Honderachinaldo

That's what's up, I can throttle steer my civic a bit w that 24mm rear. If I remember the VW Rabbit guys had the back essentially locked together and they would corner on 3 wheels like a shifter kart

BoostHatchFreak

when you changed oil did you only do 4 quarts? also did you happen to check the oil scraper rings when you built engine had a set that where butted. never had that happen before so I got to relaxed and stopped checking. also are you sure you don't have a bad spraying injector? causing a cylinder to load up with fuel and then taking all the oil off the cylinder walls cause the smoke??

K7-1Ktrevor

I just put 4 quarts in on the second oil change. The oil spacer rings were the only ones that really needed files to fit. The top and bottom rings were 15 and 18 perspectively. It could be injectors. Pulled the plugs the first two cylinders looked very dark and the other two looked about right besides some wetness from oil on them. I might have the injectors tested down in Albany.

This car will 3 wheel with 165/65/14 re92 fuel economy tires on it lol.

Honderachinaldo

I overlapped the spacer/spring between oil rings once and car smoked like a chimney despite running well. I no longer find a need to actually check ring gap on a D anymore though, even 300k CRX motors just need hone and rering assuming ring lands in pistons are intact.

Honderachinaldo

Torsion nice, it takes a lot to make most fwd cars want to turn.

K7-1Ktrevor

I just wanted to be thorough with the engine because I was building it for fun. Pistons are all weight matched to .01 gram. Rings are gapped identically. I think I overlooked the guides on the head honestly. I wanna try some highmilage oil and see if that helps on the next change. On the upside it doesn't leak a drop of anything which feels good

AllMtrRex

Glad you got it running. Possibly the only D series insight anywhere?

Usually valve guide oil leakage burns off after initial startup. Need to get someone behind you and verify the smoking increases with a significant decel or not, letting the engine do the braking. If there is sealing issue it will show here. It's very possible the engine is still in the break in period, but the 2 dark cylinders and 2 normal burning cylinders has me thinking something else is going on.

BoostHatchFreak

nice on the handling, how did you clock the oil rings ? ya sounds like you mite have some injector issues, maybe double check the valve lash, make sure those plug wires are good,

K7-1Ktrevor

Rings are in a x pattern about 1, 11, 7 and 5 o clock position. Most of the smoke is at wide open to be honest. Also last night I messed with the rear t bracket and tilted the motor up using it which aligned the axles much better, took it for a test drive and all the harsh axle vibrations were gone. I need to shorten the shift linkage and modify the exhaust a little bit so it fits how it used to but it was a really easy solution for the axle issue.

Also I was able to put my wideband in the header which has a spot on the secondary pipe right off cylinders 1 and 2 and it read just about the same as it did when it was in after the collector besides wot at the very top end was a bit richer like 12.2-12.4. Definitely not enough to make the plugs filthy black. Gonna throw a new set of plugs in today and sand the ground strap so I can get some decent timing readings off them.


as far as I know this is the only d series insight I've seen. I've found one that was b16 swapped and a ton of k series ones.

BoostHatchFreak

so you have the oil rings only. wave ring gap at 12, top oil ring at 4 and second ring at 7. so in other words there around 180degrees out from one another?

K7-1Ktrevor

At this point I honestly don't remember if they are 180 out or 90 degrees apart. I put the bottom end together about almost 4 months ago. The spark plugs look like mostly 1 and 2 are burning oil. I'm not gonna sweat it for the time being and I'll tear it down when I'm ready to. The car is a blast, I got to play with a e60 m5 through some corners today. When he pulled up next to me at the light he gave me the head nod lol.

BoostHatchFreak

ya if its not smoking out the block let it ride and see if it just needing more break in or not. glad you are enjoying your project and its working out as you wanted it.

K7-1Ktrevor

That's the plan. Just bought a bore scope from harbor freight, gonna check through the injector holes and see if I can see oil in the ports or not and also check what the pistons look like today. I'm gonna get the federal tires mounted here shortly also

K7-1Ktrevor

Piston 2 appears to have some damage and looks like it has made contact with the head (Edit** was just oil on top of the piston) I have a spare y8 bottom end that I will probably throw in the car while I fix the d17 motor and go through it to see what's going on with it exactly. When I pull it out I'm gonna modify the mounts to move the engine back about an inch or so. Seems like there's always at least a few hiccups with any build, it's frustrating because I hate doing things twice but it is what it is and really shouldn't be a whole lot of work in the big scheme of things.

On a positive note there's a pretty steep hill here in town that I would have to be in 2nd at high rpm just to go up with the inline 3 and I can pull up it just fine in 3rd now at about 10% throttle like it's nothing. The car feels great dispite burning oil and shaking from the axles lol.

AllMtrRex

Only 1 piston making contact? May have ingested something.

BoostHatchFreak

sorry to hear about the motor problems. that is interesting to have only one hit. will be interesting to see what the reason is. maybe a rod bolt stretched or something weird since its only one cylinder.

K7-1Ktrevor

Not sure what’s going on and I won’t know till I take it back apart. It sucks but that’s definitely a part of building cars. Always trial and error.

on the up side I just purchased a new tuning software called bmtune and I’m super stoked about it. It has the ability to burn on chips, you can import tune files from other softwares like Crome, Neptune, ectune and it has a ton of super cool features like rolling anti lag, fuel and ignition rev limiter, variable launch control, fan control, cel reset using the brake switch and allot of other really cool stuff it excited to play with. I’ll keep this thread updated with how it goes. Also I started tearing down my d15b6 I picked up for cheap and I’m gonna throw some p29’s in it and have it milled probably 30 or 40 thousandths. Should be 11 to 1 comp and rev happy. I have also been thinking about building my Cx trans with ex gearing but keeping the 3.25 final drive. I need to do some calculations first and talk to my buddy who does allot of Tranny work but I think it could be fun.

Honderachinaldo

The 4.25 final in my B000 tranny still didn't give the D the leverage it needed but that was a d15 crank in a 2260lb car. Really have to set these little bastards up to wind to get them to move.

K7-1Ktrevor

I must be spoiled with my 94.4mm stroke. Just wish it didn’t smoke so bad lol.

K7-1Ktrevor

Tore down my spare d15, ended up with a spun rod bearing and some really hammered main bearings. One rod was discolored from the head as well as the rod journal on the crank. Gonna swap in my y8 bottom end this weekend most likely and redo the mounts for now. Should still make good power and be be able to carry a the torque curve higher in the revs.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Nothing is fun with a 3.25 FD unless it's in a Mini.

AllMtrRex

Sucks to hear man. What do you think happened?

K7-1Ktrevor

The d15 was just a junk motor I picked up for $25 to potentially build. I did rob the oil cooler off of it which is pretty cool i guess.

AllMtrRex

10-4. When I first read your comment, I thought you tore down the d16 stroker and it was spun bearings, etc.

K7-1Ktrevor

No this motor is running great just burning oil. I’m pretty happy with it. I’m gonna throw the y8 in it for the time being so I can figure out what’s going on with this stroker motor as to why it’s burning oil so bad.