not completely gutless there) and 23" slick to trap 87-90mph in the 1/8th which is what I think you should shoot for as far as trap speed.
It's all theory but just my 2 cents. It's not going to hurt to test the LS trans but I wouldn't set the shift point above 7500 unless you want to come through the traps below the power curve.
I will be running it in the 1/4 mile not the 1/8th. From my calculations with a rev limiter of 8k I should go through the traps (about 112mph if power and weight estimations are correct) in 4th at about 7500 rpm which should be fairly close to peak torque if everything works out right. I'll be allot more informed on what it will need once i have a dyno print out.
also the tranny I got was in pieces for $80 and the slicks were a deal from a buddy for $100 and retuning his car. I was originally looking for a b16 trans but I think the ls will do just fine. My 88 crx with the stock low comp b20/ 403's ran a 90-91 ls trans and did 12.7 at 107.
You can't beat a deal like that. Yes, keeping the rev's lower (7500) will bring the trap speed down in 4th, no matter if you are running the 1/4 mile or 1/8th mile (3rd gear) . However, in this scenario, the engine will be spending most of it's time under 7000 and that is not where it's going to make the most power.
Well if the tranny needs to be changed down the road I will do that. As of right now shifting from rev limit to second gear should land me at about 5300, third gear should land at about 5600 and 4th will end up about 6300 or so give or take. I expect this motor to have a large torque curve and I don't think the trans will be much of an issue. With my previous ls motors I've always ran the same times with different Tranny's from a hydro ls to hydro gsr and cable ls. The car felt better with the gsr trans but the 1/4 mile passes were identical.
and I didn't say anything about keeping the revs down I said that's the rpm it would be going through the traps at 4th gear at.
Dyno'd my all motor car today, as expected it was one issue after another, had allot of ignition break up, fixed that, then ran out of gas, then finally started to get the numbers moving up and the first full pull at about 7500 rpms it blew the oil pressure gauge line out of the fitting so I had to call it quits. Didn't get to play with cam gear timing or intake length either which was a bummer. Oh welll **** happens, this is why I like to dial cars in on the street first. Made 175/135tq, I know it has allot of room for that to improve since it wasn't running 100% at all yet. The cool thing was I data logged each pass and from 3-4K there is about .4lbs of positive pressure reading on the map sensor. Even with that weak power this car should still go fairly deep 12's on that. the smooth graph is from a second gear pull. The dyno was having issues with the rpm pickup as well, pretty common they seem to have old junky stuff hooked up to their dyno.
Just premium pump gas. The timing was around 22 degrees. I didn't get to even touch timing but I know just a few degrees will make a huge difference. I was happy with 175 for how crappy it was running. It has allot more left in it for sure.
11-30-2018, 03:20 PM
re: K7-1trevor's Build: Warning! Lightweight big bore CRX Non-VTEC content inside
