EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
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EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
For those who are interested, here is what my completely stock F20B put out on a Super Autobaccs dyno. I wanted to get a baseline before I added any mods to the engine and tranny. I can now start to modify what I consider to be one of Honda's three best engines.
The only "mods" made to the car was the removal of the resonator box and a Royal Purple 5W-30 oil change 5000 Km ago.
I was expecting to make around 165 HP. The T2T4 tranny is apparently a very efficient version for the H/F Series . My goal of 220 will be easier to achieve than previously thought. To say that I am PLEASANTLY pleased would be an understatement!!!
***************STAY TUNED!!!!! MUCH MUCH MORE TO COME*************
1998 Accord SiR-T***85K Km***16X7 Gram Lights 57S wheels***4th gear pull***
185 PS
146.83 TQ (20.3KgM)
Dyno Master AWD Dyno
Temp was 65 degrees
---For some reason the dyno will not load--- SORRY
The only "mods" made to the car was the removal of the resonator box and a Royal Purple 5W-30 oil change 5000 Km ago.
I was expecting to make around 165 HP. The T2T4 tranny is apparently a very efficient version for the H/F Series . My goal of 220 will be easier to achieve than previously thought. To say that I am PLEASANTLY pleased would be an understatement!!!
***************STAY TUNED!!!!! MUCH MUCH MORE TO COME*************
1998 Accord SiR-T***85K Km***16X7 Gram Lights 57S wheels***4th gear pull***
185 PS
146.83 TQ (20.3KgM)
Dyno Master AWD Dyno
Temp was 65 degrees
---For some reason the dyno will not load--- SORRY
Last edited by EG6 Master; 11-09-2010 at 01:12 AM. Reason: K
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
I will scan the dyno at work and try to load it from there.
*****------EDIT------*****
Here it is..... And the resonator box that was removed.
Red is wheel power (Very Linear)
Top Blue is torque (Very Flat)
Green is crank power (Estimated*** F20Bs are obviously under rated)
*****------EDIT------*****
Here it is..... And the resonator box that was removed.
Red is wheel power (Very Linear)
Top Blue is torque (Very Flat)
Green is crank power (Estimated*** F20Bs are obviously under rated)
Last edited by EG6 Master; 11-09-2010 at 01:12 AM. Reason: K
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
Very nice. Mine dynoed about the same. 184.6 and 149. And all stock minus the small *** EF intake I was using. We were looking at the chart and there was so much restriction. Engine was demanding more air but I couldn't give it more because of the small *** intake. Good luck on your build.
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
Thats the same numbers booth my stock f20bs put thats a very nice motor the type s cams coming in them stock realy help them out.
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
Very nice. Mine dynoed about the same. 184.6 and 149. And all stock minus the small *** EF intake I was using. We were looking at the chart and there was so much restriction. Engine was demanding more air but I couldn't give it more because of the small *** intake. Good luck on your build.
Didnt know stock was 66mm. I will be upgrading to a Skunk2 K Series intake manifold and a 74mm inlet throttle body that venturies down to a 69mm throttle plate.
Yes PS is HP. Normally PS is 3-5 higher.
Last edited by EG6 Master; 11-09-2010 at 02:26 AM. Reason: K
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
a stock f20b put down 186whp and 146wtq?
thats roughly a 9% drivetrain loss....and you somehow gained a ft/lb of torque...hmmmmm
thats roughly a 9% drivetrain loss....and you somehow gained a ft/lb of torque...hmmmmm
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
Two others on this thread (that live in the U.S.) have said that their completely stock F20Bs (thats four in total) dynoed the same numbers. Thats pretty consistant, I'd say. It is what it is I guess....
My contention is that the F20B is slightly under rated. Certainly, proof of this is particularly evident in the torque numbers. SiR-T engines are of course rated to produce 145 ft/lb at the flywheel. To produce 145+ on the rollers in stock form on four different engines is a definite indication of said under rating.
My contention is that the F20B is slightly under rated. Certainly, proof of this is particularly evident in the torque numbers. SiR-T engines are of course rated to produce 145 ft/lb at the flywheel. To produce 145+ on the rollers in stock form on four different engines is a definite indication of said under rating.
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
H2B = Win
Interesting to see how far youll push the somewhat stock limits of the motor
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
I continue to worship the B16A/B.... I have never cared for the H22A at all and still dont. However, it does serve its purpose well as an alternative to the K swap and for purely drag strip cars. Now I own two of my three (B16, F20B and F20C) favorite Honda engines and two of their three (EG6, CF4 and AP2) best cars.
Unlike other Honda engines, the F20B is actually based on a race unit. It is a detuned version of the 2.0 liter engine used in the 1996 and 1997 JTCC championship winning Mugen Castrol Accord.
That unit put out 315 PS.
So.... the limits of this engine even in stock form are enormous and I intend to exploit them to the greatest extent.
Last edited by EG6 Master; 11-07-2010 at 11:34 PM. Reason: K
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
The H22 is a good alternative to the much more expensive K Swap.
Because the H22 in standard form is larger than anything in the B Series family and can be mounted to an existing B Series tranny it is ideal for drag racing in a EG, EF, EK or DC chassis. Resleeving alone to 90mm will net you 2.308 liters. Stock the H22 heads flow very well in the 275-280 CFM range. The H22 weighs slightly more and sits forward of the front wheels which lends itself to be better suited for a front wheel drive drag car. Also, you only need 5 speeds to drag race not six like some of the K Series come with.
The K Series because of its placement (the opposite side of the chassis to the driver and close the the firewall) within the engine bay, I-VTEC and close ratio six speed is much better suited for Time Attack and road course racing.
The K24 is beast of an engine for any Civic, Integra or 2002 and older Accord. So, a swap into one of these chassis makes for a killer combo either way. I would never stroke a K24, so resleeving and boring to 90mm will net you 2.519 liters. In a 2000 pound car that equals PURE EVIL!!
Last edited by EG6 Master; 11-09-2010 at 03:01 AM.
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re: EG6 Master's STOCK F20B DYNO - The journey begins
My torque was actually at 149. And whp at 184.6. And mr. Bisi himself tuned it. I was actually surprised too being that it was still a stock motor. Heck, my old setup which was a sohc f22 non vtec with boltons Bisimoto level 2 camshaft and Bisimoto header with a tune made 165whp and 149 tq. And I was also surprised. (sorry, off topic)