Yep, same post mount as my awd car. I'm pretty sure the mounts are just booty.

What brand mounts?

Cheap eBay ones. I wouldn't expect any more out of them lol.

Spent all day trying to build a custom header for this motor. I got pretty much no where but frustrated lol. The only runner I'm happy with is cyl 4, 1,2&3 are all too short and I don't have enough material to make it work right now. Unfortunately when I was ordering u bends I ordered two 1.5" which have a inner diameter of 1.37" which is way to small for my goals. I'm kind of wishing I would have just spent the money on a smsp rep try-y header. I'm already out more cash in just the materials so far 😕

Got some work done on my intake manifold the last few days. I have a stock set of 56mm throttle bodies as well as a pair of 70mm throttle bodies I'm goning to be testing on this motor. Still need to port the runners some and make the filler pieces to complete it. Pretty excited for this setup.

Yeah just one map sensor and one tps. The throttle bodies will be linked together probably using dual carb linkage or something along those lines.

Got some welding done on the fuel cell and intake manifold today. Still need to make the top piece for the fuel cell as well as build a baffle for the inside. Also have to cut some end caps for the intake manifold so that can be welded up and be complete ready for some nice wrinkle black paint once it's done.

Made filler pieces and end caps for the intake manifold plenum today. Also got the top piece for the fuel cell cut up and ready to weld. Just need to add fittings for fuel feed and return now to it and have it welded up. Really stoked about this intake manifold. I plan on also cutting a few pieces of 3" to play around with intake tube length on the dyno to see if there's a noticeable difference. Also found that the fitv block off plate bolts up as a nice little tps cover for the second throttle body.

Got this bad boy in the mail today. Cut the 2.5" 2 bolt flange off to weld a v band on it. Was surprised at how big the primary's are they are 1"3/4 to what looks like slightly bigger then 1"7/8. Overall it looks like a well built header and tucks up nice to the oil pan.

The two big advantages this will have over the ported b16 intake manifold I had before is it has just about 2 liters of plenum volume, vs barley over 1 liter for the b16 (ended up a little smaller then I was shooting for) and it will have a very direct air path for all cylinders. I got the chance to tune a 5th gen h22 prelude with dual 70mm throttle bodies on it and was blown away by how strong the car felt especially since the weight of it. As far as comparing this manifold to itbs, I would say for one this will be much easier to tune as well as retain a functional plenum to help with natural supercharging, itbs generally have great port velocity but they loose the effect that the plenum has which I think in a properly designed engine is very important for making power. I probably won't do a back to back test since there's more then just one variable but it would be interesting to see an overlay. Maybe in a few years when I can buy my house out in the country and put a dyno in on my own property.

I'm gonna build lexan covers for them that will sit pretty much how the factory headlights would. They will have a small lightweight aluminum frame and bolt up to the core support. It's on my to do list lol.

got most of the wiring done today. Also picked up a manual choke kit for the exhaust valve. Basically I'm just gonna have a 75mm Ford Mustang throttle body on the end that I can close most of the way for idle or part way if I wanna drive it around town and not be too obnoxious. It's on a 10" pipe that's 2.5" tapering to 3" I was looking up allot of videos on collector length when I designed it and for most engines people were saying 13" is a good starting point. On one of the videos with a big cubic inch chevy v8 they tested different collector lengths and not having any resulted in a ton of mid range power lost and even about 30 peak hp. They said the old hot rod trick is to rattle can a line on the tuning and where it goes from changing color to looking like normal paint is where you cut it off. Pretty cool how people figured out this **** a long time ago with little tricks like that.

Progress has been a little slow this past week but I got the intake manifold about 95% of the way done, just have to add a small bracket for one bolt hole on the iacv and build a throttle cable bracket. My buddy tony tig welded on a 2.5" v band on the end of the header so I can add my megaphone/ throttle body exhaust cut out on it. Fuel cell is almost finished just needs one small hole welded up on the bottom. slow and steady. No sense in rushing things since the track won't be open till about march anyways.

Wiring is done besides tail lights and blinkers. Ended up using a 99 civic engine harness and only had to run about 4 wires for power, 1 for the starter and one power ground. Need to build the other headlight cutout and figure out where exactly I want to cut the hood to fit the intake manifold/ v stacks. Also need to tackle the brakes, the rear is missing both wheel cylinders and most of the drum brake parts. The front is missing the proportioning valve and two lines that go to the master cylinder. Ef parts should have everything I need to get that up and going.

Not yet. I will as soon as it's on the road.

I would be happy with that. I did my calculations at 1500 and hoping for anything over 200whp although it might take some changes to get there but I won't know till I tune it.

Got the brake lines and proportioning valve installed today as well as picked up a complete pair of drum trailing arms. Going to fill the trailing arm bushings solid and try to trim some weight off the arms themselves. Also picked up allot of small little things I needed to finish various projects on the car. Just need the fuel cell to get finished and I'll be able to fire it up pretty soon. Have to finish a few quick things on the engine harness, extend tps wires, change from obd2 to obd1 alternator plug and it will be ready to go.

Nice build so far man. People sleep on the non v setup but there are several out here flying. La Sata runs 10.20s all motor so that tells you enough of the potential. In for results!

Thanks dude. I've always loved all motor b20's and ls motors. I don't know why, about 9 years ago I had my first ls swapped eg and it came with a really nicely painted valve cover so I was like **** it I'm gonna build it how it is instead of doing the same old ls vtec that everyone was doing. My buddies thought I was crazy when I dropped $500 on a ported ls head with springs and retainers and some gude regrind cams but I really loved that motor. Ended up putting it on a 80 wet shot of nitrous and beat allot of cars that I shouldn't have beat.


So i so I picked up a pair of crx drum trailing arms for $30 since my drums were incomplete, pretty much missing everything inside them and rather then sourcing all the parts to put them back together this seemed easiest. My trailing arm bushings were pretty shot as were the ones that I just bought so I did an old trick I used to do on motor mounts. I filled the trailing arm bushings with pl construction adhesive (polyurethane) it is super cheap at Home Depot and dries to about 95a durometer. It's supposed to be about as hard as a dress shoe sole. I've used it allot in eg motor mounts because I was a cheap bastard, and well it works so why spend $300 for a set of mounts if I can spend $7 to do all 3. Once it cures for about a week I'll paint it satin black along with the rest of the trailing arm.

Also so I got the exhaust cutout hooked up using a manual choke cable as well as got the throttle linkage and throttle cable bracket done. I really love how the gas pedal feels now. It's nice and firm but not too hard. It definitely doesn't feel like most honda throttle cables since its actuating two throttle bodies. I may later hookup the exhaust cutout to the throttle bodies.

Got the headlight covers built today. The brackets I made tie in the corner lights as well so everything is nice and sturdy. Just some scrap pieces of lexan and some 11ga aluminum scraps for the brackets.