Honda All-Motor - Natural Aspiration Basics & Overview
02-24-2017, 11:08 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Honda All-Motor - Natural Aspiration Basics & Overview
Hey, just thought id post this. Lookin to add to it and hopefuly make a sticky
N/A or Naturally Aspirated engines are engines that rely only on atmospheric air pressure to supply the engine and combustion process. This means non-turbocharged or supercharged engines. Extra torque and horsepower means fun, rewarding cars that are something to be proud of whether you build your own or have a company it for you. To make more power while remaining to be naturally aspirated, it is more rewarding in the sense that there is more of a challenge when compared to forced induction. The majority of Honda and Acura engines are n/a and keeping to that is great. When trying to make more power out of a Honda or Acura engine without forced induction, there are some fairly basic things to understand. The theory however of engine performance can be very complicated and long so I am just going to try and summarize engine theory and n/a performance.
-Budget
It is said that between forced induction and natural aspiration that natural aspiration will cost you more money in the end. Be prepared to spend more money per hp than forced induction. Typically, the performance parts that are required for n/a power making cost more, for example an intake manifold which would be beneficial to a forced induction setup as well but is a much more crucial component to have when building an n/a engine can cost $300-800 for an aftermarket component. Of course making components from scratch will save you $ here but not everybody can successfully design and build their own components.
-Power and Engine Characteristics
A naturally aspirated engine tends to have a more responsive throttle, earlier torque delivery and a more "linear" power curve. A forced induction engine has a lesser throttle response and either tends to lack in low rpm power ("lag") due to a restriction of exhaust gas flow from the turbocharger or from the load placed on the crankshaft by a supercharger and its drive belt. These forced induction restrictions are minimal however.
-The Pursuit of N/A Performance:
Engines need Air, Compression, Ignition and Fuel
Atmospheric air pressure is your friend, it pushes on everything around you including the throttle plate in your throttle body and is approximately 14.7psi@ sea level. This varies with temperature and elevation. Colder air has more oxygen content per volume and so lower air intake temps are ideal for power making. You want to get as much air as physically possible into the combustion chambers and as quickly as possible.
VE or Volumetric Efficiency is the actual amount of air ingested by your engine into its cylinders as compared to the theoretical volume it could ingest (total displacement) and is expressed as a percentage. The higher the better. Ex. an H22 engine has a total displacement of 2156cc (131.6cu.in.). If it ingests that total volume throughout its cycles, than it is operating at 100% VE. 100% VE is rare. I've actually read the H22 has a peak VE of nearly 100% (I've also read it is as high as 102%).
Things to consider:
-Displacement
The displacement or “swept cylinder volume” of all the combustion chambers in the engine is plays a very big role in making n/a power. It makes sense, the larger the displacement, the more power created due to the increased amount of air and fuel being ignited. This depends on the cylinder bore or diameter, stroke length (rod length, crank stroke), cylinder head design (larger dome height and less material will increase displacement and decrease compression ratio), piston head design (less head material displaces less and will increase total engine displacement but will reduce compression ratio).
-Compression Ratio
The compression of the intake air charge and fuel mixture is crucial to complete and efficient combustion. More compression means more power but there are limiting factors and physics. Too much compression means a high likelihood for pre-ignition or detonation, meaning the combustion event occurs too early in the engines cycle, applying excessive combustion energy to components. This cracks pistons, bends rods, cracks heads, break sparks plugs. The compression ratio is the ratio between the volume in the combustion chamber when the piston is at TDC (Top of its stroke) and BTD (Bottom of the stroke). In n/a builds, you’re going to want to build your engine using a stroke or piston design that creates a high compression ratio. This means a more responsive engine and easy power.
-Ignition
The timing of the ignition is important as well as the quality of the ignition. The air and fuel charge takes awhile to ignite and release its power creating gas pressures. It does not instantly respond or completely ignite relative to the actual spark from the plug. Because of this, you want your ignition event to occur right near the end of the compression stroke. To most effectively make power you want your ignition event to occur as soon as possible (advanced) but not too soon. Timing that is too advanced can lead to detonation or pre-ignition. To be most efficient there are certain engine situations that will need certain ignition timing changes, for example, as engine RPM increases timing must be further advanced. As engine load increases, ignition timing must be less advanced. An upgraded ignition system will allow for a stronger spark allowing for more efficient and complete combustion resulting in more power and less emissions.
· COP (Coil-On-Plug) Coils
· External Coil Upgrades
· Spark Plug Wires
· Digital Ignition Controllers
· Spark Plugs
-Air/Fuel Ratio
There is an ideal mixture between the amount of air and the amount of fuel being used in the combustion process. The study of air and fuel or gas ratios is referred to a stoichiometry. The ideal or stoichiometric AFR is 14:7:1 meaning 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. In n/a engines the maximum power producing AFR is typically between 12:1 and 13:1. Leaner AFRs will create more power but may ignite too soon in the engines cycle, creating pre-ignition or detonation. Along with the proper ratio it is also important that the fuel and air mixture is well mixed. This means the fuel must be atomized well and mixed thoroughly with the intake air.
-Intake Manifolds/Throttle Bodies/Intake Systems
Were looking for a higher volume of air flow and an airflow that behaves with certain characteristics such as different velocities at certain rpms, throttle positions and loads. Different intake manifold air runner lengths and runner diameters on intake manifolds provide different power characteristics due to air pressure variation including venturi designs and designs utilizing air turbulence which both increase air intake velocity and volume but also aid in the mixing of the air and fuel charge which is important for complete and efficient combustion as well as power production.
-Fuel Pumps/Injectors/Rails/Gauges/Filters:
Were looking for an increase in fuel flow but to meet the demand of our power production only. A proper air to fuel ratio must be maintained throughout so it is important to understand that more fuel can only be added when required.
-Pistons
Aftermarket forged aluminum pistons meets the extra needs of higher power engines due to increased strength and custom orders or certain aftermarket designs that will allow for changes in compression ratio (Piston upgrades are the most cost effective way to change your compression ratio, especially when keeping a stock rod length or crank.)
-Exhaust
Exhaust system upgrades focus on flow volume and velocity utilizing changes in header tube and collector length/design, diameter of tubing, diameter of cat-back systems, muffler designs, backpressure etc. When you can, running a header open to atmosphere is ideal for power gains from n/a configurations but will result in a very loud engine and one that will not pass smog or emissions testing.
· High Flow Catalytic Converters or
· Deletion of Cat (Will not Pass SMOG or emissions testing)
· Cat-Back Systems
· Mufflers
· Headers
-Camshafts and Cam Gears
A camshaft upgrade will include a cam that has larger valve lift and duration specs meaning your valves will open further, and for a longer period of time, increasing flow. It will also shift the timing of the valve opening and closing so that certain valves open and close sooner and later as well as changing the “overlapping” of valve operation events, to a more power creating ideal. The intake air/fuel and exhaust gases are pumped at times that best utilize air pressure, velocity and the flow characteristics of your engine. At the cost of idle quality and slow speed drivability, aftermarket cams will produce more power. The timing of the camshaft(s) relative to the crankshaft, can also be adjusted with aftermarket adjustable cam gears. These gears will mount to the driven end of the camshaft and have bolts on their face that will lock the gear in place and when loosened, allow for the timing of the camshaft to be adjusted. This is effectively changing your valve timing events. Usually a camshaft is also designed to produce power in a specific “power curve or band” and at a specific rpm range. You most likely won’t be forging your own camshaft at home and will buy an aftermarket cam or cams. These companies have done the work for you, you just need to choose one and they are usually broken down into performance “stages” ranging from Stage 0 to Stage 5 or more. Some cams are designed for forced induction while other for natural aspiration. In the n/a case, we will want to buy an aggressive cam to make more power but only as aggressive as necessary. A very aggressive cam will have a very “lopey” idle that is rough and if you tend to drive your car in low speed situations (parking lots etc.) then the car will tend to jump unpredictably and be very hard to drive. Also to be noted, typically more aggressive camshafts will require the upgrading of valvetrain components due to the increase in valve lift and duration and the higher likelihood of valvetrain “float”.
-Headwork and Aftermarket Valvetrain
Headwork is the machining of your cylinder head. This will increase the air/fuel mixture and exhaust gas flow. Aftermarket valvetrain components can have the same effect (oversized valves) but mainly allow for a higher achievable rpm or redline and an increase in reliability and durability. Aftermarket valvetrain upgrades will also prevent valve “float”, a condition where the valves stay open when not desired. Some headwork procedures and valvetrain components are:
· Aftermarket Valves (Oversized or OEM size)
· Multi-Angle Valve Job (Machining in multiple angles or stages of the valve ports)
· Port and Polish (Enlarging and polishing of intake and exhaust ports)
· Aftermarket Valve Springs (Sometimes dual springs, higher seat pressure)
· Aftermarket Valve Spring Retainers (Lighter weight, higher strength)
· Aftermarket Valve Guides (Lower coefficient of friction, better wear characteristics)
-Engine Management and Tuning
As you may know, most engines today are computer controlled. There is a computer often referred to as the ecu, pcm or ecm. This computer has electronic hardware and pre-programmed software that uses electronic sensors placed on the engine to actively monitor, adjust and run the engine most effectively. There are tables or “Maps” within these computers that the computer reads and adheres to, these are set by the factory to adjust fuel injector pulse width (fuel injector timing), ignition timing etc. For the most part these tables and maps are designed for drivability and everyday performance, they are not designed with the highest performance capability in mind. Just re-tuning your engine’s computer, even without adding and aftermarket parts can yield a fair amount of power, sometimes as much as 15-20hp. Some of these systems can read and adjust to read values outside the original factory configurations or parameters, for example, the MAP sensor or (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor and IAT or (Intake Air Temp) sensor, can read and understand that there may be more air entering the engine from say, an installed aftermarket air intake system. The computer will not necessarily know that this is the component installed but it can see the increase in air and will adjust ignition timing and fuel flow accordingly, yielding your power increase. For the most part though, adding performance parts such as cams, air intake manifolds, headers etc. will not yield a very large power gain or at least not nearly as much as they could. Essentially when you add parts, you’re going to want to tune or reconfigure the computers data sets (tables/maps) to your specific configuration allowing for the most potential to be achieved. To do this you will need to do one of the following:
-“Reflash” your current factory computer: This will reconfigure your data sets on your computer to pre-tested dyno proven data sets for your specific engine and part/component configuration. This can be done on OBDII vehicles (1996 and newer) through the OBDII port with an aftermarket “flashing” device.
-“Chip” your factory computer: This means removing the computer from the car, and installing a chip “socket” and re-flashable or re-programmable “chip” on your circuit board in place of your factory “chip”. This removable chip can then be connected to a desktop or laptop pc and re-flashed or edited with pre-tested dyno proven data sets for your specific engine and part/component configuration.
-Run a “piggy-back” system: This is a piece of aftermarket hardware that is designed to run along with your factory computer. A piggy back system with either edit sensor data before it reaches the factory computer or will take over certain functions in place of the factory computer.
-Run a “stand-alone” engine management system: A stand –alone system will be an entire new aftermarket engine control computer that is fully programmable via a laptop pc. This is the most expensive option but is also the most effective option allowing you full control over the entire operation of your engine. This means that you can edit and run dyno tests, then re-edit to achieve the most power as well as dial in your desired engine performance characteristics.
-Head Gaskets and Headstuds/Bolts
An aftermarket headgasket is not necessarily required but may be desirable due to the availibilty in the aftermarket for a selection of headgaskets in different thicknesses. This allows for a change in compression ratio, though slight. The main advantage with an aftermarket headgasket is they are typically designed to withstand higher stresses. They are fairly inexpensive and make for a better piece of mind in your build. Headstuds or headbolts are the hardware that clamp the cylinder head to the engine block. These are crucial components, higher rpms and cylinder pressures will tend to stretch factory bolts/studs over time and cause a failure of the headgasket, like an aftermarket headgasket, aftermarket head studs/bolts make for a good upgrade on your build.
-Swapping OEM Honda/Acura Components
There are many components that can be used with different motors. Some cylinder heads can fit on different blocks (adding a vtec head to a non-vtec block) Cams can be swapped from motor to motor. What parts work together is actually fairly well known on this site, do some searching.
N/A or Naturally Aspirated engines are engines that rely only on atmospheric air pressure to supply the engine and combustion process. This means non-turbocharged or supercharged engines. Extra torque and horsepower means fun, rewarding cars that are something to be proud of whether you build your own or have a company it for you. To make more power while remaining to be naturally aspirated, it is more rewarding in the sense that there is more of a challenge when compared to forced induction. The majority of Honda and Acura engines are n/a and keeping to that is great. When trying to make more power out of a Honda or Acura engine without forced induction, there are some fairly basic things to understand. The theory however of engine performance can be very complicated and long so I am just going to try and summarize engine theory and n/a performance.
-Budget
It is said that between forced induction and natural aspiration that natural aspiration will cost you more money in the end. Be prepared to spend more money per hp than forced induction. Typically, the performance parts that are required for n/a power making cost more, for example an intake manifold which would be beneficial to a forced induction setup as well but is a much more crucial component to have when building an n/a engine can cost $300-800 for an aftermarket component. Of course making components from scratch will save you $ here but not everybody can successfully design and build their own components.
-Power and Engine Characteristics
A naturally aspirated engine tends to have a more responsive throttle, earlier torque delivery and a more "linear" power curve. A forced induction engine has a lesser throttle response and either tends to lack in low rpm power ("lag") due to a restriction of exhaust gas flow from the turbocharger or from the load placed on the crankshaft by a supercharger and its drive belt. These forced induction restrictions are minimal however.
-The Pursuit of N/A Performance:
Engines need Air, Compression, Ignition and Fuel
Atmospheric air pressure is your friend, it pushes on everything around you including the throttle plate in your throttle body and is approximately 14.7psi@ sea level. This varies with temperature and elevation. Colder air has more oxygen content per volume and so lower air intake temps are ideal for power making. You want to get as much air as physically possible into the combustion chambers and as quickly as possible.
VE or Volumetric Efficiency is the actual amount of air ingested by your engine into its cylinders as compared to the theoretical volume it could ingest (total displacement) and is expressed as a percentage. The higher the better. Ex. an H22 engine has a total displacement of 2156cc (131.6cu.in.). If it ingests that total volume throughout its cycles, than it is operating at 100% VE. 100% VE is rare. I've actually read the H22 has a peak VE of nearly 100% (I've also read it is as high as 102%).
Things to consider:
-Displacement
The displacement or “swept cylinder volume” of all the combustion chambers in the engine is plays a very big role in making n/a power. It makes sense, the larger the displacement, the more power created due to the increased amount of air and fuel being ignited. This depends on the cylinder bore or diameter, stroke length (rod length, crank stroke), cylinder head design (larger dome height and less material will increase displacement and decrease compression ratio), piston head design (less head material displaces less and will increase total engine displacement but will reduce compression ratio).
-Compression Ratio
The compression of the intake air charge and fuel mixture is crucial to complete and efficient combustion. More compression means more power but there are limiting factors and physics. Too much compression means a high likelihood for pre-ignition or detonation, meaning the combustion event occurs too early in the engines cycle, applying excessive combustion energy to components. This cracks pistons, bends rods, cracks heads, break sparks plugs. The compression ratio is the ratio between the volume in the combustion chamber when the piston is at TDC (Top of its stroke) and BTD (Bottom of the stroke). In n/a builds, you’re going to want to build your engine using a stroke or piston design that creates a high compression ratio. This means a more responsive engine and easy power.
-Ignition
The timing of the ignition is important as well as the quality of the ignition. The air and fuel charge takes awhile to ignite and release its power creating gas pressures. It does not instantly respond or completely ignite relative to the actual spark from the plug. Because of this, you want your ignition event to occur right near the end of the compression stroke. To most effectively make power you want your ignition event to occur as soon as possible (advanced) but not too soon. Timing that is too advanced can lead to detonation or pre-ignition. To be most efficient there are certain engine situations that will need certain ignition timing changes, for example, as engine RPM increases timing must be further advanced. As engine load increases, ignition timing must be less advanced. An upgraded ignition system will allow for a stronger spark allowing for more efficient and complete combustion resulting in more power and less emissions.
· COP (Coil-On-Plug) Coils
· External Coil Upgrades
· Spark Plug Wires
· Digital Ignition Controllers
· Spark Plugs
-Air/Fuel Ratio
There is an ideal mixture between the amount of air and the amount of fuel being used in the combustion process. The study of air and fuel or gas ratios is referred to a stoichiometry. The ideal or stoichiometric AFR is 14:7:1 meaning 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. In n/a engines the maximum power producing AFR is typically between 12:1 and 13:1. Leaner AFRs will create more power but may ignite too soon in the engines cycle, creating pre-ignition or detonation. Along with the proper ratio it is also important that the fuel and air mixture is well mixed. This means the fuel must be atomized well and mixed thoroughly with the intake air.
-Intake Manifolds/Throttle Bodies/Intake Systems
Were looking for a higher volume of air flow and an airflow that behaves with certain characteristics such as different velocities at certain rpms, throttle positions and loads. Different intake manifold air runner lengths and runner diameters on intake manifolds provide different power characteristics due to air pressure variation including venturi designs and designs utilizing air turbulence which both increase air intake velocity and volume but also aid in the mixing of the air and fuel charge which is important for complete and efficient combustion as well as power production.
-Fuel Pumps/Injectors/Rails/Gauges/Filters:
Were looking for an increase in fuel flow but to meet the demand of our power production only. A proper air to fuel ratio must be maintained throughout so it is important to understand that more fuel can only be added when required.
-Pistons
Aftermarket forged aluminum pistons meets the extra needs of higher power engines due to increased strength and custom orders or certain aftermarket designs that will allow for changes in compression ratio (Piston upgrades are the most cost effective way to change your compression ratio, especially when keeping a stock rod length or crank.)
-Exhaust
Exhaust system upgrades focus on flow volume and velocity utilizing changes in header tube and collector length/design, diameter of tubing, diameter of cat-back systems, muffler designs, backpressure etc. When you can, running a header open to atmosphere is ideal for power gains from n/a configurations but will result in a very loud engine and one that will not pass smog or emissions testing.
· High Flow Catalytic Converters or
· Deletion of Cat (Will not Pass SMOG or emissions testing)
· Cat-Back Systems
· Mufflers
· Headers
-Camshafts and Cam Gears
A camshaft upgrade will include a cam that has larger valve lift and duration specs meaning your valves will open further, and for a longer period of time, increasing flow. It will also shift the timing of the valve opening and closing so that certain valves open and close sooner and later as well as changing the “overlapping” of valve operation events, to a more power creating ideal. The intake air/fuel and exhaust gases are pumped at times that best utilize air pressure, velocity and the flow characteristics of your engine. At the cost of idle quality and slow speed drivability, aftermarket cams will produce more power. The timing of the camshaft(s) relative to the crankshaft, can also be adjusted with aftermarket adjustable cam gears. These gears will mount to the driven end of the camshaft and have bolts on their face that will lock the gear in place and when loosened, allow for the timing of the camshaft to be adjusted. This is effectively changing your valve timing events. Usually a camshaft is also designed to produce power in a specific “power curve or band” and at a specific rpm range. You most likely won’t be forging your own camshaft at home and will buy an aftermarket cam or cams. These companies have done the work for you, you just need to choose one and they are usually broken down into performance “stages” ranging from Stage 0 to Stage 5 or more. Some cams are designed for forced induction while other for natural aspiration. In the n/a case, we will want to buy an aggressive cam to make more power but only as aggressive as necessary. A very aggressive cam will have a very “lopey” idle that is rough and if you tend to drive your car in low speed situations (parking lots etc.) then the car will tend to jump unpredictably and be very hard to drive. Also to be noted, typically more aggressive camshafts will require the upgrading of valvetrain components due to the increase in valve lift and duration and the higher likelihood of valvetrain “float”.
-Headwork and Aftermarket Valvetrain
Headwork is the machining of your cylinder head. This will increase the air/fuel mixture and exhaust gas flow. Aftermarket valvetrain components can have the same effect (oversized valves) but mainly allow for a higher achievable rpm or redline and an increase in reliability and durability. Aftermarket valvetrain upgrades will also prevent valve “float”, a condition where the valves stay open when not desired. Some headwork procedures and valvetrain components are:
· Aftermarket Valves (Oversized or OEM size)
· Multi-Angle Valve Job (Machining in multiple angles or stages of the valve ports)
· Port and Polish (Enlarging and polishing of intake and exhaust ports)
· Aftermarket Valve Springs (Sometimes dual springs, higher seat pressure)
· Aftermarket Valve Spring Retainers (Lighter weight, higher strength)
· Aftermarket Valve Guides (Lower coefficient of friction, better wear characteristics)
-Engine Management and Tuning
As you may know, most engines today are computer controlled. There is a computer often referred to as the ecu, pcm or ecm. This computer has electronic hardware and pre-programmed software that uses electronic sensors placed on the engine to actively monitor, adjust and run the engine most effectively. There are tables or “Maps” within these computers that the computer reads and adheres to, these are set by the factory to adjust fuel injector pulse width (fuel injector timing), ignition timing etc. For the most part these tables and maps are designed for drivability and everyday performance, they are not designed with the highest performance capability in mind. Just re-tuning your engine’s computer, even without adding and aftermarket parts can yield a fair amount of power, sometimes as much as 15-20hp. Some of these systems can read and adjust to read values outside the original factory configurations or parameters, for example, the MAP sensor or (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor and IAT or (Intake Air Temp) sensor, can read and understand that there may be more air entering the engine from say, an installed aftermarket air intake system. The computer will not necessarily know that this is the component installed but it can see the increase in air and will adjust ignition timing and fuel flow accordingly, yielding your power increase. For the most part though, adding performance parts such as cams, air intake manifolds, headers etc. will not yield a very large power gain or at least not nearly as much as they could. Essentially when you add parts, you’re going to want to tune or reconfigure the computers data sets (tables/maps) to your specific configuration allowing for the most potential to be achieved. To do this you will need to do one of the following:
-“Reflash” your current factory computer: This will reconfigure your data sets on your computer to pre-tested dyno proven data sets for your specific engine and part/component configuration. This can be done on OBDII vehicles (1996 and newer) through the OBDII port with an aftermarket “flashing” device.
-“Chip” your factory computer: This means removing the computer from the car, and installing a chip “socket” and re-flashable or re-programmable “chip” on your circuit board in place of your factory “chip”. This removable chip can then be connected to a desktop or laptop pc and re-flashed or edited with pre-tested dyno proven data sets for your specific engine and part/component configuration.
-Run a “piggy-back” system: This is a piece of aftermarket hardware that is designed to run along with your factory computer. A piggy back system with either edit sensor data before it reaches the factory computer or will take over certain functions in place of the factory computer.
-Run a “stand-alone” engine management system: A stand –alone system will be an entire new aftermarket engine control computer that is fully programmable via a laptop pc. This is the most expensive option but is also the most effective option allowing you full control over the entire operation of your engine. This means that you can edit and run dyno tests, then re-edit to achieve the most power as well as dial in your desired engine performance characteristics.
-Head Gaskets and Headstuds/Bolts
An aftermarket headgasket is not necessarily required but may be desirable due to the availibilty in the aftermarket for a selection of headgaskets in different thicknesses. This allows for a change in compression ratio, though slight. The main advantage with an aftermarket headgasket is they are typically designed to withstand higher stresses. They are fairly inexpensive and make for a better piece of mind in your build. Headstuds or headbolts are the hardware that clamp the cylinder head to the engine block. These are crucial components, higher rpms and cylinder pressures will tend to stretch factory bolts/studs over time and cause a failure of the headgasket, like an aftermarket headgasket, aftermarket head studs/bolts make for a good upgrade on your build.
-Swapping OEM Honda/Acura Components
There are many components that can be used with different motors. Some cylinder heads can fit on different blocks (adding a vtec head to a non-vtec block) Cams can be swapped from motor to motor. What parts work together is actually fairly well known on this site, do some searching.
Last edited by Accordian47; 03-01-2017 at 10:15 PM.
The following users liked this post:
02-24-2017, 11:44 AM
#2
re: Honda All-Motor - Natural Aspiration Basics & Overview
Cool.
You're probably too young to remember, but TeamIntegra always had a WEALTH of knowledge. Michael Delaney was one of those "forgot more about Hondas than you'll ever know" type of guys. He still has a bunch of tech articles up, it would be a great idea for someone to copy a lot of this info before its lost forever. Maybe you can incorporate some of it into your post.
VTEC Cams Specs Comparison for Bseries Engines - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Basic Camshaft Calculations - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Individual Throttle Body Dimensions - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Static CR & Intake Cam Duration Relationship - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Intake Manifold Tech: Runner Size Calculations - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Compression Ratio Explained (Static & Dynamic) - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Piston Tech - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Also, when you look through there, you'll realize why some of us old-timers have the attitudes we do. This **** is exhausting.
You're probably too young to remember, but TeamIntegra always had a WEALTH of knowledge. Michael Delaney was one of those "forgot more about Hondas than you'll ever know" type of guys. He still has a bunch of tech articles up, it would be a great idea for someone to copy a lot of this info before its lost forever. Maybe you can incorporate some of it into your post.
VTEC Cams Specs Comparison for Bseries Engines - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Basic Camshaft Calculations - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Individual Throttle Body Dimensions - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Static CR & Intake Cam Duration Relationship - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Intake Manifold Tech: Runner Size Calculations - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Compression Ratio Explained (Static & Dynamic) - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Piston Tech - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra
Also, when you look through there, you'll realize why some of us old-timers have the attitudes we do. This **** is exhausting.
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