timbo74

I have a jdm f20b coming today, the motor comes with 5 speed trans, with lsd, and ecu, and harness.
Will this ecu work in my lude, with a conversion hrness?
I know i have to use alot of parts off the h22 to make it work, like the intake, fuel rail, injectors, power steering, crank pulley, oil pump, and probably a few more things i cant think of right now.
I am of couse not leaving things completely stock.

I am doing the following upgrades.
Skunk2 pro 1 cam
Manely pro valve springs, titanium retainers, and valve locks
Vms racing ajustable cam gears
Skunk 2 billet cam seals
Skunk 2 pro spring bases
Oem oil pump with ballance shaft delete
Srs T-304 4-2-1 header
Srs 2.5" catback exaust
Ebay cold air intake
Clutch max 11.70 lbs chromemoly flywheel
Clutch max stage 2 clutch (using oem bearings)

This is what i have planned so far, i dont want to go to too far with it, as this is not a race car, and i dont want reliability to suffer.
Anything i am forgetting, or any other mods i should do?
Do i need a fuel pressure regulator?
Will the stock injectors be sufficient? The injectors have 190k on them, maybe i should change them.

When this is done, yet another automatic prelude...will be automatic no more.

AllMtrRex

If you plan to do all of those "upgrades", especially cams, you will need an OBD2A-OBD1 jumper, OBD1 socketed ecu with Hondata, Neptune or similar. The stock ecu (F20B or H22) will be good for nothing more than an idle at this point. Use the H22 (P13) ecu for Emission/Inspection.

F20B ecu will not work for any on-board diagnostics during the inspection/emssions process. This ecu is OBD2A and so is your existing ecu connections. No jumper needed here. You will need the H22 oil pump and sensor. Buy new here. Do not reuse.

Alternatively and not my preferred method, you could do the CKF bypass trick by Katman.
Edit*****However, this trick supposedly does not work with preludes/accords due to the CKF signal wire actually located in the distributor on the USDM F22/F23/H23/H22 engine unlike civic and integras. Although, the CKP wire/signal is still located at the oil pump area and will need to be relocated when using a JDM engine without the provision on the oil pump. This is only needed for USDM ecu as well.

timbo74

Emissions testing does not happen where i live, so thats a non issue. But the other is an issue. Ok, i thought the f20b was obd1, im probably wrong. Thanks for the info.
Is there a good place to find what i need? Or just google search it?

AllMtrRex

https://www.hamotorsports.com/obd2a-...r-harness.html

https://www.hamotorsports.com/p06-s300-package.html


You'll need this as well:

When using the JDM F20B distributor with your existing engine harness

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...butor-2275163/

timbo74

That hondata package is for a non vtec engine, i want to retain the vtec if all possible.

https://www.hamotorsports.com/s300-ecu-package.html
Would this work?

timbo74

I would also like to know if i wouod benefit from using my h22 distributor, for the external coil?

AllMtrRex

Yes sir. I thought I had originally posted the p28 link although the other ecu can be made vtec for you as well.

No performance gains there. Using external coil distributor requires new OBD2 H22 oil pump as well for the additional CKP sensors. Using internal coil, you don't have to do that.

timbo74

I already have a new h22 oil pump coming, and the ballance shaft delete kit. Will the h22 oil pump work with obd1? And also does the obd1 get rid of the cps?

AllMtrRex

What year model or version of the H22 pump did you order? H22a4 98-01 is what you should've ordered. The oil pump has no relations to the OBD of the engine/chassis


If you want to stay with the F20B OBD1-like (Internal) 8 pin distributor, you will need to move (cut back the wiring and follow it down the loom until you get near distributor and pin these wires following the guide above) the CKP wiring from the current location to new location. (Oil pump housing to Distributor) This is if you want to stay with the F20B 8 pin distributor only!

If you want to keep the H22 external coil 4 pin distributor you must replace the oil pump with H22 98-01, you can keep the wiring exactly like it is, as far crank and cylinder signals go.

You can run OBD2A-OBD1 adpater harness and socketed ecu I mentioned earlier with either of these choices!

AllMtrRex

Just seen this.

Stock fuel pressure regulator is fine.
You will of course need the proper mounts, shifter cables and shifter box
Use the F20B injectors they likely have less miles. They will be fine if you stick to 93 pump.

timbo74

Ok, stock regulator...check. i have the right oil pump coming, it was for a 2000 prelude. F20 fuel injectors check.
Do i have to use the intake, and fuel rail off the h22? I think i read the fuel hookup was on opposite sides of the engine.
I will probably switch the distributor, im not sure yet, if i wanna mod the wiring.

I already have the shifter cables/linkage, the shifter base, manual trans mount, gas, brake, and clutch pedals, billet steel weighted shift ****, and master/slave cylinders, with stainless line in the mail. I need to check to see what else i need, but im getting closer.
Im actually kind of steamed right now, the motor came tonight, and so far ive found 3 broken parts. So far it looks like i need a new plug for the harness that plugs into the distributor, a new thermostat housing, and a new starter.....lets just say it had a rough trip. The metal straps that secured the motor scraped the valve cover up pretty good also. Im also wondering how much aluminum made its way into the head from the broken housing.
Well anyway im gonna try to pull the trans tomorrow, and get it ready for its new flywheel, friday when the flywheel arrives, im gonna install it, and get it on my engine stand...then the fun part of this can begin😁

AllMtrRex

The fuel line connection is on the other side of the rail for the JDM engines. Use your H22 rail with F20B injectors only due to them being in better shape. I recommend aftermarket injectors but it's not needed to get this deal running and driving and can be added down the road, before dyno/street tuning.

The H22 manifold is a dual runner deal with secondary butterflies that open around 4600rpm. Sounds fancy? Well, it's a neat idea to keep low end torque without sacrificing top end too much. However, with the cams and bolt ons, the engine will not care for the secondary butterflies and a traditonal intake manifold with a larger plenum will work better here. The F20b does not have these secondary butterflies and is a better suited for your build IF you had to choose between these two.

Where did you order this engine? Take pictures of what came broken or missing or scratched badly and they will likely replace the part.

timbo74

I bought it from jdm orlando....heres what i found.

timbo74

Right now what im worried about, is possible chunks of aluminum in the head...do you think i should pull the head to make sure? Im really thinking i should. If i dont, it will keep me awake at night..
..OCD!!!

AllMtrRex

Wow. I would give them a call and see what they can do about it. Of course have them send the upper waterneck housing and starter. The distributor wiring is ok, the wiring that is cut is from the old engine harness.

Remove what's left of the waterneck housing and take a look inside. I don't feel like any part of the broken waterneck would make its way in there because of the way it's angled. I would not pull the head here. Just pull the waterneck and look around with bore scope or flashlight.

timbo74

Just to clear the air, that is not the thermostat housing...the thermostat housing is fine, its where the upper radiator hose mates the engine.
I can see into the head, i dont see any dibris, but that means little.

AllMtrRex

I knew that but totally missed it, multitasking at work and trying to stay on top of your questions lol. I edited my post as well

P.S. worst case, you could use your H22 waterneck

I'm thinking the H22 auto starter will not work though. I have no experience with that particular starter but most of the time the auto starters will not work for manual transmission.

timbo74

I think it either got dropped hard on a pallet, or a pallet hit it hard, look at these two pics of the radiator hose.




That my friend is a chunk of wood stabbed right through the hose.

AllMtrRex

Yeah, I wouldn't sweat it unless you plan to have them send you another engine and them pick that one back up. That would be unlikely and if so, you would have to eat shipping again, I would think.

timbo74

I would like a new starter, and a head gasket at the least. I understand stuff happens, but i also believe when i spend the money, i want my package handled with at least a little care.

timbo74

Yeah, the h22 starter wont work. But i am no longer worried about pulling the head, the neck mates up, it was a clean break, it looks like no chunks broke off.

AllMtrRex

Yeah, I would explain you need another starter and be done and continue to push toward your goal of auto H22 to manual F20B.

timbo74

Ive been working on it for a few hours, got a little done... just have remove one bolt, and the trans should pop off, waiting for an extra hand tomorrow, and im gonna take it off, then friday i should be able to install the new flywheel, and get her on the engine stand.